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Posted

My dealer uses synthetic blend for all oil changes. If I wanted full synthetic the cost will be almost double...

Blend does it for the time being...

Posted

many dealers use bulk regular dino oil... so uhh.. yeah.. they'll cut corners at your expense unless you specify otherwise. It also varies greatly from dealer to dealer...

Posted
thx guys for ur responses, I guess imma have to specify that I want the top of the line oil, do u guys recommend tat?

I only use fully synthetic in my lexus. If you are going to ask for the highest quality oil you better buy it elsewhere and just have to dealer do the oil change. From my experience the dealer charges twice as much for the oil as you can buy it a local parts store. There are many options available but all the studies i have read show that royal purle and Redline oil are the best, also remember even though it is synthetic oil and it takes longer to break down its not a bad idea to change your oil early. Personally i change mine every 3,000 miles, i figure if i spent 45,000 on a car i might as well maintain it really well!

Posted

Spending the bucks for full synthetic then changing every 3k is literally pouring money down a drain.

Even under severe duty any decent synthetic should go at least 5k, most should be fine at 7500 or 10k.

Amsoil can go 25-35k between changes under normal driving.

Used oil analysis will tell you how often you need to change for your specific vehicle and driving habits/conditions... but every 3k is way too often to need to change full synthetic oil for just about anyone.

Posted

I go with Amsoil and change it once a year which is usually around 7K miles.I'd go 12K on Amsoil if I did the mileage.

I go 12K on the wife's RAV4.

Posted
thx guys for ur responses, I guess imma have to specify that I want the top of the line oil, do u guys recommend tat?

I only use fully synthetic in my lexus. If you are going to ask for the highest quality oil you better buy it elsewhere and just have to dealer do the oil change. From my experience the dealer charges twice as much for the oil as you can buy it a local parts store. There are many options available but all the studies i have read show that royal purle and Redline oil are the best, also remember even though it is synthetic oil and it takes longer to break down its not a bad idea to change your oil early. Personally i change mine every 3,000 miles, i figure if i spent 45,000 on a car i might as well maintain it really well!

What kind of oil do u use though? And also, is Eneos oil any good, which brand is best? I heard a lot of people using mobil 1 syn, and also do u know wat kind of oil the lexus dealership uses?

Posted
thx guys for ur responses, I guess imma have to specify that I want the top of the line oil, do u guys recommend tat?

I only use fully synthetic in my lexus. If you are going to ask for the highest quality oil you better buy it elsewhere and just have to dealer do the oil change. From my experience the dealer charges twice as much for the oil as you can buy it a local parts store. There are many options available but all the studies i have read show that royal purle and Redline oil are the best, also remember even though it is synthetic oil and it takes longer to break down its not a bad idea to change your oil early. Personally i change mine every 3,000 miles, i figure if i spent 45,000 on a car i might as well maintain it really well!

What kind of oil do u use though? And also, is Eneos oil any good, which brand is best? I heard a lot of people using mobil 1 syn, and also do u know wat kind of oil the lexus dealership uses?

I use redline oil in my lexus, i have no burning problems and it runs great. Redline oil does cost more per quart though.

Some people might consider the oil i use and how often i change my oil it over kill but it does no damage and can only help the engine.

Posted

I personally just go for the Mobil 1EP because its cheap and readily available... i can get it anywhere and don't have to order it. If Amsoil were available as easily I'd go for that instead.

Posted

What about the environment?

Changing the oil too often does not damage the engine but adds unnecesary pollution to the planet.

Even without considering the use of a fossil fuel which is the basis for most (if not all) oils.

Posted

more info on synthetics:

...As more vehicles come with synthetic motor oils from the factory, oil change interval recommendations have begun to increase. It looks like 7,500 miles is the new adapted standard. The synthetic oils experience less thermal breakdown and evaporative loss over time compared with conventional oil, which allows for less frequent oil services. Some vehicles have even forgone the traditional dipstick in favor of sensors that determine oil level and adjust the service interval in real time based on your driving habits. However, the decrease in oil changes also means a decrease in service business for dealerships. Dealers rightfully fear a reduction in customer retention and are unsure of the long run effect. Many have found solutions in prepaid maintenance contracts and complete service package deals such as combining tire rotation with your oil service. Also, despite their fears, dealerships won't completely lose out on regular customers as there will always be those reluctant to change their 5,000-mile oil change habit. Plus, there are many people who know the abuse they put their engine through, or don't trust electronic sensors and like to ride on the safe side with frequent oil changes.

[source: Automotive News]

Posted

THx guys for all the response but this seems like a stupid question, how many oil do I need to bring to the dealership, do I get like a one plastic bottle of oil or two plastic bottle, cause I've never really brought anything that I bought to the dealership, thx again guys


Posted

You know, I see a lot of topics on engine oil in forums, and personally, I don't think it matters.

How often do you hear people say their engine needs to be replaced because of wear? Almost never. Why? For several reasons - first, people rarely keep their cars for more than 6-7 years these days. Secondly, engines don't really go bad (unless you run it without any oil). The rest of the car falls apart before the engine does. The paint gets scratched, the window motors go out, brakes are shot, suspension is worn, door seals are tired, anything electrical goes on the fritz... but the engine itself is rarely the culprit.

I say change the oil regularly with decent oil, but don't fret over which brand you use.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Use Amsoil and go at least 12K on the oil and filter. Then pull a UOA. I love there oil and will defend it since I have used it for WAY to long and have done more UOA then I can help throughout the years. It works and works very well.

But if you are using only FF filters there is not many that can do 35K per year.

Yes it matters if anyone feels I am incorrect please show me UOA to prove it. I have used other oils and wears, NOX, OXD, TAN etc and they sucked!

Posted
Use Amsoil and go at least 12K on the oil and filter. Then pull a UOA. I love there oil and will defend it since I have used it for WAY to long and have done more UOA then I can help throughout the years. It works and works very well.

But if you are using only FF filters there is not many that can do 35K per year.

Yes it matters if anyone feels I am incorrect please show me UOA to prove it. I have used other oils and wears, NOX, OXD, TAN etc and they sucked!

Not a good idea to go the extended miles between changes as most of these cars are still under warranty.

Posted
Not a good idea to go the extended miles between changes as most of these cars are still under warranty.

A manufacture cannot deny coverage based on anything. I have been doing longer oil changes from my GSXR bike, Diesel truck, Lexus, Ml420, Kubota Tractor. This is from 1992 onward.

I stick up for it and dealers, most I have seen have no clue. If fact, Amsoil grp 4/5 oil are ahead of Mobil1 EP oils. You WILL not have a problem if your engine is running correctly.

My Lexus manuals, letters etc say I do NOT have to do anything.

FYI:

Q. The GM Factory extended 6/60 warranty I purchased for my Pontiac Grand Am states the following under the "Your Responsibilities" section:

"YOU must properly maintain the covered VEHICLE which includes, but is not limited to, changing the engine oil at a minimum of every 3,000 miles or as recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. If requested, proof of required service, including receipts and work orders showing date and mileage of the VEHICLE at the time of service must be presented to US in the event of a FAILURE or CLAIM."

Because of this I fear switching to the AMSOIL Series 2000 0W-30 synthetic oil and oil filter and leaving it in the engine for the full year or 35,000 miles, thus risking voiding the factory warranty. Is there anything you can do to contact GM and convince them of the fallacy of the 3,000 mile oil change and convince them to use and recommend AMSOIL synthetic oil in their cars? They are convinced enough to use Havoline "extended" drain interval antifreeze, so why won't they see the advantages of AMSOIL synthetic 0W-30 oil?

A. The language in the extended protection plan was written by an insurance company, and it is definitely intended to intimidate you into changing your oil every 3,000 miles. They are doing everything they can to try to limit their liability for claims and create wiggle room.

All of the vehicle OEMs in the U.S. have agreed that a warranty cannot be denied because a customer was using any brand of motor oil at any length drain interval unless an engine failure was directly attributable to the oil or drain interval. For example, if your radio, power steering unit, air conditioner, etc. broke down, they could not void the warranty that covers those items because you were changing your engine oil at extended drain intervals. If it is not an oil related failure, they cannot void the warranty. The law supports this position.

If your engine failed, and the manufacturer denied your warranty for repair due to your using extended drain intervals, then you would submit your claim to the AMSOIL Technical Services Department for handling. (See the AMSOIL Limited Warranty.) Our staff will analyze the oil, and if we are able to provide documentation that proves the source of the problem was something other than the oil, and that in turn allows your claim to be processed under the original warranty, then we will. If no proof can be assembled regarding the source of the problem, our insurance adjustor will be dispatched to resolve the claim. A warranty claim being denied because of the use of extended drain intervals is an extremely rare occurrence. That’s because motor oils do not cause engine failures; dirt, glycol and other mechanical problems do.

Ironically, in Europe the auto manufacturers’ recommended drain intervals are from 12,000-18,000 miles using petroleum products, and they are moving even higher. In the U.S., it has been published that auto manufacturers are also going to be moving toward extended drain intervals of up to 15,000 miles in the not too distant future. Some auto manufacturers include systems in their vehicles that tell you when to change oil based upon a computer program that evaluates driving habits. As these changes develop, so will the language in owner’s manuals and extended warranty policies.

As an AMSOIL customer, you have our warranty coverage to fall back on in the unlikely event of an engine failure that is not covered by your vehicle warranty. I hope you will not be intimidated by the language in your extended warranty policy and will continue to use the highest quality and best performing products that you can, AMSOIL.

Posted

It's a hell of a lot easer just to change the oil at the recommended intervals than to have your car all blown up sitting by the side of the road while you go through all the headaches and heartaches of fighting with the car dealer or company over whether it gets fixed or not. After the warranty is up, do what ever you want.

I'm getting my oil and filter changed every 4-5000 miles or 6 months and it costs me a whopping $29 per change. Big W00t.

Posted
It's a hell of a lot easer just to change the oil at the recommended intervals than to have your car all blown up sitting by the side of the road while you go through all the headaches and heartaches of fighting with the car dealer or company over whether it gets fixed or not. After the warranty is up, do what ever you want.

I'm getting my oil and filter changed every 4-5000 miles or 6 months and it costs me a whopping $29 per change. Big W00t.

It depends in all my years on oil (almost 20 young) I have never seen Amsoil, Redline etc or any other group4/5 used longer cause (blown up sitting....). Car dealer pull the same scare tactics which are BS. IF any engine fails ALL dealers will pull a UOA to see what is up; as I have stated for like 4 years on this forum. Manufactures trust customers zero.

Amsoil cost me $29 plus $10 for a filter. And it last me 1 year (and UOA prove it works very well).:cheers:

I hope to hell you are not tossing $30 down the drain every 4 to 5K miles. If you are doing that, use the cheapest oil you can find and do not test. You will not like it.

Posted
It's a hell of a lot easer just to change the oil at the recommended intervals than to have your car all blown up sitting by the side of the road while you go through all the headaches and heartaches of fighting with the car dealer or company over whether it gets fixed or not. After the warranty is up, do what ever you want.

I'm getting my oil and filter changed every 4-5000 miles or 6 months and it costs me a whopping $29 per change. Big W00t.

It depends in all my years on oil (almost 20 young) I have never seen Amsoil, Redline etc or any other group4/5 used longer cause (blown up sitting....). Car dealer pull the same scare tactics which are BS. IF any engine fails ALL dealers will pull a UOA to see what is up; as I have stated for like 4 years on this forum. Manufactures trust customers zero.

Amsoil cost me $29 plus $10 for a filter. And it last me 1 year (and UOA prove it works very well).:cheers:

I hope to hell you are not tossing $30 down the drain every 4 to 5K miles. If you are doing that, use the cheapest oil you can find and do not test. You will not like it.

No matter what the cause, if your motor breaks down and you haven't been following the recommended oil change frequencies you're going to be in for a world of grief getting the problem resolved, rightly or not. I'd say most times it's going to be a fight.

I've been doing the oil changes the same way for going on 50 years and I ain't about to change now. Always used Castrol back in the day and Castrol Synthetic Blend nowadays.

While you recommend your practice for cars still in warranty, I don't. Better safe than sorry can sometimes save a lot of hassle.

Happy New Year. :cheers:

Posted

Again what they state in the manual is just as you state "recommended". This is an old debate and holds little marit. It does not say you MUST do anything. Again, I still have yet to see anything happen using Amsoil, Redline etc. They work but people are affraid. I have posted pix of under my valve cover on my car and it is clean. The internals are great lookfor doing over 12,000 mile intervals (and you could never tell). I can go longer and will be doing that based on UOA.

So you pay $29 for a blend (group 3) oil? Dude, you are getting ripped off. IF you have an issue, slips mean nothing since it proves nothing. The factory will pull a UOA as I stated for years; nothing new.

For me, I state what UOA prove (real world safe) and not a manual written for add in the manufacure (added fluff). Again these manuals are built FOS and $$$$; not what is real world. PLus Toyota is still way behind the times on oil. Have been for years.

If you like what you are doing great. For me I want the least amount of wear etc and most bang for the $$$. I put little faith in manuals from manufactures since I know what goes into them.

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