lexis lexus

I agree w/ rick. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I'm not sure about the arrangement of hoses on the '92, but on my 94 there are 4 small water hoses on that side of the engine, two go to and from the underside of the throttle body, and 2 go to the heater w/ connections on the firewall.

Hi, I never had any luck downloading the fsm off this site. Best to get a Haynes for the Toyota camry of the same year. I did buy a digital fsm off ebay for a few bucks but there was no index. The job will take many hours/days in and back. First step is to remove the intake side (2-3 hr minimum if you've done it before, longer if you haven't. Then the fuel rail, timing belt and pullies, then heads. (all this can be found in haynes). While you're down there, plan to replace the spark plugs, timing belt, the knock sensors and their wiring harness, the egr valve, possibly a thermostat, the water hose that runs under the intake manifold (if the '96 has this not sure), both oxygen sensors if they aren't new, head bolts, prolly the exhaust studs and bolts, and of course most of the things you break. I found (not in the books) it very useful to disconnect the wiring harness at the computer under the glove compartment and then pull the connectors through the firewall, so that the harness (which wraps around the outside of the rear head and the front and rear of the engine) can be pulled up in the air to make access much easier. Also think it's better to not unbolt the rear ex manifold from the rear head, but just pull both out as a unit, easier to get back in. Will need a head gasket kit. I got mine on ebay for about $50, which has worked very well, (no leaks after 2 years and 20k miles) or you can buy one at Autozone or Advance for $300-$400 (look for a company called erista on ebay). Good luck and keep us posted. There's a lot written on this site about how to do this, but not in any one place or time. LL

Reminds me of Bullwinkle's old saying, "Where brains fail....brawn prevails..." Sears makes a great broken bolt extractor set, but it's pricey, however worthwhile investment. Unlikely radio work has caused probs w/ mirrors. Look for a bad fuse. LL

Sounds like you're having some fun..... Battery probably bad, but those connectors can do it too. If neither one of those fixes it, you may need a new starter. Another problem that can happen is that the cables end up corroding from the inside -- 22 years old! They'll carry some charge, but can't do the full load which is what's needed to get started. I agree, fluid from the battery is not normal, and that's where I'd start. Not sure what to say about the struts. I make a lubricant by mixing 50% acetone and 50% auto trans fluid (from old Popular Mechanics article). Works better than most everything on the market, and a lot less expensive than most. Squirt it on daily for several days, then try. Another trick is to heat up the fastener w/ a propane torch to break the fused threads holding it in. As Archimedes said, "give me a long enough lever and I'll move the earth..." so you might be able to take advantage of the attached strut to just torque the thing off. Lastly, might need to drill a good sized hole thru the body of the stuck fastener and then try to turn with a long Phillips screwdriver. I've had my share of stuck and broken bolts and fasteners on my '94, it takes time but you'll get there. LL

I had an additional thought, based on your description of the trans reving up and then engaging. I'm not sure, but this may represent a bad torque converter, or not enough fluid, causing poor TC function. Unless there was a radical redesign of the ES in the '00s, there's only one computer that controls engine and transmission (among other things), and it's probably located behind the glove box. LL

I had a slightly different problem a while back w/ my '94. It wouldn't go into overdrive, and I would cruise at 60 mph running 3300 rpms. AFter I replaced the fluid and filter w/ no benefit. I took it to a transmission shop and they opined that it was probably electrical. Took it to the electric shop and they thought it "might" be a computer problem. I didn't want to spend a lot for a new one on a guess, so waited until I found a match at the bone yard (took about 8 mos of hunting...gotta find just the right one as there are several different computers for each year based on trim level, etc). Popped the computer in and got my overdrive back. LL

Ya, if you had 02 sensor probs you'd get a code for it. I was not clear that you had a code already, as you said earlier you didn't. What tells you it's a small evap leak? If it is, you've got to do systematic work. Replace every vacuum line in the system all the way back to the gas tank if needed, as that's the cheapest and easiest thing to do. If that doesn't work, then you have to start inspecting components of the evap system. When the car is idling rough, go over every thing w/ wd40 spray and whey you find the leakl it should even out briefly. Then replace that part. Taking off the IAC is not an easy job, at least not on my '94. It is possible there's a leak there but not my first choice. I'd look at the pastic and rubber parts first. LL

Easy job up front, hardly have to take anything off I bet. (altho am not familiar with your gen 3s300) If ya got the money, then going OEM is the right idea w/ oxygen sensors. But these sensors are available aftermarket for less $$. O2 sensors are like spark plugs, they wear out. IMHO buying spark plugs or O2 sensors at Toyoto or Lexus dealerships will be at least a 20% mark up and maybe even more. Check with local auto stores, amazon, rock auto. You'll be amazed... LL

It's not clear to me why you think it's the IAC. But if you're '02 is similar to my '94, then you've got to take the intake off. The IAC is screwed onto the bottom of the throttle body, and those screws are a bugger to get off, I had to do it on my bench, w/ an impact driver. The first question is what are the codes? Get the #s (autozone will do them I believe for free if you don't have a reader) and look them up. Then if it says you have a problem w/ evap leak, then start chasing those lines, not w/ smoke but w/ wd40. Trying to change or fix things willy nilly is not the best approach. See where the computer points you and then start testing out that system, sensor, etc. How many miles? How many miles since spark plugs replaced? How many miles since o2 sensors (or whatever they're called on the '02) replaced? LL

Congrats Greg. I never posted the "rest of the story" to my driver's side front window problem. So I did get a new swtich, swapped it in and still no movement. I was disheartened, but kept at it, first checking the wiring from the switch to the motor, that was ok too. I finally took out the motor itself and then seeing the bushings were really crudded up, took a file to them and burnished the surfaces, all this after having removed the armature and screw from the motor housing. I recall reading about this on another thread in the archives. I put it back in thinking "if it's already broke, can't really break it anymore..." Plugged the swtich back in, and damn, it worked, and continues to work. Beats paying a buck quarter for a rebuilt motor (I've a 94 es, parts a bit cheaper). So Greg, I bet you're removal of the motor, losened up something, like a jammed screw to gear surface, or even something making the bushings not work right. I suspect that is the reason why slamming the door works as well. LL

Hi, I have a 94 es 300 w/ no overdrive and had supportive opinions by both a transmission shop and an electrical shop that my computer "might be bad." I explored the options of new ($700+), refurbed ($200-$300)and used ($20-$200). I decided the used route was the most attractive in terms of price (pull-a-part price $20), especially for a "lets try it and see if this fixes it.." approach. It took several months of hunting for the right one (have to read the part number off the side of the box) on ebay and in the local yards. I got quite good at extracting the computer from wrecked es300's and I finally landed one in the yard. 10 minutes later ..... overdrive! I even found a $10 bill behind the glove box when I got it! One of the easiest repairs I've made, but took a lot of patience. LL

Just finished wrangling w/ my driver's side window (94 es300). Here's what I learned. Factory service manual recommends replacing switch first and then focus on the window motor. I did the former but that wasn't the problem. Had to take the motor out, cleaned the bushings on the motor and luckily that was what it needed. The problem I had to start with was being able open the window but then it wouldn't go up for a day or so. And when it did move, it was real slow. I suspect a switch problem would be all or none, whereas a motor problem wouldn't as in my case. The fact that earlier your passenger switch was obviously bad (window moved w/ driver's side switch) leads to a theory that that's still the problem. Taking door apart isn't too difficult, but usually has a few tricks that a manual might help with. Above advice useful for switch replacement. LL

I have a similar prob with the driver's side window in my '94 es. I dug into the factory service manual, and under the troubleshooting section for the windows for this type of problem it recommends replacing the master switch first, then if that doesn't work, then the motor. I suspect my master switch is bad and have one coming in (ebay) as they are impossible to find in the junk yards unless you get there when an es300 is being dropped down, ditto for the regulator/motor. In your case, since the motor is running fine, and you've already tried the master switch, suggest the door switch? I like the reset idea, altho in my case the window actually goes up and down but intermittently and verrry slowly. LL

That's the power steering pump belt (assuming your pix is upside down). LL

Most likely the wiring harness for the knock sensors wasn't replaced. This is usually the main reason for knock sensor codes. The harness sits under the intake plenum in the valley between the two heads and tends to cook easily. This would explain the codes coming back. LL

you found the right connection diagram, congratulations. the link to club lexus shows a much later model lexus w/ the cd player in the glove box he's doing exactly what I did using the radio shack female jack. i placed mine in the little plastic plug in the console next to the e brake. you have to tap into the radio to amp lines right front and left front, the jack will only accomodate two channels, the radio uses 4, so i just shift the input from my phone/mp3 player into those amp inputs cutting off the input from the radio. then all ya have to do is shift speakers to the front. it'll only work when the radio is turned on as this activates the amp, and the only volume adjustment is with your phone or player, but overall, it's a great fix for $5 w/ a few hours of time. if found the hardest part was soldering the wires to the little leads on the jack. LL

No rca imputs on that amp. You can cut the wires and put in rca females. I have a wiring diagram somewhere, in a digital fsm, but there's no index and finding it is like looking for a needle. However, you can probably google the schematic. I'll keep looking... but you could also just back probe the connector w/ a small speaker until you find each chanel while playing the original radio. I believe the inputs are in the connector closest to the passenger side door. LL

Great going. Thanks for the thread. And some of us do listen... LL

can't find the spec in the haynes. my guess from the diagrams it's 17 mm, get the machine shop that's going to press in the new bearing to take it off and torque it back on. don't try to do that yourself. you may be able to get a bearing hub assembly for not too much, as it is w/ another toyota I have LL

I'm just guessing, but it may be that the intermittant signal is the good one, and the steady signal is the malfunctioning one..... Try a junk yard for a computer. I replaced mine about a year ago, new $700, ebay was $80 (not guaranteed) to $180 (guaranteed). There are even a few companies that refurb ECMs, but they're up around 2 bills. Got one at the yard for $25 and $2 for a warranty. Just make sure you got the right one by checking serial #s, as several different ones were used for each year. Your idea to clean and reseat contacts is good and fairly easy, and you'll need to get it exposed anyway to get the SN. As always, I try to to the least expensive things first. In this case would wonder about swapping the ocv's (if they are swappable) to see if the problem shifts sides. If it does you have your solution, if not, you have to look more centrally for your problem (wiring or ECM) LL

I agree to some degree. This is not an easy job, and daunting to those folks w/ even moderately good auto mechanic skills. That warning said, you'll need a lot of time, patience and a lot of tools. What makes changing the spark plugs difficult on these v-6 engines, is that the rear bank is underneath the intake system, which has to be removed down to the intake manifold, much of this requires working between the rear bank and the firewall where there is only an inch or two of free space. The first time I did this it took 5+ hours just to take it apart, and I broke a few fasteners on the way in, including plastic/connectors on the coil packs. Aside from a full set of 3/8ths and 1/2 inch drive sockets (regular and deep, including 8mm, 10 mm, 12 mm and 14 mm), you'll need a torx set (for a few strange bolts on the plenum), socket extensions, and a lot of liquid wrench or similar penetrant (I use a 50/50 mix of acetone and atf, works better than anything). You should also take pictures of everything before and during the process, as there are about 10-15 hose connections, 10-15 wire connectors that get confusing if you don't document them going in. Lastly you'd benefit from a magnetic spark plug socket, as the plugs rest at the bottom of 4-5 inch tubes and it's difficult to pick them up w/ needle nose in the rear bank as the tubes are oriented at a 45 degree angle to the perpendicular. I don't know what a professional would charge for this but it is labor intensive. Using iridium plugs that last 100k is a good investment as you don't want to do this often. LL Good luck.

I worked on this for quite a while. I felt using a cassette adapter was the simplist and probably the best solution, but adapter won't stay in the deck, the machine senses it's not a real tape and kicks it out. FM modulators suck, the wireless ones suck more than the wired in ones. I took apart the head to see if there was a place I could tap in a line, but had no luck just poking around, and had no schematics of the head to work w/. I've seen OEM heads on ebay w/ the adapter in them, put in by the seller, but not sure how he does it. I finally tapped into the right and left front feeds into the amp under the passenger seat and ran that to a phono connector (radio shack) placed in the console, switching off the inputs from the radio and substituting inputs from the jack, only when the ipod is plugged in. Looks almost professional, just have to shut out the rear speakers, and the only volume control is in your external player. Good luck. LL

I've been puzzled by this code for a few years now. As I've looked at the trouble shooting guide in the fsm, and thought about it a lot, the long and short of it is, I've decided just to live w/ it. I've not spent as much money as you, but have put in a fair bit of time. It first occurred after I had replaced head gaskets. I put in a new o2 sensor (I've a '94), replaced the rear valve cover gasket, and have even tried a different maf sensor. I replaced the egr recirculation pipe which got damaged when I did the head gaskets, but this didn't "staunch" the flow of too much air getting into bank one which is what I believe is the problem. That code is triggered by the bank one o2 sensor which is reading too much oxygen at that point (the bank one exhaust manifold). This can be measured dynamically, as a mostly negative "fuel trim" if you have a scan guage. As I understand it, the excess air might be coming from a leak in the exhaust manifold, or any where further upstream, all the way to the end of the air intake snorkle. I've never understood how a leak on the intake side of the throttle body would only show up as a too lean on only one bank, but I guess it could. I've tightened down every bolt where a leak could possibly occur, such as the intake manifold, valve cover, plenum, egr system, and probably a few others. I've examined all components of the intake system for cracks, where air could leak in but nothing has been observed. I've never had a performance problem, and get decent mpgz, 24 around town and 29 on the hwy. I decided the seriousness of this problem did't warrant further time or money and decided to wait until it became more of an actual problem, which it hasn't for over a year. From time to time I check codes w/ my scanner, as the CEL is on all the time. That can easily be fixed w/ a piece of electrical tape if it bothers you. LL

I find the coincidence of this happening after the expansion valve was replaced, suggests a causal relationship. One possibility is that whoever did the job, didn't wrap up the expansion valve in it's foam encasement, leading to condensation along the valve and dripping downward and backward. Doesn't explain the dry front wheel well, but does explain why it happens on a long trip. But coincidence doesn't necessarily lead to causality. Still the best explanation, rain or not, is that the sunroof drains are blocked and there is overflow into the back seat. This has happened to me a few times when I park the car on a slight grade with the passenger side lower than the driver's side, and then it rains. When I accelerate, there's a whoose of water which eventually ends up in the right rear wheel well. LL

if bridgestone says 50 then go for it, the higher the tire pressure the better the milage. I was running some chinese tires at that pressure and I did get 30 mpg on the highway going 55-60, but then one of the tires had a belt separation, so I'm back to 38-40 lbs. FWIW, that belt problem was a real stumper. At first I thought it was out of alignment, as it was pulling hard to the right, like overnight. After an alignment, no improvement. After moving tires around, getting balancing, etc, finally discovered the tire problem. Off the car, the tire/wheel would roll dramatically to the right and fall over after 10 feet. Replaced that tire and all was good. Synthetic oil is always better, unless you have some oil leakage from a seal or gasket, then it will become worse, as the synth becomes much thinner at temp eventhough it keeps it's lubrication capacity. The money issue is a wash as you can go 4 x's longer between oil changes. LL