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killerFatty

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Everything posted by killerFatty

  1. you'd be suprised! i once let my p/s pump leak just a bit too long without refilling it, and it howled, whined and grinded. The resivour was near dry, but once I refilled it it was next to perfect. I ended up replaceing the pump 3 weeks later because of the leak, so I cant really tell you how, if at all, it causes premature wear and tear.
  2. maybe I should have looked at it before I bought a new car. I just sold my LS and bought a 94 Integra. The difference is WHOA HUGE. I will miss that hint of luxury and class. O well I guess. See you guys later.
  3. Mine did. My tach started reading a little low, then a little lower and now nothing. The needle is the culpret. I can wiggle the needle a little and get it to work temporarily, but that involves taking the whole cluster out just to pull on a needle, and it doesn't stay fixed long. I would also think that a speed sensor or other sending unit would throw a code.
  4. http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/2010600180.html I havn't seen an LS like this in a while. Still has its service done at the Lexus dealer.
  5. Hello I joined here when I was 14. I am now 17 and let me tell you I have learned more from here then I ever thought possible. The people are super nice...usually, and there is always someone who cares enough to find an answer to your question. You will probably need to have your gauge cluster rebuilt. The two faulty needles will likely need to be replaced. You can research places that rebuild lexus gauge clusters. I rebuilt mine myself and would offer to help you out but my car is first generation and yours is second generation so I doubt there will be many similarities. The good news is it sounds like a gauge cluster problem not a mechanical problem. Sorry I couldn't help more.
  6. I got a piece of metal welded to the back of the remaining part of the bracket and its holding great. I also had the non broken bracket strengthened. My tires are getting shredded though because they have no grip and just start spinning during hard cornering. Makes for great donuts though LOL.
  7. well I did like it! The bracket you mount the end link to on the car itself snapped. When I was struggling to get that bolt off of the old end link on the car I used an angle grinder and put a bit of a gouge in that bracket. What should I do? Sorry the pictures got rotayed to the left.
  8. I didnt have any grease on hand at the lucky moment when they pooped into place, so mine are un greased and make lots of noise. I just barrowed some grease from a friend today and plan on lubing them up very well tomorrow. I have hit the highways and many a cury road since the install. I previously had the front strut tower bar in there and it made a good difference, but the combonation of the two is awesome. I need more supportive seats, and stickier tires. Without the sway bar the body roll would be a good indicater of how much further until the cornering limit was reached, but with her new handleing characteristics I find it much easier to reach the grip limit without realizing it. Like I said stickier tires I suspect would help quite a bit, and the one I have on there now have A 70K mile warrenty and with 9K on them they are right at halfway worn so I suspect another new set is in my near future and they will be much more perforfmance oriented.
  9. I agree on it being a good idea, but I have no Idea what kind of work it will take.
  10. i got it in there!!! After many monthes of little problems it's finally found its new resting place. I also put my front strut tower brace back in, and let me say WOW!!!!! There is not even a quarter of the body roll it had before. It still rides just as smooth as it did before, but cornors so much better. All it took to get it in was turning it the other direction and getting some longer bolts for the brackets that hold the bushings. It was totally worth all the hard work.
  11. brembo are great rotors and about half the price. You can get super cheap ones on ebay, but the metal quality is a little sketchy. I have a front set of cross drilled and slotted rotors for a 90-92, I dont remember what bran, but they are of good quality. I can ship to you for $75. If you dont every drive supper agressivly you dont need cross drilled and slotted rotors though. I call my car the LF400A. Stick with a brand name. You can go to an auto parts store and get two steps up from the cheapest and you will have no problems.
  12. I got new end links and the old ones out, but now I cant get the new bar in without it hitting the under body. Could some send me a pic of how you have the sway bar in there please? Also the new brackets dont mount up flush. Did you guys have to trim the bushing brackets? BTW this project is now in its third month.
  13. Dont you have that backwards? It is running rich to warm up the cats and O2 sensors. Similer to the way a lawn mower or other small engine idles higher when they are chocked, because less air means more fuel to burn so it has to speed up rpms to burn the extra gas with less air per combustion cycle.
  14. well your best bet is to run a new four channel amp to power your door speakers, but that is an expensive option just to get them working if you dont want all out loudness. From what I have gathered, the speakers run to the amp and then to the head unit. I don't know if the amp powers them or not but I have the pioneer system and all my door speaker wires ran to my factory amp, because when I put in my four channel amp I ran the speaker wire to the factory amp and used the factory wiring harness to carry the power to the door speakers. It seems a little strange that your tweeters still work, although I dont know where they get power from. It seems likly that if your factory amp dies, then you will lose your connection between the head unit and the speakers, even if the head unit is powering them.
  15. the filter attached to the pump in the tank is just a screen, not really a filter. It doesnt need to be changed unless your changing the fuel pump.
  16. You got the 97 so lets hope you get at least low 17s. The safest way to launch is off the brake at WOT. Mine stalls around 1500rpm I'm guessing yours is about the same, so you dont have to worry about spinning the wheels. If you want to be a little more agressive, and have a good tranny mount, drop it from nuetral at aroun 3k rpm. But I dont recomend doing that too much. I tried it once and the huge THUNK it made, scared me enough not to try it again. BTW do you have anything what so ever done performance wise to your LS?
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