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  • Lexus Model
    1997 LS400

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  1. Did you reference the TSI? (the link in my past post) DATE: APRIL 26,1996 LS 400 DRIVESHAFT & DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT CHANGES Page 1 of 1 For improved driving smoothness when accelerating from approximately 35 m.p.h., the following production changes have been made: 1. Rear drive shafts phase–matched between inboard and outboard joints. 2. Dynamic spring constant of differential rear mount changed. 3. Dynamic damper added to stabilizer bracket. PART NUMBER INFORMATION: REF: DRIVELINE/ DIFFERENTIAL NO: DL002–96 MODEL: LS 400 PRODUCTION EFFECTIVE: Starting VIN: JT8BH22F#T0036670
  2. I understand completely! Here is what I replaced and why. I also replaced the driveshaft. In the end, the car was perfect, but my wallet a good deal slimmer. Ultimately, my car got totaled soon after. Best of luck.
  3. The are the rear differential bushings, rear sub-frame bushings, and others I am probably missing. Why are you certain it is drive shaft related? With your symptoms, I would look at a imbalanced wheel ( maybe you lost a weight) or a rim out of true (hit any curbs or really big pot holes lately).
  4. Interesting. Have you tried every shift position(3,2,1,)? If so, are they appropriate?
  5. My passenger side headlight received some damage from road debris. Aside from keeping out the elements that will reduce the lamp life, I can not pass Texas inspection in its current condition. I would like to take some suggestions for a low cost (compared to a new assembly ~$250 new or less used) solution before replacing. Thanks in advance. Pic 1 Pic 2
  6. pachocco1


    97 LS400
  7. Because of my trunk leak in my 97(see above post), i took out my phone amp. It is a Motorola model 19120NAMSC. It is yours if you want it for shipping costs only.
  8. I noticed there is some sort of sticky glue-like stuff between the trunk lip where the weatherstrip attached to. I am wondering whether the glue-like stuff needs to be re-applied in order to enforce the tighter seal after cleaning up the lip ... I found one of my leaks is at the passenger side taillight area where the weatherstip and the edge of the taillight case is overlapped a bit, the weatherstrip is supposed to be behind the taillight case. But mine is not which creates a gap and thus the leak. I think I made this mistake from changing the brake light bulb couple months ago. On the other hand, I still see some water inside the trunk on the driver side. I didn't pull out all the weatherstrip since I want to figure out what's that glue-like stuff. Thanks -->Henry I did not replace any of it nor did I try to remove any of it while cleaning debris and dirt from the lip areas. Be sure to rotate the gasket so it sits on a different area. (Top side was near the glass, now near the bumper) I was careful in the tail light area as well. I used a very small and blunt flat head screw driver to reseat the gasket in that area. I should have put both of these details in my prior post. My apologies. To date, I am still leak free after many rainy days and car washes.
  9. I have had the same problem. Today, I decided to price a new "weatherstrip". It is $97 at Park place for a 97 LS. My leak has been occurring in just one corner near the back glass. So I took off the entire gasket and noticed that along that section (which I then marked), the gasket seal was significantly more pliable (flattened out) than the other remaining sections. The entire gasket is very much the same across the entire run but has many contour bends to fit the trunk. Upon closer scrutiny, the gasket did not appear to be molded in that shape. So, I stuck the gasket in very hot soapy water and cleaned it. I next cleaned the trunk gutter and the trunk lip the gasket was attached to. All were very dirty. After cleaning the gasket, I left it out in the sun to heat up a bit. All the contours were easily straightened out and the gasket became uniform throughout. There is some metal striping that runs inside the gasket for reinforcement and allows it to "clasp" to the trunk lip. In some places the gasket gap was a bit wider than normal so I cinched or clamped by hand back in to standard shape. Lastly, I re-installed the gasket but this time I put the marked (leaky section) on the bottom of the trunk lip near the tail-lights instead of back by the back glass. Several minutes of H20 hose testing ensued with successful results.
  10. I replaced the theft deterring nuts with a regular nuts due to rounding issues, by looks alone , my stock rims are a theft deterent. : )
  11. Here is the pdf for a 97. The first is on-vehicle-repair. The second is a full diagnostic algorithm. ovr.pdf preche.pdf
  12. uh...i missed something.... The rotors are held on in a tempory manner with the small brass screws for safety. Otherwise they would fall off on full wheel removal. Upon tire installation, the lug nuts put restraining torque on both the wheel and rotors. If your lugs are tight, then your rotors are tight. You can verify this while the car is on a lift with wheels on. The question is how or whether you have checked to verify the rotors wobble with the wheels on.
  13. Rotating? I always thought if you gave steering and handling significance then you did NOT rotate your tires. (Esp given the longer last characteristics of modern tires) If you wanted to emphasize tire longevity, then you rotate at recommended intervals. This relies on the assumption that the car has no alignment or suspension issues of course.
  14. You could also try Davenport.
  15. I think your wheels are at fault as well. That repaired wheel, I would scrutinize the trueness of the repair. Have you try swapping it out with the spare to check for any difference? or moving it to another location to detect any change in vibration source?
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