jaswood

Wrapping the connector may allow moisture to be trapped inside. I would use a bit of dielectric grease inside the female connector to keep out moisture. This is what Honda does with their headlight connectors. The top of the plastic "wrap" is tightly closed, tie-wrapped, around the wire harness to help prevent mositure entering the connector(s), while the bottom, below the connectors, is left "open". Kilt "like".

That's a "practical" impossibility. Better overall to buy a portable GPS/Nav, Garmin, an Iphone (or the "like"). You could trade up to a 2010 or later model and get a more functional front biased "AWD" but even at that I wouldn't recommend a "captive" GPS.

Torque steer, SOP for FWD and/or front biased "AWD". Even worse when turning into the short halfshaft side and under hard acceleration. Some of the newer vehicles with EPS, Electric Power Steering, negate this effect electronically...."software"....

You have shorted commutator segment within the starter motor. The starter motor comes to a stop on the shorted segment and the next time you go to start all you get is that single "click". Oftentimes multiple start attempts will move the starter motor off the shorted segment and now you "go"... The ignition system starting circuit is designed so that many electrically powered items are de-powered in "start" mode.

Read, and fully comprehend, the theory of operation of any of the newer front biased "awd" systems that use the electromagnetically actuated coupling wet clutch mounted in the front of the rear differential, and then read up on the operation of the same clutch system in a "base" RWD vehicle such as the Porsche Cayenne. With knowledge comes understanding. I have now driven a FWD 2001 RX300 (pretend "AWD") since new, always with summer only tires but with tirechains ALWAYS on board and I do not hesitate employing their use. So, yes, if you are fully aware of the short-comings of such then a FWD vehicle might be driven safety on a snow packed or icy roadbed. But what about newly "minted" drivers...?

I recently discovered that the entire area behind the P/S kick panel, SIDE kick panel was wet, VERY wet, multiple electrical connections, connectors, in that area resulting in numerous OBDII diagnostic monitor faults. Ended up being a problem with the windshield rubber sealing at the P/S right bottom corner. Fixed the windshield seal problem but also wrapped those connectors with plastic just to be extra safe. In the past I have had instances wherein long term exposure to moisture compromised electrical connections within a connector. Those "compromised" connections, especially connections carrying a fairly heavy electrical current load (12 volt source and grnd return most commonly) overheat, melting the connector plastic and now you might have 2 adjacent connections touching. "..fuse spring feet melting.." It is not altogether uncommon for these fuse holder spring (feet) to lose their "springiness" over a long period of time. Then you have less than a solid connection to the fuse ends. This is often the result of the circuit current flow be very near the maximum for a long period of operation, or in some cases the average current flow being well with tolerance but with surge spikes that are 10 times greater than the fuse rating. The fuel pump fuse/holder in the 77-88 Porsche 911 has become quite famous for this.

Weedeater nylon "string" used to clear the drains..??

"..I contacted Lexus.." And I would place bets that Lexus corporate discovered one of their dealers with their hands in the cookie jar. I'd also bet that it is the dealer footing the repair bill in order to stay in good graces with corporate. Probably worth a drive all the way back to Portland to discover that your control arms are in perfectly good condition. $400 for just one new tire?

How old, miles, are the Michelins..? Michelin might be will to replace the under the manufacturing defect, belt slipped, clause.

The ES, and Camry, series is strickly, ONLY FWD, patently UNSAFE FWD. These should NEVER be driven on wintertime roadbed conditions, or when the potential for those conditions are probable.

The BAD news. For almost 20 years now manufacturers of FWD vehicles, PATENTLY UNSAFE FWD vehicles, have been trying to come up with a method to make them more safe. The most common approach to date has been to come up with some sort, design, to add torque apportioning to the rear driveline. Here we are 20 years "downstream" and all we have for all that effort is a few reasonably safe front biased "AWD" systems. But with every one of those(***) subject, sometimes HIGHLY subject, to premature driveline component failures due to the extra stress/HEAT level arising from the PRE_EMPTIVE locking, or partial locking, of the rear drive capability. Pre-emptive engagement of the rear drive capability even on the most highly tractive roadbed surface present....nothing short of IDIOCY. *** Inclusive of the SH-AWD system, the 2012 MDX is currently under recall, REFLASH required, due to this very problem.

Sure, but first be sure you have HEAVILY insured yourself and your wife, your kids will love you for it once you're gone. Insofar as modern day "awd" systems are concerned, most especially vehicles with sideways mounted engines that are ALWAYS predominantly FWD, there be BEARS, sometimes GRIZZLY bears, in them thar woods. The best of the BEST in that class, base FWD vehicles, would be the Honda/Acura SH-AWD system. So I would advise that before jumping from the pot directy into the fire you should closely read, understand/comprehend, the theory of operation of the SH-AWD system. A good/close read of the Subaru "symmetrical" AWD system would also be a good read. There have been a few times here on the Seattle eastside this winter wherein I did not feel safe transporting my wife to her work absent fitting tire chains. ???? so, the question becomes, tirechains ONLY on the front of our ONE-WHEEL DRIVE 2001 RX300 "AWD", or on the rear of our '92 LS400. I'm betting you can figure out which I made, ceratinly so post reading the material I have pointed out. You have to get all the way to the 2010, or after, RX350 "awd" before you find a reasonably functional "AWD" system, and even that one does not stand comparison with the SH-AWD system. The newer Porsche Cayenne and it's VW "brother" would be my choice were I in the SUV market currently.

RX330 series was optionally available with "AWD", in quotes since most of the time it was ONLY FWD. From '01 onwards until the 2010 model all RXes were ONE-WHEEL drive, three simple open diff'ls, front, center, rear. TC braking, after the fact braking (you have now LOST traction), was used to ENFORCE driving of the rear wheels. Few drivers, regretably, could be relied upon to quickly react and "feather" the throttle to some reasonable level was TC braking began. So along with TC braking activation you also get FULL engine DETHROTTLING. Early RXes, '99 & '00 RX300's, had a truly functional "awd" system but by '01 it was abandoned as a result of an unforeseen design flaw incorporated within the transaxle of the then new '99 RX300. Actual "awd" functionality of those early models, coupled with the transaxle design flaw, resulted in too much extra stress, heating, of the driveline components. Transaxle failures become the rule of the day, especially for the '99 MY.

On my '92 LS400 I went to 16X4 BBS-RS wheels and +1 tires, correct circumference but wider footprint. Quietest and most comfortably riding tires I could find were BridgeStone Tyranzas, summer use only.

Many years ago(***) I had a flywheel/flexplate crack al the way around through the center of the crankshaft mounting bolt holes. The crack was jagged enough that it would still "convey" full engine torque and under drive torque there was no "clunking" noise. *** Kansas City, June, 1963, brand new heritage burgandy '63 T-bird, returning to MT from Honeymoon. Ford repaired it under warranty, they would actually do that back in those days.

LS400's have a steering shock absorber/stabilizer. Defective or piston rod rusted...?? When I went to 16X8 +1" wheels tires, wider tires = more grip, I removed mine.

Call me a "Doubting Thomas, but... A defective coil, defective to the level you seem to have encountered, but no CEL..??!! Doesn't seem probable. What else do the mechanic do that he "over-looked" telling you.

The problem seems to be related to the VSC/TC system ONLY, no CEL. Since VSC/TC isn't part of the emissions control system a parts store code reader will be of no help. There is a procedure that will allow you to "read" the codes for the non-emissions "stuff", climate control, etc. You jumper a set of pins on the diagmostic connector, turn the ignition on, and then count the number of blinks, blick series, of the appropriate indicator light.

Change/flush coolant recently or had to add a lot...? Air bubble, vapor lock, in the hoses to/from the heate rcore might be the problem.

Redmond/Bellevue/Woodinville. Easy enough to troubleshoot with a DMM if you're nearby. Have the shop/repair manuals in hand.

The primary purpose of the heat shields is to prevent a grass fire. I think I have read that someone used 2 LARGE hose clamps to put the heat shield back on.

Now just stay away from that PB that manually engages the rear driveline as much, as often, as possible.

Not the blend door this time around, but the system outlet airflow direction servomotor. There is also a fairly complex cam/bellcrank assembly that may be broken. If you disconnect (10-15 minutes) and reconnect the battery the climate control system will then go through a complete system recalibration which might solve the issue. Worth a try anyway.

Power steering pump drive belt.

When the rear diff'l MAIN cushion/mount had failed I was absolutely certain the noise I was hearing was just underneath my feet. But the way you described the sound "rock in a tin can" makes me think you have a chunk of catalyst structure, while not (yet) large enough to block exhaust flow, rattling around within the converter. Also, that would put the origin of the sound right at your feet. Have you checked for a loose r CRACKED converter heat shield? Harmonic vibrations are a strange thing, a loose heat shield might very well vibrate only at certain engine RPM and driveline "stress" points. Wouldn't be the first time. You s