eugene.s

Hi, describe in detail the starting issues if you really expect help!

JSchnoor, I wouldn't expect anything under the hood but would check two things: 1) that the car has not been drown (e.g. via Carfax, Carcheck, etc.) 2) that the driver door assembly is OK. The easiest would be to check that everything which is there between the front passenger door and the trim is in place between the driver door and the trim. In particular, there's some plastic part between a door and trim -- if the door was repaired but the part was not installed, you will exactly get the floor wet and it would not be unusual to see a lot of ice/snow in the door clearance.

Hi, I would check the fuses first (ref you car's manual). Relays and diagrams are available from the Repair Manual (RM) for your car (model/year). RM costs a fortune but in rare cases some people told me they were able to find publicly available RMs for their cars in the internet.

Hi, firstly, are you not confusing ignition coils with spark plugs? If the former, why do you think you need to replace them? Please confirm before we spend our time looking at the issue.

Nskipper001, so sorry that you are still having this trouble on the NY day. Re your queries: (A) I am surprised that your technicians have "no error codes". I would expect some. Ask them to specifically confirm outcome of the "health check" procedure. I would assume that your situation should at least translate to some error codes. They may misinterpret the codes' meaning. (B)The key is to follow the Lexus procedures for isolating and fixing the problem. You say that your current technicians have been trained as Lexus technicians. If so, they must have access to the comprehensive Lexus' repair manuals for your car and perform all the procedures as prescribed by Lexus. I would expect a discount from them (comparing to the Lexus dealers' prices). (C ) Techstream is the right thing. I'd be almost positive that they use the original OBD cable. Though, if they are not "official Lexus", any extra cost-optimisation remains probable. No point asking them to use the original cable - if they ever bought it, they must have tried it already. If they don't have it, you can only delicately verify this as a fact (if so, go to a Lexus dealer immediately). The original cable is called Mongoose MFC (sample pictures here: old model & 2012+ model). Aftermarket cables often look exactly the same, but in most cases the brand name as shown on a device is misspelled (e.g. Mangoose instead of Mongoose etc.). Another test for counterfeit (though, a bit controversial one) is if the chip inside is not of the red colour (often, it's green on counterfeit). (D) As to selecting a trusted electrician/technician, I am not in the US and will have to leave you here for someone's domestic advice (e.g. Paul's one above). *** Re-read your original post -- a month and 3 weeks passed since the flooding (correct?), so probably no casual connection with your issue. It must be something else. (1) If the car won't crank, just out of the blue, but the "ignition on" illumination is as usual, the most frequent cause is the dying battery. From your original post, you may have been having all the symptoms of a dying battery over the last 2 months . E.g. if the car doesn't start immediately but would start after turning the "ignition on" for a while (i.e. giving a load on the battery to warm it up while it still has some reasonable juice), then the battery would re-charge from the alternator while you drive -- sufficiently enough to start the car next time, again and again, for as long as you use the car frequently. But if you leave the car parked for a week or more, all the juice from a dying battery may go away and it may no longer start the car. If the battery is not yet completely dead, you may be able to get the usual "illumination" with the "ignition on", maybe even put your headlights on, but the starter won't crank. Drained batteries is the most frequent cause of no cranking. Once the battery is recharged, all should return to normal. Confirm that your mechanics positively confirmed the battery is OK with voltmeter (and confirmed that its physical terminals are OK). Asking them to in any event try re-scan the car with another (knowingly good) battery (lent from their stock) may be a good option. (2) The second most frequent cause to no cranking is the burnt out fuses. You or your mechanics would need to isolate the fuses which might be responsible for the symptom. This is not a straight-forward exercise (though, my first guess would be to check IGN fuses). Testing the fuses may not be straight-forward, again (e.g. the fuses responsible for headlights appear dead unless you physically turn on the headlights). I've never had to check the IGN fuses but would assume you may need to similarly try to start the engine to properly check these fuses. Again, asking the technicians to just in case replace the fuses which may be suspected to be responsible for your issue with knowingly good ones, and re-scan the vehicle, may be a good opportunity. For this, they will likely charge you, but fuses are very cheap. (3) Reflecting on my previous advice, if the key's transponder battery is dead, the starter should crank but the car won't start. On contrast, if you have a non-OEM alarm system/immobilizer and there's an issue with it, the car often will not crank. (4) On another reflection, I don't know how the starter would behave if there's not enough fuel - check that you have fuel in the tank. All in all, follow all the procedures that I prescribed. I hope it would resolve the issue. If not, please write back and we will try to help.

Nskipper001, the simplest solution would be to follow Paul's advice and go to an experienced car electrician if not to a dealer. Otherwise, some thoughts for DIY: - which error codes does the scanner report? - check that the car's battery is OK - check that the relevant fuses are not burnt out (consult your car's manual) - check that the battery in the chip in your key is OK (consult your car's manual) - if you installed non-OEM car alarm system/immobilizer, consult their manual/manufacturer - disconnect the car's battery for 5 mins, reconnect it and repeat the scanning using the original OBD cable (it costs $400+ and many people prefer to use aftermarket cables, which often cannot connect to all systems) If all this does not help, probably this is a hardware issue (presumably caused by a short-circuit) - something for a car electrician to diagnose further.

CESummers, you should not ignore it - e.g. read here (link). If you google for "RX300 P0330", you should be able to find the diagnostics procedure

GXCajun, I previously could find very decent diagrams + average non-dealer prices for items here. Also, Sewell have diagrams + discounts for this forum's members.

GXCajun, your car's warranty (3 years or 100,000 mileage, whatever comes first) must have expired in 2012 but if the truck continued to be serviced by a Lexus dealer (the service is due every 5k miles), you may be reasonably confident that all is fine. You may still face some isolated issues (like you described in a separate post), but you truck overall should be fine. So, check the dealer's maintenance records first. Note that the prescribed 60k miles service is one of the most comprehensive in the truck’s history. If the truck has not been recently serviced by a dealer, you may still opt for a check by some trusted mechanic, as many people seem to prefer to do. I am sure if you ask friends/neighbors, they'd say that a garage service was just enough and they had no issues thereafter. Well, I can only offer you my own opinion on this. Lexus cars are very reliable and proved to me and my friends to be able to withstand even the poorest maintenance I could ever think of. But their prescribed regular maintenance procedures are for a reason. That reason, in layman terms, is the peace of mind. I live in a remote place in Russia and I don't have any official Toyota/Lexus dealers here. But I cannot afford any accident involving my family simply because I was not careful enough to make sure my car was in a good shape. So, I always try to comply with Lexus requirements as much as possible – and I encourage all to do the same (yes, I have to pay a fortune for this in my place though I am not a luxury-type of person at all - but you guys in the US have much better and cheaper opportunities to do that). As said, the 60k service is one of the most comprehensive by Lexus requirements, so don't ignore it. Unless you have positively performed the 60k checklist (e.g. having a Lexus dealer's record on this), you cannot be sure that this has been done, and done properly. To illustrate: by a visual check, no one can confirm the real condition of the mechanical liquids (from memory, there are at least 5 critical liquids to be replaced at around 50-60k); if the proper parts have been properly lubricated; if the appropriate nuts have been re-tightened, etc. Apparently, it’s the Lexus dealers who have the best knowledge on “how to” properly do the maintenance on Lexus cars. So, if you are not positive that the 60k service has been performed, I would encourage you to go to a Lexus dealer and ask to do it (and put this on a record). Yes, this may cost you some extra money (comparing to the garage mechanic option) but consider it's worth the peace of mind as I explained above. Enough of lyrics. To check the Lexus dealership maintenance performed on your particular car (and get a more knowledge): Register here and input your truck's VIN into the system (VIN is the unique identifier of your truck, you can find it on the plate in the arch of the driver's door = embedded on your windshield). Then go to My Lexus > Service History and see if there is a service record there for the 60k miles maintenance for your truck. If there's none, I explained my opinion on what to do above. To see the Lexus-recommended maintenance schedule and requirements, go on that site to My Lexus > Manuals & Resources > select to show "All" and browse for "maintenance (pdf)" or alike.

GXCajun, the first thing to check is the fuses. There are two sets of fuses in your truck, one behind the steering wheel and the other under the hood. Check you truck's manual for the location/diagram of the fuses which may be responsible for the issue. If you do try your best but cannot resolve the issue - post back here and we'll try to put you in the right direction.

Many thanks, cc1999, I now got the point about the spacers (your post also explains the angles at which you took some of the LX pictures). I indeed originally sought this has something to do with the truck's height (re-read my message, to avoid any confusion - no irony was involved). Though I cannot distinguish it on the pictures, extra 1.25" on each side makes sense to me. In theory, this should indeed improve the look of the car and its stability on the road. I am not sure, though, if the non-spec extra width can affect the operation of the vehicle stability system somehow... Probably it should not, but I am no expert in how the electronic systems are designed... If you have any extra knowledge, please share. And on a minor issue - does the increased width result in more mud spread to the body of the truck (I would assume the fenders are only designed for the spec width)? In my remote place, I don't know anyone who went for spacers. But I saw some guys on the road who put extra-wide tires and rims on their trucks - they usually get full of dirt right out of parking...

Year, I'm with VBdenny - I should have mentioned that I never saw any great help of the outer mirror's heater/dimmer function. The dimmer only works great to me on the inside (center) mirror. The heater is really called "defogger" - which explains what it can do. It can help you get rid of some fog on the mirror, but if you hope it to melt the snow/ice on it - it cannot do that. Go for the simple mirror, the $20 quote is amazing and I would go for it myself.

cc1999, thank you for the posts, the pictures - and for the quick response! I am afraid I cannot judge any material difference between the pictures of "before" and "with the spacer". Comparing your first three LX pictures to my LX (from comparable distance), I would say no material difference? (or maybe a difference within 1' or so?). Would than be a right perception? As to the the last (fourth) LX picture (the "before"), this looks like showing the LX the H mode? (I cannot guess for the LC pics, as I had no experience with LC). I am still continuing to wonder what extra height the spacers can bring, and how useful these can be. Do you do much of rock climbing? In my place, the largest challenge with GX/LX was in putting it on shafts in the snow. But heightening the truck almost always helped... Maybe I should ask why do you need the spacers (e.g. you may be in the desert or something)?

Ann, Re the $20 mirror glass - you'll definitely lose the heater/dimmer, but you should still rely on the power mirror functionality. If you buy just the mirror glass (as you said, for just $20) - this seems to me an incredibly good option. Just make sure that it fits your car first (I guess you have this confirmed already with someone who suggested it) -- this will give you the power-mirrors functionality. The exercise is about connecting the mirror glass to its physical connection base inside the mirror's housing - no wires involved, just claws and some sticky tape. To obtain the heater/dimmer functionality, you'd have to buy the mirror glass that is physically build to support this (having quickly googled, the cheapest replacement glass I found was $300+). It you opt for the cheapest glass (as you suggested) - make sure that your mechanic properly isolates (with the insulation tape) the wires within the mirror housing, which wires would otherwise connect to a "heating/dimming-compatible" mirror glass (as you don't have compatible mirror glass, you need to isolate the wires). Otherwise you may get a short circuit (especially in a rainy weather) which could bring your car to a stop.

Hi, cc1999, good to see that you are still up to it - don't you mind to post picture before and after? Also, does the Trail Sport set in any event affect the LX's functionality of adjusting the height of the vehicle (via the switch by the gear lever)? Just wondering...so, if/when you have time, please

jeannebeeny Apologies for the delay (I've been travelling), which I'm trying to compensate for by a comprehensive post. I am not an electrician but I had GX before, am just trying to help. If I were you, I would go as follows: (1) Which CDs did your try to load? Try "original" CDs from the shop (e.g. not mp3; not hand-burnt). I had GX470 2005, it only recognised the original CD format (i.e. the disks with the label reading like "Compact Disk Digital Audio"). Your truck's manual (likely, its navigation manual - yes, I know it's counter-intuitive) should say which CDs it accepts. (2) Having checked the above, we need to isolate if this is a hardware problem linked to your CD changer or if this anything else. I am not an electrician, but I had GX for over 5 years, having followed a few forums for the time and i never heard of an issue like yours. So, I would go to duly check the following first: (a) Are your sure your've inserted the CDs the right side up? The 6-disk changer unit in the glove box has marks showing in which direction to insert the disks. Even if I were confident that I had been inserting the disks in the right direction, I would have tried to turn them over (e.g. the "label" side up/down). ( B) If this doesn't help: my strongest suspect is the fuses. You are saying you've changed them. How did you replace the fuses and which of them did you replace? Normally one checks as follows: (i) identity the fuses responsible for the problem (in your case, AUDIO/CD/maybe also NAV). Note: AUX has nothing to do with your in-built CD changer; AUX means transmitting signals via a cord device (which can be, e.g. your iPhone, if you decide to plug in in via the cord to the AUX module). There are two fuses sets in your truck - under the hood and behind the steering wheel -- the map as to which fuse is responsible for what is somewhere on the back of the truck's manual (I admit the manual may be confusing to identify which of the fuses may be affecting AUDIO/CD/NAV/etc.) (ii) once the responsible fuses are identified, you check if these particular fuses are alive, e.g. with an electrician's screwdriver. Such screwdriver is cheap and you can find it in any car/electric shop. It has just one connector (which you need to apply to the fuse being checked) and a light indicator to show if any electric waves are travelling between the fuse's and the screwdriver's connectors. If the light is on, then it's OK. If not - the fuse is burnt out and needs to be replaced. If in step (i) you cannot identify which fuses are responsible for your problem, you just check them with the e-screwdriver one by one. Though, this process may be by itself confusing, e.g. you cannot check HEADLIGHTS fuse unless you turn on the headlights, etc. (iii) if any fuse which should be alive is dead, only then you need to replace it. How did you replace the fuses and which ones did you replace? Different fuses in your truck are of different resistance, are you sure you've replaced all the fuses apple-for-apple? I hope the replacement fuses were not "no-name" and that you bought them from a relalible source? (3) For the computer diagnostics, I'd suggest you contact any service shop (unless you are prepared to go to a dealer - which doesn't seem to be your preference, right?). I am not in the US, so I hope other forumers can help you with the choice of brand names to which you can safely go in the US. If you want to run error codes by yourself, this takes quite an effort and is a bit complicated. But if you wish to follow the DIY route, let me know (either in this thread or via PM), I am sure I could guide you there as well.

Hi, victorjohn, any update, if you please?

Post more pictures (and more explanations how you are doing that) - interesting!

Hi, ref. your first question, this is probably your A/C pulley assembly. From other forums, quite a common issue and not something which you can easily replace at home. So, best to consult a car mechanic. Ref. your second question, the answer must be in your car's manual (from memory, it has maintenance tables for each 15,000 of mileage). Again from memory, on Lexus you have to replace the timing belt every 100,000 miles.

I've never heard of the "spinning around" issue. Theoretically: cars use the civil GPS system which allows for, from memory, like 300ft (if not 3,000ft) tolerance. So, the system is not precise and errors are frequent. However, for your issue to be a GPS system error, it must be a frequent problem for other cars at least in your location. Given no one confirmed having the same problem, this probably belongs to your car. Try checking the fuses (ref. your owner's manual). If the fuses are OK, check if any error codes (via computer diagnostics) and report back.

Hi, very strange. You don't press on AUX to operate your CD changer, this is different. When you press the AUDIO button, which tabs do you see on your screen? (e.g. CD/DVD/FM/AM/AUX...). Do you see the "CD" (arguably, depending on options, also the "DVD") tab (or alike) there? 1) Try checking the fuses -- I had GX470 2005 before, from memory, the fuses chart (which fuse is responsible for what) is somewhere at the ending part of the car manual. 2) Do you get any error codes during computer diagnostics?

Once you've successfully loaded the CD's and then pressed on the "AUDIO" (or a similar icon) button, what does it give you?

OK, how did you resolve it? I guess the F to C / MPG to LKM problem is in how you connect the wires (well, from the start, it's with the ECU - but in your case it's probably about connectors). Anything for you to look up there? Did you try "setup" > "vehicle", and then change temperature/units settings on the "nav" menu? (I had GX470 and LX570, so I guess similar settings on your NAV screen)? Going to bed now, see you tomorrow

strong1993, are you getting 300 miles for a tank? You are extremely lucky - I only get 350-400 km with a full tank! Never heard before of anyone making 300 miles! Be sure, you are the luckiest one on the planet!

Hi Galtom, You seem to be advanced in electronics, but still - did you check all the fuses? Re buttons on the replacement radio (audio, air con, etc.) which are not illuminated -- when you press on these buttons on the radio, do they actually perform the functions (audio, air con, etc.)? Or are these functions performed via your original buttons (audio, air con, etc.) located elsewhere and not on the radio? Did you buy the radio unit "new" and from an official dealer or any chance that the unit might have been defective when you bought it? Do you get any codes from computer diagnostics?