jaswood

Within 100-200 miles of driving the engine/transaxle ECU control system will have restored the variable "learned" operational parameters that you reset to factory default via disconnecting the battery. In about '08 Toyota/Lexus developed a technique, firmware revision, that attempted to alleviate many, most(?), instances of the 1-2 second re-acceleration downshift delay/hesitation. That may have been the TSB. The revision "watched" the driver's action with/on the gas pedal. A "fast" gas pedal lift, relatively, would result in the transaxle remaining in a lower gear on the assumption that the fast or rapid lift meant the driver's current intent was to slow using engine compression braking. A relatively slow lift of the gas pedal and the transaxle would upshift accordingly, assumption being that the driver now wished to enter cruise mode.

The RX300 series is highly subject to "premature" transaxle failures, especially the '99 and somewhat less so the '00. As of the RX330 DBW was adopted to "protect the drive train" and thus the issue of premature transaxle failures was abated. But that resulted in somewhat "weird" transaxle operation, occassional 1-2 second engine hesitation/delay upon re-acceleration events, that continues to this very day. Those 1-2 second engine response delays (now prevalent throughout the automotive market) to gas pedal depression can easily prove to be HAZARDOUS. If you "need" AWD functionality then ignore the pre-2010 RX versions. The earlier RX series used the relatively simple Trac braking technique to aportion engine torque to the rear diff'l but only once wheelspin/slip was detected at the primary, FRONT, driven wheels. The early MDX used the VTM-4 "awd" system and was therefore also subject to premature transaxle failures. A switch was made to the SH-AWD system, a STELLER approach to adapting base FWD vehicles to "AWD" in my opinion. But the owners of these newer MDX's are also reporting premature transaxle failures but seemingly in not as large numbers. Were I you I would look more closely at the new lighter weigh (no transfer case) Cayenne, "base", V6, Cayenne.

Technically correct approach. We're lucky though - no need to do any modifications, for about $10-15 we (Lexus/Toyota owners) can get already adapted plug'n'play replacement flasher relay. Just search on ebay for "Toyota LED flasher" - there will be a bunch of offerings, with part number "81980-50030". It is a direct repalcement - remove the OEM one, plug in the replacement. A note: it does flash at normal rate for any combination of LEDs / filament bulbs, including all filaments and all LEDs; and a side effect of it - there will be no "hyperflashing" notification even if one of the bulbs will go out. Because of it I'd recommend to use it for full LED conversion cases only - properly designed and installed LED bulbs will last very long time, and besides when LED bulbs die they will not necessarily drop their consumed current to zero, so effective detection of failed LED bulb is difficult if possible at all anyway. My original question still stands - does anyone know how to reach the flasher relay in 2008 RX350? Many thanks! Al. "...difficult if possible at all..." Just measure the voltage drop across the current sensing link with 2 incandescent turn signal filaments as load. Now adjust the resistance of the link to get the same voltage drop with the 2 LED turn signal bulbs you plan to use as load. You will then get hyperflash if a single LED bulb , "multiple" LED bulb, current flow drops by more than 1/2.

Incandescent turn signal bulb filaments are typically rated at 15-18 watts, put that wattage resistance inside a LED bulb assembly/case and the LEDs might last for.....2 hours (of use). Besides which incandescent bulbs have an initial "power on" resistance much lower than the rated wattage would indicate. Some "bulb out" detection circuits relay on that lower initial resistance.

Sorry to say, but these days we may soon require a law limiting the brightness of the LED used for the OEM market. Maybe even a way to automatically dim those BRIGHT LED brakes lights once the vehicle actually comes to a stop. One of the ways to have BRIGHT 12 volts bulbs is to use an external resistor/resistance, NOT inside the bulb case/housing itself. My '01 C4 has been running with that arrangement since new with no bulb failures. The easiest way to adapt the turn signal relay is to disassemble it and change the current flow sensing resistor. Most have/use a simple nichrome resistance link and you can replace the link with a deterministically selected resistor. Use a high enough wattage and an incandescent bulbs can be used as a temporary substitute for a failed LED bulb.

Vapor lock, air bubble in the system somewhere, remove the radiator cap, heater on MAX HOT, and let the engine idle until the bubbling stops.

"..happens sporadically.." "..pulling into traffic or merging lanes.." Sounds seriously like the "SOP" 1-2 second downshift "re-acceleration" delay. DBW is used to delay the onset of rising engine torque in response to newly depressed gas pedal.

The design of the early LS400 headlight assembly, reflector, shading, etc, is such that you can have reasonable low beam coverage and the high beams illuminate the sky/moon, or you can have good high beam coverage and the low beam become fog lights. I haven't tried this but I have long suspected that the headlamp assemply from a '95 Ls400 can be swapped in. I have converted at least 3 early LS400's to bi-xenon, HID hi/lo, bulb substitution, and that does help, but not nearly as much as resulted from converting a '95 LS. A friend installed a set of driving light, behind a cutout of the lower valance, and wired them to operate instead of the low beams. While he was satisfied with the results I suspect lots of oncoming driver's were displeased. Ebay has crystal clear headlamp assemblies by I have no idea of the beam pattern corection or not.

The exterior lights, parking, etc, must be on to enable the glove box light....STUPID, yes.

A. The early LS400 models are subject to developing PS leaks. B. The early LS400 models are subject to developing alternator failures. C. The PS failure results in alternator failures. D. The only correlation between the two is due to ignoring the PS leak until the alternator fails of its own accord. How many of the above are true..??

Provided you don't need a serious level of cooling you should disable the A/C (compressor) functionality to prevent the engine heat from being used to moderate the level of cooling. That way you will get the full benefit of the engine water jacket heat not being "watered down" via refrigeration. The need for the engine to be cycled on should be significantly reduced. By the way, that's not a bad overall, disabling the A/C except for the need for actual cooling will extend your hybrid's FE. Personally, when I have the need for A/C cooling I always set it to MAX cooling(***) and then use, lower, the blower speed to moderate the cabin atmosphere's comfort level. In MAX cooling the reheat/remix/blend door remains fully closed to the use of engine heat to moderate the cooling level. Then the A/C compressor runs, needs to run, a lot less often, and the ICE doesn't need to keep the water jacket "warm".

Here in the Seattle area, eastside, the need for "winter" specialty tires is rare enough that I run my nice and quiet "SUMMER ONLY" Bridgestone Turanza tires all year around. For those rare times of need I always keep at least one set of tire chains on board year around for the rear, and a second set during the wintertime to add to the front if things really get dicy (never have). I find that the clear majority of the time, even in snow, snowy conditions, my summer tires have just enough extra tread surface contact area vs winter tires that my RX outperforms most vehicles with winter specialty tires. They stuggle, I more forward.

VSC/TRAC Beep is accompanied by dash indication but the dash indicator is so brief that when you hear the beep by the time you look down at the dash the indicator is already off. Idiot design. So if you're driving somewhat aggressively it may be the VSC/Trac beep you're hearing. It doesn't take very much yaw(VSC) or wheel "slip"(Trac) to trigger the VSC/trac functionality and it took me (also an '01 wannabe "AWD", 90K) a long while to sort out the unknown "beep" since my butt sensor isn't well enough tuned to detect the brief yawing or wheelslip/spin. There is some history of the yaw sensor coming loose from the floor mount and/or even more likely the steering wheel rotational position sensor being out of calibration. Any steering work, alignment, done recently...?

I'd stop going to that dealer........ Or ANY (St,d)ealer, except for initial purchase.

The only difference between California and "non-" is that the "non" will not pass visual inspection.

Wipe the wet ones down and see how long it takes to see wetness repeat. Lexus/Toyota has become somewhat famous for the poor design of the front strut top mount rubber cushion. After installing 4 new shocks (Sears) that didn't help I wrapped rubber washer hose around the top spring coils to quieten mine. Same problem, "thunk" noise when driving slowly over speed bumps, etc.

Except for knock/ping due to engine luuging most modern day EFI engines use A/F mixture adjustment, enrichment (not counter-productive timing adjustment) to alleviate knock/ping/detonation. Your's sound suspicously like engine lugging and the engine controling ECU should downshift to alleviate that. Many newer cars now have random "re-acceleration" downshift delay of 1-2 seconds, is that your case?

With the advent of wideband knock/ping sensors and EFI the engine ECU is able to simply enrich the mixture slightly to alleviate any issue of knock/ping. Does your Lexus have the new sensors or the old "resonant" sensors...? My 2001 Porshe C4 does. actually, I don't know what kind of sensor I have so I will ask the mechanic next time I see him.....on another side, I changed the coolant earlier and had the mechanic check the struts and shocks and advised to replace the dreaded shocks. The OEM is ridiculously pricy so I opted for the conversion. Its coming in 2 days so we'll see what happens...stay tuned. Are we by chance talking about replacing air suspension ("OEM is ridiculously pricy") with standard shocks...? A fool and his money are soon parted. It is not altogether unusual for the Lexus air "shocks" to leak down somewhat after a few days of non-use, even "slightly" overnight is okay provided the pump can take up the slack within a few minutes. My '91's rear end will sag a bit with a weeks non-use but pumps right back up again before I even get out of the driveway. By the way, the air suspension ride and comfort level is really stellar in comparison to standard shocks.

Based on the information in the 2010 RX owners manual, pressing these switches should not have caused any problems no matter what speed you were going. And nobody is going to collect information so that they "know how often you abuse the system". I can't tell you how to keep from inadvertently pressing console mounted switches other than maybe to not flail about if you drop something. The Ford Escape is using this same "wannabe" AWD system, and has for many years past. Ford has a thermistor in the rear clutch/diff'l assembly used to warn the driver of too much use, or incorrect use, of the AWD system. If the driver ignores the overheat warning indication then the system is simply disabled. Toyota uses this system on many models, initially on the Venza, and only the RX allows for driver manual engagement. I have very little doubt that if the "AWD" function were left engaged for an extended period on a highly tractive surface either the PTO or the clutch/diff'l itself would be subject to overheating, perhaps seriously so. Given the failure history on the Escape, mostly PTO overheating, I wouldn't be at all surprised if this indication is at least intended as an opportunity for the dealer to caution about the proper use of this function. Anyway, what was the indication that only the dealer could reset??

I think, thought, that the VSC/TRAC switch had only an "off" functionality and the system was restored to default "on" with the next ignition cycle. The "AWD" switch, on the other hand, is a positive engagement switch (below ~20MPH) and should you accidentally turn it on while driving on a highly tractive surface I could see that might result in a fault code. That instance is so serious in nature that the factory might wish to know how often you abuse the system in that manner therefore only the dealer would be able to reset it.

With the advent of wideband knock/ping sensors and EFI the engine ECU is able to simply enrich the mixture slightly to alleviate any issue of knock/ping. Does your Lexus have the new sensors or the old "resonant" sensors...? My 2001 Porshe C4 does.

Both my '95 LS400 and my '01 "AWD" RX300 run on Summer only Bridgestone Turanzas all year 'round. Quiet and comfortable ride. Rear tire chains for the RX on rare, "as needed" basis.

Costco....same as Bosch Icons.