cduluk

Hmm, I would definitely make them move the emblems to where they're supposed to be. If they damage the emblems or damage the tailgate, they'll fix it. Make sure they put the emblems back to the right measurements too LOL =)

What are you talking about? How does this relate to the original poster's question? To the OP... you NEED the load resistors for LED turn signals. They take in current and turn it into heat to imitate a bulb actually being there. If you leave out the load resistors, your LED's will hyper-flash (blink too rapidly). But they won't burn out quicker without them.

Oh definitely have them replace it... It'll bother you forever (i know it would drive me crazy!) Here are some pics/measurements of mine. All original, never had the tailgate damaged. I hope this helps! :)

Hmm... that's odd. They must have done a color blend into the tailgate (but i don't know why, since there wasn't any damage to the tailgate itself). In order to paint the tailgate they'd need to remove the emblems, and the double sided tape on the reverse of the emblems would be ruined, so they'd need to order new ones. They must have just ordered the wrong year emblems. The 06 "RX400h" emblems were all chrome but for 07 and 08 just the "400h" had that blue. But only the "400h" part would have the blue, the "RX" part is left only chrome. I've never heard of this "anti-rust coating" and i don't know why they'd be worrying about rust, since neither the impact absorber, styrofoam absorber, bumper or little components that attach them to the car could ever rust. The bumper is rubber and the impact absorber is aluminum. Can you list everything else that's on the invoice? And is it just me or is the "RX" a little higher than the "400h"? This is how it should look, level with the "400h" part.

You mean for the 3rd and lowest tab for the headlight? The bolts for the lower tabs that hold the headlight to the fender are identical to the bolts at the top, totally interchangeable. <_< Do you know what you've gotta do to get them aligned properly? Show us some pics!

I assume you are talking about the red side markers at the lower back (left and right) of the bumper? If so, you need to remove the bumper a few inches to gain access to the light units.

IMO that's not worth it. If you're going to spend all that time, you'd may as well retrofit some LS400 CCFL needles in there. Unfortunately, you can't get the lexus needles from Lexus (you can only get the whole cluster), the only way to get them is to get them from ebay. just ebay "lexus needle" and you should find several auctions. Only issue is that your GS uses different needles from those in the ES300, so you need to make sure the ones you get are from another 93-97 GS300. I would also purchase at least 2 (presently) working needles of each meter (speedometer, tachometer, gas, engine temp) as they might burn out in the future. The needles aren't that expensive. <_< And beware of any "repair services" as they don't actually repair them properly. They just rip out the guts and throw a single LED at the center facing the tip, which don't illuminate the needles entirely. Go with used factory needles. <_<

I hope the wipes you got aren't by ArmorAll... Well, it all depends on how much you are willing to spend. Honestly, i can't suggest any of the leather conditioners or cleaners that you'd find at Autozone or anywhere local. I've used Lexol's cleaner/conditioner, but in my old Rx300 it just made the leather worse. I got little hairline cracks EVERYWHERE and material from my pants always stuck to it. Since then i've only used Leatherique's "Leather Rejuvenator" and "Prestine clean". It's pretty expensive and only available to purchase online, but it works wonders. I've tried quite a few leather conditioners before, but nothing works like this stuff does. It's best for trying to get old hard leather to be soft again. It also leaves the leather with a nice clean, matte finish (no shine) making even old leather look new (er). If i were you, i'd invest in the Leatherique.

What do you mean when you say "dash light illuminates"?- which dash light? And when you say "the one side of the light housing doesn't work"- do you mean the white back-up bulb or the entire tail light?

Most likely the sensors just need a cleaning. They can be easily removed and opened up to be cleaned. Some of the contacts are probably dirty. <_< The sensors aren't very complex. I'm not sure how they could ever be damaged beyond cleaning. When you open them up you'll see how simple they are. Just a few springs and some metal tabs.

Well, what you describe "could" have happened by pressing both at the same time, but we can't really tell... I've never heard of this happening before. There have been reports of Toyota's and Lexus' "taking off" on people (i'm sure you've seen this in the news) but there was never any proof, and it usually happened while cruising at highway speeds. I wouldn't worry about it for now. Just "be on the lookout" for it, in case it happens again. If it happens again, then do something about it.

Also, you don't need to remove the entire foglight "housing" to remove the bulb, just reach your arm behind it (through the wheel liner) and twist the bulb out of the housing.

Sounds like a good plan, make sure to post your results! :D

Sounds good, let me know how things measure up (no pun intended) because it could determine what the issue really is. Is there any way you could contact the body shop that did the repairs? Or maybe the dealer that sold it to you? If there is indeed frame damage, you may have the right to make the dealer fix it. Just something to think about. <_<

did they offer to "switch" yours with another car's? That's what Lexus offered me after they broke my nav unit after doing a repair on the car...

I've "accidentally" bought the after-market keys on ebay, and i could tell the difference right away. I'm not too concerned with longevity, it's "quality" and "feel" that concerns me. This happened about 3 months ago when i was working on my key mod (see the link in my signature) and they're still up on ebay. There are a couple after-market keys on ebay. Here's the worst of the worst. No ridges in the blade (which guide it into the ignition cylinder) and the plastic mold leaks along the edges (not smooth). The plastic case isn't "rounded" as the OEM shell is, it has sharper angles. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Key-SHELL-Blade-LEXUS-ES-300-GS-LS-LX-RX-SC-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4aa431b300QQitemZ320582300416QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Here's another... A little better, at least it has the ridges in the blade, but the shell has foreign lettering on it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LEXUS-3-Buttons-Remote-Key-Case-Shell-Cover-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c55850360QQitemZ190413341536QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Here’s the one I got. Blade’s not bad, but the "flat" part at the tip isn't long enough, so it often got caught in the ignition. And the shell is crap. The emblem is plastic with some yellow chrome covering (that chipped when I tried to get it out) and the plastic isn’t of the same “texture” as the OEM one. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2002-2009-LEXUS-SC430-REMOTE-KEY-REPLACEMENT-SHELL-CASE-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZMakeQ3aLexusQQhashZitem3a5dcf45e0QQitemZ250681968096QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories There’s a way to tell whether it’s OEM or not. The fake shells have sharper angles, and aren’t as rounded as the OEM ones. If you hold a new OEM key and an after-market one, you’ll feel the difference. If you don’t, then you shouldn’t be driving a Lexus…

You may want to peel the rest off, as it'll have to come off anyways before a re-paint. <_<

Hmmm... that is very odd. Can you take a picture to show "how much" they're slanted? Is this what you mean by slanted? Also, are both beams parallel with each other? Or is only one side slanted and the other OK? If BOTH beams are BOTH slanted to the right, your problem may not be with the headlights, but with the car's frame. You mentioned the car was in an accident... well if the horizontal "frame" that the headlights sit in is slanted, the headlight beams will be as well. Try measuring the height of the car off the ground, measure the front left (from bottom of bumper to ground) and the front right. Also try measuring the height of the headlights themselves to the ground.

I just did a headlight retrofit on my Rx400h (same headlights as Rx330/350) and i spent a LOT of time aligning them. Projector to projector they're about 57 inches, so at ANY distance, the "steps" (area of each beam where it appears to change height) should remain at about 57 inches away. Also make sure each beam is angled 90 degrees to the front of the car. Angle to the ground is your choice. I made these diagrams real quick, hope they help! I should also add, there are TWO adjustment screws to control the projector. One is for left and right movement, and the other is for up and down movement. You need BOTH screws to get them aligned on both the horizontal and vertical axis'. When you rotate adj screw "B" the "angle" of the horizontal beam will flatten out as well. The projectors pivot on the two adjustment screws (hinged from the bottom). So if the screws are adjusted improperly, the projector beam will not be level (ie slanted). See this picture: Adjustment screw "A" is a philips head screw. Rotating it will control the projector up or down. You can gain access to this screw from the top of the engine compartment. Adjustment screw "B" is actually a little nut, (not sure what size... but i think it's American) which can be rotated to control the left and right movement of the projector. You'll need to remove the wheel well liner to gain access to this little guy. To "aim" your headlights properly, park maybe 20ft from a wall. decide how high you want the projectors to be, and make a mark on the wall. Then start rotating the adjustment screws so that you get them aligned to that height. Then worry about the left and right placement. Stand behind the car, put your head over the rear tail light (on rear 1/4 panel) and connect the dots between your location and the space between the mirror and the door. THAT'S where the "step" should be. As soon as you get one alighned, get a tape measure and measure ~57 inches from the step. THAT'S where the other headlight's step should be. One warning though... If you turn the adjustment screws WAY beyond their limits, the projector could literally come off of the screws themselves, and not be able to get back on. The symptoms of this are EXTREME variances of how "level" the beam are (ie left side of the beam is WAY lower than the right side) and if the projector(s) seems to "rattle" when touched or going over bumps. IF this happens, you'll need to remove the back round gray cover behind the projector, and PULL the projector back while turning the adjustment screws, in an attempt to "catch" the projector back onto the screw. You can also see the link in my signature, "My Rx400h's Headlight Retrofit Project" for more pictures of the headlights and how the beams look when properly aligned. I hope this helps!! If you're still confused on anything let me know. <_<

Hmm, i can't tell either. Can you call your Lexus dealer and ask which part number it is? If you give them your VIN# they'll be able to tell you the one your car needs.

The ICE reset takes like a minute... is it really that big of a deal?

Oh that's not that bad... have you tried ebay?

What part is that exactly?

Hmm... I'm not sure. I have no idea what the lenses are on that site.

OH NO!! Let me guess, you used a dremel... When i read intakerGS's comment suggesting using a dremel, the first thought that popped into my head was "NO, it can burn too easily". Then i saw your pics... :( The dremel is a good tool but NOT for polishing. The little 2" diameter polishing wheels create a TON of heat while spinning even at a VERY low speed, creating more than enough to burn right through plastic. I learned this lesson the hard way too. The dremel polisher should only be used to get out deep scratches or sandpaper marks, as it's incredibly aggressive. For the spots you had, simply rubbing the area with a cotton rag with a little compound would have done the trick. Unfortunately at this point there's nothing you can really do. It appears from the pic that the burns are deep, probably close to half way through the thickness of the plastic. You could "try" to wetsand and polish the burns out, but you'd need to remove the plastic lenses from the radio and do it properly, and my guess is that it'll result in waviness and the plastic will become too thin and crack. You could also buy some plexiglass and cut out a duplicate piece, but it'd be nearly impossible to match the thickness and curvature of the original lens, and matching the black trim would be pretty hard... My suggestion would be to replace the entire radio unit, either a used one from ebay or from somewhere else... There's a member on this site, username "dcfish", contact him, as he gets a lot of these types of parts for pretty cheap. If you can, take some daytime pics and post them here. If the burns are concentrated towards only the center of the screen, you might be able to get away with wetsanding. If the burns are less than a cm away from the sides, it'll be tight though... But post some day shots and i'll give you my best guess. Sorry that happened... but trust me, it could be worse. :(