eugene.s

OK, clear, no need for a video. I would try to move the seat back/to the front as far as possible and check the connectors between various wires underneath the seat. If you can't reach all of them, you may have the seat removed. I assume you've checked all the fuses first and that there are no error codes.

Hi John, I am not sure I understand what you are describing, can you post a video?

Thanks, Umarali, for sharing your experience. I've never experienced isolating a bad cell in a battery. When we suspect a quick battery drainage, my local folks here firstly suggest checking whether the alternator works OK and produces enough current in engine-on mode. So, next time my battery is out, I may use your 'total' load test experience. Out of Lexus, I've owned GX470 before and now own LX570 (2010). I've found stock batteries as not very good, even by their designed characteristics. Perhaps one of the best batteries I've found is INDIGO 115D31L (made in Korea) - proved to be compatible to both cars. But I think it costs significantly more than $100 (at least in my place).

You may want to do a 'computer diagnostics' for any error codes. Any error codes should perhaps address any non-physical problems (like a potential issue with the battery to which I referred earlier). If no error codes, it might be just loose connectors - to check on this, you'd need to dismantle and then assemble again the screen and perhaps the buttons parts (you've previously referred to not being able to change radio stations). If you want to do this by yourself, I suggest you find the procedure first (must be contained in the 'repair manual' for your car -- not to be confused with the 'owner's manual'). Or perhaps it'd be easier to ask some car electrician to do this for you (thus minimizing the risk of damaging parts by own operations). Edit: part numbers: http://www.toyodiy.com/

Hi, if your first problems started with the new battery, you may want to check if it's compliant with your car (ref. the marking on the battery vs. the requirements in the user manual). I hope you haven't put a 24V battery -- it may ruin all your electronics. I am not sure about RX but in LX the clock takes its data directly from GPS -- you cannot adjust the clock, just change the time zone. If it's the same in RX, then this must be a sign of problems with the electronics. If you originally changed the battery because it was draining abnormally fast (and not e.g. as a routing 3/5 years change), you may prefer to go to a car electrican for a check of your car's power consumers...

Hi, aftermarket parts often have a reference to the original part numbers they are comparable with. So, you can search shops (like eBay) for the original camera's part number (you can find it for your truck here: http://www.toyodiy.com/).

Even better to find a 'repair manual' for your car (not to be confused with the 'owner's manual').

This may be a universal procedure to all Lexus cars UPDATE..I'm feeling sorry for not having noticed this thread earlier...

Hi Tarry, I am glad that you've fixed your issue! If you can share any more knowledge (e.g. from your discussions with the dealer) of what the LPO standard may nowadays means (e.g. which defects Lexus considers tolerable and which they are supposed to fix), please share your knowledge - this forum is exactly designed for sharing knowledge between Lexus owners as individuals. Cheers

Hi, if your problem is with the wires, you won't resolve it by replacing your tuner/CD changer/amplifier/etc. unit (each unit by itself costs a few thousand $ and will simply burn out in case of poor wiring). Suggest that you: - check all the fuses (ref. the car manual; if you don't have it, download it from the Lexus website); - perform all the 'initialize' procedures (ditto); - perform 'computerized diagnostics' (get a car diagnostics reader connected to your car's ODB2 port and check for any errors recorded by your car and follow up from there; this service should be available from many places, not just from your Lexus dealer); - ring-out the wiring in your car (the price for it may lok be expensive, but it's times cheaper to replacing the units); and - revert to this forum if any unidentified issues.

Tarry, When I was purchasing my CPO Lexus (so far, the only CPO car I've purchased) from Sewell Texas in mid-2013, the only document referring to CPO I got was as attached (identification details deleted) -- I would assume the documentation may differ from dealer to dealer/State to State. By the way, the attached explains the CPO warranty which was given to my car, and it differed so some material extent from my previous expectations. I would suggest that you speak to your dealer about what you may expect, and get whatever warranty document straight on the spot and not my mail. Also, when I browsed the Lexus website (and the internet generally) at the time (mid-2013), I was unable to find any specific description of what exactly one was to expect from a CPO car (apart from general statements on the Lexus website that they had inspected the car from X number of angles; well, OK, can I see the results of your inspection, what have you fixed, what not). At the time, one guy at the forum (whom I trust, he was an official dealer at the time) said that the CPO requirements had been softened so that a CPO car was allowed (from memory) to have X number of scratches and other defects I hadn't expected. (My car actually did arrive to me with a few body/windshield defects which cost me a few hundred bucks to fix, but I am not sure of their origin -- I had had to contract a few third parties to get the car to Russia, where I am based, and the defects quite possibly could have been attributable to them). Also, if you register your car (by its VIN) on the official Lexus website (link), you should be able to see a full history of your car maintenance by Lexus dealers. Perhaps it would include some reference to some sort of 'certification' (in my case it included a reference to 'certified pre-owned PDI' -- whatever it may mean). All, anyone knows the requirements for CPO cars (like what is tolerable/what must have been fixed)? (it seems the CPO has nowadays been renamed to 'L-certified' but the description of it on the Lexus website seems to be similarly uncertain as was the case in 2013).

Hi there, I've never heard of anyone either changing the car's design bolt pattern (perhaps more costly than buying proper disks) or less of drilling extra holes in a disk -- both are related to serious HSE concerns. If you've done with 'physical' shops, why e.g. don't you go to Amazon, select your car in their "Auto" section and see what's of compatible disks you can chose from? There should be many 18'' 'simple' (non-luxury) models at the market.

Hi All, I am back to the forum (from another computer after a few weeks due to the crash of my 'master' laptop). 1990LS400, VBdenny, It's interesting. I found no proper topic on this forum, so replying here. Question: Do you find car speeds reported by consumer GPS devices to be reliable/accurate (at all; or yet even more reliable than the speed reported by your stock speedometer)? If so, why? This is no trolling, I really got interested in the subject. I personally almost always use my phone for GPS routing and car speed readings in unknown places. I am used to seeing GPS speed on the phone (so conveniently attached to the windshield just slightly below the eyes level). I am similarly used to seeing GPS readings' digits updated so often. These two factors have led me to (subjectively) perceive GPS speed readings as 'being reliable': from my 'vacation memory', in most of the cases when I've used GPS, I've also relied on its speed readings, not bothering myself to look at stock speedometers too often. As it's an interesting subject, I've done a bit of a research on the web about a month ago. Some highlights of what I've found (unfortunately, all that I'd downloaded/saved was lost with the crash of my laptop -- I hope the laptop is recoverable but It'd take some time to recover it). From memory: (1) Requirements as to stock speedometers: (1.1) are different in various countries. US law for commercial vehicles requires them not to read below the actual speed but allows a higher-speed reading of, from memory, up to 10%. I found no US federal requirements for non-commercial vehicles like which we own for domestic use; (1.2) in Europe (largely, the EU), a +/- 10% (maybe a higher number? 12%?; can't remember) tolerance is allowed; (1.3) in my research at the time, I mainly focused on the USA, less on the EU. However, Australian rules may be different. Theirs may be upside-down :). Web reports of when one was able to override speed tickets by referring to GPS speed readings are mostly related to Australia; (1.4) I think I've seen some similar speed-override reports from the States, but all were related to commercial- but not consumer-type GPS systems (i.e. you probably need to buy a GPS commercial subscription to really be able to refer to their GPS speed measurements in court -- see below). (2) Requirements as to GPS speed readings: (2.1) found no rules (not just any 'unified' rules - no rules at all). All sources that I found at the time (including what I took as an 'official' GPS source) were largely oriented at GPS positioning rather than speed measurements. All sources found referred that the GPS reliability is (a) subject to its design tolerance levels and (b) exposed to various environmental factors. Civilian GPS (like one we use in smartphones) is the least reliable of the GPS systems; military GPS is the most reliable (but still has its design tolerance level). In the middle, corporate GPS systems seem to be reliable enough so that their readings are sometimes accepted by courts as admissible+relevant evidence -- though, I've failed to find as to which particular level they may be more reliable than the civilian GPS. Examples of corporate GPS are, e.g., paid subscriptions to monitor your trucks/buses' speed and location. (2.2) having not found any sensible rules for GPS speed measurements, I started to look for scientific studies. Same as above, found a lot related to GPS positioning but only really a few reports related to GPS speed measurements. One of the studies I've found got some of my trust as the guys looked for GPS speed readings in the 'real world' environment and from various angles e.g. they tested GPS speed measurements from within a car, driving it from highways to city roads, from straight to curvy roads, and (from memory) built some other interesting factors into their analysis. Interestingly, from memory, they concluded that GPS (as far as it's speed measurement is involved) was ~20% accurate. I am feeling very sorry that I cannot provide proof-links or attachments. All the analysis has been performed on my laptop which has crashed (I expect that my laptop's memory is recoverable -- though it may take some time). In the interim, any further thoughts on the 'question' (repeated below) are welcome -- to me, this is a very interesting subject. When replying, please try to avoid the subjectivity/feelings and rather focus on facts. Question: Do you find car speeds reported by consumer GPS devices to be reliable/accurate (at all; or yet even more reliable than the speed reported by your stock speedometer)? If so, why?

Hi, perhaps it would be easier for you to go to some physical shop first to have a 'real' look on what's available/compatible. I see that 2010 GX460 models which were sold in North America (US/Canada) had two different model codes. However, the database shows that for both, the stock disks are 18" and are similar, you can find more specifications here: (hyperlink). You may also want to check your car manual - there might be some further specs in there. Though the stock disks are 18", my friend has put 20" disks on the same year model for summer driving and seems to have no issues save for perhaps that he had to buy low-profile 20" tires which are not only very expensive but behave somewhat worse (the issue I also have on my car which has 20") and with his 20" aftermarket disks he says he's never sure if his speedometer shows accurate speed. One advice: if they put salt or some anti-icing sh$t on roads in your place, DON'T buy disks with chrome coating - in 2 years at most the coating will become such a mess that anyone approaching you car at closer than 10' would be shocked and you'd definitely want new disks (your 2nd picture doesn't seem to be chrome; not sure of the 1st).

From the owner's manual to my previous 2005 GX470 (I don't expect your car to be different): QUOTE Engine oil selection “Toyota Genuine Motor Oil” is used in your Lexus vehicle. Use Lexus approved “Toyota Genuine Motor Oil” or equivalent to satisfy the following grade and viscosity. Oil grade: API grade SL “Energy–Conserving” or ILSAC multigrade engine oil. Recommended viscosity: SAE 5W–30 SAE 5W–30 is the best choice, for good fuel economy and good starting in cold weather. If SAE 5W–30 oil is not available, SAE 10W–30 may be used. However, it should be replaced with SAE 5W–30 at the next oil change. UNQUOTE You can find an official manual for your car by entering your VIN here: https://secure.drivers.lexus.com/lexusdrivers/my-lexus/home.do

I had a '05 GX before. 1) Firstly, I wouldn't rely on GPS readings, I would rely on speedometer (I think you are saying it has been checked). Secondly, what you described is perhaps just a normal operation: cruise control can't hit the brakes, it just stops hitting the acceleration when the speed starts to get closer to the set limit but if the road goes slightly downwards you will inevitably start running at a higher speed than set. 2) Even if admissible, GPS readings will likely be considered irrelevant as civil GPS has a tolerance + its accuracy depends on a number of environmental factors + reliability of GPS software is not a given, etc.

Paul, this is great that you come here, ready for sharing knowledge. I don't have SAT radio in my country but I think it may greatly help others (either now or in the future) if you could indeed post instructions while your memory on this is fresh. Good luck!

Are you confident you are using the stock key (not an aftermarket replacement)? Otherwise the issue should be with the dealer...

Strange. I'd try to disconnect the car's battery for 2 mins and remove the battery from the fob. Then reconnect and see if it works now?

Hi, the obvious questions are: (1) was is too cold in your place (comparing to the previous days/weeks) when your battery(ies) died (in the vast majority of cases, a poor battery would die in the extreme cold); (2) how many miles did you drive a day back then (i.e. did your battery(ies) really have a chance to re-charge); (3) how exactly did you do the parasitic draw test (it seems the ECU "shuts off" to an idle consumption in 5-15 mins or so after the engine was shut down -- before then, any measurements would be useless; people say one needs to monitor consumption for at least 30 mins thereafter; there is also a science about doing the measurements -- like where you connect devices and how you read them). Less then a month ago it got unusually cold in my place (-30C and below), I had a drained battery (I had known it was dying, so that was not a big surprise). Replaced it with a quasi-new battery (my neighbor had purchased it "new" a year if not two ago; I had no chance to re-charge that battery before placing it on my vehicle; so, I took it as it was as it showed a green charge indicator) -- same result, a drained battery again (in a week). Then I got a completely new battery (just from the shop) and went to a (non-dealer) service, checked everything (they even took out my generator and checked it on a stand) and everything was OK. No problems since then (though, it's been -30-35C a couple of nights since then). I guess, the matter was in poor batteries...which I would have not known were poor unless the unusual cold had kicked in... As to power consumption level -- it really depends on how you measure it. When I had my problem, I googled a lot and there is apparently a science about how you test it...

Hi, Hoze. You need to find a "repair manual" for the car -- the one dealers use -- it has detailed instructions on such things, like what/how you need to remove first, then second, etc.

I live close to the shore (equal to a "Rusty State" in the U.S. terminology) and I've seen smth like this even on early 2000's cars. I'd be concerned - you never know what's the condition of electric systems/wires given the visible rust level underneath the car. And whether you'd be able to sell the car at a good price when time comes

KMM, No, I've not heard about that happening with any year GX460's (though we don't have a dealer in my remote place, there are a number of such trucks now here). Your car is under warranty -- let us know feedback from your dealer for knowledge sharing.

One of my friends had the same problem just due to a poor connection of wires behind the seat. That was not visible at computer diagnostics or a general observation of the vehicle. It took him maybe a month taking chances...until he found the reason by a chance -- he dismantled his seat and visibly inspected all the wires (yes, he had a wires diagram with him)

Think about mudguards