lexis lexus

Need more info. Miles? Check engine light? Losing oil? Any other symptoms?

My advice would be to pick up a Haynes for the Camry of that vintage, could probably get one on ebay or amazon for 15-20$. It'll give you a step by step on how to get down to the valve covers. Basically you have to take off the throttle body and plenum, probably don't have to take off the intake manifold if you're only going for the valve covers. While your there might as well replace the spark plugs if you're near 100K. And if your really motivated it would be an opportune time to replace the timing belt. You may also want to inspect the head gaskets, these can leak too. LL

different size will mess up your abs, which is usually calibrated to one specific diameter

This is not as easy as it "sounds" (sorry). I'm most familiar w/ the '94-'96 years. Not too difficult to get a double to single din insert for 10-15$ (ebay). Pulling out the head not too difficult, have to remove the shift wood panel gently, then screws at base of ashtray, remove that, then pop out the mid dash air vents (carefully) to reveal the screws (2 up, 2 below) holding the head in place. Now, the difficulties begin as the wiring goes from the head to an amp (under pass seat?), and you'll prolly want to bypass that, best to run new wires from the new radio to the speakers, that is if the unit is self contained (receiver/player/amp). Most modern units are quite beefy compared to the anemic amp of the '94, not sure about the system used in your's. LL

AF sensor is different than the o2 sensor. Using different technology to do the same thing, i.e. measure 02 content of the exhaust gas. toyota/lexus switched over in '98. Generally, I think of these things like expensive spark plugs, as they wear out and need to be replaced every 100k or so. You may want to try looking on Rock Auto, and I've heard some folx have bought them on amazon. LL

I bet you its that micky ficky hydralic ac condensor fan that's not working. Look at the engine as it warms up w/ the AC on full blast on a warm day. I bet you don't see the fan working and when it gets too hot the system just cuts it off as a failsafe. The other problem you may have is the compressor itself which as it's failing gets too hot and then the system cuts off. Lastly it could be a bad expansion valve located up under the dash about 2 hours of work away. These are the 3 key components of the AC system likely to fail, any malfunction prevents the coolant from being cooled and then.... it turns off. LL

The first thing ya have to do is pull the codes for the cel (check eng light). Easily done by going into an autozone or another autoparts place that pull these codes for free. Once you have a code then you know what component of the engine mgt system is malfunctioning and/or where to look for your problems. Abs light might be connected, but it has its own diagnostics and require a toyota or lexus machine to read that. My guess just based on your symptom is a misfire or o2 problem, but I wouldn't bank on that as its just a guess. In general the cel only indicates malfunction in non critical aspects of engine management, but sometimes when a code is set, the computer regresses to a fall back mode, which then makes running difficult. Altho a short can sometimes set a code, and cause probs like yours, I wouldn't think this was a problem. Let us know what happens. LL

I can't help ya on this one. I spent 2 hrs in a yanker yard several months ago trying to losen that bolt up and finally gave up. The FSM suggests a special tool for it which seems to be a modified socket. After I decided to give up I came to the conclusion that it would need to ripped out w/ the hose intact and put in a bench vise or taken to a machine shop. LL

That's the power steering pump in the pix. So you could have a leak from there, or anywhere up above it, including the head gasket or the valve cover gasket. So is oil level going down? is power steering level going down? The answer to these two questions will guide your interventions. If its oil, then there's a good likelihood it's the head gasket vrs the valve cover gasket. If it is the former, you may be having problems overheating, and may be able to see oil in the water (open the rad cap when cold and look) or water in the oil (look at the inside of the oil fill cap and if there is foamy white stuff, that's water). Best way to make a visual id of the leak, is to put it up on a lift and poke up there w/ a good light. Good luck. LL

your hvac system is controlled by computer, not sure if it's the main ecm or if there is a computer built into the dash control module. there is a way to access diagnostics on that system, but it'll be in the factory service manual, not in a haynes. if you can find it, it's pretty easy (at least on my '94) and the diagnostic run will tell you what parts of the system aren't working, could be a relay, could be the dash control unit, could be any one of a dozen components the system that the diagnostic checks might want to take it in to toyota or lexus but then it'll be expensive. another option is to pull a heat/ac dash control out of a wrecker yard (on the assumption that that's what's malfunctioning) and replace the one you have. Let us know the outcome. LL

Bank one is near the firewall. Sensor 1 is on the exhaust manifold, somewhat difficult to get to but not too hard once you visualize it. Several possibilities here. -you got a bad replacement sensor -the wiring from the connection back to the car's computer is bad -you may have an exhaust leak near the sensor, possibly caused by a cracked manifold, leaking donut gasket at the junction of the manifold and y-pipe (anything that leads to a flat line reading from the o2 sensor will cause the code, and too much o2 getting to the sensor will do that) If that all checks out, try using obd II software if you have a computer connection to the obdII connector behind the fuse box panel by the driver's left knee, to see how the output from the o2 sensor looks. If you don't have the computer set up, try a volt meter on the wires coming from the o2 sensor (not exactly which ones, as one pair is for the heating element in the sensor, the other two are for the o2 measures). The voltage in either measuring situation should bouce up and down rather quickly, 7-10 x per minute if my memory serves me right. If its too sluggish the computer will throw a code. LL

I've a '94 w/out drl, but have you tried lifting the ebrake up one notch? Rarely puts any drag on the pads, but does turn off the drls. easy if it works. let us know. LL

I'd start w/ the battery, LL

sounds like you know what your doing. would be able to see if the dreaded oil sludge build up is one of your probs, once you pull off the valve cover gaskets. while you're down that far, swapping in new plugs and doing the timing belt makes sense w/ 140 k, particularly if you don't have any history on the car. not sure why you want to do new valve stem seals. usually if you're blowing oil up through them, you can diagnose this prob by running the car down a hill w/ your foot off the gas, and then at the bottom, hit the accelerator hard, will cause a cloud to blow out the exhaust. can't recall why, but it has to do w/ quick shift in vacuum. I once replaced valve stem seals on another car (suzuki) w/out pulling the head, by using a "rope trick." rotate until the cylinder is at its lowest point, then feed a rope down into the cylinder until it seems filled up, then rotate the crank a bit to compress the rope and push valves upward. this will allow you to pluck the seals up and off w/out the valves falling down into the cylinder. Never did the seals on one of the v6's, not sure how easy it is to get them off. LL

bank 1, sensor 1 is the 02 sensor located on the rearward exhaust manifold. difficult to get to but not impossible once you take the air filter box off. long open end wrench, not sure of the size. the connector is just below the throttle body. look at the connector for the front one to get the hang of how it opens. once you get your bearings, it takes about 10 minutes. Good luck. LL

He prollly forgot to snap back one of the 30 or so connections or hoses, any of which might cause your problem. There's several on the throttle body, many on the intake emission rail, not to mention the fuel injectors, and spark plug connections. See if you can spot the loose hose or connector, or take it back tothe mech and ask him what happened. LL

i'm curious too. I need to replace a lot of bulbs in my radio cluster. I believe they are 8 v but haven't been able to find any led's for this voltage. are the speedo cluster bulbs the same? LL

Peter, Your description of rpms going up but not mph suggests a bad torque converter. If this is the case, then it should be worse going up a hill. Are you getting a check engine light? Another thought is, switched out of sport mode? LL

seems to me the simplist explanation is a bad battery. it should not drain much, if at all. go to autozone or another car parts place and get it tested, they usually do it for free. if batt is ok, then you've got something draining it when car is off. depends how much you want to get into checking circuits ... LL

might also be a head gasket. any foamy residue on the inside of the oil cap? what does the oil on the dip stick look like? has it ever overheated (often misattributed to low coolant? LL

You have discovered a fusible link! Congrats. You can't just pull it w/out destroying it cause the tongs are bolted in. Have to find your way to those bolts. Go out and buy one from an auto store and you'll see the anatomy. Good luck. LL

Have you cleared the codes, might be old? I assume whoever did the sensors much have disconnected the battery. Did you check the wiring from the connector below cyl 5 back to the ECM? If this is bad, replacing the sensors won't make a difference. And of course, the ECM may be bad as well. LL

ecm is located under the glove compartment, not too difficult to get there. The real problem is finding a replacement. I believe, the ecm draws a small electrical current from the (main car) battery, as it will maintain trip meter data, codes etc. Disconnecting that battery clears the codes and trip meter data. You have to get the ECM out, snap a pix of the lable w/ the numbers, then start looking for replacement, new about $700, yanker yard $25, ebay around $100-$200, and you can get yours refurbed via several on line sites for about $150. I have an old one from my '94 that had another problem and may have a good battery in it, and one I picked up at a junk yard, but they may not be a match. Let me know. Not sure if this prob will cause your other difficulties, but fix it anyway and see. LL

the biggest factor in milage is the nut behind the steering wheel LL

Should fit, double DIN is the size standard, but make sure you can return for full refund, cause these products from China are dicey sometimes. You will prolly need to buy a wire adapter too. LL