ArmyofOne

thats exactly what it is. there are 2 buchings on the long control arms in the ES250's rear end. these are called trailing arms. where they connect in the center, under the back seat, the pivot point. those are bad. cost like $10 for the pair and will take like an hour to change its a pretty straightforward procedure. good luck. mine had this problem too. GOT IT. its called a lateral arm. those bushings are bad. #'s 2, and 1 have bushings in those far holes. those are bad. Once again you come thru. You must be my Lexus guardian angel! THANKS!!! If thats not it, check your rear knuckle bushings. but im pretty sure thats it. it sounds like a series of thuds coming from the trunk as you turn or hit a rough road right?

thats exactly what it is. there are 2 buchings on the long control arms in the ES250's rear end. these are called trailing arms. where they connect in the center, under the back seat, the pivot point. those are bad. cost like $10 for the pair and will take like an hour to change its a pretty straightforward procedure. good luck. mine had this problem too. GOT IT. its called a lateral arm. those bushings are bad. #'s 2, and 1 have bushings in those far holes. those are bad.

just the angles.. took those in the parking lot before i even touched the car. i hate *BLEEP*s. if you look at the front bumper, by the grille, very bottom, well...you wont be able to see it, but that thin stip of plastic where a lip would go, is cracked on the left corner. bodykit time!

they dont have the same tread ife. the ZE512 i have is a 60K treadlife, the tires abouve have a 30K treadlife. and they WILL NOT WORK in the snow. i have a friend who has them on an AWD eclipse, and that car is essentially parked for the winter. no can do with those in the snow. the ZE512 is a better all around general purpose tire. if you want GRIP in the summer and ONLY the summer... the ST115 is better. i find the ST115 is more suited to Hi-po RWD cars, like supras and the like.

Be careful Army as you rack up the miles on the Falken's........they are getting a little weak in the snow traction department after about 22,000 miles on my wife's leased Focus (I'm driving it until we have to take it back in March......Lexus is in my underground). They are only rated in that size (205 50 16) for 30,000 miles anyways. B) mine have the 420 rating, 60K miles. but i will bear that in mind. thanks!

you need to wash them, or you will get rust, run it through a touch free once a week, its $8 here and it WILL save your car.

I wasnt meaning to sound harsh. i just cant stand it when someone is told something and i know its wrong. engine braking with an automatic CAN be harmful when not done properly. It sounds like you know what you are doing, carry on. i would still check the fluid regularly. im assuming you do that from your response.

thats exactly what it is. there are 2 buchings on the long control arms in the ES250's rear end. these are called trailing arms. where they connect in the center, under the back seat, the pivot point. those are bad. cost like $10 for the pair and will take like an hour to change its a pretty straightforward procedure. good luck. mine had this problem too.

Ok, now no laughing, but i literally had to take these pictures in the car wash parking lot. because no sooner did i set tire out of the parking lot, and the car was filthy again. so here she is, notice the new plates and plate frames! Not much going on in the winter as she is my daily driver, but trying to keep a car clean/rust free in NY state is a CHORE. let me know your thoughts and opinions. Ill get more from alex bay tomorrow. Cheers!

close, 2.5% is lowest. but i have seen 2.5% double layered so its 0%. :D

No problem, glad i could help. can you tell i have done this before? it wont work with OBD II though, only OBD I.

No they dont, you buy them one at a time. they should be, yes, but they arent always.

you cant, they are wayyy different, the headlights and grille are completely different shapes. it would take custom work. for the price of the work, you could have bought the lexus OEM replacement and already had it painted.

that was my first question to Josh. But, he did type it once in the title and once in the thread so I would have to say he has got a 2002. My calculations put that at 50,000 miles per year. Must be a traveling salesman or something. steviej 200K is middle aged prividing youve done your maintenance. keep driving it till it craps. PM blake918 for a question of how far will it go. 270K in his case, and still going strong.

Well she asked for the nano but my wife thought the other one would be good too. She LOVE's them even though she hasn't been able to use them yet. She's been sick since before Christmas. :( The best gift of all :P LOL, it was a dog dude! haha I got a new Digicam. Polaroid PDC 4055. 4.2MP with 1.5X digital zoom.

I disagree there, for the most part. there are some cases where you find a good deal, but chances are if they only charge 100 bucks, you are greeting cheap film, because Llumar High performance film costs about $600 for a 25 ft roll of 5% (i know lots of people in the business, and even i dont get hookups because of the price of film). a 60 foot roll will tint 3-5 cars depending on their size and amount of windows. something i will agree on is time. the last job i got done, on my 2 door car took half a day. the other thing i will disagree on is the 2 piece back window. if done right, it can be done in 2 pieces. mine is, and you cant even tell where the seam is. reason being, some rear windows are too large for a one piece job, my rear window for instance, was 42" tall at its tallest point, the roll was only 36" wide. therfore a 70/30 split was nessecary. (a 70.30 is a split where 70% of te window is one piece and then 30% is the other) ALSO, (I cant stress this enough) look for a shop that has a BBB (Better Business Beaureu (sp) ) decal on the window.

and he said you are wearing out your transmission. the heat that engine breaking builds up with an auto is IMMENSE. it will burn the fluid FAST. hope you are changing it regularly, if not i would check it, for your sake.

Yours too huh? my 250 did the same exact thing i think at 75 MPH i was spinning along at 3250 or so! those ES250's needed a 5 speed auto.

whoever gave you that ticket was BS! That means you can have a 30% film. Unless you had 5% all around. Doing a 30% front/5% rear combo will look great! trust me. Source: http://www.tintcenter.com/laws/CA/

Are you serious? its not real? you could have (and did) fool me. I think it looks more real than the wood in my ES250 (which was real). I love the gauges. and this camry may be pimpin some RX330 AWD 18" 5 spoke wheels in the next few months.

what year is your ES?

no need fo hatin on me- It's greyish green, solid color. Havent had a chance to find out what "name" color it is yet. Sound like a cool remote system! I'll have to check it out. What brand? If you would like the 91 FSM, I could email it to ya! :P Lol. It's a DEI Valet remote starter system. www.directed.com and click the Valet tab on the left. It's working slowly for me but it's in there. And thanks I have the FSM for the wiring, engine and transmission. I'm having a difficult time comprehending it all though. NO KIDDING! It took a while to get into their mindset! WINDOW TINT is a MUST have. 5% on the rear and 20% on the front will go quite nicely.

Under the intake manifold.:cries: Sure hope I don't have to replace it! Entails about 4 careful hrs. of work. I've checked several threads on it to help "semi" prepare myself if it comes to it. I told you, if it comes down to it, pull the cluster out and yank the bulb out. get it smogged, then fix the problem and stick the bulb back in. It will pass even with that sensor out.

My ES250 did that when my radiator was clogged. the reading at the top fo the radiato (jason measured it with some kind fo thermometer) read 177 degrees and the bottm reading was about 56 degrees. so the bottom half of my radiator wasnt working. just a thought., and yes, a new t-stat could be faulty. happens alot.

I concur with this diagnosis. you have a while to go before any reap problems. you may find that diesle fuel wil clean that right off. DISCLAIMER: DO NTO PUT DIESEL on the cams unless tey are removed from the car....Diesel may do irrepairable harm if uesd to clean cams while they are in place.