joshy0077

Hey All, Just looking at my wheels makes me disgusted...is there anything I can do to take the rust of the rotors and calipers, or do I need to go out and buy new ones...I was thinking of sandblasting them, but wasn't sure if the sand would adversely affect the brake system. Not ever doing this before, can I take the parts off individually and hit them hard with sanding? Also, any recommendations on paint? And can I paint the center caps? The "alloy" color is flaking off on some caps.

still wondering if anyone can tell me what this is. It is located in the rear of the car close to the driver's side attached to what I believe is the strut bar? Not too sure but it seems very noisey.

One more quick question... After looking for prices online, I saw many different kinds of sensors...and I didn't know which to buy, is my car California Emission or Federal/Canada Emission? How can I tell which it is? I found both O2 sensors...which I feel pretty good about :D , but now I just need to find out which ones to buy. It looks like it could be very difficult to install the rear sensor from the top of the engine..but maybe going from underneath is easier?

Hey Toys, thanks a lot for the help! You're engine is so clean looking...how'd you do that?

Can I take the keys to a local locksmith to be cut, also, do you remember what ebay member you bought them off of? I saw a single transponder key on ebay that was going for about $50...however it was already cut to fit another car...I wasn't sure whether or not they can swap out just the key part, and what all would be needed to program it to my car. Thanks for the reply!

Any chance you can draw a quick arrow on that picture so I can get an idea as to where the sensor is? When I asked about the store vs. online, I just was wondering whether the price was so much less online that it would be worth it to buy it from there, or if the price that an autoparts store offered was a good price. Thanks again!

Just wanted to see if anyone could answer this, I bought my 92 ES300 and it did not come with a master key, or the remote keys, is it possible to buy a used transponder key from another lexus and transfer it to be used on mine? What would I need to do? I believe when I contacted Lexus about buying a new key they told me it was like $250 or more.

I did the OBD1 procedure, not really sure what its called, bridged the diagnostic fuses with a paper clip, then watched the check engine blinks to get the code.

Hey Toysrme thanks for the quick reply...just a few questions. 1.) I was up at both Autozone and Murray's Disc. Auto and both stores were charging about $90 for the OEM O2 sensor, and Autozone was charging $35 for universal. At Murray's, they had a $90 and a $30 sensor, one was for before cat. converter, one was for after. Which do I need, and should I buy from a store or online? 2.) I'm not sure where exactly the O2 sensors go, any pics on the location? (Sorry if that sounds very inane) 3.) If I do buy the universal O2 sensor, Autozone said I would have to splice the wires and then tape them together...I've never seen an O2 sensor, so are there multiple wires or what? In your pictures it looks like just one wire...but I'm not sure. Thanks again!

Hi all, I just did the engine diagnostic procedure on my 92 ES and found that I apparently have a bad 02 sensor. Check engine light came on a few days ago...now I'd like to fix the problem. Can anyone instruct me on how to go about changing the 02 sensor? I plan on running up to Autozone today to buy a new one. Thanks in advance!

Hi there buddy, I have a 92 ES300 and also failed the CO part emissions test...however, I took it to a mechanic whom my family goes to often, and he did about $200 in service, and claimed he did about $400 on the receipt, afterwards, took the receipt to the emissions testing station (ohio emissions testing, so rules may be different) and they gave me a waiver good for two years. I guess there is a rule that if you spend enough money on the problem and it doesnt get fixed, they waive it? Worked out well for me, maybe you can try the same thing. Good luck!

Hi all, I was just under my car and saw a part/device that I really wasn't sure the purpose of...and also found that it is quite loose (maybe thats how it's supposed to be?) and was wondering if this was the cause of my rear end rattle? Please see attached pics. Also, was wondering if it is okay to sandblast rotors/calipers to make them clean or is there a better way? Also see pics.

Sorry to upset you, I tried searching through the lexus forums and did not see any answers...just some recommendations to buy the repair manual. To clarify, its a 92 es...if that makes any difference. Any detailed help is greatly appreciated...

Hey all, I changed the left head spark plugs not too long ago, as well as the valve gasket, now I need to change the right side...can anyone walk me through how to do this?

Hey I have a 92 ES300 and I just did this little tweak that ToysRMe has been talking about and I also noticed quite an increase in power, and that was just in "normal" mode as opposed to ECT PWR. I just wanted to know what other things can be done to make my car perform better, I too am on a tight budget!

Would it be possible to get some detailed instructions on how to change the spark plugs? I don't know where they are, tools needed to change them, or really anything about the wires. I know this sounds pretty lame but I'm a novice when it comes to working on cars. Pictures would be nice if possible!!!

Well I'm assuming that my fuel filter has never been changed...and there are 140k miles on the car so it should probably be done. I really need to know HOW to do it, because I've never done this before. Also, as far as I know the spark plugs haven't been changed, I would have no clue how to do this either, and I'm going to add some fuel system cleaner today at the gas station.

Hey All, I've been getting some pretty poor gas mileage, and as a result, I've changed my oil, fuel filter, pcv valve and gromet, am changing tranny fluid as I type, and would also like to change my fuel filter (as I hear that can help). I asked a guy I know who is pretty good with motors, but he said the process is too difficult for him to do? Is this true, can I do this myself or should I leave it to a pro. If it's do-able, can anyone tell me how to change it? Thanks in advance!

Hey mxl4729, I got all the wires routed the way I want them I guess...I was scared to drill into the firewall because I wasn't sure where a safe spot might be...so I ran my power line through the wire bundle that was already going through the firewall (next to hood shock on left side). However...I don't know whether my ground is messed up or what, but my amp won't seem to turn on. I ran the ground to a small nut on the back right of the trunk to what looks to be a screw/nut holding in the taillight on that side...I wasn't sure if this was a good idea but I couldn't find any other nut/bolt assemblies to work with as I rushed through this. Any suggestions on a good ground location? Also, I just wanted to make sure I hooked up my power line correctly...I've got a terminal ring around the positive screw rear of the actual terminal, that seems to hold the connection of the power line to the battery. Anyways, thanks a lot!

Hey all, I just wanted to see if anyone had any ideas/instructions on how to route the wires from trunk to batteries in a 92 Es300. I'm planning on putting in subs today...if I can find a good way of doing it. I'd like to not go through the passenger area, because there really isn't anywhere to hide the wires unless there is some way of going under the center console? I wouldn't even know how to do that though. So any help is greatly appreciated!

Hey just wanted to try and clarify something, Are both responses talking about the stock amp in the car, or the one I want to put in? I will try taking out the headunit and checking wiring, but I'm definately looking into a noise filter. Are instructions included as to what wires to connect when you buy one? I see they are color coded but I just wanted to make sure they line up.

Hey all, Thanks so far for the help. I'll try the silicone spray tonight, being that I'm at school, I don't really have the ability to break the car down now and inspect the bushings. One thing I found online was an instruction guide on how to replace the Drive shafts for a Toyota Camry. Can anyone a little more knowlegdable let me know if these instructions will work on my Lexus? It really is suprisingly simple, but still, I would like some expert, or more professional advice. http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?F...23d8015759b.jsp Thanks again!

Hey All, I've had this problem since I had a Sony deck installed in place of the stock Lexus head unit. I have an electrical whining that comes on when the headunit powers on, and changes pitch/frequency when the car accelerates. I just assumed that maybe the power cord to the Sony was running by some power line for the car that gained energy from the alternator. Is there any way to stop this noise? I asked the Bestbuy installers and they said "they couldn't tell me how to do it myself because it should be left to the professionals." I've done some car stereo work before and am pretty sure I can handle this. Also, I'd like to put some subs and an amp in the trunk, any recommendations on how to route the wires without having them exposed? Thanks for your help!

Well I'm not too bad at doing minor things, but I fear messing something up horribly. If I can't figure the job out, I know people who can, I just want to know what to do when I decide to do it. Do you have any more details on how to replace either the axles or the shaft? I don't really have a lift at home so I was planning on just using jack stands, and if the parts come out to only be like $50 less than having the mechanic do it, I will just let the pros do their thing. Anyways, thanks a lot for the fast reply, it is greatly appreciated.

Hey All, I just took my 92 to the shop on Saturday, because I was hearing a clicking/popping noise when I turned. After checking around a little bit on the forum here, I saw a few others who had this problem, but I couldn't pinpoint the noise source. It turns out the the CV boot on my passenger side drive shaft is torn, and all the grease has come out...so the mechanic said I needed a new one. The boot on the driver's side is in very bad shape, however, can apparently be repaired. While he had the car on the rack, I saw that both the boots were indeed in bad shape ( ), however, the connections to the driveshaft did not look all that complicated at all to remove...looked like 6 hex bolts to the body, and I didn't see what all was on the wheel. The Mechanic said it would cost me about $200 for the right side, and $125 for the left...and being a poor college kid...I wanted to know if anyone recommends doing this job as a DIY project? I may be getting a digital camera soon so I may be able to take some pics of the problem eventually. If you have any details/instructions on how I would do this procedure, and what parts I would need, please let me know, it would be greatly appreciated! One more thing before I go, while the mechanic had the car up on the rack, I had him check a rattling noise that was coming from the rear of the car when I went over rough terrain. After manipulating some parts, he showed me that the driver side strut bar (or what I think is the strut bar) was loose, and couldl be rocked back and forth a little bit. Others who had this problem on this forum said they thought it was a bushing that needed greased? However, the mechanic thinks that putting a shim in there would work. Anyone have any recommendations? Also, if you know of a way to do this, please let me know!