What do you all suggest as the best pure synthetic oil for a 2003 ES 300 with 209,000 miles? Runs perfectly with a very small (weekly drip) using Mobil 1 (5W-20). Also, what filter is recommended. Located in NC Piedmont region. Car is only driven <5000 miles a year.
I just became the proud new owner of a rare 1992 Es300 5 speed. I've been looking for a long time and finally tracked one down. Its in pretty good shape, I got lucky and found one with only 1 previous owner and she had it what work was done on it performed at a local toyota dealership. But it isn't perfect by any means...
It has 398.000 miles on it for starters. There aren't any leaks fortunately and the transmission still seems to have life in it but obviously it isn't going to last too much longer without my divine intervention (and hopefully LexusOwnersClub.com too). Not too many cosmetic issues. I bought it in the Sacramento area so the front seats leather is dry and have split a few seams on the drivers side and the leather on the door panel surrounding the door lever has dried and shrunk to the point of needing replacement. The rear Passenger window came out of place and both mirrors are loose at the pivot point that attaches to the car body. Also the power antenna and motor is broken and the passenger side speaker doesn't work. Otherwise its in very good shape. I plan on rebuilding or replacing as much as possible on it or at least whats reasonable and when I do that I would like to upgrade as much as possible. Basically I'm going for a build based on the Midship Runabout guide ( http://midshiprunabout.org/mk2/why-the-3vz-fe-is-the-best-toyota-v6/ ) and the Toysrme 3vz-fe tuning guide ( http://www.mr2.com/forums/threads/1899-Toysrme-s-N-A-3vz-fe-Tuning-Guide-(Applies-to-all-N-A-v6-s) ). I have a motor with 180,000 miles on it that I plan on doing a complete tear down and rebuild and I want to try to install an E153 transmission and use a LSD from a MR2. I haven't been able to find any useful info on a good clutch setup yet but perhaps someone here has some insight.
So basically I'm on here to get whatever this forum has to offer. Tips, tricks, advice, warnings, parts for sale or sources for parts would be greatly appreciated!!! Also since there is alot of knowledge and experience buried in this site I figured that my project would be a good opportunity to consolidate all of the significant information into one solid thread. I will be posting pics of what I'm starting with and will document my progress on the way. I will also post links to anything that I find useful as I come across it. I've read up on alot but I haven't had the opportunity to pursue anything major yet. I'm not incapable but feel free to explain things to me like I'm incompetent I'm sure it will make things easier in the long run.
My goal is to build a "brand new" and improved 1992 Lexus ES300 and I would a greatly appreciate any insight or guidance.
Thanks to all
I just wanted to say before i continue, I'm 21, Female and this is my first car I've owned for about 3 years ( not that any of this is really important)I'm starting to want to learn more about cars and how to fix my own problems and save money instead of relying on a mechanic. So far I have repaired my busted front bumper, repaired and replaced R headlight housing and bulb, and Replaced an 02 censor.
I'm having issues with my transmission shifting gears in cold weather, but it runs like a dream in the summer. This was a problem last winter but wasn't as bad. Before, while accelerating and merging over on high-way, it wouldn't use the 4th gear at first but then it would shift gears after driving for a bit. Does the same problem now, but won't change gears at all or takes 10 mins+ to shift itself. sometimes has issues shifting 2nd gear to 3rd.
es300 is 206xxx miles, 1999 model, and the transmission was rebuilt July 2016. I'm afraid this might have something to do with the previous failing but i want to try and fix the issue myself but can't figure out why this is happening or where to start. Coolant meter is always where it should be, oil is changed religiously, 02 sensor bank 1 sensor 2 needs to be replaced.
4000 rmp at 75mph... (o/d drive is not on). Sometimes when braking hard or getting off high way, doesn't accelerate as it should, almost as if it skips 2nd gear. Accelerating 1st to 2nd at stops goes back to normal if I restart engine.
Over all, why is this happening and how can I fix it? Only happens during cold temperatures below 40.
I have a 1994 Ls400 with an odd suspension squeak. The squeak only happens when braking. Definitely not a brake squeak. The squeak sounds more like a chatter and gets louder depending on how fast I'm braking. But this squeak does not happen when in reverse. I've replaced the UCA on the driver's side because the ball joint boot was torn. Both front struts are brand new, and just today I took the sway bar bushings off and greased them. Sway bar endlinks don't have play, and the rest of the ball joints don't have play. Still the same noise. Any suggestions on what it could be?
Ok, so i pulled a dumb and challenged myself to build a car in 1 week, putting a Lexus 1uz onto a w58 into a Mk3 Supra,
but I hit a major roadblock... My engine won't run, it'll crank but nothing more. I've been trying to get my engine to run for the past three days, literally have been working on it for 10 hours each day at least, and have somehow gotten nowhere.
What I have -
-I have the 1UZFE VVTi engine (I believe it came out of a 99-00 Lexus SC400) just the motor, no transmission
-I have the ECU (that I believe is the original stock ECU)
-I have the stock wiring engine wiring loom which came pre-plugged in and all that
My engine again
Wiring loom and ECU
What I've done -
-Connected the EB2 (2) wire which is black with red stripe (I believe is ignition 1) directly to the positive to the battery
-Connected the EB2 (3) wire which is also black with red stripe but physically larger(I believe the starter power wire) directly to the positive on the battery
-Connected the IJ2 (11) wire which is black with orange stripe with silver dots directly to the positive on the battery
-Connected the IJ2 (11) wire which is yellow with black stripe directly to the positive on the battery
-Put in new SAE 5W-30 oil, there is an oil leak but it has enough oil to run
top left EB2(3), middle bottom EB2(2), top right EB1(4)
What I've tried -
-Used starter fluid spray directly in the air intake, did NOT work
-I plugged in a blade fuse in the power and ground wire(i think) of the transmission plug to try to trick it into thinking it was in park because maybe the ECU wouldn't let it run, did NOT work
-Bought and connected a MAF sensor (from a junkyard Toyota) and plugged it right in without an air intake, i was told it would run without one but got one anyways because i also heard it the ECU won't let it run without MAF input, did NOT work
-Looped (plug a wire in power running to ground) O2 sensors near transmission plug, tested with and without, did NOT work
-Cleaned spark plugs for healthy ground
-Tested power to ECU, it was receiving power (12.6 Volts approx)
-Probably a lot more but writing this from my crappy memory now
MAF sensor plugged into MY engine
Transmission plug with blade fuse
Final words -
- I believe the ECU is not sending signals to the spark plugs, therefore there's no combustion, I don't know why
- I have spent hours and hours and hours on lots of forums trying to figure this out myself, obviously couldn't solve the problem
- I may just be missing something important, honestly I don't know now
- I tried to be as descriptive as can be because I know that helps others diagnose the problem
- If you have a question just ask, and I'll answer it to the best of my capabilities or I will honestly tell you I don't know
- PLEASE TEXT OR CALL ME AT 512-720-1166 IF YOU THINK YOU CAN HELP, OR HAVE A SUGGESTION
More engine photos -