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Modifications On A Budget


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ok i love your posts!!! but i have a couple questions.

i have a 1996,how is it different? is it basically the same steps or no? b\c i believe i have a different MAF. also so ure saying to advance my timing i just need to do three clicks right and its safe?

what are the sideeffects. 1.leaner means faster ,but doesnt that also mean runs hotter? and 2. will MPG go up significantly,since a little less fuel is used in every revolution inside th ecyclinder.

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You can't do anything. 1mz-fe is a distributorless ignition, and uses a MAF.

You'd have to buy something like an SMT piggyback to change ignition timing and work on the MAF signal some.

To anyone doing it, the mileage might increase very slightly, but the ECU is still using the o2 sensor to control closed loop mode. (Under 75-80% throttle) So the same amount of gas it still used.

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^ Exactly what he said.

Hey Toysrme, isn't it possible to get the same result (leaning or enriching the mixture) by tightening or loosening the adjusting screw on the AFM. The one that's coverd by the little plastic plug? or do I have to cut off the AFM cover??

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You can't do anything. 1mz-fe is a distributorless ignition, and uses a MAF.

You'd have to buy something like an SMT piggyback to change ignition timing and work on the MAF signal some.

To anyone doing it, the mileage might increase very slightly, but the ECU is still using the o2 sensor to control closed loop mode. (Under 75-80% throttle) So the same amount of gas it still used.

oh :(

well what can i do for my model?? anything ??? all these mods youve been talking about are for the 92-93 i guess. i can see the shifter mod i can still do ,i tried it but felt almost no change,just a slight one.

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The one under the plug? The allen wrench one?

That's the idle air bypass screw. I highly recommend leaving it be as it's quite sensative, and only affects idle.

Here are picts of the screw I'm refering to:

wide:post-2148-1118264042_thumb.jpg

closeup: post-2148-1118266232_thumb.jpg

Excuse the nasty orange silicone. I had to open it b4 to solder a broken lead.

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Hey I have a 92 ES300 and I just did this little tweak that ToysRMe has been talking about and I also noticed quite an increase in power, and that was just in "normal" mode as opposed to ECT PWR. I just wanted to know what other things can be done to make my car perform better, I too am on a tight budget!

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Just a a shout a say I've tried the mod with 3 clicks and I lost power, then i tried it with 1 click and gained slightly, finally as suggested I went to 2 clicks and there's a definite gain high in the power band. What can I do to improve low down??

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I don't mean to argue, but I should explain something.

When you do this, you may well find that the engine will free rev (in N/P) slower than normal. This is because you are taking out some of the rich during throttle transitions. The engine will run very rich when you open the gas to help it's responce. It's one of those wierd times. It may rev slightly slower in park, but once youg et on the road and mash the gas, it will still be faster.

Any insignifigant amount of throttle responce is made up for in spades by doing the timing advance, if you choose to do that.

Improving low down eh? It's hard to do. The cams are set up for great low end performance fomr the factory.

dyno.jpg

Is the famous dyno of a fairly well maintained A/T 3vz-fe.

For the low end there isn't much you can do. You can make the ACIS (varriable intake) activate as soon as you hit the throttle. That will improve the 2000-4000rpm performance, and make the intake louder.

1) Get an aquarium T from wall mart.

2) On top of the throttlebody, there is a vacuum port marked R. Put the T on that port.

3) Under the battery is a vacuum tank. It has two vacuum hoses that run to it. Pull the one closest to the front of the car off.

4) Connect that hose to your T, and connect the other end to the ACIS actuator.

5) There is a small piece of vacuum hose you just took off the ACIS actuator. Screw a screw, or a bolt into the end so it is sealed. Put that on the vacuum tank to seal it (where you just put the hose)

That helps a tiny bit.

Honestly... The VZ block engines have pleanty of low end. (at least for me) They all pull first gear quickly, and when setup right can spin both tires when taking off.

They slow back down because they lack horsepower where they transmission keeps the engine speed. 4500-6000rpm. If you want to be faster/quicker. Spend time working on that high rpm range.

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Help me out a bit here. My intake is JDM so I guess abit different from yours (no EGR). My only labelled vacuum port is port "P" and that goes to the throttle opener. THe other two ports go to the charcoal canister.

Any suggestions would be great.

post-2148-1119128252_thumb.jpg

post-2148-1119128466_thumb.jpg

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k i know ur gonna go 2 visuals next...so heres some suggestions...

subs in the trunk

xenon headlights

body kits

rims

new dash lights

tvs in the back

decals

neon inside

tinting

nav

k i no thats a little outragous 4 visuals but i dont meen put all of em' in there...just a few things....ive always wanted to do these things to my car...dad wont lemme (im still in highshcool)...well actaully i dont even have a job LOL

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I wouldn't let you either.

No offince, but you're more likely to wreck / sell that car and buy something smaller, newer, and ricier.

To each, his own.

If you really like the silly rice stuff like that, ToyotaNation.com, and Solaraguy.com. You'll find millions of friends!

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Nice, thanks.

I'm looking into some Sylvania's for my car, along with a nice medium dark tint for the windows. Also i'm looking for a sub and an amp (if it's necessary). Which i'm sure it is.

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Yes, they cross into most of the 80's-pre'94 vehicles Toyota made. Most of them have EFI ignition through a distributor, and an AFM (instead of a MAF, MAP, or KV).

No, it doesn't work for you. You'd have to find someone to re-work the stock ECU, or install a piggyback<s>.

Yall have a transmission throttle cable if I remember correctly. You can play with that.

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