BALOO BELLE

yeah im anal so i had to fix it when i had my windsheild replaced and they broke the casing. it urks me when your wiper settings are to fast for the amount of rain and the make noise or skip. :P ill look at the broken sensor i saved and see if i can tell which way the casing clips on. there is a wire bracket that is mounted in on the windsheild it hooks into. Im all about the bells and wistles..call me vain but i perfer princess

one corner of mine was moving like the linkage was off when i popped it. i realized when i slid it back that the glass was a little off on one side. i maunally move it back to place but it didnt help. i completely fixed my by mistake and trial and error after that. 1. completely disconnect battery to fully disable the auto function. it will not work if in auto setting. 2. slide roof back and hold the button past the stop point. it will make cloud clicking noise that will scare the crap outta you. click it until it stops. this is the cylindar linkage poping back in place. 3. pop the roof and hold the button the same allow to click til it stops. 4. repeat process back and popping until it stops clacking. usually 3 rotations. i disconnected my batt for someting else lost the auto function and discovered it when i tried to reprogram the auto function. I though i was doing something wrong and didn do the popping procedure. it was working way better so i left it. I realized a few months later after watching an crappy ford moon roof pop smoother that mine. i then purposfully disconntect the auto function and did the above process and my roof works effortlessly. it cost 500$ in labor just to remove the headliner :( so if this works you totally lucked out like I did by mistake.

read the manual there is a section that explains auto and the diff way it controls the setting for the weather outside. if actually pretty interesting.

DO NOT REPLACE THE GLASS UNLESS YOU HAVE TOO!! oem glass cost 1500 for a reason it is the thickest safest glass available. ppg and plinkington are after market and simply DOT safe... ie. maufactured differently (less Cost grade and thickness) all aftermarket are wavy you just have to know what to look for... the waves are from the way the glass is cooled on wire posts like a forklift. hints two verticle waves. aftermarket are not exact replicas but cheap versions. there is so much difference that if you lease a car and replace it with after market they will charge you for it, not take the car, or make you pay to replace w oem you cant tint aftermarketwindsheilds you will get a orange peel dimple apprearance. the only complaint i really have w my ppg is that it is thinner glass and does not block as much noise. and i made the mistake of tinitng it. you can see the waves if you stand far away and look across the glass. it is really the distortion of the light reflection that you see. i can touch mine and feel the waves as i have had a horrible experience replacing it. I have done much research as i was trying to sue the windsheild company that replaced mine.. long story. there are sealant treatments you can try or the have a clear film tint like material for the outside to prevent and seal any damage. make sure you send the money and get OEM seals the aftermarket are loud. if you car is not a show car there is no "everyday" difference in the aftermarket glass if you do have to replace it. but avoid it if you can.

i REPLACED my windsheild and had massive problems. replacing the sensor is about 150$. if you can reach up and touch the sensor and your wipers turn on it is a connection issue. if it is not your fuse try removing the sensor and disconnecting the harness so it is not getting power and clean the sensor and gel pad with a smooth lint free cloth saturated with rubbing alcohol. dont soak it it is electrical... if it just stopped working prob the fuse i would think if no one had messed with it or hit it somehow. to remove it you have to slide the pin out and i believe pull the casing in a downward or upward motion to unhook it. i cant remember which way now. be careful, dont force it. if you break the plastic clips in the casing you have to buy the complete set for $150. aslo if the plastic clips in the casing break the circuit will not complete cause of slack connection of the sensor and the gel pad... hints what the a**hole windshield peop did to mine. PS you can get the sensor through toyota cheaper probably...i think avalons use them..

is there any way to directly search this...is there a DIY forum? Ive searched this twice but it keeps pulling up 20 pages of irrelevant crap! Does anyone have a link to a break down. im trying to get to the gear shift bulb i cant seem to get help on this site...i had more luck on the VW sites.

I WAS LOOKing at it and it seems the wood is clipped to the plastic drawer. Is the wood what I am popping off? If so I can use a eyglass flat head and whittle it loose. SWEET :D OK I got the wood cover off but I see no screws but have access to the bulb...And I am wondering if there is a DIY forum so i can find out how to get the gear shift console apart...if i dont have to break down it completely down

one last bulb to conquer in my interior and it is the damn light in the ash tray. i have recently battled the footwell lighting the bulbs are a single led that is in plastic casing and is simply soddered? to a chip board. i found a place that carries led components so i can do it myself. i have now upgraded all interior to cool white (light blue) leds and exterior marker bulbs to leds... leds are not bright enough in the shapes/sizes needed for the tails. and you would be surprised in the difference that just a new regular bulb makes along w led markers. the bulbs are still original making them about 7 to 8 yrs old and dull my last pain in the !Removed! is the ashtray light. i know someone knows how to remove the drawer. im not talking the removable plastic actual ash tray but the actual drawer..door....or know of a way to get to the bulb. i figure it has to be the same kind of led chip/board. my only worry is scratching the wood :( i choose not to screw around with that area since i have no knowledge on this. PLEASE HELP..theres gotta be a guru on here :P im just a girl and ive made it this far. B) also i think my never used lighter is broken. the exterior metal ring just slides around. it wont stay down to light... ive seen crappy ones at the auto part store... is there an thats not so cheap thats not going to cost 50$ at the dealer?

I am wondering if to change the footwell and interior light settings if I have to hook the car up to a computer or find a program. I read the manual and figured out how to adjust the lock settings but they do not give any short cuts for the keyfob stuff or lighting stuff. Any ways does anyone know where to get the software and what kind. Also does anyone know how to remove or disconnect the foot well lights. I would like to replace the bulbs but the book doesnt give bulb size. I think it might be a single led. Also my windows and sunroof open as programmed with the key fob and key. But is there an option to close them some how. I can not remember if it does. 02 es300 manufacture date 11/01

CV joints are cheap it is the labor that is expensive. you can drive it if you can stand it. but is it a thumping sound or knocking? when my cvs on another car went bad it was a clicking knocking sound

its simple the seats click into place. there are levers that you can push behind the head rests. i think....id have to look to be positive. but you push the buttons to release it and manuver it off. the bottom seat doesnt have levers it just pops out with a stong tug....

check your manual. i changed my settings as the above with the ignition switch on but i dont remeber pushing the back lock button? i though it was only the front but may be diff with each diff setting. you can actually change the when it locks and unlocks. there are two settings for each. locking when the car is started or hits 30mph. and unlocking is when you put the car in park or when you pull the door handle all the doors unlock. you can also change the setting on the remote clicker to unlock all doors when hitting the unlock button once.

my passenger side gets stuck. no blinking lights....are you talking on the actual back seat button maybe a light. all i had to do was hit the door with the side of my fist while holding the down button. the motors get stuck it happens from being locked into the up position to tight. i was told to ever so slightly...you have to play with it...touch the button but do not enguage movement. you can hear the motor click and not see the window move. that is suppose to make the motors last longer and not get stuck

ohhh PRIMACY. thats what I wanted but the pilots for 215-??-16 started at $1,000.00. so i can only imagine the primacy that replaced the energies. I ended up with Yokohamma Avids for $500, i came from yk120s? I preferred the YKs they were a little smoother ride but then agian i ride over the oldest roads ever to get to work and have them filled with nitrogen. I guess the Avids are more performance touring the YKs were touring. All other times they are ok. Ive never had michelins but was told by my personal mechanic he would not put the pilots over the avids. yokos are oem too. and lets face it its not like our cars are new, so as long as you get a michelin equiv you should be ok do stay away from bridge stone turanzas and potenzas they are loud, hydroplane, and have bumpy rides. to get rid of the bumpy ride you have to go to a dealer and get a $100 road force balance. Bridgestones only rated a 5/6. yokos were 7/8 and the pilots 8/9 and primacies 9/10. :D

ACTUALLY, YOU HAVE TO PULL THE ENTIRE BACK SEAT OUT. My ex blew the speaker and had to pull the back seat out to get to it because the nav system blocks it from the trunk and the cover is attached to the support board, it doesnt come off from the top. I did not watch him but with the repair time it is a weekend job. I had to drive around w no back seat for a day to let the glue dry. Im not sure if you have to disconnect the 3rd break and slide the whole rear deck forward and over where the seat should be. I remember it for some reason cause the seat belts run through the deck. Sorry, I cant help more. If you are lucky like I was. It is just the glue dry rotting and disconnecting from the metal frame. Or it could be the fabric that surrounds the speaker that has ripped. he used automotive glue to repair it since it can take the heat from the rear mount and is flexible. i havent had any problems in about 9 months. The sub farted just like it was blown and it was only the glue. However, all my other speakers have paper rattles now. It is only certian songs so maybe the speakers just cant handle certian frequencies. It seems to be stuff like old skool...lynard skynard, CCR, etc stuff with lots of mids. the lady that had the car never adjusted the equalizer or pushed the speakers....and it was from AZ...dry rotted glue!

02-300 inerior and exterior lighting Im looking into upgrading the interior lights to cool white (light blue) LEDs. The one bulb I have questions about is the footwell light...which kinda looks like a single LED but it it seems to be attached to some kind of sliding clip. I just peeped it last night, I havent tried to move it yet... but, does anyone know if this bulb is replacable w a normal bulb or is it a special Lexus part? i believe there is an option to change the foot well lighting..i think i saw it when i read the manual. I changed out the front parking markers through the wheel well. I am finding that there is a connection issue. the LEDS base must be thinner so now 6 months later both bulbs are out from no connection you could see them flicker in and out before. anyone else have a solution maybe try a different brand? i dont have ramps anymore so this will be a project to change them. www.superbrightLEDS.com check this out mad cool LEDS, I upgraded all the exterior markers to LEDs. I do not recommend the super duper LEDs for the brakes or turns, I returned mine they do not compair in strength. However, the markers are way stronger in strength then regular bulbs and change the appearance of the tails! The tail on the trunk lid is a marker bulb but you will need load resitors to change these out or you will get a tail light warning on the dash. brakes regular bulbs fogs - PIA hyper yellows turns - Pia ion ambers, , yellow silver coated, clear lens appearance, hint of yellow at close range. I wanted silverstars for the blue appearance but they do not make them in our size DRLs - Metal Ice?? hyper white with a blue coating. give lens blue appearance and the light from the right angle heads - factory xenons another question I found the 330 tails in led but my car is not wired for leds so they would need load resistors and a regulator so you do not get hyper flash with the turns. and the turns are red. Im a safety girl I like ambers! i really want to get the side mirror covers that have the led turns on them but that means i have to upgrade the tails. and i really have no issues w the tails now that i upgraded the bulds. does any one know where to get the mirror covers w regular bulbs or where the led bulbs that are not visible through the clear lens...maybe some with a reflector lens instead of clear.

you can maintain your lenses (refurbed or not) with some Scratch Dr or any LIGHT abrasive (rubbing compound) that is used to remove swirls and minor scratches in paint. Do NOT use a buffer with it, paper towels works great. Rub in straight lines not circles. My lights were yellowing when I got my car and now they look new from just keeping them up with a scratch remover and keeping a thick coat of wax on them between cleanings. I do not use my DRLs (daytime running lights) this increases the frequency which you have to use the cleaner.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=55191 this is a old thread on the EGR stuff

I just got 4 new Yokohama Avids which are all season tires for about 500$. Thats a good deal since the cheapst michelins were 1,000. My mechanic says that he wouldnt rate Michelins over these tires. Yokos are OEM on this car. I have nitrogen in the tires and you feel everything....to much for me but if you like the performance, agressive feel you will like them. I had Yokos YK420s all season, which in my terms were not so bumpy like the Avids. But keep in mine I only have 1,500 miles on the new ones. And the first month I could feel the difference day to day as the bounce wore off but i do not think they will get any better...nitrogen may be part of the culprit. From all the research I did stay away from Bridgestone Potenza and Turanzas. They hydroplane. Michelin Pilots, Primacys (backordered), Energies rated 9/10. Yokos were 7/8. They are great tires for the price...its not like our cars are brand new....but they run like they are

Not sure what a EGR is but im guessing it has to do with the fuel system. Try changing your fuel filter and cleaning your throttle body. ES are know for small oil passages that clog easy and decrease power and mileage. I had 70,000 on my ES300 when I did a Gum Out engine flush. This totally restored power I didnt know the car had! It was twice the HP after. Do do your home work on the company you choose to do the engine flush. I still need to clean the throttle body and change the fuel filter for the extra umph. At 90,000 you should have your fuel filter changed, timing belt, tune up done, and your throttle body and mass air flow sensor cleaned. I have about one oil change until 90,000 maintenence, my car will be new agian! If you do the engine flush too your car will run way better than you ever imagined assuming you find the problem. The tune up will change your plugs and wires which can cause the fuel iand power issues.

I ROCK, IF I DO SAY SO MYSELF! the pics are taken between 5-6pm sun shinning on the back of the car. and my camera sucks. useless fact # 222 use rain-x to prevent sand blasting and minor chips. and don't change your windshield unless absolutely necessary.

02-300 and i occasionally get the yucky smell. i changed the filters and it still happens only occasionally. what was the bill for lexus to clean the evaporator and vent cleaning? also im on a different platform so my filter was in the glove box....is the one behind the console in the pics the same or do i have another filter in the same spot that might need to be replaced?

i bought my 02-300 fully loaded minus the spoiler....navi, mark levenson sound, 16 chrome rims, heated seats, xenons with 70,000 mile on it for 14,000. the car is in great used condition. it does have a lot of chips from rocks since it was all highway miles and I did have the windshield replaced but i bought some touch up paint :) i love 240$ payments

I have 15% luminar all around...i had the windshiled tinted at 50% but cause it is aftermarket the distortion was too much so I had it removed. you could see into the car at close range and you could tell i am female when you drove by but you could not see my face. you need to take in fact that the interior of the car also effects what the end product looks like. i have tan interior which reflects light so even though i have pretty dark tint it is still pretty bright in the car esp since the windshield tint is gone. I wish the back window was 5% limo now that the Windshield is not tinted. I had a car w black interior tinted the same and it was not very visible inside the car.

im 27 w an 02-300. I was 26 when i got it. I had it shipped from CA to FL cause it was the exact car i would build in any make brand new. the problem is that kids that live on there OWN cant afford a new lexus so they buy older ones cause they have the toyota award winning reputation 250,000 and still ticking.....plus parts are more affordiable and available through aftermarket with higher age so they can mod them and have more choices The lady that had my car was 52. I love the luxury I'm a princess but, I do miss my turbo! But I would rather have this granny car no one else my age that lives alone has one...at least around me. no need to speed i just coast everywhere