PlatinumES00

Evaporator was cleaned/treated twice by the dealer - smell/mold did not transfer to the evaporator (it was the wipers the whole time...). 1 week with the new blades the smell is gone now - the mystery has been solved. Just for good measure I replaced the cabin filters again (found a set on eBay for $11.99 - OEM Toyota P/N 88880-33020 and for some reason they seem to fit much better than the ones the dealer had put in there...). thanks for all the suggestions.

The B pillar trim (between the front/back windows) on our '00 ES300 is supposed to be gloss black, but about 50% has peeled away. Anybody know how to remove this piece of trim for painting?

I would still recommend these: - PAC SNI-1 RCA Ground Loop Noise Isolator (x2) - these helped only a little - American International S15A 15-amp/250-watt Noise Filter - eliminated 90% of the audio buzz but skip this one: - American International AS100 Noise Filter for Motorola Antenna Hope your install goes well!

Thanks for the suggestions and an update - Removed the wiper arms and then the cover at the base of the windshield. No standing water or mold smell at the HVAC air intake. Checked all ducts that I could get to - removed glovebox/CD changer and checked the blower, no mold smell in the motor or the ducts. Removed the cabin filters, very faint smell. Put everything back together. Still a faint smell around the wedge shaped rubber drain guide at the base of the passenger side of the windshield. Sprayed it with hydrogen peroxide, then Lysol, then a 50/50 Clorox bleach solution and then dried out the area with a heat gun. Smell gone. Check inside by running the fan, smell is gone. But wait...I put the wiper arms and and the lower windshield cover back on. Check on the outside by the base of the passenger side windshield one last time, smell is back! I smell the wiper blades - ITS THE WIPER BLADE! The passenger side Anco blade somehow grew some very smelly mold, the blades look like these: and the little channels must have gone moldy at some point. So every time the blade got water on it (rain, snow, carwash) the smell became strong and as the blade rests right above the air intake, the smell went right inside the cabin. I am getting new blades today - neary 99.9% certain the problem is fixed.

No distortion problems, just electrical (whine) noise which the ground loop isolators took care of.

I'd leave the lexus alone, and not undermine the engineer's who try so hard at their persuit to perfection. I used the scosche double DIN install kit for our AVN, it is black. I also received an estimate >$200 for having it coated to match the woodgrain. We decided it looks OEM enough, and it actually blends pretty well with the black AC vents above it - so we left it black. Here are some pictures: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...&hl=eclipse

Still have the mold smell in our ES300. The dealer has replaced the cabin air filter and 'treated' the AC evaporator twice. They are quoting $110/hour to continue trying to figure out the smell - I really don't want go that route, could be very expensive. The smell is very strong by the intake at the base of the windshield on the passenger side. I was thinking of taking off the intake cover (base of of windshield, need to remove wiper arms) and trying to get some kind of brush or cleaner into the inlet duct on the passenger side. I think the problem is in the ducting on the passenger side, I may need to get at it from behind the glove box. I am wondering - when the dealer 'treated' the AC evaporator, would they also have cleaned the heater core (they are next to each other?) - where can I get instructions on taking apart the lower dash (techinfo.toyota)? thanks for any ideas - the smell is really bad after rain or a car wash.

I used this harness for our 2000 to use the factory amp: Metra 70-8113 (LEXUS ES300 1999-2001 AMP BY-PASS) Looks like you should be OK, I think the 70-8112 is for the 97-99 ES. some more information on my install here: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...&hl=eclipse

Saga continues - mold smell is returning. I checked on the outside of the car and it is very noticeable by the intake below the windshield on the passenger side. Dealer is going to retreat system at no charge - I asked that they clean and check the intake ducts as well, but service rep says they are 'very familiar' with the symptoms and will make it right. We shall see...

Well, I went to the Lexus dealer today for a new set of cabin filters and an AC evaporator and vent cleaning - problem 100% better and smell is gone. I wasn't able to find anyone locally who had any A/C evaporator cleaning foam products like BG Frigi-fresh, DWD2, etc - must be the wrong time of year because nobody had any in stock. Essentially, here's what needs to be done: First remove the old cabin air filters. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/es300-and-...ge-97-01-a.html Reclose the little cabin filter access door. Then you need to get some kind of AC evaporator foaming/cleaning product which is sprayed onto the evaporator - does it's cleaning/mold killing/bacteria killing and then drains out the AC drain tube. Let the evaporator dry out and install the new replacement cabin air filters. Again, I had no luck finding a cleaner - but this would be a good DIY if someone is able to do it and take some pictures. Oh, and from what I've read on other forums, the spraying Lysol method doesn't last - moldy smell returns and in the meantime your car stinks like Lysol. You need to clean the evaporator.

Lower price - just hoping somebody has a use for it... $5.00 + $2.25 USPS first class mail = $7.25. Payment via paypal - please PM me if interested. Thanks

Looking for more Ideas to combat a moldy smell coming from the heater (when the heat is on)...more info: Smell developed rather quickly - I have tried - running the heater on max to dry things out - floormats changed out and the carpet is dry Not sure how this smell could have developed as it is very cold here in MN and our garage does go below freezing. Other ideas: - I will check the cabin filters - could the AC drain line have frozen and plugged things up? Anybody have this issue? what other things does the dealer/indie shop do to fix the smell? thanks

Asking $10 + $3 shipping/handling via Paypal. Please PM me if interested. Item was used for a Garmin iQue and worked very well. Fits ES300 1997 - 2001. Thanks for looking. ======================================== Item No. 852385 - ProClip Center mount MakeModelYearLexusES 3001997-2001 <a name="50524"> Simply clip on in seconds Anyone can do it No special tools required No dashboard dismantling No interior damage Secure fit within easy reach Made of heat and cold resistant ABS plastic Pre-drilled holes for AMPS and ProClip hole patterns Onto the ProClip Mount you can attach any type of holder for your device e.g. a Mobile Phone, MP3, PDA, PND, GPS, UMPC, Satellite radio, Navigation Monitor, Multimedia Monitor, Hands-free car kit, Two-way radio etc.This easily self-install Dashboard Mount is custom made and clips into the seams between the panel sections of the dashboard, providing a very sturdy and tight fit. Average installation time is 30 sec. to 2 minutes. No dismantling of your dashboard is required and there is no damage to your vehicle's interior! The ProClip Mount is made of ABS plastic and is heat and cold resistant.

I have an Eclipse 5510 installed - full description here: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...mp;#entry340488 along with parts and part numbers. Hope this helps - works great!

and this thread too: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...mp;#entry286284 Yes, the green wire from the LCD clock will work for the ILL+ input for the Eclipse AVN 5510. The map color inverts (black background/white roads) and the display dims when the headlights are turned on. Now it looks and acts exactly like the OEM system I've used in the in-laws '04 ES330. And as suggested, if the parking brake wire is ran to GND, full iPod and navigation options are available while driving (haven't tried a DVD while driving yet). This comes in handy for the front seat passenger to help out with operating the 5510 while on long trips. I can post pictures if anyone is interested... Hey PlatinumES00, great installation and great pics! I too own a 2000 Platinum ES 300. Feel so encouraged to work it a bit more after reading all of your posts. I do have a lot of questions as a newbie, and wonder if you could answer for me: 1) What are the steps to remove the original audio center? what are the tools needed? 2) Did you bypass the amp in avn5510, and hookup front, read lineouts to the car amp with Metra 70-8113? Why 70-8113 has only 4 RAC plugs, what about center and subwoofer connection? 3) What happens to the 2 small speakers on the door, do they get any input? Should I just leave those wires that connect directly to speakers alone, not connecting to anything? 4) Could you please post some more pics on wiring, eg. the green wire from LCD hooking up the ILL+ input... Thanks a lot! I appreciate your sharing of a nice work on the ES. I'll try to remember as best I can 4 bolts hold in the radio you'll need a metric socket set and some good pry tools - I use a set from www.bojoinc.com 1)steps to remove stock radio: remove trim around shift lever, it prys up and out remove ashtray remove trim above ashtray you should see there are two bolts to remove next - pry out center upper vents with clock you should see the top two bolts unplug climate control plugs, clock etc. radio should just pull out at this point 2) yes, used line outs from adapter, I don't remember specifics about the adapter, but it works with the factory amp/sub 3) not sure, I didn't have to do any speaker wiring, I suspect some internal factory crossover takes care of them. 4) there is only one green wire connected to the LCD clock, I used the scotchlok wire taps included with the Eclipse. You'll see the clock wires when you pull the center vent. Hope this helps - it really wasn't that tough of an install. The VSS wire was the hardest part, and the initial electrical noise I had before adding the noise reduction items.