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Everything posted by ArmyofOne
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Looking At Purchaing A Craftsman Mech. Toolset
ArmyofOne replied to widowmaker03's topic in 90 - 00 Lexus LS400
when using the breaker bar, you want 3/8" drive or higher. the smal ldrive will snap right off with a breaker bar. if you can get a breaker bar in that size... craftsman and snap on will both replace tools that have sloppy fitment, bad or worn parts (such as ratchets) or busted tools )wrenches with cracks, or stripped ratchets). -
Whoa!! damn, you would think i was in the army or something, i totally missed that. thanks for pointing it out! :)
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Ls400 '99 Brick-road Noise From Wheel
ArmyofOne replied to Lexus Itch's topic in 90 - 00 Lexus LS400
there is a bushing in the firewall where the steering column goes in to it, if its worn out, the column will "bang" on the firewall. not a hard fix. also Check your strut rods and upper ball joints. ill bet one or the other is the culprit. -
no, in these kind of teperatures, it will stick, i know. trust me on this one, it doesnt matter. anyone on here can vouch for the fact that i wax my car more than twice a month, irregardless of weather conditions, and i can say that i bought a cover, for the nights here, and it froze to my paint in one night. and it pulled the paint up, i had to have it touched up. the cover was 89.95. DO NOT PUT A COVER ON A VEHCILE ON COLD WEATHER,. i cant stress that enough. and there is no need to run the a/c. the a/c compressor runs when the defrostters are on, it works to remove condensation from the air so that it can defrost. to wax your car in the cold, pull into a coin op car wash with closing doors amd close the doors alomost all the way. take a blow drie and an extension cord with you, borrow one of their outlets, heat up the area you want to wax slightly, so that its about 65 degrees, and apply some all weather wax, its not the bes stuff inthe world, but it is better than nothing in a salty winter. you can buy these waxes at autozone, they will say on the back of the can, you can use it in temps as low as 35 degrees. if you cant find it, Meguiars paste wax will work too. anyways, heat the paenl up, apply the wax as normal and run the blow dry over it at a diestance of 6-12 inches, taking care not to "bake" the waxinto the paint. then wipe with a microfiber towel. its better than nothing. i do this every other weekend during the winters here. because there is more salt than snow on the roads in the state of NY. everywhere you go, a cloud of white dust follows you.
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Should have went with the Falken Zeix ZE-512. for $260 installed you could have ahd 4 FANTASTIC tires, search "Falken" for my thougths on these tires. or PM me or "LexusFreak"
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Viper, Ultrastart and AstroFlex are the best ones IMO.
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Actually, if you got a 92-94 manifold, it will bolt right up, and the secondaries are vaccum accuated as well. you would also need the 3.0 MAF though. then you may confuse the ECU, but its worth a shot. the only thing the vaccum does on the 250 anyways is stabilize the idle. nothing more. you may end up with an engine that idles at 1K instead of 650 RPMS. no bigge for that kind fo power.
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could be a few things, i would venture to say a fuse. it may be a blown main fuse. you said you checked them all, but look at the main power fuse under the hood, its the main fuse for EVERYTHING on the car. alot of the time, fuses are blown, but they dont look blown. if it comes down to it, replace every fuse in the car. otherwise, your battery is toast. i woudl go buy a new battery anyways just to be sure. Worst case scenario, your computrer is fried. but we wont jump there just yet.
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Solving The Valve Cover Gaskets - Permanently
ArmyofOne replied to Toysrme's topic in 92 - 06 Lexus ES250/300/330
Hmm, lets see, are the valve cover gaskets a problem? with 130K, my 2vz leaked a quart of oil EVERY DAY. at 140K, right before they were fixed, i was filling up the crankcase every 3 days, it got to the point that i didnt even bother changing the oil, just the filter, cause thre oil was ALWAYS new. so the answer here is a RESOUNDING.......... YES! Oh, BTW, the valve cover gaskets on my car were also done at 100,000 miles by a lexus dealer, which means that they are definately a problem. -
Toys, the 3.0L UIM will bolt right to it, BUT, IIRC, the accuators for the runners are vaccuum controlled ont he ES250, and on the 3.0L, they are electronic. LexusFreak, the STB was factory on all 1990-1991 ES250's mine had one too.
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do not use a car cover! it will FrEEZE to the paint!
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or www.discounttoyotaparts.com
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heh, im worth my weight in gold? thats alot of gold :)
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My 10w2 just blew sky high tonite! I shouldnt really be celebrating, but it was kind of funny, it was working fine (loudly) one minute, next minute i smelled the voice coil burning, but i idnt know what ti was as the sub has always done that (since i got it). a few minutes later the smell became overpowering, and the the sub cut out. didnt just give static, it straight up stopped working. I pulled into the audio shop that did the install (since i was right there anyways) and popped my trunk. BILLOWS of smoke and that aweful smell came from the trunk and sub box. i turned the car on, the amp didnt power up, so i was thinking the worst. An hour later, we found out that condensation on the coil, coupled with overpowering of the speaker (600W to a 10W2 is too much) Blew it so bad that it backflowed electricity to the amp fried its fuse, and blew the fuse at the battery as well. so I upgraded to a W3V2.4 for $25, because it was all under warranty. and it worked great! for 5 seconds, then everything shut off again....hmm...checked the main fuse, BLOWN. so WTF, he replaced the fuse one more time and reset the gains on the amp. this time it ran for about 15 seconds, then popped. so he left the gains where they were, put in a 60 amp fuse (i guess its a 60 amp, he said he was putting in a "60" )and it ran fine, so he retuned the gains and i cranked her all the way home. the old woofer was TOAST. :D
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i never touched a toilet with a toothbrush...LOL.
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I'm not quite sure what you mean by "Get the message" but if you directed it at me, i dont much appreciate it, there is no message to be gotten <_< . FWD, according to many experts (myeslef included, yes i consider myself an expert since i have driven hundreds (i dont even know how many, too many to count) of different cars in all kinds of weather conditions and i prefere FWD over RWD, but i would take a 4x4 over a FWD simply because its better to have 4 wheels driving than only 2, 4x is only good if it is 50front/50rear like a subaru system, or more rear than front biased, such as the system on the porsche cayenne. but, there is no possible way you can make me believe that in any kind of slippery situation, a FWD is worse than a RWD. ESPECIALLY a FWD with a stick. Weight is a factor here too, remember. the lighter you are in ice, the harder it is to get around, my car weighs half (or less) of what the lightest ES weighs. (2,200 lbs with me in it) and dont even go there with the LS, it will be easier to stop, but alot harder to get going (the LS will) because the wight at the frint helps it stop, but there isnt as much weight int he rear to help it grip to go. If i lower my tire pressure to 20 psi, in deep snow, im virtually unstoppable, my coworker has a wrx, and we go plaing int he power in parking lots from time to time, i can go everywhere he can go with little/no problem. and if you have a problem turning, theres an ebrake there. lock up the rear, and you will turn. seriously though, if you let off the gas and let the car coast, ti will grip. the problem with alot of people in any car are the following misnomers: -I have 4x4, i cant get stuck...WRONG. 4x4 can get stuck just as easily, if not easier than my FWD. -Driving on ice is no worse than driving in the rain. WRONG AGAIN: When you are doing 45 and you see a redlight 50 feen in front of you, in the rain, you can stop, on ice, you will slide through the red light...at 50 MPH with all 4 wheels locked if no ABS, and then you could feasibly continue sliding that same speed with almost no decrease for a hundred yards or so. just depends ont he conditions.
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Between DeVry University and State University of New York, Empire State. Both have interesting programs to offer, but my biggest problem here, is not cost, as its all free (the army is great!), but deciding what I want to do. Going to SUNY, means i cant major in Mechanical Engineering, at DeVry, I can, but DeVry has no Criminal justice Program, so it depends entirely on what i want to do. both Schools will allow me to still take classes while on deployment, but SUNY is unique in that, I dont EVER have to see a teacher, the entier time im enrolled. I can do it all over the computer. EVERYTHING. the only time i have to talk to a teacher is if i have a problem, i can do it all online. or, if i choose, i can do 1 on 1 corses, just me and a teacher, no other students. this is good too. DeVry doesnt have this option either. I know about DeeVry, a few of my friends go there, a few more have graduated from there. My question is this, does anyone know anything about SUNY, or maybe even attended there? I would like to know how the classes are, or if the credits are easily transfeered, because i eventually want to get a masters degree. also, helpful tips, comments and suggestiosn are great. feel free t tell me what you think, but right now, its Between Mechanical Engineering-DeVry(Like my little bro) or Criminal justice-SUNY. I hate desicions like this. but those are the 2 choices for majors i have narrowed it down to. I wonder if engineeringis even a good thing to get into, since my math is really not that strong.
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The nokians, havw better traction, butthry are louder.
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Dont wait, if that belt goes, since yoru engine has VVT-i, your engine will be toast. Mrs. Valve will kiss Mr. Piston...bad...very bad. possible bent valves, I have even seen a cracked crankshaft on a mustang mecause a chain broke. you have an interference engine, s i woudl do it on schedule. I have a non interference on my ford, so i will run her till she breaks.
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HAHAHA! thats great! I think one of me is bad enough though. :) His major is Engineering for those who are curious.
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What are you talking about blake? you woulnt even fit in an excursion as tall as you are. you tower over me, and i aint short!! :D
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Your crazy unless you got that backwards, FWD in the snow is superior in EVERY WAY to RWD. why? you have the option to STEER for one. if you dont have good traction in one place you can move sideways to another spot. 2 friends of mine have a blazer and jeep grand cherokee, both 4x4, both have more trouble in the snow than my escort. if you know hwo to drive a FWD, some of them handle better than corvettes (in summer conditions) and than subarus in winter conditions. mine is pinned to the ground, even with the falkens. I lived in Anchorage Alaska for 18 years, my family had all kinds of cars, i gauruntee they saw more snow than anywhere else in the US most of the time, and to make it worse, no salt was ever used (they dont use it there, because people know how to drive). we had an 86 chevy astro that was RWD, that thing was horrible, even with snow tires. didnt get around well at all. we had an old impala (comparable in weight to the LS) and with snow tires it sucked too. my dads dodge dakota 4x4 did...ok...just ok. but my contour, I never got stuck. ever. I drove that car in alaska for 2 years, never got stuck, my dad had it before be for about 5years, and never got it stuck either. I havent been stuck yet in the escort.
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My brother is not a member, but browses as a guest frequently, so feel free to give him your congrats online, he will see them and maybe finally register!
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Nevermind, i figured it out...thanks! :D
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Really? thats good. alot (and i mean ALOT) of shops wont. mine said they do, but this is the first (now yours is the second) time i have heard a body shop say they do this...and i have been through a few body shops LOL.