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Caliper Bolts


nc211

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I've tried twice to replace the front rotors, and both times I've been unable to loosen the two caliper bolts. My indi shop mechanic said he loosened them for me the other day, but still can't get those boogers to budge. Am I missing something here? Are they reverse threaded or something?

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those things are just on there real tight i broke a ratchet one tie trying to get those bolts off, finally i hit it with some wd-40 and a breaker bar and loosened it on the first try

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Yeah, dang I swear it those things are tighter than the control arm bushings bolts. I did the rear rotors just fine, but good lord the fronts are welded on there. I even used a floor jack to try and turn the wrench, no luck. I hate to pay the mechanic to change out the rotors for me since it's so easy to do, but I don't think my shade-tree mechanic tool set can get this one done. I hate being defeated, but I gotta call this one.

also, I'm curious, can a person buy just the shim kit for the front pads? When I had the pads changed "before I knew how to do it myself" they tossed out the shims with the old pads and just threw in the new ones. Now they bang around in the seats.

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Yes you can buy just the shim kit .

I would spray some pb blaster and let it soak a few days and hit it again before attempting to remove the bolts.

Make usre you wire wheel the caliper studs to prevent them from seizing from heat.

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Thanks SK! But you lost me on the wire wheel part and seizing up from the heat? Do you mind explaining to me a little bit more? :cheers:

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I have a dual bench grinding wheel so after i remove any brake and suspension bolt i take the wire wheel side of it to remove any corrosion that has built up. This makes it easier to reinstall and remove next time.

The heat just increases the severity of the seized bolt faster.

Which is why suspension and brake components should always be lubed and cleaned before reinstall.At least i always do to save my hands and !Removed! from me kicking myself later from not cleaning them before.

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i got a question myself for both of you i just recieved my crossdrilled/slotted rotors i ordered off ebay but they dont come with the 2 screws that hold the rotor onto the steering knuckle. the problem is the ones that are on the car now are partially stripped so i want to get new screws and wheel studs for all the wheels. i know i can get studs from any auto store, but what about those little screws? what size are they?

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I don't know if the screws are flat head or phillips, but what you need is an impact screw remover. They sale them at sears, harbor freight tools, etc. Basically you hit the end of the handle with a hammer and it provides torque to remove the screws. Motorcycle folks have used them for years. You can usually pick one up for less than $10. Please note: The bits on the driver are usually held on with a socket adapter, remove the adadpter and you have a 3/8 or 1/2 inch socket end which you can put sockets on and attack the other problem of the bolts not coming loose. Great tool to have in you tool box, all manual, but very effective for hard to remove fasteners.

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Ohhh man...I just had to go through that myself! I went through lowes for like an hour looking for them...yes, they strip out EASILY!! I ended up buying some from the dealership...at $2 a screw "those b*stards" I bought 10 of them just incase I stripped out one or two...which i did. I remember some of the sizes...6m size, 12 thread count, and I think a 1 was in there somewhere. Man if you were in my neck of the woods I'd give you my spares. They are sooooo soft that any kind of power screwdriver will strip them in a heart beat. But the dealership has tons of them on hand.

edit: I have had to use those stripped out screw remover bits from sears to get mine out. You basically put it on the drill, press hard against the screw and it will eventually back the screw out.

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I would buy all major bolts from Lexus as they will be hardened steel compared to softer versions from a hardware store.

They only seem soft because of the torque needed on a small surface face.

BTW use anti seize on the rotors holding screws.

You actually do not have to install them it just helps alleviate some chances of vibration.

I am interested in why you want to change your studs on your car SHA?

Replacement studs are not the easiest thing to get or remove/install as you pretty much need to press them out .

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If you are talking about loosening the bolts that hold the caliper on, it is easy. Stick a half inch drive on a breaker bar and a 6 point socket over them, then slip a long peice of pipe or conduit over the shaft of the braker bar. At this point a 90lb. weakling can break it loose. The heat seems to really tighten them.

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I would buy all major bolts from Lexus as they will be hardened steel compared to softer versions from a hardware store.

They only seem soft because of the torque needed on a small surface face.

BTW use anti seize on the rotors holding screws.

You actually do not have to install them it just helps alleviate some chances of vibration.

I am interested in why you want to change your studs on your car SHA?

Replacement studs are not the easiest thing to get or remove/install as you pretty much need to press them out .

thanks for the help guys i figured i would have to go to the dealer. SK ive broke a couple of the studs while tightening the lugs which is my fault b/c i have a torquewrench but i try not to use it for all bolts(stupid i know)so i thought i would just change them all.its pretty easy all you have to do is bang them out with a hammer then bang the new one in a little and use the lug nut to bring it all thevway through. ive done this already but then i broke some more studs. i have to learn not to overtighten :chairshot:

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My problem is the angle of attack. I can't get directly under the car, just next to it with the floor lift. I can't get my breaker bar to fit in there correctly. I think the heat has done it's job on these and really has those suckers on there.

If you are talking about loosening the bolts that hold the caliper on, it is easy.  Stick a half inch drive on a breaker bar and a  6 point socket over them, then slip a long peice of pipe or conduit over the shaft of the braker bar.  At this point a 90lb. weakling can break it loose.  The heat seems to really tighten them.

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well i had to throw in the towel and a C' note to the mechanic today for install of the rotors. Just couldn't get those bolts loose on my own. I think the new rotors might have fixed the wobble. They atleast lessened it, that I can tell already.

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Sorry sha

i did my studs last night as part of my spacer kit.

Those studs as easier than any other stud i have ever taken out .

So with the small amount of force used with the nut on the end of the stud to flatten the pressure it was fine.So i doubt it will cause abs or bearing failures.

I might not reccomend changing studs more than once max twice as the hub material did shear off quite easily on install which reduces the clamping pressure holding the studs. This combined with some mechanic and an over torqued air gun means more than a few hours trying to get a wheel off.

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