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Instrument cluster clock/climate control

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bought a replacement, newer lcd cluster, put it in, lcd worked great!! a week later the a/c temp side light has started to flicker and go out, wtf?

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Hi all!

My stereo was working fine in my 1999 LS400, until one day - on the way to pick up a pizza - I looked down and saw this

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Great...

I drove around for a while like that, trying to get used to the readout, but it always bothered me. I ended up finding an eBay listing for a stereo that was coming out of the exact same year model! Yes! I won the bid with $35 for the stereo. The seller said "all operations work". I was very happy with this, and I finally found some time to install the stereo. The LCD worked GREAT!, but there was no sound. I guess "all operations" does not include having the stereo make any music... Well... I buttoned everything back up, and my family went on a little road trip last night. While I was driving, I thought I might try to swap the LCD screens from the stereo I just purchased to my existing stereo, and I would make a "how to" if it worked out great.

First thing you need though is an LCD. You can pick a new Pioneer LCD screen. If you don't see one on eBay, try here:

http://parts.pioneer...ductNum=CWM5077

This is the original LCD screen from Pioneer. Currently, as of this writing, it's $115.50 + shipping to where ever you are. (Nope... I don't work for Pioneer). Assuming that you have now have a replacement LCD, let's start!

You will first want to place the gear selector in neutral (or a lower gear):

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You will then want to get a flat item to pry up the wood grain console. I used a paint scraper, and applied some electrical tape around the edge so as not to scratch anything:

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Gently pry and lift up.

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You can see the connectors for the heated seats, VSC and cigarette lighter:

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Disconnect the connectors for the heated seats (if you have them), VSC, and lighter. Lift off the console, and place where you won't step on it or put heavy tools on it.

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Now, you'll need to pull out the center vents. The first time that I did this, I nearly broke the wood piece just underneath. I listened to that still, small Voice that said, "Hang on, don't do that. Just look inside." Sure as shooting, there are two tabs, one on each side:

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Hopefully, I was able to capture it with the camera. You will be able to see it better in your own car. Insert a flat blade screwdriver and pry (gently) towards the center. On my car, I pry until I can put the edge of the tab on the inner edge of the air way. I then know that the tab lock has fully released. You should be able to wiggle the center piece with your hand:

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Take your pry tool and start from the top. Gently(!) pry the center vent into coming towards you. DO NOT USE TOO MUCH FORCE. If it doesn't come easily, make triply sure that you got the locking tabs unlocked.

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Now, slide the center vent out:

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Take the hazard light connector apart (be sure to pull the connector, and not the wire!):

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Go get a towel, and not your wife's good towel either. Place it over the center console. You will protect the center console sides from getting scratched, and it will keep little bolts from falling where you will never see them again.

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There are four 10 mm bolts holding the HVAC and radio to the dash. They are on either side. Here are two shots of one side:

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Take your ratchet and pull them out:

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Now pull the entire HVAC / radio unit up and towards you. Detach the connectors from the back of the stereo. I left the HVAC connectors plugged in.

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In the next picture, you can see the screws that you'll take out eventually. However, for now, I took out the three-per-side screws just to the right of my index finger. This is the bracket that holds the radio and HVAC together. I suppose this step isn't really necessary, but I am really glad that I took the stereo out of the bracket. It made it much easier to work on:

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Now you should have the radio out. Here it is sitting on my desk:

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You'll take out the screws from each side of the face plate (I've already removed them in these pictures):

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Take a flat head screwdriver and place behind each of the four tabs that help keep the face plate in position:

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Now pull the face plate apart (again gently).

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There is a single ribbon connector connecting the radio to the back of the LCD screen circuit board. You'll need to disconnect this from the LCD. I used a screwdriver to pry it out on each edge of the connector. This worked well for me. Needle nose pliers would also work well. Here in this picture, I have a screwdriver touching the connector. Don't pull on the wires!:

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Good job! You now have the face plate separated from the radio.

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This is the part that you are replacing:

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There are two screws holding in the LCD screen. Unscrew these and simply lift out the LCD screen unit:

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Put your new LCD screen in and reattach the ribbon connecting the LCD screen to the radio. Make sure it's fully seated:

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Reattach the radio to the brackets on the HVAC unit, plug the wires into their respective connectors, and reinstall back into the dash:

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Reattach the hazard light connector and slide the center air vent back into the dash. It goes in much, much easier than when you were taking it out!

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Remember where you hid your center wood grain console? Go get it and press it back into position. After this, screw the gear selector knob back into position.

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The moment of truth:

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YES! A working LCD!

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And finally, with my little iPhone bracket, which has proved to be most useful in holding the phone, taking calls using the stereo as a speakerphone, and listening to music. Apple's Siri can hear pretty well in a quiet Lexus. Not the best aesthetically, but very, very functional.

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Lastly, there are some additional pics that I uploaded, but didn't really use under the "attached" section. Feel free to disregard! Once you have a replacement LCD screen in hand, you should be able to complete this task in about an hour to hour and a half. Taking out the center air dash is probably the toughest part, because you want to be gentle to keep from breaking it. It is very expensive to replace!

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When I asked this question 11 yrs ago, I had no idea that it would generate nearly 160,000 hits and uncover several other Lexus lighting deficiencies.

Lexus Owners Forum is a great tool and has helped so many of us, Thx. to them

Thx also to UMC3 and Jet pilot for helping me back in 2002....bob

since the LS 400: SC400, Jag XKR conv't & now Audi S4 Conv't

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Bob: I'm having the same problem, with my 94. I check the prices over here in Maryland, and it looks like "raines"'s price of $300 is quite cheap, compared to the $400 ones I've found so far.

Just joined this group to learn more about my LS400 1995. Only last year (2013) did my instrument cluster start to go....I guess that is not too bad a track record. Just wanted to share that I have a Lexus certified service guy who has his own shop and he quoted me about $500 recently. My brother found a guy on eBay who offers the same service for less than $150, but you have to send yours to him, which means you're without one and using a 2nd car for 10 days or so, or in a rental car. I'm thinking the guy on eBay is the same person everyone else is using. My brother is encouraging me to remove it myself and get a rental. Has anyone done this? Appreciate your assistance. I love this car -- has over 200,000 miles on it and I have no desire to own anything else, unless it is a truck.

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Hi folks,finally got my 94LS running. Now the instrument cluster (Speedometer,gas, RPMs etc) is completely black. Recommendations? Find a repair person or is this a DIY-remove it, replace the bulbs and go?

BB

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Hi I just replaced all of my 7 & 10 fuses to address my failed instrument cluster based on a forum recomendation (ALL BLACK) and this hasn't worked. In fact ,since doing this my windshield wipers have stopped functioning.. :cries:Any help welcome

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Hi Guys,

Just wanted to let you know, I found the LCD display itself on ebay for a mere 40 bucks, had it sent to europe, did the soldering myself with the tutorial @ lexls.com, and voila : it works.

Total cost about € 60,- aka 90 dollar (I think, what's the exchange rate again ?).

I found the link again :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lexus-A-C-Climate-Control-LCD-DISPLAY-SCREEN-LS400-1990-1991-1992-90-91-92-NEW-/131261754806?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e8fcf6db6&vxp=mtr

Is that a deal or what ?

W.

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What parts are interchangeable on the model LS400 between 1990 thru 1993?

Do parts like instrument clusters fit?

Thanks. I'm trying to go with newer parts to at least stay off the Cluster issues I've already started having.

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I know the right guy for you, he'd built my LCD and instruments cluster, and he do tge ECU rebuild as well as it is one of the common failure in our cars, his name is Jim and he is a retired engineer, now doing this business from his work place in his home, and he do this job now for the agency it self. I would recommend this guy for everybody, he did a very good job with me, and he will give you his guarantee as long as you own the car and he is committed to his customers.

Email: thelexpert@gmail.com

Mobile: 559 2405235

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Tanin auto electronics does the climate controls for about $99. or you can get the LCD from them for 49. They also sell parts for or fix the clusters too.

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http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/lighting/climateLCDscreen.html

Tanin does sell the LCD to do this fix, as well as the lights and capacitors to do the ecu.

I tackled this today and wasn't too bad of a project to do. It was a wrecking yard Control and I have not tried it yet.

In my opinion if you need the climate control LCD fixed. It would be best to have tannin do it, they are very reasonable for that fix.

I really don't see how they make a dime on that particular job as it doesn't happen real fast.

The above link shows prying the case front hook areas, that is not really necessary you can use your fingers/nails and easily to it.

I did remove all the guts it just made it easier to work on. Those plug looking things on the boards, I don't think they are gang plugs. So you have to leave all the wires connected except for the small one he noted in the tutorial that connects to the lcd board assembly.

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