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killerFatty

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Posts posted by killerFatty

  1. I have the same model year. I changed my belt at 105k on the recommendation of my mechanic(non-lexus), who said that the belts are very beefy. He also said that this motor would not be hurt if the belt broke, but another reader said that this year did not have that type of engine. Regardless, the belt I had replaced looked great. No cracks wear etc.

    Someone correct me if I am wrong but I am very confident that anything '95 and newer is an interferance engine, which means the car will be totaled if the T-belt breaks because the engine will have smashed valves and all sorts of crazy damage. So the motor will be hurt if the belt breaks. Having seen the belt on my '93, which I don't know if it is the same as your's or not, after 100K and 9 years it is only showing minor sines of wear. (Knock on wood it doesn't now decide to break) I personally believe the lexus scedualed matainence is very conservative and on the safe side. I would think Lexus would want to make for certain that not a single T-belt would break within more than a few thousand miles of their recomendation. Just MHO. Personally I would visually check, or better yet have a pro check the T-belt for cracks or any sine of wear. If it looks good, then I wouldn't worry about driving it home as long as you get it done within a timely manor.

  2. more sidewall = more cushion and slightly more body roll. 245/45 is a good bit of sidewall, but you might try something in the 245/55 range. switching from hancock to primacys will probably make a lot of differance just by its self though. Just my 2 cents.

  3. that clicking and clunking sound is most likely coming from the ball joint in upper control arms, which means you need to replace the whole upper control arm. That should deffinetly be one of the things replaced, but I would recommend having it professionally looked at to see what all exactly needs replaced so you don't just throw parts at it even though at with that poor of ride everything will probably need to be replaced. Struts, lower control arms, strut mounts are all most likely on the list as well.

  4. Go to a dealership with a similar 98 LS and "test drive" it... swap out the knobs.... LOL :lol:

    Or better yet... maybe just buy from BillyD ;)

    HAHAHA :D If only it were that easy. It is farly complecated to swap the knobs. You have the O/D switch and wires to mess with too. It took me 5 minutes to swap shift knobs in an 85 Chevy S10 I looked at the one in my LS and said NO WAY.

  5. Then again, for the average person, I would've recommended just junking the car. Not everyone has the ability to use personal relationships to get cheap framework done.

    FYI The framwork was the only thing done truly perfessionally. It took by far the greatest part of the money spent. $1k It was done by a professional body frame and strcture guy with over 30 years of experiance. It wasn't some hack in his back yard with a cheap frame machine. Was it done perfectly, no, but was it done poorly no. Just thought I'd let everyone know that.

  6. There is absolutely no way that this damage can be repaired cost-effectively--used parts or not.

    That sucks man, I feel bad for you! I imagine you can get $1000 or so for it. At least you have your health!

    killer, if your car is driveable, take it to Eveland Brothers for an estimate: http://evelandbros.com/

    Eveland is probably the best in town for repairing fairly expensive cars -- we've used them too many times to repair damage caused by idiots who crashed into our cars while talking on their phones instead of paying attention to driving.

    I'm going to take a wild guess at what Eveland will estimate the repair cost for your car would be -- $17,250. The rear of my 90 LS was crashed in in 1999 and it cost just over $10,000 to repair -- and the damage to it was not as bad as the damage to your car. Let me know how close I am. I suspect I am low on my estimate.

    If we can somehow get you to survive to age 20 and stop competing for a "Darwin Award", I think you'll be OK: http://www.darwinawards.com/

    Yep...thats a total...time to move on to something else...
    I think jerry's givien you a detailed sumary of how it would go and what to expect. What not to expect is that it would ever be the same if you went ahead with repairing it. Part it out or use it as a back up for another LS of the same vintage. I know the feeling of having invested a fair amount into a ride only to have it totalled. The hurt only lasts until you get the next one. ;)
    So you want him to get an estimate (which will be on the order of $20,000) just for *BLEEP*s and giggles? :P

    The purpose of getting an estimate is to know the cost of repairing the car and to learn exactly what has to be done to repair the car. There is no reason to just speculate on what the repair will cost.

    Sure there is--when it's blatantly obvious that the cost to repair the car is several times more than what the car is (or was) worth. This is not a 2000 Platinum like yours!

    By the way killerfatty, get that thing out of your driveway. You're bringing the property values down! :D :D (Just kidding)

    Buddy...you need to let this car go.

    You have to think about your safety too, and getting it "to where the trunk will close" is not thinking about your safety.

    NEGATIVE NAEGATIVE NEGATIVE!!! Isn't the glass always half full?? Good thing I didn't listen to you guys :P LOL A lesson in persitance and perserverance might be in order :D JK ... sorta

    Thanks Randy for being encouraging

  7. For $1513, not bad! But then again, it does look like you spent about $1513 on the repair.

    Ya that is what I was thinking. I might be able to save up a few hundred bucks and get my body guy to get the 1/4 panel completely straight, but then I will need to repaint it. However with the color matching the way it is, I would do it if i had the money. I think if I get the color mathced by the cool little take a couple pictures of the paint and match the color thing-a-ma-bob it would match better than just using the factory paint code. I matched the bumper by way of this little tool and can't wait to see the color.

  8. based on the dry residue left around the coolent resivior, I'd say it's leaking. Mine looked just like that and lost about a cup every two weeks depending on how much I drove. I got a new resivour off a parts car from a guy I know for $20 and it was suprising super easy to replace. Hasn't leaked a drop since. Just look for a used one in good condition and swap them out. Not a major job at all.

  9. In terms of performance, Lexus claims 0-60 times of 6.4 seconds for the 01-03 and 5.9 seconds for the 04-06. That's a pretty significant difference. I don't believe either of the numbers themselves (Consumer Reports clocked the 01 in 7.1 seconds), but I don't doubt the significant acceleration advantage the 04-06 would have based on the gear ratios.

    You know what I just found out? The LS isn't a performance car, go figure? :huh: so don't worry your self with the acceleration. :D You will be happy with what ever year you decide. Based on what I have heard, and only what I've heard, the air suspension tends to be a major PITA

  10. The trunk and 1/4 panel are finally painted. All that is left is the bumper which I will do when the weather decides to cooperate. I'll try my hardest to post pics tomorrow as well as paint the bumper. So far, and I don't foresee much more, I am only out $1493. I think All I need is one more can of clear coat which is $20. So $1513 is not bad considering the original damge.

  11. I have shot a pair under my car when trying to raise the back wheels and pushed a pair up against a wall when trying to raise the front of my car almost smashing my car through the wall.
    For you, the likelihood of shooting the car through a wall is probably less when it's on ramps than when you are driving it around town. :D :lol:

    (JUST KIDDING!)

    For you, the likelihood of shooting the car through a wall is probably less when it's on ramps than when you are driving it around town. :D :lol:

    Oh, how true! :lol:

    Hang in there, Killer.

    Thanks alot guys. :rolleyes: I guess I diserve that. :D LOL Thanks for the laughs...

  12. I use a small floor jack and jack a pair of jack stands. Craftsman and most other national brands make pretty good floor jacks, however don't buy a cheap $20 one like my first one. I lasted two months than crapped out. Bottle jacks also work well. Just get something high quality and rated at least 2 tons if not more. Personally I have never had good luck with ramps. I have shot a pair under my car when trying to raise the back wheels and pushed a pair up against a wall when trying to raise the front of my car almost smashing my car through the wall. I have never learned the proper way to use ramps so I just stay away from them. What ever works for you though, go with it. Good Luck :cheers:

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