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  1. hi mike, really sounds like a bearing has let go, i think you are correct as it sounds like a big end bearing, either way you have to pull the motor and to be honest for the cost of a jap used motor which are generally pretty low milage and fitting i think its a lot better option than messing around with a conrod bearing, the bearing sounds bad enough that it has probably damaged the crankshaft so it would need to have the crankshaft pulled out and then regrind the journal,this would cost you a fair bit so i reckon all up the used jap motor would be a better option, reliability wise and cost wise,. how long have you had the car, i have had mine for about 6 months, one owner but in fantastic condition, they drive superb dont they. cheers fergi Bearing gone: Bearing has disappeared !! (almost) and there is 5-10mm pf play in the con rod where it connects to the crankshaft. There is soft sludgy metal in the bottom of the sump (I assume the disintegrated bronze or other soft metal bearing shell) but there are not chunks or solid metal pieces I know best practice would probably be a crank shaft regrind etc - But the engine has 300,000Km on it so I was thinking of using a very fine wet n dry paper to clean what I can off the crankshaft and put new bearing shells on it and clean up and hope for the best .. I know it might not be the smoothest engine after this but at least it will run and as I said before the car isn't worth more than 2-3K Bear in mind this engine has done 300,000KM (200,000 miles plus) so I really don't want to go to the effort of pulling it out - If I get anothe 20,000 out of it I'll be happy. There seems to be a reference in the manual to some sort of over sizing on the bearing - It says mark 1 mark 2 and mark 3 - What does this refer to - There is a number 2 stamped on the con rod cap .?
  2. I am in Sydney (north West Sydney to be exact) The problem is the car is only worth 2.5K so I need to try a few things myself - Because pretty much everyone is going to say "Yeah Mate needs a new motor - $1800-$2500 bucks fitted" !!!! And the car just inst worth that much It sounds like "rod knock" - ie the bottom end But that sounds like the whole motor needs to come out and once you've done that you are up for 10-20 hours labour (and no one in Sydney seems to work for less that $90 per hour!!!) then the cost of a used egine - say $800 - Youch !!!! :cries: I am looking for things I can try myself before I make a call on "scrap value" or "repair" Cheers Mike
  3. Does anyone know what this is ?? It started as little rattle then developed into horrendous noise oil light came on and the expansion bottle spewed the coolant back out. Seems to be coming from inside the block Should I try to pull it apart or just drop another engine in - Is this doable (with engine crane hire) by a DIY mechanic? Is it true the Toyota Camry engine exactly the same (it looks it from what I have seen) - Except ? Thanks :cries:
  4. OK I managed to read the diag codes - 63 which says Solenoid 2, Short open loom to solenoid or ECM On reading the manual further it seems to suggest that sticking solenoids wont actully cause this code and its only a short or open circuit that will cause this.. I checked continuity from the loom to the connection on the SCU all leads (blue/yellow pink/yellow and purple check out OK So I am thinking this is an ECM problem?? <_< Onto the suspect head gasket issue.. It looks lie it is head gasket... I have milk in my expansion bottle. I took the suggestion on disconnecting the HT leads on the distributor cap and take it for a drive.. Here's the findings with the following lead disconnected: 1: Drives better (still misfires) more power 2: About the same (still misfires) 3: Drives a bit worse 4: Drives much worse 5: Drives better (still misfires) 6: Drives much worse My conclusion - Cylinders 4 and 6 are good (cyl 2 is inconclusive) Cyl 1 and 5 are bad Conclusion - the rear bank is shot (I believe 1, 3 and 5 are all in the rear bank..) Bugger - that's a big job... :cries: :cries: :cries: Has anyone had any success with any of the magic gasket sealing compounds ???
  5. I pulled off leads one by on but could not find any difference in ay of them ... weird BTW what OBD1 and OBD 2 mean ? Is that some kind=d of reference standard for diagnostic equipment ??
  6. Can I get the codes myself? Or do I need to take it to someone who has some sort of code reader (if so is the same codes as the Camry - ie my local mechanic can read them, or do I need to take it to someone who has Lexus equipment)
  7. Please help.. I think I bought a lemon… I bought a Lexus ES300 1993 (ok it was cheap) but it has some major issues… I was told it was overheating and I read all the stuff about head gaskets etc.. So the guy said he took to his mechanic and showed me pressure and gas test was all OK and that it over heated only on hills and at motorway speeds I had been reading the forums and eliminated fans and was confident he was telling the truth about the head gasket. I also notice it was slow on pickup and didn’t seem to change gears very easily and the O/D light just flashed – he told me the car had done that since he had had it and so he drove it with OD off (more on this later) I had a ten minute test drive (around 80 kph – 50 mph) and everything was fine temp stayed within range. Unfortunately I believed this guy on both counts and bought the car (because it was cheap..) The car drove home fine except when hills cam or if I went over 110kph – 70 mph the temp started going up – I made it home (about 1 ½ hr drive) but just had to take things steady on the hills. A couple of time water did spray from under the bonnet in the area of the expansion bottle but even then the temp never went over ¾’s on the gauge – It was hot but not what I would call over heating.. Got home - OK I thought … quick drain and refill and flush then replace radiator caps and thermostat and all will be fine. .I drained the system (or so I thought – by unclipping the bottom radiator hose (did not have a manual at the time.. So I didn’t know about engine drain !Removed! –which BTW I still cant find ???) I was surprised that only 3L (3 quarts) of coolant came out of the car !! Also the expansion bottle had a crack in it which seemed to be the cause of the water spray.. I bought a new coolant cap (rear) as there seemed to be dried water (white deposits) and dried rust around that area… Now to check the transmission I noticed the transmission fluid was brown (that’s wrong I thought) and it was way over filled – Wow that’s a cheap fix for the transmission problem (or so I thought) – So drained and refilled with a ATF called Nulon which states as being replacement for cars that need dextronII. That problem didn’t go away either :cries: I put in some radiator cleaner and drove to work the next day hoping that good flush with the cleaner would work wonders … Transmission playing up still – but drivable if I pulled away in L then manually shifted to D – bit of reading on the forum leads me to suspect the solenoids or speed sensor – OK find them and flush them I thought … Hhmm this is just getting worse isn’t it… :cries: Yep … Next time I start the car its misfiring (like it’s running on 5 cylinders .. pulled every plug lead of distributor one by one and it is still misfiring badly and not one of them seems to be the cause … Could all these symptoms be one thing – like some sort of computer malfunction ? There is no whiter smoke – so maybe it isn’t the head gasket ?? (he says hopefully..) :cries: Pulled every spark plug out I could get too (fortunately I have small hands and could get to all but one ) – no water on any of the plugs …. Ran all with the – plugs out and no water came spluttering out of the spark plug holes I’d like to get the thing at least firing on all cylinders then I can drive it to get the transmission code read so I can decide whether I pursue this or just cut my losses and sell at the auction as is for $300 ??? Any guidance assure you a place in heaven (but no money unfortunately ) :) Thanks heaps guys Michael
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