lexis lexus

I'm just finishing up head gasket replacement job, started out as knock sensors but kept getting bigger. Took 4-5 months. If I wasn't so cheap, I'd have sprung for the $1500. OTOH, I've learned a lot while doing it both in terms of knowledge as well as skill (how to pull out broken bolts, tap f-ked threads), not to mention new tools. You might want to get a few estimates from non dealership shops, obviously less expensive. Good luck! LL

Overheating under heavy pull suggests head gasket (more likely than) or a cracked something. I had a similar symptom in my '94 (different v6). Turned out the breach was on bank one, back side of the engine and never saw water dripping when it was still. Would just run out of water from time to time and overheat. I'd watch the sucker closely and kept topping off the resevoir but every so often, it would overheat. And then I couldn't tell if it was originally a bad gasket, or just the overheating episodes did the damage. I assume a new theromostat too? LL

Cobia, Bit confusing. One initially would suspect the brake switch as braking started shutting off your radio, but... I took a brief look at schematics in my Haynes. Can't find the brake switch, but what seems to be sticking out like a sore thumb is the ign switch which could cause probs w/ radio, lights, and starter. I agree, check all cables, you may even want to try kicking the starter w/ cables if you can get to it easily, direct from the battery, if that works, that suggests ign switch is bad. When I bought my '94, the prior owner gave me all service records, and I was surprised to see replacement for the ign switch. LL

So, I've thought a bit about this situation. Both o2 sensors prolly don't mean they are both bad, but perhaps just that they are reading way too much oxygen, top ending in the voltage output and not fluctuating as they should, creating code for malfunction in addition to the slow response codes bilaterally. A workable theory. Took the top off again today, and started tightening down intake manifold bolts/nuts. They were quite easy to turn, but the specs says 13 lbs, and that doesn't seem quite enough. Slowly turned them down in sequence, so far haven't broken anything, but still not at a hard stop on any of them. While I had the plenum/throttle body off, I took off the EGR and cleaned filter on the modulator and the passages to the valve. EGR works when vacuum applied. Am currently soaking the micky ficky screws on the idle air control in my home made brew of acetone and atf (50/50, works better than the very expensive penetrants I've read and seen) as I thought it'd be good to clean that as well. Keep ya'll posted. LL

Guys and Gals, So, I just got finished the head gasket/timing belt job from hell, all started due to bad knock sensors (see prior posts). Got it on the road, purring nicely and within a few miles it threw a code. This was the first (of many) an 0135 (02 sensor heater circuit, bank 1 sensor 1). So I replaced that 02 sensor with another (yanker yard) one (not too difficult, if you have a long enough arm and can swing a wrench w/ one hand...took only 10 min). Cleared it and went driving w/out a CEL. So the next day, I took it out and bam, 2nd CEL, turned out to be a 0402, EGR flow excessive. So I set out checking the EGR (works fine w/ vacuum), cleaned out the EGR modulator, replaced all vacuum hoses I could get to w/ tight new ones, cleared it and went out again. No further 0402, but now it threw an 0171 (system too lean bank 1). Now I'm thinking I may need to take the top off again and tighten up the intake manifold better (I swear, I torqued it to spec, but the car didn't run very smoothly until I tightened it and the plenum down pretty hard) as it may be sucking air somewhere (but still no 0135 or 0402! am I making progress?). I cleared the 0171 and went out again. As I've come to expect, CEL popped on several miles later. Now I'm showing (get this...) 0130 (02 sensor circuit bank 1, sensor 1 (the one I replaced), 0133 (o2 sensor sircuit slow response bank 1 sensor 1), 0150 (02 sensor circuit bank 2 sensor 1), 0153 (o2 sensor slow repsonse bank 2 sensor 1) and last but not least, 0171 (system too lean bank 1). DEspite this hailstorm of codes, car runs very nicely. I'd love to hear what some of the gurus think. LL

THE REST OF THE STORY....Ok, so I finally got it together. As I said in the prior post I put the timing belt on then the covers, then the intake with the new knock sensors, harness and coolant hose underneath. Couldn't start it at first until I realized I'd not put the maf sensor cable back on. It initially ran very roughly but as time went on it slowly got better. Discovered that the intake and plenum were prolly not tightened up enough, as spraying w/ wd 40 made it run much smoother. I swear I torqued them to spec, as I was fearful of snapping a bolt or two, but after hand tightening down the plenum to intake bolts well past spec, and doing the same w/ the accessable bolts/nuts on the intake manifold, it's been purring like a kitten. Of course, I was not that hopeful and within the first few miles on the road, started throwing codes..... but I'll leave that for another topic.

Thanks. That seems to be a more normal rpm for 65 mph. I think there's a slight difference w/ od off, seems the shifting is a bit more agressive, but no dif in rpms at 65. Today it threw a p0402 code, excessive egr. Manuals indicate no impact on od (but does explain the hunting idle...) In trying to research, seems that the lack of od could be caused by major tranny probs, or perhaps a bad solenoid valve. Currently trying to figure out how to trouble shoot the absent od. LL

I thought I'd be able to get overdrive to work once I was able to replace the knock sensors (see prior posts) but now it's all back together and still no overdrive -- I THINK. No codes, no od off light. Runs about 3500 rpm at 65 mph. So, is this normal overdrive? I would think it'd drop down to at least the 2500 rpm range above 60. But never having had a lexus or camry before, I don't really know how it should behave. I've not been able to find a description of rpms at given mph either in or out of this site. 94, 1mzfe Let me know what kind of rpms you guys get at 65 mph. LL

I'm stuck. Where are the FAQ's on this site? LL

Hmm. My obdII reader needs the car to be running before it'll interface (I've a connect to laptop reader cable). So if you can keep it running long enough you might get a read. I looked in my Haynes under trouble shooting. For "engine starts but stops immediately: 1. Loose or faulty electrical connections at ... coils or alternator 2. Insufficient fuel reaching the fuel injectors 3. Vacuum leak at the gasket between the intake manifold/plenum and the throttle body. LL

I'd check the power steering fluid first in the resevoir just above the coolant overflow tank next to the passenger side fender, then check for leaks at or under the pump. The pump sits on the passenger side just below #1 cyl, buried so to speak. Cardboard under that area. If the fluid is low and/or there is a leak, may want to try some power steering stop leak. The sticking half way through your turn seems unsusual, could possibly indicate a problem w/ the rack, or even the steering linkages. You could take it in (Lexus expensive just driving in, midas or precision tune might give you a free estimate) and get a hand's on opinion and then decide what to do. LL

OK, it has been awhile. I've gotten back to my 94 es300 (1mz fe) project. This is turning into a good story for those who like to wrench... To summarize: 1. Initial problem was knock sensors. No amt of merge wiring, externally mounted sensors, etc was successful in removing the cel. In addition the care would occasionlly overheat, like every 400 miles, despite scrupulous monitoring of coolant levels, looking for leaks. 2. So I finally decided to go knock sensor diving. A busted intake bolt on the rearward head (for some rediculous reason it's called the right side...) convinced me I needed to take the heads off and replace the gaskets (toward which I was leaning due to overheating) after getting the f'd flange on the head repaired. 3. Spent a rediculous amount of time and effort in trying to put the rearward head on due to not being able to get the exh manifold-to-block cooler-EGR pipe to mate up (yes, California car....) I finally, in a fit of desparation chernobled the pipe-block connection after getting one nut on partially. 4. I reassembled everything, put all cams back with the marks I'd made, then put the top half back on (valve covers, intake manifold, plenum, throttle body) 5. Fired it up and it ran for about 30 seconds, very roughly then stopped, cranking would turn it over verrrrry slowly if at all. Here's the rest of the story to date: 6. Hired a mobile mechanic who discovered a) water in the oil (not previously there)due to damaged rearward head gasket (due to all the on and off required to get the EGR to almost fit), and b)a shredded timing belt, due to not putting the positioning bolt back in the bracket holding the #2 timing belt idler pulley, causing it to veer off line, walking the timing belt off. (alright, I messed up on this one big time, but hey, it's a hobby, right?) 7. We (mech and me) went back in, took the heads off and had them planed, spent a lot of time cleaing the block surface (something I'd falied to do previously), and then bolted down the rearward head (bank 1, right side head, 1,3,5 cylinder head, whatever). 8. He and I had a bet ($5) that he could put the rearward exhaust manifold on AFTER bolting down the head. But he couldn't get the studs to thread properly while lying on his stomach on top of the block--due to the micky ficky egr pipe throwing everything off! 9. The mech then disappeared, and shortly thereafter so did I--went to St. Croix to drown my sorrow in numerous margaritas, 80 degree weather. I thought about the Lexus a few times but mostly with the rage of a man who has lost a battle but not willing to give up the war.... 10. Upon returning 3 weeks ago, still no sign of the mech, so I screwed (literally) around with the rear exh manifolt, having to drop the exhaust from the front on back to the cat, in order to get enough wiggle room to get the rearward exhaust manifold + EGR pipe out. chased out the threads of all open exhaust manifold stud holes with a tap (lying on top of the engine...) and put studs in everything. then spent a rediculous amount of time trying to get the exh manifold+EGR back in and mated with all the studs I'd replaced. finally got it and started cursing and swearing at the car, telling it I'd kicked it's !Removed!.... really quite comical to see me.... 11. Next I spent way too much time figuring out how to get the timing right, making it a bit more difficult than it is.... NOTE: I WAS IN ERROR ABOVE WHEN I SAID I HAD TO MATCH THE ONE DOT ON ONE CAM GEAR WITH THE TWO DOT ON THE OTHER CAM GEAR its one dot to one dot (or if you prefer 2 dot to 2 dot) I know this cause the timing marks wouldn't line up otherwise. I was able to find TDC with the trick of using a long straw stuck thru the spark plug hole in #1 cylinder and then turning the crank shaft while watching the straw go up and down. jeez there must have been 10 marks on the crank timing gear and oil pump housing, (I didn't put them there) so one had to decide which ones to mate up, the straw trick worked well. 12. At this point the (new) belt is on, all the marks line up, and I'm getting ready to put the timing belt covers back on, moving on then to the top side (intake etc) I'll keep every one posted. Thanks to all above who shared their wisdom... LL

High prob that there's a bad switch or switch contact. If you like wrenching, why don't you try accessing the non functioning switch or switches, and just clean the contacts and reseat them? LL

You have to pull the plastic panel about 3x4 inches above your left knee, the obdII connector is there next to the fuses. The round connector below the steering wheel is a lexus specific connector of some type. But not having a check engine light on suggests there are no codes as you say, unless the light is out itself. Easy test, as the light should come on when you first start then wink out. I can't even guess what's causing your start 'n stall problem. You must be getting gas or it wouldn't start at all. I would have gone for the same things you did. I do wonder about the cold start injector, which if bad might prvent it from staying "started" when cold. Hope others have some ideas... LL

codes? LL

Try ebay? This isn't black, but it's off a '98 which should fit I believe, ebay item # 250684457372, $45 plus $10 LL

Pix are a bit difficult to see, but having just spent a few weeks wrestling w/ my rear (bank 1) manifold on my 1mzfe, I may be able to venture a guess. What is broken appears to be the Y shaped exhaust pipe connecting the front and rear manifolds to the downstream pipe that runs into the cat about 2 feet further distal. You'll need to replace this, by unbolting it from both manifolds (12 mm lock nuts that are a bear to get off, use a lot of penetrant and a air impact wrench, or a 1/2 inch socket w/ much leverage) and removing the clamp just below the pipe/manifold connection on the front. Not sure how it's connected to the down pipe, but may be a big ring clamp, if not welded. I bet this piece is quite expensive new, but a trip to the junk yard might give you a good practice lesson and/or prolly wouldn't cost that much to have them take it off. OTOH, midas could do it too for enough money w/ out paying lexus or toyota outrageous labor fees, particularly if you don't want to get dirty on your back. LL

This could be many things. Do you have a check engine light on? LL

power steering problem. prolly low on fluid, so check that first. May have a leak. power steering belt being loose may be the next place to look. LL

Best guess is timing belt or cams are the problem (given air is coming out of the intake instead of in). If you're cranking, then check to see if you're getting any spark or fuel coming in. And there are a few dozen elec and hose connections, on the intake side (above heads) any one of which could have been missed, so check all of these. LL

Nobu, Not sure about '99. What engine is in your rx300? Look at the front bank timing belt cover where the numbers usually are. In the 1mzfe and earlier, two ks located under the intake manifold in the "valley" between the two banks (cyl heads). Ks bolt into the block just below the heads on either side. Note the intake manifold is is different than the plenum which attaches to the top of the intake). LL

You could try a stop leak, but w/ the current performance I'm not sure it'd be worth the $5-10. Doing the head gaskets is a major job, but not unmanageble by the backyard mechanic if you have a good set of tools, some knowledge of engine work, a bit of time, and some motivation. You'll need to pull off the intake side (air intake, throttle body, intake plenum and intake manifold) in order to even get to the rear head valve cover, etc. You can spend a lot of money in parts, but for your vintage I'd recommend a head gasket set (about $55 cheap on ebay) which should have all the replacement gaskets you need, plus plugs. Should plan on breaking at least a few bolts and connectors in removal process, some in nasty places. Take a lot of pix, take detailed notes as these will help in reassembly. Heads and valves might need to be r and r'd (how many miles?). Overall job in parts, extra tools, and machine shop fees will be in the $300-$600 range. 2-3x's that much at Lexus, mid way w/ a local mechanic. It all depends on the overall condition of the car. If it's sweet, and you paid only $1000 for it initially, say, an investment of $500 to $2000 may be worth it. The es300 prolly will never be a collectors car though, and current retail values are in the $2500-$4000 range and won't be going up. Sometimes I think about parting my '94 on ebay.... LL

You got it right. Heater circuits were added in the mid '90s, to make the old one's obsolete, but also in the service of making the new ones work "better" possibly in terms of engine management, and definitely in terms of jacking to cost up. I believe bank one is on the firewall side of the engine. Some debate about this, so get an additional opinion, preferrably from the lexus or toyoto mech when you go in and see how much it's gonna cost you to get them to do it. If it is on the back, it's not an easy one to get to from above, not sure from below, as I've only removed it after taking the intake off. If bank one is toward the front of the car, then it's quite easy to take off, as long as you have the right 02 sensor wrench or a large open or closed end wrench that fits. If you're handy with a soldering iron/gun, then a universal 4 lead 02 sensor can be had on ebay for $30-50, and if not, one with the proper connector can be had in the $80 range. Of course, going to a yanker yard would give you the anatomy lesson you need and you might get a good one for only $5 LL

ebay.... keep an eye out, they sometimes go for 10-15$ LL

do you really need it? LL