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About B-Lawrence

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    Arizona (AZ)
  1. I thought I had the same problem on my 2001 LS430 UL, but it turned out to be an auto lock accuator motor that was on its death bed. Any sounds you get by activating the remote is good news. Typically the door computer will only beep if your command has been satisfied, thus silence with a bad lock actuator motor. Step back with the new battery an try different things and listen. I took apart the door latch assembly and replaced the tiny (slot car style) motor and then everything was back to normal. So in the normal sequence of failures, first it's the remote battery, next the actuator motor. Please check out the fuses too.
  2. Thank you for the detailed explanation. I had heard about leaky intake and exhaust manifolds causing this problem (for 2 different reasons), but mostly inspired when exploring oxygen sensors for a work project. I guess an oxygen sensor puts out more voltage as it senses more oxygen. Therefore it's safe to assume at the end of its life when combustion remnants coat the sensor it will be sluggish in response as well as sending a lower than normal voltage to the ECU. A low output signal will tell the ECU the mixture is too rich causing the intake mixture to have more air added, thus detonation. I was aware that engines of low HP:in3 ratios are ultra sensitive to detonation and should be addressed quickly before damage occurs. I think I'd like to get in touch with the car since it's been so good to me. These cars are electronic marvels, they're even supposed to detect a knock and report it? With no CEL it may be best to get busy with understanding the situation. Question; what if the knock sensors ARE working correctly and are retarding my timing to offset the detonation, would I still get a CEL in this situation? Thanks for the diagram and background. Much appreciated.
  3. LS 430 2001 has 145k miles daily driver and has started to ping (detonation) in the last 2-3 months. It usually happens at 1000-2000RPMs when accelerating. Car is serviced at dealer, but before I donate my $1000 this time I'd like to know what the issue is. I use the same fuel stations. It sounds to me that possibly the ECU is mixing too lean in this RPM range; acceleration perturbates the situation by adding more air, making the mixture more lean. Oxygen sensor? There are no EWLs and the engine runs smoothly and gets a city/hwy of 22.5.
  4. Did you ever find an instruction set for removing the radio head on your 2005 LS430. brad_lawrence@cox.net
  5. It should be noted that release of the filter's side clips is done with your hand and fingers through the opening vacated by the drawer, and the filter drops to the floor. Then one can grab it from under the seat and pull it out. The next time you remove the filter, you'll be able to do it with your eyes closed while standing on the ground outside the car. I found that blowing the filter off with an air can removes about 95% of the dirt and lint. A thorough wash job with hot water and setting it out to dry will render the best cleaning. A combo is the best. Now my bottom and back are cool again in the Arizona heat. Brad 2001 LS-430
  6. Subwoofer Fix Feedback from a 2001 LS-430 subwoofer fix. Firstly, thank you very much for your basic advice. The French Philosopher Voltare wrote, "Common sense is not so common." I guess you're an exception to the rule. I started with a glue gun around the cone - nothing. Then I went around the very outside of speaker where the poly vinyl is attached to the metal frame - bingo! This was so easy I feel guilty. Everything is back to normal. I really couldn't get close enough to see cracks due to the speaker being so tight in the back window unless one uses special mirrors - so just go for it with a glue gun. Use the tiniest one you can find at a hobby store; this makes it easy to access. Plus, the glue sets in 2 minutes so you can test the speaker. Silicone is okay, but you need to let it set for hours and it outgasses, stinking up the car's interior. Stay with the glue gun. Thanks again, Bob. Brad Scottsdale, AZ
  7. Thanks for the two replies. Here's another bit of data to augment my first post. - The car was off for two hours today then we took off down the freeway. The engine temp gauge was on the second thin white line from the bottom (4 total). I left the a/c off and the engine temp was stable. Then when I turned on the a/c (which got ice cold) the engine temp increased to the top thin white line in less than one minute (very unusual). At this point the a/c kicked off probably due to over heating protection. I have a new radiator and it's full of the correct fluids. Now, here's the kicker. I turn the a/c to AUTO and raise the temp to HOT, the engine temp goes back down to half way in 2 minutes - then if I reduce the temp setting to 75, the a/c goes ice cold until the engine temp goes high again. This cycle repeats and is predictable.
  8. 2001 LS430, Phoenix AZ, 93,000 miles, 1 year since new condenser and charging system (due to damage). The a/c blows ice cold after first start and while driving to work (35 miles). But on occasion if I stop and start a few times in a short period the system blows outside air (moist and hot). If I give the car a rest for an hour or two, the system blows ice cold again. It's acting like some sort of air flow valve is not working right OR it's getting an incorrect signal from the micro processor. Thoughts? Is the car approaching menopause?