92Lex

If you're willing to travel then you might want to try these: http://www.craigslist.org/sfc/car/49486654.html http://www.craigslist.org/sby/car/49654033.html http://www.craigslist.org/sby/car/48698309.html

If you go to Autozone they should hook up a scan tool for you and clear the trouble code....this is probally the easiest way. You could also borrow a OBD2 scan tool and clear the code yourself...Autozone also lends them out. Or you could just disconnect the battery cables (negative first) for 10 minutes...this just turns off the CEL so you'll probally still have the code present....if it's a hard fault then the light will reappear.

Do you still have a P0420 (bank 1 low threshold) code? Just clear the codes and see if you have a hard fault (if they reappear) or not. After repairs you should always clear codes just to make sure your repair was successful. If you're able to review the freeze frame data it would be easier to get it to turn itself off. The best way is to have the computer to turn the CEL off itself....but the easiest way would be for you to do it manually.

I can't even make out what you took pictures of...but anyways, try this http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=15261

Bring it to your local auto parts store and have them take a look at the charging system. If it's a brand new battery I don't see why it wouldn't hold a charge...maybe your alternator is gone.

The oil pressure switch is about $10 at rockauto.

I sure am. Haha, tell me when you find one. I have a little "sniper cat" picture waiting for you.

How many cu ft is your enclosure? Try to find out the volume of the subwoofer frame and magnet. If you use the min required enclosure (.7 cu ft) you won't end up with .7 cu ft of air space after the enclosure is installed. The magnet and frame will take up some of that space...you could make up for it with the polyfill though. Buy the RCA's on Ebay. Stinger RCA's are good for the money. $200 dollars is about right. $35 for amp kit, $45 for install kit + harness, $80 for box, $5 for speaker wire, and $20 for RCA's.

Make sure for yourself that the box is made to specs....sometimes they'll sell you whatever. Umm, you could buy RCA's from Walmart but those are cheap....RCA's determine the sound quality so I would definitely stick with quality RCA's. For you sub wires go to Goodguys, they sell it by the foot...you only need a few feet. For your polyfill you could get a 1.5 pound bag at Walmart in the pillow section for 3 bucks.

Don't look at the pictures...take a look at the actual bulb.

Yeah, I heard ya on that one VGR....it was hard trying to keep the holes on the gasket aligned with the holes on the pan.

Hahah. I do it all the time.

For a normal car the interval to check tranny oil/filter is something like 36months/36k miles. These LS' aren't normal cars though...I don't see anything in my manual either...I think only a pan drain is required.

It's going to be in a sealed box so you want polyfill to help prevent standing sound waves...the polyfill will "trick" the sub into thinking that they are actually in a slightly larger box. What it really does is slows down the movement of air in the enclosure. By adding lots of area and random channels for the air to move through...it slows down the flow in many directions, instead of all in the same direction. It should also help improve sound quality slightly. Any cheap polyfill will be fine to use, just make sure you don't use fiberglass insulation (it will burn the voice coils in the subs). Is your box built to the subwoofer specs? Yeah, run the power wire down the left or right side of the vehicle...then run the RCA's down the opposite side of the amp power wire. You shouldn't worry too much about how to run the wires, your cousins/friend that is helping you do the install probally knows.

Haha, I was reading SW03ES' post...came to the part where it said lightly used old people..I was thinking wth? Ended up I was reading it wrong...haha.

I agree. Excessive carbon build up is usually because of an engine that has been running too rich for an extended period of time. Another cause would be worn piston rings or leaky valve seals.

When I bought the tranny filter it came with a rubber gasket for the pan. Originally there was high temp sealant when I pulled the pan off...I just scraped that away and replaced it with the rubber gasket that came with the purchase of the transmission filter. FIPG is good stuff...I had a little trouble trying to remove the pan because the sealant was holding it on real good. If you're going to use the sealant make sure you clean up the area real good before applying it.

That's a decent price for an enclosure....throw in 1 pound of polyfill for every cubic foot of air space and you'll be all set. You know you could get the exact same wiring harness from SFX audio at Walmart on Truxel Rd for 6 or 7 dollars. Go with the DIN kit from SFX audio though...it's much cleaner. PS...always run your power cables and RCA's down the opposite sides of the vehicle.

I say keep looking. It's good to be picky...in the end you'll have something you really like.

jadecuir....just email me at t_tu_le@hotmail.com. Yeah, just buy your amp kit from Walmart....power wire is power wire..it doesn't matter. You need 12 gauge or lower (bigger) because there's going to be a lot of wattage running through those wires...any smaller and it's going to be inefficient. So the smaller the wire the more resistance there will be....more resistance = less amperage to your subs. You'll need for that setup what lexls said in one of the replies above.

Oh, that was meant for VGR...it wasn't directed towards you NC_lexus. I agree with 90LS, that ticking isn't a big deal...it may be a little annoying but you shouldn't worry too much about it.

PM me.

The tick you are refering to in your car might be different from someone else's. Person X might have a tick associated with his/her valves....readjusted valves and the tick went away...while your problem might be something else so a valve adjustment wouldn't do you any good. How's someone going to be able to tell you your exact problem online based on "tick,tick,tick". You have had experience adjusting valves, so why not pull the cover off and take a look for youself?

I've done the valve adjustment on a 16 valve '89 Corolla 4A-F 4 cyl motor which has exactly the same type of valvetrain as the first generation LS400 engine. It's not that difficult or complicated a job because typically only a few valves are out of adjustment and sometimes none are out. So only a few shims are ever needed and they only cost more like $6-10 from a discount dealer. However, I am still not convinced loose valve clearances would cause a ticking noise on the LS400 engine because the valvetrain has no rocker arms that could tick. So again, I hope we can hear from a PRO who has had first hand experience with solving the ticking noise on the earlier LS400 motors (the ones without the variable valve timing) Could it be that the ticking noise is actually a noisy fuel injector? I know owners of the 3VZ-FE Toyota / Lexus motor have reported injector ticking noises. ← You've asked the same thing several times and everyone is pointing to your valves. If you already have an opinion about what your problem might be then why do you ask us, then disagree with us? Fuel injector...wth?

If you're spending $300 for an amp to just power your subwoofer then you should seriously consider a JL 500/1. As for the wires, just buy whatever you could find at Walmart. For the RCA's go with Stinger if you could afford it then buy RCA's from Rockford Fosgate. You might also want to add a 1 farad capacitor to your setup. Are you going to throw them in a ported or sealed box? If you're going with a sealed enclosure then go buy some polyfil for the box. For your amp power wire use 4gauge (amp kit at Walmart includes the remote turn on). Subwoofer speaker wire use 12gauge.