killerFatty

black and white

Will Smith

smart car

I had about the same amount of carbon on my TB aswell, and it to a couple hours of elbow grease to get it all off. Sine the dealer around here dosen't normally charge $25 an hour, I would too be a tad suspicious of what exactly they are doing. As far as taking off the TB, it wasn't too dificult. Just take off the air intake up to the TB and the four bolts holding it on as well as a hose or two, then your ready to clean. Make sure you have the gasket BEFORE you take off the TB. I made that mistake and had to waste the better part of the day trying to track one down. I say just clean it yourself, and see the improvment. You'll be happy you did.

Thanks a bunch. :D Im planning on getting a optima when my current battery goes dead. I also plan on doing a similar exhaust pretty soon. I also found a sway bar on ebay that was made for the 1st gen LS. I'll put up the link. I don't think that I will do anything with the stock air box. It seems to flow pretty well. The only thing I might consider is a cone filter adapter.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LEXUS-LS400...eQ5fCarQ5fParts

will it fit with no mod? If not what do I have to do to make it fit?

I got a few ?'s. WHere did you get that cone air filter adapter? Where did you get that sway bar? What was the exhaust set up like on her? How did you like the optima battery?

Candy bar

On AllData it said there is an upper and lower oil pan gasket. Upper said 14 hours of labor to replace I don't know what all is involved with that, but the lower is only sapposes to take 2.2 hours. It only took me about 30 minutes to replace my friends oil pan gasket on his 96 mazda. All I did was pop out the 16 bolts and a solid hit with a mallet took care of it. Just make sure to clean both the pan's and engine's maiting surface. Good luck.

If it's comming from the drain plug, it could be you need a new crush washer or the threads are striped. If it's comming from the top of the oil pan it could be an oil pan gasket. Hope that helps.

failure

overflow

Most of the time the coolant temp sensor just gets old and doesn't work as well as it used to.. most likely won't throw a code.. it's just something that should be replaced every once in a while.

It may not be broke enough to throw a code... but it IS "broke" enough to be hindering your fuel efficiency. My advice to anyone with a 1st or 2nd gen that has never had it replaced.. would be to change it out ASAP.

Your mileage/performance WILL improve!

I couldn't agree with you more!

One thing I can add is that if the coolant temp sensor has never been replaced... DO IT! That has a major effect on MPGs.

By replacing mine my daily AVG went from 17-18mpg to 20-21mpg

IMHO this is the best mpg improver mentioned. When I got my car, I ran a tank of gas through it and was averaging 7 MPG. I almost cried. The first thing I did was this little sensor. My mpg went from 7 to 12 with a lead foot and about 15-16 under normal driving. Throttle response also improved significantly. I got my Coolent temp. sensor from autozone for $20 and its already saved twice that much in fuel.

Please fellas, lets not "Draft" behind 18 wheelers on the interstate. for one truckers really REALLY hate that, and big rigs are designed to stop quickly with a heavy load. if they have a reason to slam on the brakes, even your Bruce Lee reflexes will not save your LS transforming into an instant convertible, let alone take your head off. if you cant see the side mirrors of the big truck...back off or go around them.

I have talked to a more than a few big rig drivers that only use the trailer breaks and not the actuall truck breaks. That way they dont have to replace the breaks near as often. Having said this, I DON'T ADVOCATE DRAFTING!!! There is nothing worse than a *BLEEP*ed off trucker so dont do it.

:snoooorrrtttt:

have you checked auto trader or cars.com. Maybe even the local craigslist.

As I pulled into my driveway I noticed a funny smell and smoke from my hood. After I opened the hood I saw coolent ALL OVER. The insulation on the hood itself was completely soaked, and just about everything else was covered in coolent. I noticed steam coming from the T-stat housing and saw that the top stud had snapped. After I relieved the pressure by slowly opening the resivour cap, I looke at the damage. All that looked wrong was the snapped stud, so I figured I needed new coolent anyway and I drained the last pint out of the radiator. After spending about ten minutes trying to get the stud out without damageing the threads, I took it to the local ace hardwhere and got a replacement. I got two gallons of coolent and some gasket maker as well as the bolt all for $18 using my friends 20% off card. I re-sealed the T-Stat housing and bolted it back on. I put a gallon of coolent in through the filler cap on the engine, and another gallon and a half in through the resivour. After drying just about everything I could, I put all the covers and air intake back on. After spraying off my driveway for ten minutes, I started her up and she drove fine. I let it get warm enough for the T-stat to open and no problems yet. My main question is: Does coolent hurt belts? It got on my serpentine belt as well as my timing belt. Other than that I thought I would post my adventure for the week and see what you guys thought. I still cant believe that it only cost me $18 to fix the problem. I wonder what the stealer would have charged me??

Sorry about the double post. I am not sure how to delete the other one.

I used a can of carb cleaner from price chopper and had no problems. The results were great. I don't think it matters too much as long as you just spray the butterfly valves and not any of the electrical stuff. I don't see a need to spend a bunch of money on some fancy MAF cleaner. Just use Carb cleaner. If you were cleaning the MAF sensor though, I would be very carefull on what you select and how you apply it. All I did was sprazy the carb cleaner directly on my butterfly valve, let it sit for a couple minutes and scrub. I had about 2-3 mm thick of carbon build up, so it took a little elbow grease.

clothes iron

what type of bulbs do I need for my 93? are they 9003?

I plan on doing my custom exhaust this summer. I was thinking about running 2 cherry bomb resonators and two flowmasters through 2 1/4" off the stock Y-pipe. Does that sound good or should I just leave out the cherry bombs? Also what about aluminum insted of Stainless for the piping? Is there any major drawbacks? The local exhaust shop only has aluminium not SS.

CL has a great sticky on PS issues, why cant we???

1993 LS400 180K

I need a price with estimate on shipping to kansas for 4 18" chrome LS400 wheels. I also need a piece of passanger side finder trim you can see it on my thread. It's kinda hard to describe.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...hl=fixed+almost

93ls400walt,

Shouldn't be the seals or valves - I just had the tranny rebuilt by a Toyota recommended indie(?) They did, however, put in Dxron III, in spite of my requesting they use only Type IV Fluid. Anyway, everything seemed fine for the first few months. However, now, while the engine is still under normal operating temp, the shifting is fine, then at normal operating temps, the shifting goes south. Seems like after it goes from first into third or O/D - just drags butt(?) I find I have to drop it down into L to begin moving faster. Could this be related to the solenoids, and speed sensor?

Thx

I would put my money on the dxron three as being the culpret. read around and youll see these cars need Toyota type 4 tranny fluid. It most likley destroyed your tranny again, and if the people that put it in really are toyota recommended you should go complain and herass them until they rebuild it again and use the right fluid. Sorry the news isn't better.