jaswood

"..sometimes nothing happens..." That's because the DBW system is "protecting the drive train". You are undoubtedly experiencing the 1-2 second re-acceleration downshift delay, SOP.

Either one "AWD"..?? In your area I would think AWD would be the best choice.

Both are DBW which allows "metering", detuning, of the engine HP during low speed acceleration, HARD/heavy acceleration. Detuning, typically only 1st and 2nd gears, the period of time/use wherein loss of traction is most likely to occur thereby raising the potential for loss of direction control. FWD Cadillac's with the high HP/torque NorthStar engine used this technique for many years before switching back to RWD. The primary difference might be due to the 2010 switch to a much more functional "AWD" system. I know this was done for the Venza and the 2010 RX350 but I'm not sure of the HL. Being able to proactively couple in the rear drive during low speed acceleration would clearly allow for less detuning of the engine during those periods. There is an indication that at least some of todays FWD/"AWD" vehicles that use the Trac braking to apportion torque to the rear detune the engine to an even greater level if/when the OAT is low enough, sub-freezing, to raise the potential for low traction, slippery, conditions. Ford even has a US patent which addresses this technique.

Over the past 10 years or so I have had at least two instances of O2 failure indications. After the first one I purchased a new O2 sensor but before I got around to installing it the indication stopped. But when the second one happened I was able to correlate a cicumstance that had just previously occurred. My Trac system had activated almost repetively/continuously over a short period of time. Since my RX is not DBW the Trac system uses EFI to dethrottle the engine, starve the engine of fuel. The throttle valve was open to inlet oxygen flow but no fuel to burn so PURE oxygen (20%) reached the HOT sensors. With a crack in the exhaust pipe nearby the sensors the oxygen rich atmosphere could easily contaminate/"spoil" the HOT sensors when the engine is first stopped. In my instance the "spoiling" seems to clear with a 100 miles or so of driving.

Hi, I own 2001 LS430 and have the same issue - exact the same error (my colleague also has in LS430 error P0325). I replaced knock sensor to used one and error comes again, my colleague replaced both knock sensors (also used) and P0325 appears again. Job is not so easy - you have to remove intake (see attached doc m_10_0010.pdf). Also it is not easy to switch RH with LH sensors - you have to remove intake two times (some gaskets are non-reusable - costs goes high. During weekend I'm going to connect oscilloscope and check sensor readings and cabling - maybe something is on wires? In service manual (m_di_0079.pdf) there is method to swap pins in plug and if error will remain on the same bank - problem will be in cable from connector to knock sensor or in a sensor. I can not believe that only knock sensor can throw this code - few people has problem only with the same P0325 (bank 1) no one is talking that bank 2 sensor was wrong. What do you thing ? Do somebody know - maybe knock sensors aren't re-usable ? I use petrol 95 or 98, MAF cleaned, air filter new OEM. In my opinion if something will be wrong with air error will also appear on bank2 not only bank1. Waiting for your answers. Our '95 LS was recently giving a code indicating bank 1 was running too lean. The LS400 factory shop/repair manual suggested the MAF/IAT might be at fault. That was hard for me to believe but cleaning the MAF was a much easier job than anything else I might tackle. Amazingly enough that did clear the problem. And.... For more than a year we have been getting intermittent EGR faults. Cleaned the EGR, replaced misc parts, no help. I could reset the fault but it would come back on within 2-3 weeks. Since I cleaned the MAF no more EGR faults... Only the shadow knows....

'01 "AWD" RX300, ~90,000 miles. Diagnostics indicated both l/r rear speed sensors out plus rear vehicle heigth sensor out. Suspected, inspected, for rear cable broken, kicked up road debris...? Nothing there. Opened passenger side kick panel and discovered.....WATER. Connector set, IM1,IM2, SOAKED. Water source, dripping, seems to be quite high up, seemingly just to the right of the CD player "box". Disassembled inlet cowling but could not replicate problem even with water pouring down the windshield and into the air inlet ducts for A/C intake airflow. Disconnected, cleaned and dried ,(hair dryer,) both IM1,2 connectors and fault indicators extinguished. Anyone experience this...? Ideas for fix?

Back in the days of carburetion running rough would always mean carburetor or ignition problems. Modern ignition system problems rarely result in knock/ping. You most likely have an intermitently STUCK fuel injector, mayb even a failing fuel pump(filter?). But first be sure and clean the MAF/IAT sensors, just on the chance.

No negative results other than the loss of few PEAK HP. Engine/transaxle ECU simply enriches the mixture slightly if low octane results in detonation occuring under load.

Manuals are available on line for a fee.

The knock sensor may only be the messenger...fuel injector not fully opening, etc.

Never..!! RXh uses PSD type CVT, no frictional clutch components, the only heat is from bearing friction and electic motor/generator resistance losses.

Why is the woofer disconnected..? Either connect it back up or use a 4 ohm high wattage resistor, 10W might work, as a load substitute and see if the smell abates. It is removed by the previous owner. Looks like they had some subs in the trunk. There is a pass converter going to the separate sub amp which has the fuse removed until I put some other subs in it. Since the Lexus already has a 5th, low pass, channel, why would a pass converter be used. In any case a "passive" low pass filter, inductors and capacitors only, with no load, ~4 ohm speaker, might "reflect" a serious level of energy back into the solid state audio driver circuits.

If you remove both drain plugs you can drain 5 qts. Watch the ATF condition carefully, every oil change recommended.

Why is the woofer disconnected..? Either connect it back up or use a 4 ohm high wattage resistor, 10W might work, as a load substitute and see if the smell abates.

I wouldn't even try transplanting a complete engine and transaxle from a different year RX, even if I were also moving the engine/transaxle ECU. Onboard networks allows/requires that all components speak the same language, "shake hands".

60K and third set of tires are nearly bald..? Something other than normal tire wear is wrong. Original brake pads..?

Probably yes, mechanically, but.... Firmware wise...probably not.

The lock-out PB stuck in the lock-out position...?

I looked at the 02 RX300 owners manual and saw nothing about it's antenna automagically adjusting based on radio frequency like the antenna in my first Lexus (LS400) did. The automatically adjusting antenna was very noticeable in my old LS when searching through radio frequencies when the engine was not running. If your RX had a similar feature, you likely would have noticed. Ops is an '09. And I agree that the adjustment is less than 10" from full height. Haven't actually watched on my '01 RX but I'm pretty sure I have heard the antenna motor run as I switch from AM to FM. On the other hand many Lexii with upscale autio have "diversity" antennas, distance displaced dual antennas, to prevent "picket-fencing", rapid in and out signal fading, due to the multi-path effects of the FM signal.

I believe I have read somewhere that if you select the AM band the antenna will extend fully, for FM it goes to a "tuned" position as a function of the FM station frequency.

"...no....button down there.." But there may very well be a dealer, or even owner set option to enable the "beep" that got turned off in the process.

"..They shouldn't..." Unless there was unequal tread wear between/amongst the 4 tires they removed, plus there can be NO DOUBT that the circumference of the new tires significantly exceeded that of the old worn out ones. Both or either of those issues can/might have an adverse affect on the VSC/Trac system. And did all 4 of the removed tires have roughly equal inflation levels..? Did Costco try to match the inflation level of new tires with the old ones..? Otherwise the TPMS system would need to be reset or recalibraded.

I would agree that the early Jeeps were good, reliable, wintertime use vehicles, our '92 is still doing stellar work on a cattle and wheat ranch in north central MT. But my recommendations STOP with the acquisition of the Jeep product line by Chryler. IMMHO chrysler sat out right to cheapen the product and thereby reap HUGE profits due to Jeeps past history and reputation. That's why the '92 was the last Jeep we were ever to buy after being a strong fan of the marque for so many years.

My '01 RX300, supposedly AWD (NOT!) now has ~90,000 miles, based on the posts I have read here and there on the internet I expected to see a failure between 70-100000 miles. The 99 models taht failed appear to have done so with 50-70,000 miles. My ATF first appeared dirty and smelled burned at only 40,000 miles, and again close to 80,000 miles. Methinks the base Cayenne is priced pretty close to the equal of the MDX.

Or they simply disconnected the battery fro a few minutes and thereby reset ALL user/owner selected parameters...