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Posted

:( Well, had a small puddle this weekend in my driveway, twice. It's pretty clear in nature, like water, but has an oily feel to it. But this morning the leak was bigger so I dabbed it with a white paper towel, and it has some red in it. It's coming from the front engine area. When I looked under the car, I could see where it is dripping off of the back of the plastic undercover. It's at my indi shop now. I'm hoping it's just a radiator hose that's gone bad. Any suggstions? Would a bad water pump do this as well? Remember when I posted up that the dealership did not put that sticker on my car when they did the 90k service for the timing belt and water pump? But they did invoice those parts and filled in my owners manual that it was done. I'm wondering if.......

Posted

I think you're right. My money is on a worn out hose or clamp. Now if it were at the dealership, i'm sure it would be radiator, powersteering pump and rack. Hahaha. I'll post up when I hear back from the mechanic.

Posted

When you say it had an oily feel, that would make me think ps fluid. I would have sworn you said that you said you were leaking ps fluid in a previous post. How's the water temp gauge?

Take this with a grain of salt, but a Lexus salesman once told me that dealers don't really stamp the records (I guess a sticker could fall in to this category) anymore since a car's service history can be pulled at any dealership.

Posted

I thought steering related as well due to that funky wobble thing, maybe rack related. I haven't had any leaks to date, but heh, it's a Monday, no better day to start with a problem right! I'm not sure where to check the water temp reading, unless you mean the temp needle on the dash, and it's fine. It's always in the middle, never moves but maybe a hair up or down.

I really don't think the dealership screwed me over on this, especially after the near lawsuit I threatened them with over the ECU under their 90 day / 3,000 warranty. I think I made my point crystal clear to them to walk the straight line with me. So I don't think they would intentionally screw me over like that. But if they did, if the mechanic comes back today and says my water pump is worn out, then god help ***** Lexus of Raleigh, because nobody else will be able to once I'm done with them.

Posted

it sounds like it may be ps fluid. could also be some tranny fluid, it's red also, or the coolant? damn toyota and all these red fluids

Posted
it sounds like it may be ps fluid. could also be some tranny fluid, it's red also, or the coolant? damn toyota and all these red fluids

when you said clear, you had me worried. becuase the only fluid i know of that is clear when it goes in is DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid. but then you said a reddish tint, and im thjing poer steering or transmission. however, on an LS, its hard to imagine trans fluid in that area.

Posted

Funny you mention brake fluid. Two weekends ago I pulled the front pads off and cleaned everything with cleaner. There was sooooo much grease put on them from my indi shop that it was causing problems. I had to press back the pistons to get the pads back in. Do you think I might have broke something by pressing the pistons back?

PS: Army, my suspension parts are awesome man, thanks for that hookup!

Posted

Well they just called and said they could not find any leaks other than normal ac condensation. I find this a bit strange since we've cooled off down here recently and I haven't been using my a/c that much. Maybe I just didn't notice the drip spot on the driveway until now thinking it was just normal old a/c condensation. The drip is coming from the driver's side of the front part of the engine compartment. He said he pressurized it up the left, down the right and couldn't find any leaks. It was a water looking fluid with a very very faint hint of red. Maybe the red came off the concrete from a prior leak from a different car. Who knows man, who knows. Like my wobble situation that nobody can seem to figure out, I'm just going to drive it until the problem gets bad enough to show itself.

Posted

I don't live all that far from Raliegh and I KNOW we are having very humid nights. I know a couple of my cars are very wet in the morning due to the 100% humidity. I think you made the correct call.

VBdenny

Posted

Yeah, that's what the shop told me last night too. I'll just sit tight and see if it's anything. Going to change the front rotors tonight and see if that fixes the wobble. I know they're a little bit warped and rubbing the pads slightly. It just might be slightly enough to cause the wobble. Funny, it's only apparent at city speeds, not freeway.

I love good indi shops! Man, that place took all day inspecting my car, loosened up the caliper bolts for me so I could change the rotors myself and checked the alignment again, all for $30. If I had gone to the dealership, it would have been $250.

I don't live all that far from Raliegh and I KNOW we are having very humid nights.  I know a couple of my cars are very wet in the morning due to the 100% humidity. I think you made the correct call.

VBdenny

Posted

you know that the coolant is mixed with water, and stock coolant is red. personally i used the prestone yellow stuff but it does look like yellow oil mixed with water?

also my coolant started removing itself one day, the temp got too hot and the cap that doesn't fully remove with the wires attached started pumpin out fluid? of course i added more immediatly but that was removed also, and during this my coolant light never came on but the coolant temp changed from just above the second line to being consistantly on the third line? maybe your lex is just removing some unnecessary fluid?

just my thoughts! :cheers:

Posted

I shared the same thought. :cheers:

I'm sure if it's the coolant, it won't cause a problem until I'm hundreds of miles away from home, broke, stuck out in the sticks. Hahaha

you know that the coolant is mixed with water, and stock coolant is red. personally i used the prestone yellow stuff but it does look like yellow oil mixed with water?

also my coolant started removing itself one day, the temp got too hot and the cap that doesn't fully remove with the wires attached started pumpin out fluid? of course i added more immediatly but that was removed also, and during this my coolant light never came on but the coolant temp changed from just above the second line to being consistantly on the third line? maybe your lex is just removing some unnecessary fluid?

just my thoughts!  :cheers:

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Looks like it's coming from my passenger side inner tie rod boot. did it again today, twice, and badly. took pictures, will post them later. If it were coolant....wouldn't the plastic engine cover under the car be wet at all? I checked all edges...dry. Looked through the engine bay with flashlight....dry. tie rod boot was wet right at the seal seat next to the rack housing.


Posted

Right, it's not the shock. This leak is more centered under the car, a good 12 to 18 inches away from the shock. It's right up against the rack housing tube on the passenger side. SK, can you recommend anything else I should do while I'm down there? I've replaced the rack mounts already. Any other internal rubber cushions or such I should buy for the rack / tie rods?

Posted

my wobble was caused by torn rear carrier bushings. it was causing one of the rear wheels to do little loop de loops every now and then. mostly though, it was causing clunking noise. not sure if this is what you are experiencing of course, but check carrier bushings?

Well they just called and said they could not find any leaks other than normal ac condensation. I find this a bit strange since we've cooled off down here recently and I haven't been using my a/c that much. Maybe I just didn't notice the drip spot on the driveway until now thinking it was just normal old a/c condensation. The drip is coming from the driver's side of the front part of the engine compartment. He said he pressurized it up the left, down the right and couldn't find any leaks. It was a water looking fluid with a very very faint hint of red. Maybe the red came off the concrete from a prior leak from a different car. Who knows man, who knows. Like my wobble situation that nobody can seem to figure out, I'm just going to drive it until the problem gets bad enough to show itself.

Posted

Here are the pictures of what I see...and one of my car in general after a bath. I could not see the tranny pan from the ground, but did take a pictures. I put my hand on the plug and it did not feel wet at all, but the picture looks like it is.

EDIT: I updated these with captions to point out what I see. :geek:

post-15797-1130766717_thumb.jpg

post-15797-1130766823_thumb.jpg

post-15797-1130766835_thumb.jpg

post-15797-1130796171_thumb.jpg

post-15797-1130796188_thumb.jpg

post-15797-1130796213_thumb.jpg

post-15797-1130796241_thumb.jpg

post-15797-1130796252_thumb.jpg

Posted

You know more about mainatance on an LS than i do as i just joined this part of the club.

The pics have alot of shadow so i am not sure which part is wet or not.

When you have an od leak i like to degrease the engine and then look for it since it will pin point much quicker.

Posted

nc211, I recommend you loosen the clamp of the steering rack boots on both the right and left side and push back the boots. The area inside the boot should be dry (and you will get to see first hand what your inner tie rod looks like). If you have oil inside there then it is your rack leaking. That's what it looks like from the pictures you've taken. Let us know what you find.

Posted

Yeah, I think when i buy the new inner tie rods, i'm going to order the rubber seals, stopper(s) and such. I've got a feeling the previous owner had a few curb checks with the car. I'm actually sort of looking forward to doing this. I have a feeling once I'm in there, I'm going to find some worn out rubber seals and guides. I'm setting aside $300 for parts. $200 for the actual tie rods, and $100 for fluids, rubber parts, tools that I can't rent, and of course beer.

Posted

nc211, the seals that would be leaking are inside the rack assembly (at the ends), this is going to be one tough job because I think you will need to remove and disassemble the rack to be able to get to these seals. I don't think this can be done on the vehicle (but I could be wrong on this). Also, remove the clamp and push back the boots to check the inner tie rods because I really doubt that they need to be replaced. Are you sure you want to mess with this!! I know someone who has been driving their vehicle with a leaking rack seal for two years and the only thing they have been doing is adding PS fluid just occasionally. With the money you have set aside for this job you can buy a rebuilt rack and believe me this would tons easier. Good luck.

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