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RetiredDoc, I personally had no issues with the amplifier so far, but thank you for posting such a detailed review. Agreeing with Paul A., I am sure that this will be helpful to others; and that's what this forum is designed for -- sharing experience and helping each other! Further, I think the large advantage of your post is that it has has your soul attached to your advice (as district from rather technical Lexus Repair Manual procedures I've seen). Good job and please keep on! --E

Vlad353, for the other forumers', what was the issue, if you please?

OK, but which particular problems with your car were you able to resolve by isolating it's location? If you want to be helpful to others (which this forum is designed for), let me encourage you to share your experience as much as you can. IMHO, most of people won't understand (as I dont') why they need to locate the item; rather, they'd want to understand how they can fix this or that issue (you haven't described which issue you've managed by isolating the particular port).

Just returned from leave. You probably need to try professional scanners ($200+).The cheap ones (~$20) really often lose communication. Go to a dealer or AutoParts etc. The alternative is to pre-set whatever software coming with a cheap adapter to your particular market (US, Japan or Europe).

Hi there, I have good news to you. If the window operates as it should (i.e. "normally") after re-connecting the battery, this is not a mechanical issue. I have three suggestions: (1) Try to recalibrate the window in issue. The exact calibration procedure must be in the car manual. From memory, you'd need to (operating the passenger's door switch, rather than the driver's "master" switch) put the window up, hold a few seconds while depressing the "up" button; put the window down and hold the button to "down" a few seconds again; and the same procedure for "up" again. (2) If this doesn't work, check fuses (the fuses map is in the car manual). (3) If neither of the above works, try checking your car for any error codes. Again, you problem doesn't seem to be of a mechanical nature (e.g. when there's a wiring problem); I guess you have good chances to resolve it.

Hi Dr. Gee, Your advice must be helpful to other FIY forumers, but trying to expand your advice to my car (and other car) models, why did you have to get hold of the low pressure port? I guess if you could describe some problems which could be fixed by the operation, THAT would be most helpful to others...

Have you guys found anything specific by now?

Hi, it doesn't seem that standard Lexus procedures (or alike or Toyota) allow replacing the touch screen only, rather they focus on replacing the whole unit. I guess you can only find something on YouTube or in the internet -- and only if someone did it before off-spec...

JSchnoor, have you isolated your problem?

Thanks, Steve, I've just returned from leave and read your post with interest. From my experience, 6000K for low beams are great -- they don't seem to blind others and provide me with great vision at night -- unless it's raining. If it's raining, I cannot see any light from them on the road (as all the others with 6000K report to me). I wish I went for 4000K or so. Stock high-beams (halogen) still seem good to me, if you don't focus that they produce a much more yellow light than the HID low-beams. Am not a perfectionist, will probably leave it as is...

I don't owe your car but the answer should be in the car manual

you better replace both bank sensors until it deteriorates more -- unless you want to fool the car by putting some lambda cheaters (this i dont' recommend and dont think anyone at this forum can guide you in that direction; in any event, if you select the latter way, i cannot guarantee you'll pass the next emissions inspection or that you'll not have to drive in 4th or below all the time)

Which code reader model it cannot communicate with?

If there are no error codes, this might be a wire problem (I had the latter one on one of my previous Toyota's)

I would have sought that a dealer may not be required to put for free something extra in a vehicle which complied with the standards as of *each* of the date when it was manufactured and when it was sold to the first owner. Try register here (link) and input your car's VIN number and browse through the menu. You'll be able to see both of the aforementioned dates, as well as the owner's manual for your particular model/year car. The manual should will tell you which seat child anchors to expect, as well as the timing belt change intervals. Edit: BTW, at the same site you could see if there is any Lexus TBS (technical bulletin) requiring any additional safety work (e.g. child seal restrains) on your car.

If this happens after starting a cold car (e.g. after an overnight parking) and the needle starts @ approx. 1,500-1750 RPM and then, while the car warms up, it jerks here and there but in 5-10 mins overall goes down to approx 1,000-1,250 RPM, this is normal. Sputtering from the exhaust (if it's really minor) during this process should be rather normal, too. Otherwise, after you drive for e.g. 30 mins, the needle in idle should be somewhere below 1,000 RPM and stable (save for the time when A/C goes on, in which case RPMs will jump up). Is this your case?

Hmm..... I heard of something which sounds like a similar issue only twice. In one case a friend had a sun roof deflector on 2008 LX570 and in the winter/spring time the snow melted and the water dropped along the arch of the driver's door and got on wires inside which apparently had not been properly insulated (presumably, by the manufacturer). This caused issues like no reaction to door/window/music player buttons and, ultimately, all the juice from his battery was taken out somewhere and he got such a drained battery, he could not start. He recharged but this happened again and again. He then went to a garage mechanic and (as he said) as soon as he described his issues and as soon as the mechanic saw he had a roof deflector, he dismantled the driver's door arch panels and they saw corroded wires (apparently, that was a frequent LX570 to that mechanic). The mechanic cleaned and insulated them properly, took off the deflector and all went well since then. In the other case a third party car alarm system was causing a somewhat similar issue. Do you have one (or an optional Lexus remote starter)? I don't think it can really resolve the issue, but try replacing a battery in your key (if you have an electronic Push-to-Start key). Otherwise, indeed, looks like something to do with wires insulation -- and the car may have no error codes in such case.

If you browse the forum, I think most frequently the lights go up after refueling - and in most cases it's enough to tighten the fuel tank cap and clear the codes. I've never heard of no error codes while you have having the New Year tree illumination; also never heard (in this context) of issues with doors like you are experiencing. Firstly, I'd check fuses (ref. your car manual). Secondly, no error codes is really strange. I assume you are using some cheap error code reader -- you really need a dealer or alike equipment/software -- something mechanics use. Thirdly, if still no codes, probably you have improperly isolated wires and this is causing the lights to illuminate and doors not to work properly...

It's not a new model, it's a restyling

Try finding your car here (link) and the diagrams should tell you what those 3 wet lines to which you refer are about. A while ago one of my friends replaced a radiator on his Land Cruiser with a cheap aftermarket one. After a few months, his ATM broke off and he had to replace it (a costly one!). Then it happened again and he had to replace ATM for another time. He went to a service and it appeared that the lines in his aftermarket radiator, through which ATM fluid flows to get cooled, had micro cracks. Not sure if he had seen any leaks, but looks like through these cracks coolant leaked in to the ATM fluid, ultimately ruining the ATM. He finally replaced the radiator to the original model and all went well since then. So, suggest you don't experiment further and go to a dealer ASAP.

If the camera itself is not damaged (assume a visual check to verity this), then probably the wire has detached either from the clip on the camera unit or from a clip on another side (where it connects to the ECU). I'd start from the camera unit. You may have to remove the grille to get hold of the clip

DavidEW, so you have to replace the left visor itself (part # 74320, correct?) which is indeed expensive but NOT the visor bracket on the roof, correct? If so, I'd try searching the web for a cheaper aftermarket visor (by your part number) or maybe check a car breakdown place. As a temporary solution, try a scotch tape all the way through, visor to roof.

beachlover, you hid the last 2 digits of your VIN but your car was built in October 1999, correct? (as cars with VINs ending on "01 and "99" seem to be) link