lexis lexus

Could have lost a shim on the brake pads, leading to them being loose until you jam down? The bearing requires removing caliper among other things. Might want to check back w/ mechanic who did it. LL

Lovelearn, Man, I feel for you w/ those bolts. Seems like after 19 years, everything is rusted tight. Tells ya, that no one ever had the top off, or if they did, they torqued those bolts on with an airgun or a 22 inch ratchet handle. Nowadays, when I have to unbolt anything, if it seems even the little bit difficult, I'll soak it in penetrant for a day or two. I've had too many broken off or rounded off bolts to my likes... BTW, the best penetrant I've ever used is a 50/50 mix of acetone and atf. Pretty inexpensive too. I did the "gaskets" on my '94. Seemed like they just slid right in, altho I'm now wondering if they actually sealed properly. I've been getting a system too lean on bank one forever, don't smell any gas though. Maybe I'll get out there w/ my mirror and check it out. LL

Super! Let us know how it goes. ll

J, OK, I looked at my wires. They go this way, using your first picture, top left black, top right brown, bottom left blue, bottome right brown/black. But regardless, the connector is toast -- actually it was toasted which is why it broke off. You either need to get a new connector from a yard, or remove the injector side connector and just solder the 4 together (either way, need to be soldering down in that hole) Might be able to use wire nuts and electrical tape, but this won't be as solid. Good luck LL

94 es 300. the lights for the station buttons on my factory head unit are gone. Lookes like tiny led lights soldered to the front/vertical circuit board. No replacements at Toyota/Lexus parts. I think I've found some on line, but they come in several voltages. No way to tell in schematics in the FSM which don't even go there. Anyone know the voltage rating for these suckers? LL

Sounds like a mess. Working on these old es300's causes a lot of stuff to break. If it were me, I'd go to a do it yourself junk yard and find a similar car, 94-96 were very much alike, and study the wires/locations. Then if you couldn't match up your wires and connect/solder them, just cut the one in the junk yard out (from the rear branch of the engine wiring harness) and splice it into yours. I had a slightly similar problem w/ the connector to one of the coils which crumbled as I tried to remove it. No replacements unless I wanted to buy the entire freaking wiring harness (>$1000 at the dealer) so I just found 'em in the yard and cut off a few, cost me $5 In terms of getting the connector apart, you really have to study the sucker and pry w/ a small flat head screw driver to lift the appropriate lever while worrying the connector out. Might want to try it on the front bank where visibility and access is a lot better, thats the same connector, and will help you with the rear. The plastic cable tie could be cut with a thin knife slid carefully between it and the wire sheath of the o2 sensor wires. Write back if you need me to get my '94's wire color to connector info. LL

I believe its a separate fill plug for the dif, run a funnel/hose from up top after taking the plug out. LL

I agree with Mike, given the history of exhaust pipe problem, but hard to explain why now as opposed to when you hit the snow. Here's a nice write up about the 0170 code: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0170

Sorry to hear of your probs. Bummer to get a new/used car only for problems to start. But then I've come to expect this -- particularly from vehicles 15 years old -- and encourage you to think of it as the first step down a journey of discovery.... (ya I know, pretty corny). A few days after I bought my '94, the driver's window wouldn't go up. Had to dig into the door and learn it by doing. I recall reading a post few months ago, someone had a similar problem to yours, ended up taking out the interior plastic door latch, accessing the control rods and opening the lock from there with creative use of pliers. Once the door's opened, you can take off the panel and figure out what part isn't working. Sometimes it's just cleaning off contacts. But itmay be the door lock actuators. Parts can be found at u pull it junk yards, fairly inexpensive. And pulling the parts yourself provides free anatomy lessons. Haynes manual for same year camry is definitely worth the investment if you plan to keep this car. Good luck, and keep us informed of your progress. LL

Dude, A few days after my post at the end of July, I decided to jump in with both feet. This was after I'd been running the ac on and off most of July. I finally saw that the compressor was seizing from time to time, and this is unfortunately the end result of a malfunctioning expansion valve. The AC kept getting more and more anemic and then seemed to just quit. So I ordered parts on line from rycompressors, and spent a few days replacing compressor, expansion valve and drier. First, you have to get the system evacuated. Going rate at chain shops is about $130, but a local independent mechanic with the right equipment may do it for $90. That fee includes first sucking up any r134 you have in the system, and then later a vacuum evacuation and recharge when your done replacing everything. Getting to the drier is easy, it's just below the battery, but getting the expansion valve out was a few hours and then a few hours putting it back in -- all while on my knees spelunking under the passenger side dash. There's a great post back in '07 where a member gives the full details of this task. Long story short, have to remove glove box, disconnect air bag, disconnect and remove computer, disconnect just about everything else down there, remove passenger side air duct, remove blower motor and then the blower motor housing (that was the trickiest/hardest part), remove plastic evaporator cover plate, disconnect the two ac lines going into the firewall, and then easily slide out evaporator with the expansion valve attached. Go to napa and get replacement (ac special) o rings for the evap to expansion valve connections, expansion valve to internal ac lines, internal ac lines to firewall coupling, and don't forget the o rings for the drier as well. Before you put anything back together, you need to flush each line in the system with ac system flush (about $12 at Autozone for a quart), using an air compressor (remember your gonna save yourself about $900 and a compressor is a handy thing to have...sort of an investment. Take it back to the mechanic and get it evac'd and recharged. Then you're good to go, and cold. Like I said, I replaced the compressor, and that's fairly straightforward as well, fairly accessable once you take the alternator off. If you decide to do this, post back and I'll try to cut and paste the '07 details for the expansion valve. It's not an overly difficult job for your average shade tree guy like me. LL

Lexlogic, Nice idea, but if you are going to do that, you'll have to take the throttlebody/plenum off, and then might as well just replace the knock sensors while you're 80% into the job. But if that's not the problem, then.... LL

Chuck, First, I need to qualify my advice, as I'm most familiar with the 1mz fe engine from the '94-'97 mark. However on most toyota/lexus v6's, # 5 is the back driver's side. The connector probably sits just below the valve cover adjacent to the end of the head, with wires running forward and diving into the valley below the intake manifold. To get a better look at it you may need to take the air filter lid and snorkel off the throttle body. Fuel cleaner won't fix the knock sensor problem. When the cel is set, it's because there's no signal. It's either a knock sensor, the wiring harness, or problem going from the connector to the computer. If you're showing only one knock sensor code, then this is a good prognostic sign that the jump will work. Try the jump, if that doesn't work, back probe the connection to the computer, and if you get that far w/out success, you'll need to take the whole intake off to replace the sensors. Can get guidance on this from many of us if you have to take it apart. Fun if you like to wrench, and a good way to save a lot of money. LL

I believe es 300's went to a/f sensors sometime around '99, thus the confusion. They operate a bit differently from o2 sensors, but for the same purpose. I'd start with simple things, like resetting. If it's over 100K, then replacing the sensor wouldn't be too difficult, and not a wasted purchase as they do need to be replaced at this age. If ya do this and it's still running rough, then go looking for other problems. LL

Makes little sense, smoke coming from brake booster, or for that matter, causing those codes. It's a mechanical air pumping device. Push the pedal down, this compresses air in the booster which then gives the brakes "power" and provides an ancillary source of vacuum when you lift your foot off. I had a bad hose on another car, which didn't cause any engine mgt problems, but did lead to the pedal feeling like a brick after the first stomp while stopping. There's usually a one way check valve in the brake booster vacuum line that holds the vacuum when you hit the pedal.RTL's experience of plugging the vacuum line might be a good experiment for you Brij, then clear the codes and see if they come back, (but be careful with the brakes, takes a lot more foot power to stop the car..). Do you see any smoke? If you do, it's prolly coming from somewhere else. LL

MayorC, I recall reading that on the forum as well, and last year when I was getting knock sensor codes I tried it, as well as running a wire from a knock sensor mounted to one of the intake bolts by cyl #6 (driver's side, front bank). It was suggested that as long as there was competent signal coming from some knock sensor, the computer would act normal. Well, the externally mounted knock sensor approach didn't work, I guess because there wasn't enough vibration/signal generation. The jump from the bank 2 knock sensor to bank 1 knock sensor didn't work either, but this was due to both sensors being toasted (literally) when I finally dug into the valley. Overall, the jump at or near the connector below cyl #5 is definitely worth a try IMO. Takes about 20 mintues, and if it doesn't work, you haven't lost anything. It would also be worth a try to back probe the wires from that same connector to the computer, just to make sure there's continuity. LL

The rest of the story. I continued to "sweat" it out over the last few weeks. Noted idle dropping became more noticable over time, as the ability to cool decreased. Finally when it was idling, I saw the compressor and/or clutch seize, dragging the belt over the pully leading to idle drop. So decided to dig in and replace both expansion valve and the compressor. Got a good deal from rycompressors in FL, just less than $300 for these parts plus a drier and shipping. I spent an hour or so one night going back through the archives and found a very good step by step description (from 2007) of how to get the evaporator out to replace the expansion valve. It involves some spelunking under the passenger side dash, took me about 1 1/2 hrs to get the evap/expansion valve out, but 3 hrs to get it back in -- things are tight. Flushed each line, and replaced all the orings (napa has a good selection..) then put it all back together. Down to the local mech to get it evac'd and recharged. Now it's real cold! LL

My understanding of this situation. When knock sensors fail to provide any signal (either due to bad sensor or more likely due to fried wiring harness which sits in the valley between the two heads on top of the block, perhaps the hottest place in the engine compartment aside from the exhaust manifolds), the engine defaults to a state to prevent knocking, this takes out overdrive and traction. Seems a design flaw to me, but then it generates a lot of $1500, visits to Lexus dealership... LL

so now you should check the wires for continuity back to the computer (called back probing, just like you did w/ the fuse holders. I don't have schematics/ connector diagrams for the '01, but I bet someone here does or you can find it on line. Not sure where the relays are either. $60-100 at an independent electric shop would take about an hour to diagnose, vrs longer with you doing it, but hey where's the fun in that? Might be time to purchase a factory service manual for your es, specially if you plan to keep it. LL

check the fuses? does the fan run if you hot wire it? if it does then you have a wiring problem, if it doesn't then the fan is bad. have you a cel/dtc code? Let us know. LL

milage? last new plugs? cel/codes? can't expect much help w/out more info.... LL

T square, I'm also have the same problems now (not when you first posted). Same intermittant ac operation, no ac diagnostic codes. I think I'll try to replace the relay (easy/cheap), but am also thinking about the expansion valve. Based on my FSM diagnostic approach, it wants me to chase down/check 1) compressor lock sensor circuit, 2) Compressor circuit, 3) Pressure switch circuit, 4) Igniter circuit, 5) Air mix servo motor circuit, 6) Air mix damper position sensor circuit, 7) room temp sensor circuit, 8) Ambient temp sensor circuit. Aside from not knowing where half of these sensors/circuits are, I wonder why they need to be checked if I'm getting no diagnostic codes, which I presume test the same things. Did you solve your problem? If so how? LL

DD, First, let me congratulate you for being brave enough to tackle such a project at such a young age. You will have years of wrenching ahead of you, and your experience with this 93 es will be invaluable, regardless of the outcome!! As to the problems... Are you getting a check engine light? If so let us know what dtcs are being thrown. I don't think there is an obdII connector with the '93 so a few bucks spent at a toyota dealership to get the cel/dtcs might save you a lot later. How did the mechanic know it was fuel injector(s)? Did he do codes? I've never heard that a bad injector could cause white smoke (but I'm only a shade tree mech myself). Be interested if anyone else has heard of this explanation. Rough idle can be caused by lots of things, including a bad injector, that's why the dtc's are important to lead the way. White smoke indicates water in the fuel mix, but to indicate a gasket breech there is usually water in the oil as well, or you should be losing coolant and/or overheating. This is a chicken or egg question as overheating can blow a gasket and a blown gasket will cause overheating. Not sure why you thought replacing the computer would help, and $200 is 20% of your sock. Can you return it? Should for that price, particularly if it doesn't fix your problem. Whether it's injectors, or head gaskets, it's the same job getting down to them pretty much, with the latter requiring taking the heads off as the last step. Get a Haynes manual for the camry of that same year (can be had on ebay for $15), and it's very helpful doing this job. Some of your money will need to go toward tools if you don't have them, but this is usually a good investment. Make sure you have a set of good metric sockets, short and deep, will need 12 point 12 mm to get the head bolts off. Be prepared to break a several (18+ year old rusted overheated) bolts, and learn how to use a tap and die set if you haven't already -- it's a great set of skills that will last you a life time. Before you take the heads off (and before you take the wiring harness off), try to do compression testing on all cylinders. It's a bit tricky to get to the rears while maintaining your cranking capacity, but the info may help you decide if you need to do valves and/or rings as well (poor compression in one or more cylinders could cause rough idle...) Again while your going to the trouble to take the intake off (takes 8 hrs or so the first time), consider replacing the spark plugs, and thermostat (see overheating above) at a minimum. Injectors can be replaced as well, but you might want to try and test them first before tossing them. (google "cleaning and testing fuel injectors) Good idea to do the timing belt as well. If you have codes indicating the knock sensors, then replace those (and the small wiring harness from them) too (underneath the lower intake manifold). Good plugs will cost about $45/set, timing belt is $20-30, thermostat not too expensive, but knock sensors are pricey. A head gasket set can be had on ebay for about $60 (I got mine from a company I've used called Eristic for that price, no need to pay the $450 at autoparts stores.) Good idea to replace the head bolts if your are going to do the gaskets, about $30 maybe. I'm not sure about the relays, but it's unlikely that the car would run if a needed relay was missing. I have a lot of empty spaces in the boxes up front in my '94 (different engine), but never thought much about it as the car runs quite well most of the time. I'd post pone changing out fluids until after the head gasket job, you'll have to drain the coolant anyhow, will need to change oil as well, and while you have the car up, you can drop the oil pan if you want to see what that looks like. Good luck, and let us know how this project goes. LL

Beach, year and milage info would be helpful. Given that you have AF sensors, that would put it in the 98 or 99 year and younger. I can't understand why you'd get an 1135 due to messing with the vacuum lines up front, could just be coincidence, but AF sensors go bad with age, and you won't lose a lot to replace the sensor (bank1, sensor 1 for 1135), even it if doesn't solve the dtc (which I bet it will). LL

aside from electrical, could be expansion valve freezing up LL

Shouldn't be too much of a problem, if you're mechanically inclined. good part is that it isn't a greasy job. but it does require some time and patience. using an inexpensive set of door panel pry bars (harbor freight) makes the job easier and w/ decreased liklihood of breaking or losing parts, but a large bladed screw driver covered w/ duct tape will do in a pinch. It's been a while since I did this so I may not have all the steps, but if you take your time it should come off well. First remove the plastic cup behind the door open lever, this boy can break so be gentle, it's held in place by a few clips, may need to be slid forward or reversed to free them up, and once free, it slides over the handle which remains in place. Next is a screw located at the bottom of the finger grab on the door rest, may be an insert of felt like material that has to be removed first. There is also, if I recall correctly a screw under a plastic snap cap on the surface in the front of the door, the surface that meets the dash when the door is closed. May be a similar screw on the rear articulating surface of the door as well. Now your ready to start popping up the many plastic pop rivets that hold the door panel in place. You couldn't remove just one part of it, since it's all one piece. The switch panel does come out separately, but only when you unscrew it from inside the door panel. You were right to not press your luck, since that switch panel is very easy to crack. You may be able to find your card at the bottom of the door, and this may require only lifting the panel out and rooting around inside w/ your hand. If this doesn't work, then after popping the bottom and side rivets, you have to lift up on the panel until it moves off the top, then the only thing holding the panel in place are 3 (or 4?) electrical clips to the window, lock, light,trunk/gas release switches, and speakers. Re install in the reverse order, popping clips back in by smacking them with the palm of your hand on the surface of the panel. Good luck. LL