lexis lexus

Omee, Interesting problem. I think the mech is right, no way to "lube" the cv joints, you can buy rebuild kits, but it's better and almost the same price to just replace them w/ rebuilt ones from a factory, prolly somewhere in the 3rd world. When these go, you usually hear some clicking when the steering it at the extreme. The symptom suggests an hydralic problem (pump, rack) vrs mechanical. Steering is ok until you have to pump some fluid (by turning the wheel) then it gets hard. Tends to happen when cold, after the fluid warms up, it moves easier. I think replacing the pump is not as difficult as doing a rack. Might be a good idea to get it up in the air running to see if the problem can be "observed". (free diagnostic check?). Ball joints don't seem to me to be a likely cause. But while you've got it up that can be checked by inspection for play. Not sure how the wet weather fits in. Coincidence? I know that there is a connector to the power steering pump that is fairly close to the road, but not sure how water could create this kind of problem. W/ electrical probs its either connected (working) or not. LL

it's likely one or both of the pads aren't seated right. you could have the pads on reversed, inside on the out. they look identical but may not be. Don't ask me how I know this. LL

lenore, none of those codes indicate the maf sensor or a prob in the evaporative gas system, so why should he clean the maf sensor or replace the gas cap? the codes point to a bad af sensor on bank 1 (next to the firewall) LL

BB, Sorry for your code mess. Firstly, these like the vast majority of codes, indicate problems in the emissions control system and are rarely dangerous. The first one indicates low coolant temp, not sure what that means, the 130/135/171 array I'm familiar with and relates to the rear oxygen or air fuel sensor (o2 was changed to af sensor around 99 or '00, and it's the one between the engine and firewall), probably a failure of the sensor leading to lean condition on that bank of cylinders (0171). Trac off is common w/ these types of codes, but I never heard a good explanation as to why. You can spend from $50-200 for an AF sensor, and unless your a good wrencher, it's difficult to get to. not sure what the 1354 is, can't find it in the list of dtc's, are the numbers right? BTW, what did AZ try to sell you based on those codes? LL

I agree, check the level. If this is correct and problem still occurs, suggest changing the transmission fluid (cold "old" atf thicker than cold "new"). If this doesn't work, consider swapping in a new coolant temp sensor (about $20, 5 minutes). After these, other solutions prolly become more difficult/expensive. LL

after balancing and alignment, if still there, consider a out of true wheel try switching front to rear on one side, and see if this changes the vibration, then do the other side, etc. LL

Spraying wd 40 tends to seal a vacuum leak temporarily. I once soaked the strange gasket inside the idle air control valve in wd 40 and it swelled up to twice its size! A day later it had shrunk back to original. Your are right, that the ecm does control the idle. So either ecm is getting bad info leading it to reduce idle rpms Inappropriately, leading to stall, OR the ECM can't adjust the idle because the cable is too slack. Tightening up the throttle cable a few turns, might just work. It's really easy and costs nothing. If it doesn't work, you haven't lost anything, and if it does.... One rule of thumb I always follow when trying to troubleshoot a difficult problem like this is to do things that are cheap and easy first, moving onto harder and more expensive things once the simple stuff has been tried. LL

First things first. (w/ an assist from Haynes) Have you tried to increase the idle speed by adjusting the trottle cable? You may want to replace the fuel filter, again, cheap fix. Damp or damaged distro components? Faulty emissions valve (s) (there are like 4 of them on the emissions rail on my '94, this includes checking out the egr,which if stuck open could cause it to stall) Faulty spark plug cables (what brand did you use last year?) Vacuum leak -- intake manifold, fuel injectors, vacuum hoses (spray her down w/ wd 40 and see if the stalling stops for a while. Valve clearances off? AC idle up failure? (does this happen w/ AC on and off?) And of course last, pull the plugs and check for abnormal residue, then check the compression (if all else cks out ok). LL Not sure air flow meter malfunction would cause stalling at idle. How can you tell if it hasn't thrown a code? Is the cel actually working? I'd wonder about compression as well, given it's at 170k mi.

Hiya, Well, I had been puzzling over the lack of overdrive, did all the routine things, replaced the coolant temp sensor, replaced atf. Took it to the transmission shop and they thought it was electrical. Took it to the elec guy, and he thought it was a bad computer. Cost of the specific ecm was >$500 new, at $150-190 on ebay (used), and I could get it refurbed for about the same. I decided to wait and see if one showed up at a salvage yard in the area. Today my prayers -- such as they were -- were answered. I discovered a pullapart nearby had just dropped a 94 es 300 on their lot yesterday. So I ran over to pull out the ECM, believing that it prolly wouldn't be the right one (there were maybe 3 or 4 different ones for that year). But as I pulled it out I saw the sn matched and I whooped, scaring the guys working on a car nearby. Not only did the ecm match, but so did the trim code (a rare lg 095, darkbrown/mauve seats), and I was able to get the rear seat upright, in nearly new condition to replace the one I had which had a bad case of leprosy on the top -- this was icing on the cake!! So next, I ran home and installed the new/used ECM (and the seat). Took it out and OVERDRIVE WAS THERE! Now able to cruise at 70 mpg barely topping 2500 rpm, and when I take my foot off the accel at 40 mph the rpms drop to 1000! Amazing. I'm gonna drive it around some now, see what kind of mpgeez I'm getting. Later, LL

not sure about the '02 es, but earlier models have an AC idle up valve on the throttle body that senses when the ac is on and pushes idle up. if this is bad, tends to run roughly at idle w/ the ac on. but you mention normal idle for you is 500 rpm, and this seems a bit low, and that may be part of your problem as well. lets hear from some 02 gen es peeps, since I'm most familiar with the 94-96 mark LL

lenore, I suggest we agree to disagree about the o2 sensors. I try to work logically, not just replace things willy nilly. I also don't just "believe" that denso is better than any other. I always like to have some real proof that it is worth spending twice as much for a given product before doing so. Regarding the plenum, you mentioned replacing the gaskets (plural). Do you mean the intake gaskets? I've thought about doing that as well. As for the fuel filter, it is up front for this version of the 1mzfe. Easier to replace out in the open. I have a Calif version of the 94 es, and it has two "flex" pipes (they're actually the most unflexible pipes I've ever tried to work with...), both of which have been tightened down as much as safely possible, and visual inspection from underneath w/ mirror shows good contact/mating. No current exhaust noise. And I agree, have never heard of ECM going bad, but the elec guy did indicate this happens, more often than one would expect for a solid state device. But what do you think about just running with a 0171, will it do any harm? LL

Steelfan, Thanks for the feedback, your like the only one who has responded! I did think about the aftermarket o2 sensors, but they seem to porpoise nicely, and I'm convinced that they're all made in China anyhow. I've used similarly inexpensive ones on some of my other cars with good results. The "belief" that one should only use lexus/toyota parts is a bunch of hogwash desiged to enrich further one of the richest car companies in the world. Furthermore, I think it is highly improbable that 1) both sensors wouldn't be equally good/bad (rear bank only code), and 2)the fuel trim action on my computer would remain exactly as the replaced (old) sensors. I haven't done much since my last post on this problem, but since the car is running quite nicely, I'm thinking I might just live with the system lean code (black electrical tape over the light?) I read somewhere this may even enhance my mpgeez. I've shifted my focus to the fact that I have no overdrive (except about 2% of the time), desipte no dash light to indicate such a malfunction (od off light comes on when I hit the button...) I took it to a trans shop and they felt it was electrical. I took it to the elec guy who thought there was an 80% likelihood its a bad ECM. He didn't want to replace it as he didn't want to eat the cost of a new one in case that wasn't the problem. Neither shop charged me for this diagnostic work :) So now I'm looking for an ECM, thinking a used one vrs refurb. Decided to wait to see if one came up on ebay or at the local picker yard for a reasonable price. Need an 899661-33340 incase anyone has one ('94). Turns out there were several ECM's for that year. I'm kicking myself as last fall I had my hands on the exact one at the upullit, woulda cost me $30 but I didn't think I had a need for one at that time. That es was crushed after Xmas (along with the ECM). Hindsight is 20/20! I'm thinking that my 0171 code might be a manifestation of a bad computer as well. Number 9 in the list way up above. Time and a replacement ECM will tell. LL

Hi, Sounds like you should replace rear struts, unless you want it to be a higher than usual ride, then I'm useless. I'm not exactly sure how the tach gets signals but I bet it's from the computer. May just be a bad wire or connector. The other prob may be that you need a new tach, and I'd get a used cluster from the yanker yard, once you check on the line continuity. Plastic clips can be had at a yanker yard too, or most auto stores and hardware stores carry many different types of clips. LL

With a car that's 16 yrs old, w/ retail/wholesale value dropping into the 3k range, you need to consider how much to spend. 90 k miles is low so you may want to invest to keep it running another 100k. All this fear mongering about the timing belt is suspect. The 1mzfe is a non interference engine, which means the valves are in line with the pistons, so if the belt breaks, you may require a tow, but no engine damage occurs. This said, you could drive it for a long time before the belt might break. If you're good at wrenching, a timing belt wouldn't take too much in terms of money, but would require several hours and a good haynes manual. Some would argue that changing out the water pump should also be done while your doing the timing belt, but I'm an adherent to the school of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" Remember the more you wrench on a car this old, the more likely you are to break a bolt requiring major engine/machine shop repair (don't ask me how I know that...). So, I wouldn't do the timing belt at 90 k. What I would do is go by autozone and get a read on your check engine light (free) which should tell you if something important needs to be taken care of (usually not unless the cel is blinking). I would get the airbag light looked into, prolly a toyota dealer could diagnose that for less than $100, and become informed as to whether the airbag is working and how much this might cost to repair. Then inspect all hoses and belts, (including the timing belt if you want), steering and drive shaft linkages, drain and fill the transmission and differential fluid, check your brakes, then enjoy the ride, waiting until something becomes a problem. LL

If it's mis firing on bank one, you have to look there. The wiring is a possibility, as it's flimsy going into the ingitors above each plug. Fuel injectors may also be bad or dirty. While your in there might as well pull the plugs and examine them for signs of bad valves or rings. Lastly do a compression check. All this checking will require taking off the intake side, down to the intake manifold (about 4-5 hours if you've never done it.) You could try adding techron to the gas for a few tanks, based on theory that it's the injectors. LL

Hi all, Posted earlier, my 94 es300 doesn't go into overdrive -- except rarely. od off light doesn't come on. Took it to tranny shop, they felt it was electrical. Electrical guy says he's 80% sure it's the ECM. Now I'm looking for one. New they are >$500, so I'm looking used, but no 94's in my favorite yanker yards right now. If anyone has one let me know. LL

ml, bear in mind, my experience is w/ the '94 es, maybe some others w/ newer ones can chime in. but in response to your ?'s: 1. I would also like to drain the differential - any reason why you filled in the fluid with a hose directly and not through the dipstick opening? I thought the transmission fluid is one circuit and not broken up - am I wrong? >> per my Haynes, they are actually two separate systems, thus having to drain both, fill both via different access, the AT via the dip stick, and the diff via it's own fill hole. 2. I read that it is also recommended to drain the fluids, then turn on the engine, go through all gears a few times, then turn off to get more fluid out. Also read that some add t-fluid into a funnel, then run through the procedure until clear red fluid comes out, then turn off the engine. Same prcudre is also done when the car is filled back up. >>Dunno about these "procedures" sounds a bit risky to run the AT w/out any fluid. Believe me, the ATF was very thin when it came out, can't understand how there could be more. Altho if memory serves me right, if there is a torque converter, it is also filled w/ fluid. I found a reference in a FSM on cdrom (for a '93) indicating a drain and fill would require 3.something qts, and a dry fill would require 6.something qts, so maybe you're right to think about further draining. No mentino of this in the Haynes. Regarding the run through, would end up costing a bit in additional ATF wouldn't it? 3. So the only way to really get out all fluid would be to do a mechainc flush, a procedure Lexus does not recommend? >> Not sure what Lexus recommends. 4. I purchased Valvoline MaxLife Universal ATF Dexron III Mercon - good choice? Or does it have to be Toyota Type IV? >> Again due to the year difference, would check in your owner's manual which should give you the specs. I got dextron II. Good luck. LL

I just did my '94 es today. Fairly straight forward using Haynes as a guide. Fairly messy job, lots of hot fluid spattering, so wear protective glasses, have a big oil catcher. Got a gasket/filter kit from advance auto for $15.00. I don't know if the '00 tranny is the same or not but maybe this description will help. First I drained (hot) ATF by pulling the drain plug w/ 10 mm hex wrench. Then removed the seventeen 10 mm pan bolts, it's good to leave a few in the front bolted in but loose, the remove the rest, then pry the rear edge of the pan, leading to another shower of hot ATF but in the rearward direction. Remove pan, take a pix of the magnet placements, then clean the pan w/ a solvent (I used some carb cleaner). Scrape old gasket (OEM I think was cork, aftermarket rubber). Remove 3 10 mm bolts holding on the filter/strainer -- again more ATF shower. Haynes said you could clean it w/ fresh ATF, but I just replaced it w/ new one, bolting it back in w/ the 3 10 mm bolts just taken out. To return the pan, put two 10 mm pan bolts thru holes on opposite corners of the pan thru the new gasket and ratchet them in loosely, careful not to cross thread. Once those 2 are in, then put in the other 15, again being careful not to cross thread or torque so tight as to break them. Haynes calls for 4 ft/lbs of torque, which is close hand tightenig. Once on, fill w/ 3.7 qts of ATF, thru the dipstick tube. I also did the differential, which was tricky, as the 10 mm hex socket I had was a bit long and it was difficult getting a ratchet on w/out banging up against frame (or was it rack?). Another splash of ATF when I got it out. Bolt drain plug back in (also w/ linear difficulties). Have to get way under the diff it to find the 17 mm fill bolt/hole which is facing the driver's side wheel. Can't miss it as it's the only one that size on the diff. Cut a peice of hose (I used an old washing machine water hose), stick a funnel in one end and drop the other end from the open engine bay. Back under the car, stick the hose in the fill hole and drop .9 quart New ATF in. Replace the 17 mm fill hole bolt. And your done. LL

Today I took off the plenum and pulled off the wiring harness, then climbed on top of the rear head and was able to get a socket on the bottom two manifold bolts. They needed a bit of tightening. While I'd gotten down that far, I took off the timing belt cover and rechecked the timing marks -- they were perfect. Put it all back, but didn't attach the stays until after I'd torqued down the plenum, reusing the gasket. I'd thougth about using rtv but decided not to try that just yet. I managed to break the spark plug coil connector on #6, so if anyone has one of these just lying around let me know. Napa doesn't carry them, so I'm gonna check w/ toyota tomorrow. I was able to connect the leads by hand and the car started ran fine. But the fuel trim is still way off (system too lean), so I guess the exhaust leak etiology is unlikely now. I may take it into midas and have them "check" it out. So my next step is to rtv down the plenum to eliminate the possibility that air is leaking in by that route. I think I'll replace the fuel filter and try to get a measure of fuel pressure somehow. Questions now: 1) could there be an injector that's not working well even though the engine runs smooth? 2) does anyone have a spark plug coil connector? 3) has anyone run w/ a system too lean CEL long term? cause any problems? LL

Well, it's not the o2 sensors. Got them by mail today, popped them in and there was no signficant change in the fuel trims. The sensors did bounce less sluggishly and will prolly be good for the future. Now I'm left with trying to find out why I'm still getting an 0171 code, too lean bank 1. I'm now left to explore items 2 and 6 above, exhaust leak, low fuel pressure. And I'm still wondering about an intake leak as well. I pulled off the plenum today -- with the goal of getting down behind bank 1 to try to tighten up the two lower passenger side exhaust manifold bolts which I suspect need to be tightened and may be the source of my exhaust gas leak. May get to them tomorrow. I noticed there was some oil on the plenum intake gasket and can't figure out how it got there. I don't believe oil has any reason to being up in the intake manifold. The only place it could come from would be the cylinders and that would mean serious probs. But I pulled the plugs and they look very healthy, not losing/burning any oil. I am concerned that when I've installed the plenum (several x's now), that I have to leave the bolts and nuts to the intake manifold loose until I put the bolts for the rear stays into the back of the plenum. Maybe I'll just leave the stays not bolted and tighten down the plenum well. Also thinking of putting on some rtv on the gasket to make it a tighter seal. I thought about trying to measure fuel pressure but you need a special toyota adaptor, to attach to the top of the fuel filter. Haynes suggest making one with a 12 mm bolt, but that looks like it needs a machine shop. May try to snag a banjo bolt and line from a junk yard... I've not heard from anyone about this topic ... ignored? Or maybe there are no answers to the secret of life or 171 codes. It does help to write about it as it organizes my thinking a bit. LL

Knock sensor isn't a disabling condition, but when it's out, the computer does things to prevent knocking, like enriching the fuel mix, advancing the timing, and sometimes turn off overdrive; overall reduces effiency. Usually the problem is the wiring harness, but in my case, both knock sensors were toasted as well when I got to them. LL

Go to autozone and get them to pull the code, or let your mechanic do it for a charge. Then you'll have a better idea of the problem LL

late, you raise some interesting questions but first tell us how many miles you have on this 99 and if you ever had the cat(s) or the o2 sensors replaced. Also which engine is it eg 1mz-fe) The reason is this may help about how to proceed. usually it's the "sensor 1" o2 sensor that goes bad, not the one on the cat, but the code says you may have a problem w/ the cat on bank one. looking 0420 up, the trouble areas indicated are reportedly 1) gas leakage on exhaust system, 2)air fuel sensor bank 1,2 sensor 1) 3) heated o2 sensor bank 1, sensor 2, 4) 3 way catalytic converter. This suggests that you actually have AF sensors as the first "O2" detectors, the ones in the manifolds (the AF sensors are a newer version of the old 02 sensor), but the sniffer downstream is an older style O2 sensor. I like to think about what is the easiest and/or least expensive step first, then proceed with the next etc. I'd first do a visual/audio inspection of the down pipes -- either crawl underneath or take it to a muffler shop (easier and might be free...). If that checks out ok, I'd next replace the AF and/or 02 sensors ($50-$80 for the latter at Rock Auto). If that doesn't work you'll have to reckon with the cat. The bad input to the computer, shouldn't effect the way the ECM manages the engine, it's just a warning. But you may have trouble getting an inspection in many states. Sometimes banging on the cat w/ a hammer breaks up the matrix inside leading to better performance. Of course the ecological thing to do is just replace the cat, if the replaced 02 sensor doesn't fix it. I used to fret about replacing the 02 sensor if that wasn't the problem, but you have to think of them like spark plugs, they go bad after so many miles (80k?) and don't work as well when they get old. BTW, those are pretty cool graphs. what obdII program are you using (mine doesn't do that...)? Was the graph taken at idle? If so it appears bank 1 and 2 sensor 1's are flatlining, and I'm not sure if that's appropriate; it may be normal if these are AF sensors. The up and down for the o2 sensor seems about right. However this makes it hard to explain why the code is being thrown..... Keep us posted on your progress. LL LL

More data today. Hooked up my computer to the car and took it out. Fuel trims were top ended at idle, but w/ acceleration/higher rpms would come down and even dip into the negative. O2 sensors would be very low at idle, but would come up and porpoise between 0.15 and 0.85 v w/ acceleration/higher rpms. Over all though seems way too lean, as the fuel trims should range from -10% to +10....and still got a 0171 code. Cked the pcv pipe, no air leak there. Ordered 2 02 sensors from Rock Auto ($104 for both including shipping), but still not sure they are the problem, have just been convinced (based on reading a lot about 02 sensors and fuel trims on line) that they should be replaced for best fuel effeciency, and longevity of cat. LL

The story continues. After putting it all back together after tightening up intake manifold bolts, it continues to throw the 0171, system lean bank1, sensor 1. I decided to try an experiment, swapped the bank 1 and bank 2 o2 sensors. Now it's throwing 0130, 0133, 0150, 153, which means both sensors are showing malfunction circuits, both sensors are sluggish. What has remained consistant throughout is that the long and short term fuel trims for both sides are above 19.5+, and both o2 sensors stay down at 0.05 or below. My theory now is that the original bank 1 o2 sensor is bad, but that there is a problem in bank 1, w/ high 02 read at the sensor. Lean condition can cause this, and causes of lean conditions (I've read) are 1)faulty air induction (inspected w/out problems), 2) exhaust leak, 3) bad o2 sensor, 4) bad maf sensor, 5) clogged injector, 6) low fuel pressure, 7) bad pcv hose connection, 8)engine coolant temp sensor, 9) ECM. W/ # 1 ruled out, I took the mass air flow sensor off and cleaned it, then checked to make sure appropriate voltage was getting to it, then checked the resistance on the sensor and that was ok too, so this is not likely the cause of the lean situation (#4 ruled out) I think it unlikely that there is a clogged injector as the engine runs too smoothly. That makes # 5 unlikely. Checked the pcv connection all looks good, new pcv valve, BUT I may take the hose off and ream it out, they tend to get pretty junked up (#7) ECT sensor works well according to my obdII connection. (#8) I've hear ECM's rarely go bad and when they do (corrosion on the board) the car won't run at all (#9) That leaves me w/ #2, #3, and #6. So....I'm thinking of taking the plenum and wiring harness off and trying to tighten down the driver side rear exhaust manifold bolts as I think I hear a little too much throaty exhaust sounds coming from that area. This would attend to #2. No cost except for the time. I've already tightend up the EGR connections and they look good on inspecition. I also tighted up the driver side exh manifold bolts (three) that are accessable from that side of the car. Or.....I'll rent a fuel pressure guage and check that possibility out (while replacing the fuel filter, about $20), that'd would take care of #6. (never did this before but here's another learning opportunity!) Or.....I could just go out and buy two new 02 sensors, but I'm too cheap. I'm waiting for my pick and pull to get some new es300 and or camrys in so I can try out replacement02 sensors, none available currently. I'll keep ya posted, if anyone is interested. Of course comments, advise, critical assessments of my logic are welcomed. LL