92Lex

22's?!? Damn, you're brave. Is it rubbing the fenders or inside wheel liner?

I don't understand why your stock ECU can't compensate for the additional air seen through your CAI. I mean if your car was getting insane amounts of air and caused your MAF sensor to max out then it would pose a problem. I doubt it that your intake would cause the lean condition. Maybe your MAF sensor hotwire is coated with the oil from your CAI filter? If it was my car I would save the money and not do the 3.76 gears. I'd invest that money into having the head street port and polished. If you're DIY you could even port/polish the head at home and save money there. Then look into having someone custom tune your car. I just think the actual wheel hp gain would be far greater than crank hp you're aiming for. Since your car is an auto, you would lose somewhere between 20-25% hp from the crank. So that extra 50 hp (at the crank) would be more like 37 hp to the wheels. Not very noticable because of the weight of these cars.

Actually it seems that BMW's encounter the same problems that most of these Lexus vehicle's do. The amount of posts regarding issue's with maintenance/break downs are no more than this board. I've owned 3 Lexus' in the past and honestly, I can't say any of them were any more reliable than my straight 6 BMW. As for highschool kids burning their parents money. The same can be said about IS300 owners.

Your car shouldn't have wires. It should sport the coil on plug system (1 ignition coil per spark plug).

What's the actual build date of your car? 8/97-2000 vehicle's use the coil on plug system. Yes, your trans filter is just a metal screen type of filter. You can just clean it by running some brake fluid through it, but it's a cheap part anyways. Not much damage on your wallet if you did decide to replace it.

Yes, it reduces certain emissions. It'd be kick-!Removed! to have my car run on your "daily" fuel everyday!! I envy your gas...pump gas that is!! Hahaha. How much is it per gallon over there?

Let me introduce myself. My name is Sherry FTW. I'm one fat !Removed! !Removed!, I eat M5's, Z06's, and SS' daily. I love it when my boss rides me hard...I love it hard. When he steps on me, I squat like a cheap !Removed!. I can run very fast though, even though I'm such a fat !Removed! (3800 lbs)...12's to be exact (like a dozen of Krispy Kremes). Yes, I get action DAILY...lucky me ;)

Anyone active in this forum with a FI set-up? Just curious as to why I haven't seen much forced induction threads on this forum. I mean....this is a "mod" section. The majority of your vehicles are capable of handling FI to an extent. Let me guide you to becoming a boost junky!! Haha. P.S. being broke isn't a factor. Boosting can be done on a budget.

valve stem seals?

No, you're confusing me as hell. Haha. According to how I first read this post, you're having problems with hot air being vented in while your vehicle is in motion...yeah? Even though all the buttons are off. Including the vent/outside air option being switched off. If that's the case then I would suspect that to be the problem. No guaranty though, unless you decided to pay me =). Man, it's 4:44 am your time...and I thought I was the only one with problems sleeping. Any suggestions for a good sleep med? I thought country music would help but I'm still wide awake!! Haha.

Not sure if you'll want to remove the A/C suitcase...it's a hell of a job. It's behind the dash. Right next to the heater core. I'm not sure which year LS you own but 90-94's call for about 4 hours of labor if I recall. Are you going to be taking on this task yourself?

There's an actuator that controls vented air vs. cabin/re-circulating air. That motor/arm is most likely broken...thus causing air to be drawn in (vented) regardless of the position of the button. I guess what I'm trying to say is....the vented air position is stuck in the "open" position and the button has no control over it.

AzHotLS, Your only going to want to replace the ACV if it's actually the culprit of your problems. Are you losing P/S fluid that you can't explain? No, I've replaced my ACV with my P/S pump still attached. Thanks to my universal sockets...I love Snap-On.

Air comes in behind the button? Or is it through the vents? Are you sure the button is set to the off/re-circulating air when it is off? Orange would be off.

What are your power goals? What mods do you plan on doing in the future? It all comes down to that. Honestly, an intake mod isn't going to make much improvement, regardless of it being a 3 or 4" intake. A/R and engine air flow/match is going to be a factor but how much power are you aiming for?

I haven't been active on this board for awhile (been a bimmer !Removed!). Haha. But yeah, it seems like there are only a couple of new posts every day. Either that or I'm just used to seeing new posts every 10 mins on the bimmer forums...excuse my foul language :P . But yeah, cmon now guys. Talk about anything....even fog light mods!! It'd be nice to have a "community". If things keep goin' this way then there wouldn't be a "LOC" in the future. Support this forum and keep it goin' for everyone here. It doesn't always have to be about a "problem/warranty" issue. Let's have some fun now. I'll show ya'll how to de-chrome your trim? Have anything for me? Psshhh....no, I'm not drunk.

Yes, and freeway driving is going to be a !Removed! with a 3.76 gear ratio. What are your goals for switching it up to a 3.76? I'd prefer a 2.93 for a daily driven vehicle. But it all comes down to what you plan to do with your car.

Shouldn't you have sprayed the carb/brake cleaner directly at the injector o-ring to determine the o-ring leakage? Not to de-credit your method of diagnostics but by "spraying it" into the IM, it would distribute that substance throughout all the injectors (single bank). In that case, it would be extremely difficult to pin-point the exact injector.

A gatorback brand shouldn't affect the alignment of the pulley's...unless he/she was given the wrong belt. If your cats were piping hot red and you lost power...it's most likely that your timing was accidently retarded. Ask me how I know. :whistles:

Pull off your timing covers and check the condition of the belt before you flip out.

Change your transmission fluid everytime you change your spark plugs (30k). No, the transmission filter doesn't really have to be "replaced". You can just take it out and clean it with clean trans fluid, then replace the pan with a new gasket.

Yeah, you might want to swap out your fuel filter. Maybe even take a look at your spark plugs. Should be a cheap fix though (if you're DIY).

What was the gas labeled as? Should have some kind of octane rating or what not. Yes, E10 would affect emission levels...depending on what contents your state tests for. I'd be happy with 93 octane or higher. This 91 is killing me. E10 must be killer for everyone with a stable supply of it. What was the gas labeled as? Should have some kind of octane rating or what not. E10 isn't a universal/readily available source of fuel...yet. I'd be happy with 93 octane or higher. E10 would be straight s*x for forced induction.

Is E10 available everywhere in Hawaii, or just select gas stations? I wish I lived in a state that offered something better than this cali 91 craptane.

E10 won't cause any damage to your engine. Some states are even attempting to mandate the use of 10% ethanol in 87 octane gasoline. Newer cars fuel systems were designed to safely run E10...daily.