Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey All,

I've been getting some pretty poor gas mileage, and as a result, I've changed my oil, fuel filter, pcv valve and gromet, am changing tranny fluid as I type, and would also like to change my fuel filter (as I hear that can help). I asked a guy I know who is pretty good with motors, but he said the process is too difficult for him to do? Is this true, can I do this myself or should I leave it to a pro. If it's do-able, can anyone tell me how to change it?

Thanks in advance!

Posted
Hey All,

I've been getting some pretty poor gas mileage, and as a result, I've changed my oil, fuel filter, pcv valve and gromet, am changing tranny fluid as I type, and would also like to change my fuel filter (as I hear that can help). I asked a guy I know who is pretty good with motors, but he said the process is too difficult for him to do? Is this true, can I do this myself or should I leave it to a pro. If it's do-able, can anyone tell me how to change it?

Thanks in advance!

In addition to changing the fuel filter which is a good idea, when was the last time you changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, had a fuel injector flush & changed the air filter? They will all help improve fuel economy. B) Also make sure tire pressure is correct. ;)

:cheers:

Posted
Hey All,

I've been getting some pretty poor gas mileage, and as a result, I've changed my oil, fuel filter, pcv valve and gromet, am changing tranny fluid as I type, and would also like to change my fuel filter (as I hear that can help). I asked a guy I know who is pretty good with motors, but he said the process is too difficult for him to do? Is this true, can I do this myself or should I leave it to a pro. If it's do-able, can anyone tell me how to change it?

Thanks in advance!

I know when I did my 98 es, the fuel filter took about 25 minutes....very easy

Posted

If your friend who is good with motors says it is too hard ,then either he has no idea about the engien or you shouldn't let him near your car.

The fuel filters usually last forever as they are huge and located under the brake booster.

Posted

Well I'm assuming that my fuel filter has never been changed...and there are 140k miles on the car so it should probably be done. I really need to know HOW to do it, because I've never done this before. Also, as far as I know the spark plugs haven't been changed, I would have no clue how to do this either, and I'm going to add some fuel system cleaner today at the gas station.

Posted
Well I'm assuming that my fuel filter has never been changed...and there are 140k miles on the car so it should probably be done. I really need to know HOW to do it, because I've never done this before. Also, as far as I know the spark plugs haven't been changed, I would have no clue how to do this either, and I'm going to add some fuel system cleaner today at the gas station.

As SK stated they are most time lifetime filters. I changed mine since it was like $25 for an OEM filter. I will not be doing it again I think. It was only two 10mm bolts and two fuel lines. Very very simple; installed from underneath. Also I must agree that if someone thinks it is hard to change it, we gonna have problems. It is as simple as rotating tires.

The spark plugs are original??? wow, you should change them every 60K miles and with wires. I know I did my wires in about 30 minutes and that was with some Corona time....:)

So far all simple things and prices online are very good.

Posted

Would it be possible to get some detailed instructions on how to change the spark plugs? I don't know where they are, tools needed to change them, or really anything about the wires. I know this sounds pretty lame but I'm a novice when it comes to working on cars. Pictures would be nice if possible!!!

Posted

Buy a haynes manual.

Changing the fuel filter IMHO wouldn't solve the problem.

Take the entire upper intake air chamber off and clean it (and the throttlebody). The EGR carbon buildup is extreme. Enough to cause problems, along with loose 5-10hp after only 6-9 months without a cleaning.

While it's off, replace the spark plugs with the typical, cheap NGK 6779's found at autoparts stores. They cost $1, and no more than $1.50 a piece.

When you've done this, reset the ECU by pulling the EFI fuse out, and replacing it. (The TCCU-ECU will reset instantly... You don't need to wait)

Posted
Buy a haynes manual.

Changing the fuel filter IMHO wouldn't solve the problem.

Take the entire upper intake air chamber off and clean it (and the throttlebody). The EGR carbon buildup is extreme. Enough to cause problems, along with loose 5-10hp after only 6-9 months without a cleaning.

While it's off, replace the spark plugs with the typical, cheap NGK 6779's found at autoparts stores. They cost $1, and no more than $1.50 a piece.

When you've done this, reset the ECU by pulling the EFI fuse out, and replacing it. (The TCCU-ECU will reset instantly... You don't need to wait)

Why not use Denso Iridium plug's as most on this forum like and work very well? To me putting in a cheap plug in a $35K car is well, crazy. Buy the best you can since it is a Lexus, not a ford! :)

I am not by anymeans disrespecting ANYONE here, but you want a novice to take apart a throttlebody here? Little more complex then a fuel filter my friend. Hell, I most likey would not even try that unless I HAD to. Lets try the simple and less complex things first. "Must start out small grasshopper" .:)

Posted
Buy a haynes manual.

Changing the fuel filter IMHO wouldn't solve the problem.

Take the entire upper intake air chamber off and clean it (and the throttlebody). The EGR carbon buildup is extreme. Enough to cause problems, along with loose 5-10hp after only 6-9 months without a cleaning.

While it's off, replace the spark plugs with the typical, cheap NGK 6779's found at autoparts stores. They cost $1, and no more than $1.50 a piece.

When you've done this, reset the ECU by pulling the EFI fuse out, and replacing it. (The TCCU-ECU will reset instantly... You don't need to wait)

Why not use Denso Iridium plug's as most on this forum like and work very well? To me putting in a cheap plug in a $35K car is well, crazy. Buy the best you can since it is a Lexus, not a ford! :)

I am not by anymeans disrespecting ANYONE here, but you want a novice to take apart a throttlebody here? Little more complex then a fuel filter my friend. Hell, I most likey would not even try that unless I HAD to. Lets try the simple and less complex things first. "Must start out small grasshopper" .:)

I have to agree with you mburn! For a little more complicated service like that, I'd leave it up to a qualified tech to do. Just my 2 cents.

:cheers:

Posted
I am not by anymeans disrespecting ANYONE here
Is the moderation staff so anally over-tightened on this forum you even have to consider saying that!? You're stating your opinion, and trying to help someone at the same time. Anyone offended by that is simply ignorant...
Why not use Denso Iridium plug's as most on this forum like and work very well? To me putting in a cheap plug in a $35K car is well, crazy. Buy the best you can since it is a Lexus, not a ford!
Hmmmm... From the light reading I've done, this is the common attitude here.

Look... Unlike non drivers, I do believe anyone with experience in a Camry, that drives an ES 300 will realize, it's the exact same car, but 100% different. That being said (For no reason other than to cover my own !Removed!...)

It may have been a $38,000USD car when it was bought. That doesn't change the fact that it's 100% an $800 engine, built by Toyota, and up until the last few years, with that same $800 engine having parts built/designed by Yamaha.

Here why I don't advocate using iridium plugs:

(From here on out, interchange NGK and the equivalent denso plug. They cost the same, and the OEM / dealers use both. Normally the NGK plugs as their bulk cheaper)

1) In these engines, the chances of iridium reaching their full life at 80-100,000 miles, at their highest performance level is slim. The carbon buildup is massive, along with carbon comes extreme heat build-up.

2) Iridium plugs often cost $15 a plug. NGK 6779, 5672's, and the Denso equivalents are normally found for $1 a plug. If you were just completely wasteful, and anal about it, that's 15 plug changes for the same cost.

3) Toyota v6's, and v8's all come from the factory with either NGK 6779's. All i4's have the basic 6779 plug, with a V-crimp in the electrode (5672 plug).

4) Toyota specifies these $1 spark plugs (twenty cents for them) to be changed at 60,000 miles...

5) When they are changed, the same thing is re-installed unless they can talk you into buying an iridium plug! Yes... No dealer uses Denso plugs, they ALL use NGK 6779's.

The common trend here seems to be "Replace with the most expensive part available". I'm also assuming "The OEM knows best" attitude is also the most prevalent.

Well by that logic, then Lexus does know best, so why do they factory install, and continue to use these bottom end NGK plugs throughout your car's life? Because they're cost effective, and work well over their life. Do they last for 60,000 miles? The vast majority of the time that, or over. While being 1/5th the cost of a platinum plug. (Which are said to last 60,000 miles also... Rip-off)

Hell, I most likely would not even try that unless I HAD to. Lets try the simple and less complex things first. "Must start out small grasshopper" .
That's you. He has ben told the small things to do. Even if they wouldn't result in poor fuel economy (not bashing anyone, but not everything specified in this thread is going to cause a rich A/F ratio, or incomplete combustion.)
but you want a novice to take apart a throttlebody here? Little more complex then a fuel filter my friend.
Yes... I do. We've had dozens of people not particularly mechanically inclined do it at Toyota Nation. Surely by logic, since we all have $35,000 cars, then we have the best tools money can buy also! LoL! Juuuust a joke...

Yes I expect him to do it... If you can change a fuel filter this is the next step in mechanical complexity. Fuel filters are not always easy to change either. Most of the time it's done from an awkward position, and you work with frozen parts.

Maybe you in vision him rebuilding a carb? It's not even close to that.

The entire Upper Intake is held on by two 14mm nuts, and two allen bolts...

IAC-ACIS.jpg

1) Remove the air cleaner&IAC hose

2) Remove throttle cable and transmission kick-down cable

3) Remove electrical connector for TPS, IAC/ISC

4)*Remove brake booster line

5)*Remove PVC hose

6)*Remove both EVAP routing hoses (normally found on EGR valve/ISC)

7)*Remove vacuum hose to ACIS

8)*Remove 3 EGR/EVAP control plugs from throttlebody if installed

9) Remove and plug coolant inlet

10) Remove and plug coolant exit

11) Remove two, 12mm bolts holding EGR pipe to the intake

12) Lift upper intake-air chamber assembly of fthe Intake manifold. The gasket is metal, no need to replace

If a 2/3vz-fe remove two 10mm nuts holding Cold-start injector in, and swing the injector around out of the way

*Denotes empty hoses

If you can change a fuel filter, why be scared of:

2 nuts

2 allen bolts

2 normal bolts

2 electrical plugs

and a few hoses... Only two of which even have a fluid in them. (And if not plugged, will only leak a few cups if you take your cooling caps off to release pressure)

What's to be scared of? You're dealing with a 15lb slug of aluminum...

You only have to pull the intake connecting side of the hoses, and they're all formed. Even if you don't label them, they're going to fall back into place. If you do label them... Pen + masking tape + extra 5 min. Not exactly complicated.

That is something everyone on this forum should do anyways... You loose 5-10 horsepower, and the resulting economy from simple carbon build-up from the EGR as it progressively cakes the entire intake track in 6-9 months from a fresh cleaning.

Think 5 or 10 horsepower across the entire range doesn't mean anything? At 60mph, a 92-96 (also the most aerodynamic of the ES's so far) loose 10 horsepower to aerodynamic drag. 16hp at 70mph. Highway cruising, and city acceleration can both be greatly affected by a 10 horsepower loss (or GAIN)

The MZ-FE family is horrible with carbon build-up. The ECU controlled EGR runs too often, and under too many circomstances. What the earlier ones build-up in a year and a half or two, the MZ's can build up in half the time.

While you have it off... You can take an air-grinder, or dremel and do what I tell you.

The intake splits into a top / bottom sides immediately behind the throttle body. Top feeds the rear head, bottom feeds the front head. When you take the throttlebody off and look, the split is a 1/2" flat face. That's not aerodynamic in the least bit... By simply grinding that flat face into a sharp point (takes 2-3 min with a dremel and cheap grinding stone) you can gain a few top end horsepower, some slightly throttle responce. Not much... but it's something simple to do, works, and the intake is all-ready off... You're a fool if you don't do it at the same time!

Sound complicated??? Grind the only flat face you see, into a sharp point. Still sound complicated? I hope not.

Posted
Is the moderation staff so anally over-tightened on this forum you even have to consider saying that!? You're stating your opinion, and trying to help someone at the same time. Anyone offended by that is simply ignorant...

Not that its any of your business but no, the moderating staff here is pretty laid back as they go. He's simply doing his best to make sure there are no misunderstandings since he's been involved in misunderstandings before. Whats wrong with that? Also whats wrong with either ignoring his comment or simply saying "No offense taken" or "Why would I take offense to that?" Why do you have to automatically put everyone else on the defensive?

If you want to lord your knowledge over everyone else here like they're 12 years old, hit the highway. Either share your knowledge to be helpful or don't share it at all.

This is the second time I've had to tell you this...in two days...and only 8 posts. The third time will be the last time.

Posted

Well what exactly, am I suppose to do. I obviously can't say anything to anyone. The both of you make up 2/3 of the Owners's here, and obviously you have no love lost with me.

Let's start with the first thread. OK Fine... I was wrong for jumping all over the sources for the FAQ. In my defense; How about looking closer, before judging me???

I *NEVER* said SK was an idiot, or any other such thing. He simply wrote the FAQ and posted it. I have no idea where he got his information in 2003, but obviously some of it is wrong, or subject to interpretation.

I've written plenty of long things (You can see. I just copied a handful over), and spent a lot of time doing so also. It would be ignorant to call someone that obviously spent a lot of time working on something a dumb !Removed!. That was not my intent with the FAQ correctino post...

Have you tried looking at that from the other side?

"Quite interesting , the reason you are so knowledgeable in all of this is..........."

Look... I'm a light hearted guy, but IMHO that's a very smart-!Removed! comment. Here's youre distinct differance.

I cited his sources. He's talking about me.

On this thread.

"Not that its any of your business but no, the moderating staff here is pretty laid back as they go."

I'm very glad to hear it! Keep in mind... Like he said, this is my ninth post. Tho I have been back reading to see what's common on LOC (Why do you think my first post was correcting the FAQ?), my personal experience all ready is that the place is up tight. Along from reading back in posts.

So obviously, that is my mis understanding. I'm sorry.

"Why do you have to automatically put everyone else on the defensive?"
No one should be on the defensive. A question was asked on this thread, we all are giving our opinions and suggestions on how to help the poster.

mburnickas simply asked me why I didn't suggest using iridium plugs. Also why I think that someone that just changed their fuel filter, and is doing light troubleshooting on that particular car for the first time, should take the upper portion of their intake off.

I answered...

I wouldn't know if SK is on the defensive... He never had a reply, nor have we spoken since the "Quite interesting , the reason you are so knowledgeable in all of this is..........." post. I remember us always getting along on CL. I see no reason that shouldn't continue...

Anyways. I'm sorry for all the misunderstandings. No hard feelings...

I hate things drifting so far off topic. Feel free to PM me, or contact me with the information in my sig if you wish to talk about it.

Posted
Well what exactly, am I suppose to do. I obviously can't say anything to anyone.

Behave like you're walking on eggs, that's what, if you want to survive here. In the past 45 days both wwest and myself were banned for 2 weeks by 23 year old SWO3ES. Use the Search function to study the posts wwest and myself made in the past 45 days to see what "offenses" got us banned and adjust your behavior accordingly or face permanent banning.

Posted

I see nothing really that bad about Toysrme's posts. A little trash talking happens and if no profanity or racial abuse is used, I will not be offended. Otherwise, his posts are EXTREMELY informative and I'm glad he has brought all his knowledge to this forum.

Posted
Well what exactly, am I suppose to do. I obviously can't say anything to anyone.

Behave like you're walking on eggs, that's what, if you want to survive here. In the past 45 days both wwest and myself were banned for 2 weeks by 23 year old SWO3ES. Use the Search function to study the posts wwest and myself made in the past 45 days to see what "offenses" got us banned and adjust your behavior accordingly or face permanent banning.

You know exactly what offenses earned you your two week ban Monarch, and you were warned and warned beforehand about your continued attacks upon another member of this site.

As for my age, if thats the only ammunition you have against me I suppose I should be flattered. Ignore the fact that aside from the fact that I personally own and run three businesses I devote part of what little time I have left over to helping to grow this site and making sure that its a friendly and enjoyable for our members. It is not your playground to spit in the face of whomever you choose, from whichever of the two login names you posess. For those who have the home game, users Monarch and VGR are the same person, they share consecutive IP addresses regularly. We've chosen not to act on that (I believe CL bans people on the spot with no warning that have and use multiple handles) at this time, but since he's seen fit to try and ridecule me I see no reason to hide that any longer.

Somehow the other 18000 members here get along just fine. Why is it you, you, and wwest (maybe he's you too!), both of which have already been banned by our esteemed counterpart ClubLexus for the same problems we've been TRYING to work with you on here to allow you to stay do all of the complaining and have all the problems? Why is that? Tell us.

Why don't you tell everyone how I personally contacted you, told you EXACTLY what our problems were with your behavior and told you exactly what you needed to do to avoid being banned and you made the choice to ignore that information.

Why don't you share the info about how I personally invited wwest here after his being banned from CL and even campaigned to have him named a moderator because of his expertise. You see what that got us.

Why dont you tell them who'se been banned perminantly from the site, one person. Why dont you tell them how long it had been before your and wwest's bans that someone else on the site had been banned for 2 weeks. A long time.

Why dont you give them ALL the information?

I'd invite you to go somewhere else, but you dont have anywhere else to go. Apparently I've learned more in my 24 years about burning bridges than you have in your however many I don't care.

So, take that information and decide if its REALLY that easy to get banned here.

Well what exactly, am I suppose to do. I obviously can't say anything to anyone. The both of you make up 2/3 of the Owners's here, and obviously you have no love lost with me.

I dont have a problem with you at all, I don't even know you save for the fact that you come in here and spend 3/4 of your first 8 posts slamming respected members of our community. Don't do that, and share your information (as you have already in the ES section since your last posting here, which I applaud). I suspect we've all gotten off on the wrong foot, and hope it can improve from here on out.

I know you have been banned from forums in the past, as I did with wwest and monarch after they were banned from ClubLexus I welcome you here to try and enjoy the site and contribute to the site as long as you do it with the same tact everyone else here does. So far this approach for me has been 0 for 2 for me, do me a favor and change the trend.


Posted

The inside of a never cleaned 1mz-fe's upper intake, and ACIS flap (the varriable intake portion)

I still say if he cleans all the carbon out, it probably will get better, if not go away.

Intake-Carbon.jpg

ACIS-Build-up.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership


  • Unread Content
  • Members Gallery