BALOO BELLE

Sometimes more head is better!! LMFAO I think we are to the end of my bumpy ride…man people are reading this whole thing? i feel like an !Removed!! So ride is much smoother 30. I don’t cringe and clench my teeth at hard bumps. Vibrations have dropped in proportion. The back and forth in the steering wheel is at 80mph n down to 1/16 and on wavy pavement. Like… uniform alternating (not symmetrical) dimples as far as you can see down both ruts...making waves? I have no idea how the roads wear in the north? It seems like its just the wheels catchin the dimples along the ruts moving the steering wheel as they catch? Vibrations in steering wheel are just vibes. Now that the steering wheel is not dominant there is a WHOLE lot of butt jiggling going on. I was amazed at how I could have missed that!?. my top was shaking more since i got more moves than a bowl of jello! I do not have tail end sway or steering issues as if I were missing a weight. I have directionals and 7.5lbs on the right side only. I cant guarantee that there were weights on the other side cause it looks like a combo of weight marks and finger prints on the inner rim. I could not make out a clean spot on the outer rim where the metal band wraps. if they were there they have been gone awhile. I guess I didn’t notice w the wrong pressure in the tires. It makes no sense that 2 of 4 tires would need weights and they just happened to be going the same direction to end up on the same side? im guessing the missing weights are the source of most vibrations since its the steering wheel and the seat. for the money the are prob ok tires minus the wear. im experiencing! Now, will missing two weights on the same side counter balance the swagger or pulling that you normally get, leaving just vibrations, or is it the matter of the amount weight it was off for the symptoms you get? or a fluke chance? also the tires are speed rated h not v like they should be. I was told after installation that it wont matter. I found a yoko (by chance) tire balance sheet but way to technical 8hrs work n managerial accounting my mind is mush http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=ca...jh5RE5P6Lj1dedw can someone wash my car so it feels pepe agian? ive done above the freaking maintenance and cant get a smooth break for like 2 years now. lmfao no one sold me nitro 40 vs 35 that was my wording for the placebo? i understand nitro adds no special powers to the tire. is there a size diff for the same psi? does 35 nitro use less molecules to meet the pressure in the same space? is that what im missing, makes more sense then!!! i havent taken chemistry yet...my brain hurts so are ultra high performance for sportier cars ( 6 speed TL type yeSSS!!! (i dont get tickets w an automatic))? is passenger code for economy boxes?

I actually lost my love when I got these tires cause im all about luxury why I got this car. at high speeds 65+: Flexible or lighter things I set on the seat and p. headrest have noticeable vibes increase w conditions. a low speed quiet vibe in the seat belt height adjuster and low audible vibe from p headrest in worst conditions. The vibes I feel are in the steering wheel and increase w tire noise and condition. I don’t vibrate w the ride. On older gentle worn roads vibes are more than I remember but not crazy. Major vibes are on from uneven pavement: waves, dimples, or cracks. my hands/arms only vibrate w worst roads at from the steering wheel movement 1/8in? Back and forth when worst I will double check the regular vibe direction. May be a much stronger vibration moving my hand vs movement? It does not affect the direction of the car in the worst situation, w no hands it holds steady though moving steering wheel. It is enough vibe difference between older and uneven pavement that I notice the diff in the symptoms. Its as smooth as a baby’s but on new pavement, I get good patches. My 40m commute ea way is mixed highway very bad road conditions. Car seems bouncier in city conditions, stiffer bumps may be better As the tires have broken and worn plus the pressure changes the symptoms have lessened. It was on a lift for the oil change, they made sure to check to find $$. They said all is good but my bushings are getting dry but not cracked. my mechanic he says to leave them be till they give symptoms. Would this be symptoms? I didn’t tell him anything but the tires sucked. my mechanic did 100k main and anything needed at 90k, 10k ago. He wouldn’t have taken it on the highway though. The few bad reviews that I found said stiff sidewalls rough ride, wear, noise.. Exactly what im getting! im very sensitive to change in my cars esp this smooth one :) I might not know what it is but I notice. :( ill double check in case I lost a 2.5lb weight not sure if size makes a diff in symptoms? I can tell when they are unbalance front vs back at 5lbs I though high perf was for sportier is or tl diff feel in the ride

that mom n pop tire shop are retards they put Avids H4s High performance all seasons w 40psi. I should have the passenger ones. no excuse for mileage though. I found it at 33psi last night and at at 30psi you can tell the diff in the ride. Its always been smooth but humpity bumpities are still a problem. at 70mph on smooth pavement its a dream but older pavement it vibrates. when its really bad the steering wheel moves back and forth. my daily reminder is seeing the passenger head rest vibrate while the metal on my purse is jingling. i cant wait for new tires so i can fall back in love its been a rough 16k i checked the door sticker since I was hanging out the door at a stop light... it was still foreign, literally! 200 is eurpoean then ours. how would a girl know that?? dont americans come first? lol thanks dudes that shop also quoted the mich pilots at $900 which is absurd when i find them a year later for 125.

I did have one question towards alignment. When I did the aliginment they explained that the camber on one of the back wheels was off due to a normal defect w this car. That the is no fix kit made yet and it will not effect anything. has anybody heard this yet? should i be worried about this? before i had the alinment done it was way off on the charts but i could still take my hand off the wheel and still go straight like nothing was wrong. i was told that was due to the great suspension. the lady that had the car didnt do the aligment when she got the tires and didnt rotate them so you could tell in the wear on the out side of the front tires.

didnt make it far enough to even start looking to figure out to raise the seat. lol i know what im messin w this weekend. my mechanic looked and said he will do it for me w out taking it out. i dont think im strong enough to safely remove the seat by myself w no damage. do I need to remove the cover to spray the connectors behind the button? is it safe for me to spraying through the cracks to the connectors behind the button to try to skip disassembly if its not needed. it seems to be the actual button trigger. you have always had to hit it in the right spot. i struggled w it when it went out the first time. or could it possibly be a connection to the switch?

i read the manuel front to back when i got it, ima geek! door tag gives letters for pressure so ill go w the 33. my x left 3 months before i had to learn the tire stuff. i do have a cigarette air pump in my trunk but its not strong enough to keep them high enough just enough to drive on a flat. Im going w the primacy found em for 153$ at tirekingdom w a 40$ coupon and a 20$ off synthetic oil change. cant use em together :( ill get an oil change, order em, and make an appt for the next weekend... i even found a coupon for 16$ off nitro lol jk. well im off for another 5k til then

does the electrical cleaner come w a tiny spray straw like wd40. can i spray into the cracks around the button or will this not be good for the other components? they are all electrical and it will dry. i can manage taking the chair out my self if i have the tool and strength to unbolt it. but with the air bag being in there im a little scared. if i am going to take the chair out should i just replace the switch w a new one?

***Your tires will wear slower at a higher PSI, but 40PSI is probably so high that you're getting uneven wear in the center of the tread.*** ill change my vocab since its not reading right $40 = the steering/control/grip? (whatever you call it) of a fuller tire (40psi) but the less bumpy ride of 35psi. w no benefit in wear. the only thing nitro does is make the tire larger at a lower psi giving it a diff feel. Thats what i needed... higher psi wears slower. simpler is better ive always been told to run based on tire max, 5lbs less for better wear. that compairson is for better wear over the car manufacturer reccomendation for comfort. gotcha, thats why you never get the warranty mileage outta a tire. i should believe i will get half the miles. tires are wearing even at 35, i might drop em case its still rough to me. is max psi for heavier vehicles or a scam so they can put higher unattainable mileage for dummies like me?

i can only tell you how horrible these tires were at optimal 40psi nitro!!! it was like being on eggshells or hourseback. i called to return them on the 30day garantee and had the pilots priced and they were 400$ more so i didnt bother having the energies or primacys priced. I dropped psi to 35 after that i could handle the ride for the $ diff if they went 50K . trust your gut. tax return agian! my last tires were dry rotting w some use left and by replacement tirme were fisured between the treads... at least those went the mileage. yoke-ur-mama! if wear is based on pressure the only thing you are paying for w nitro is a more "responsive feel of larger tire" at a lower psi wear.... your not saving anything (normal wear) just getting 40$ "better feel" and not having to add air. is there significant wear difference if you run air 33 vs 40? are we talking 2 months vs 10 m? they cant even tell me a pro-rate for mileage! i have to wait til the next oil change and have them measured so they can send the info to their rep to find out if they will prorate and if i have to get another pair of yokos to get it. im thinking costco (wholesale warehouse) any other good spots? tire kingdom does buy 3 get 1 free, not michelins. i guess its time to turn the traction of and start peeling out... lol but then i guess im !Removed! myself since i dont want yokos

You do in theory have less air loss issues, but thats where any difference on nitrogen ends. I too have had tires with nitrogen...and there is no difference in how the vehicle rides or fuel economy. i updated not arguing just want your opinion on safety. if it is safer then its worth it to me. i put the paragraph together better after... longer tire life refers to internal moisture damage from air to metals w in tire not mileage wear. My question is if every thing compounded make it safer every day + less damage to the car if you were to get a blowout: 5lbs less stress on the sidewalls, less corrosion on metals, better response of higher psi? Lots of nails, dry rott, and rain in FL, I dont want to reck her and never had to change a tire! or is the moisture content bogus too basically if the inside metal ribbions? are in better condition does it reduce chances of blow out or how much the tire shreds if you do? and if lower pressure of 35 but larger like they would be w 40psi air do they wear at the size of 40psi or the rate of 35psi? or is tire wear by pressure not size? i know the avids are just crappy!

try this i havent tried it yet dont use mine much... or at least its by myself and ive never had the option so i just do it at stop lights it work at speeds under 35mph http://www.wikihow.com/Override-Lexus-Navigation-Motion-Lock

i dont know enough to argue that. if it wasnt your car you wouldnt notice the symptoms esp on a test drive. being familiar w the car you notice it alot cause it just wasnt the same. i knew by compairison not the presence of symptoms. the symptoms grew by addition so in the beginng it just was the pedal diff which is normal position and pressure on other cars. if i let someone borrow my car for a week or sold it before i took it to the mechanic they would never know or notice it cause it drives like other cars.

yeah its magic the switch is working agian and i didnt do anything. im not sur ei want to mess w this if it is so involved. im not trying to take the seat out or mess around w the air bag. lame

i had a diff type of yokos yk20? but had no issues w those. Oh crap they were all seasons, dah! my warranty is 60k and i got 1/3 of the wear! im probably going to have to get yokos to get the prorate but if so i can shop around cause im not getting scamed into another warranty unless it was simply the type not the brand. I do have a question is the issue im having not w the brand but the type i got. sport hybrid which is softer rubber wears faster, firmer w nitrogen, and directionals. i was told that yokos are a quality brand so im thinking it might just be my dumb decision for the type i got and firmer w nitro for additional wear. i agree to disagree on the nitrogen, you can tell he diff at the same 35psi. is it worth the $40 thats the question and depends on your expectaions and priorities? pamplets push wrong reasons to sell not science. its the same drive (firmer more responsive) as running your tires at max pressure only w less stress on sidewalls at 5psi lower. nitro takes up more room than air so the tire is fuller at less pressure. nitro molecule is larger and doesnt excape through the tire as easy maintaining pressure longer. longer tire life refers to internal moisture damage from air to metals w in tire not mileage wear. they should wear the same as 40psi air i havent been through a full set. it helps w gas mileage and wear if you dont pay attention to pressure. My question is if every thing compounded make it safer every day + less damage to the car if you were to get a blowout: 5lbs less stress on the sidewalls, less corrosion on metals, better response of higher psi? Lots of nails, dry rott, and rain in FL, I dont want to reck her and never had to change a tire!

i have yoko avids and by my next oil change, 20k miles i have to have all four replaced agian! i paid like 450 for the tires alone. plus 100 for another the alignment. i have them filled w nitrogen which i do not reccommend on the luxury suspension. you feel too much for my old lemoned 07 passat w a turbo it was great! nitrogen does give you a better grip i can say that. Im *BLEEP*ed they should prorate my alignment too since i have to pay for an extra one. any who my new purchase not even a year and a half later will be prorated by the warranty on the mileage on the tire. they were 45k i think, would be sweet if they were 60k! im thinking kumo but i do not know the specifics of the manufacturers and brands. i know i would rather have a touring tire than a sport hybrid like the avids or the estacy? by kumo. i really want michelins but they are soo expensive im really leaning to cheaper "jap" brands i have read really bad water reviews about bridgestone/firestone turanza and potenza for this car. i really didnt have a problem w the handling just the wear. im in fl so any good rain tires would be great 215/60/16

i know the ebrake doesnt function w regular brakes but i tried it to see if it changed the pressure or or move the bubble in the air line for different effects. it was air in the brakes system by the valves but not bubbles. took it to my mechanic after i called him and explained. His first guess was the master cylindar. the cylindar had no leak or seeping fluid. he found when he uncapped the line on two of the wheels that air came out before liquid so there was air in the system but not the same effects as bubbles in the line which made it seem like the cylindar. my pedal is higher and softer it is the normal differences for new brakes now. yippee! thanks dudes. it should be solved now tossed him a $20 and was on my way. if you are having to replace a cylindar the toyota brand is around $500 for the part but I was told you can get quality aftermarket for a couple hundred and not to use a re--??? pair remodeled.. damn it reconditioned? one.

i think ceramic cause when they went bad the first time there were no squealing or symptoms at all. i had no idea they were almost shot. he would have only replace w the same or better. he use to ask what i wanted when i was younger and broke. i put the car in reverse w the emergency brake on and no brake pedal and gased it you could feel it hunker down and enguage. lol i did this twice and so far i havent noticed the rolling and seems to almost be stoping smoother. not sure if if just been over compensating to correct the problem but we will see how it goes. pedal is still in the middle and firmer like when i got it back w the new brakes. i go for oil change tomorrow and will ask bout the bubble. are metallic the kind that will "slip" when cold. cause im not sure i can pin it to being cold. i havent noticed that yet. will ceramics slip?

its in your owners manual. you can change it to lock at 30mph or when you shift out of park. and unlock when you put it in park or when you open your door. i can look it up if you dont have a manual just tell me what lock and unlock options. i forgot how to do it been two years

I have a 02 300 and the back contor control button has shorted out. when i got the car you had to push it in the right spot to get it to work. :( that and the butt warmer help my back soo much. anyone taken the side panel off yet or know if you can get to the wire harness from underneat in the back seat? i actually need to get to the connection under the button? has anyone see a DYI for this?

respect my authorit-iiiii! my mechanic has skillz. he has 30y+ experience working for the county on all vehicles including volvo work trucks with air brakes. he owns a toyota and a honda. im only questioning so i know what to ask him and tell him when i call. not that i doubt him im just efficient! brake pedal got harder and higher with each pump. more of a distance from 1st to 2nd pump. shorter distance and much harder on 3rd. it got brick hard when i pushed it the 4 time to start it. brake pedal dropped alot when i started the car.. so now what? another thing i noticed since the new brakes.. when im stopped at lights i loosen up on the pedal as normal and if i dont keep firm pressure i start rolling. the old breaks were more lax. it happens more frequent than me just not paying attention. or at least i dont think i should be moving which is why i always thought it was a "enguage" point for the new brakes. he used all toyota parts too. so i didnt know if maybe it was a diff grade that might causing issues. same manufacturer same part im super sensative to my car. I can tell the slight difference in idle from premium gas from mobil vs sonoco, shell, chevron, etc. and from an oil change using synthetic mobil one w lucas stabilizer vs no stabilizer. so im not sure if im over reacting on what is normal? the pedals not horrible squishy im just noticing a change that has caught my attention... im what you might say an*l

i have 15k miles on my brakes, drums, and resurfaced rotars front and back. I noticed they were working different but thought it was just the change of everything being new. Before they were changed the car stopped on a dime, i barely had to touch the petal and it was high. My home mechanic who i trust said they were all but shot and that i should have been hearing squealing and that someone put the wrong pads on it causing sand to get in the drums. When i got it back i had to re-learn the breaks. The pedal was midway and much harder but i also noticed when rolling to a stop that at the distance at which the car should have stopped it felt like it would slip roll couple more feet and come an almost abrupt stop. a very slight lunge maybe the word. it is still doing the same thing only the pedal is lower and getting squishy... is this just normal wear for the breaks? It has become more noticable the last two weeks. im jerking myself around cause i cant ever judge the breaks right now that it has changed agian. i hate that I havent been able to stop smooth like i use to before. they stop great at high speeds and quick and are functioning right otherwise, its just rolling then stopping. the fluid is just under max. i have tried to adjust the brakes by putting it in reverse and hitting the brakes and gas at the same time. and it does nothing. i could always tell the difference in my crappy grand prix. if i repeatedly bottom the brake pedal it gets harder and higher but goes back as soon as you take your foot off the brake. oh crap i hope its not the master cyclindar... could the moron doing the brakes wrong origianlly have screwed up the master cylinder? if ti is the cylinder i may have an upcoming out of state trip FL to AL or GA can I wait til I come back? if its the cylinder or something other than a bubble it going to my mechanic i never trust shops i do not know anything about breaks so is there an easy way to bleed the bubble with out digging under the car. I need to have my oil change and would like to know what symptoms could be cause i know when i take my car to a shop they will try to rip me off as normal. they should just bleed the breaks and refil. how much should this run if that is what it is?

before you dig you sensor out there are invest in very small or glasses screwdrivers. there are two clips at the top and a clip and an arm bar at the bottom you have to apply pressure on all for it to release. if you scratch or chip the sensor your SOL and auto will run non stop. my sensor was chipped by the morons doing the replacement..... windhsheild replaced - i didnt have problems until i replaced mine...twice cause they did it wrong. if functioned differetly each time. you can try replacing the gel pad with an $20 oem lexus one. im not sure if this will work but was recommended to me as aftermarket make it slower to function..which is kinda good cause they are soo sensative. also clean the unplugged sensor and gel pad w alcohol and a lint free cloth. if they didn clean or keep the original gel pad it will function differently.

w out the sensor it runs intermittant on auto setting?

THe sensor needs to be pushed up toward the roof. the metal hooks attached to the winsheild point up and the pin holds the bottom secure. I would take a pic for you buy both of my clips are broken but placement was the top so it has to incert downward when i say connection issue its not the harness but internal on the sensor or the sensor to the pad. My sensor was recked along w the casing. It wouldnt work cause it was not flush with the gel pad. but when i pushed on it and it completed the circuit it ran nonstop cause the sensor was wacked. I can actually hear something rattling in the bad sensor :(

There is a link somewhere on here to a short cut to manually override for one sesion. I have the printout in my car still I think... I hope... I havent tried it out either not sure if it is specific to a version or not. :( any who does anyone have the link to the topic that has a website for a dealer that sells the upgrades and has all the diff versions and upgrades available. I saved few topics but everything is gone!! I searched forever for it. I am also looking to add an ipod plug... are the menus compatible in the upgraded software... im lost when it comes to radio stuff so i am going to pay someone... Also does anyone have satelite radio from an upgrade... that would be awsome if that came with the upgrade or at least the menu part :)