mburnickas

I know in my 98 it states using ATF DEX 2 or DEX 3. Just trying to help you out.

Have fun..Is not the Ps fluid just ATF as outlined in the book?

Why do it at a non lexus dealer? My dealers are all $225 for a new belt and $200 for water pump. So at the least it is $225. Cheap for me. But then again a belt is like $40

I assume you mean the normal rad cap and then the one of the overflow reserve.

SK--I totally agree. I am going to waster about 1 hour to test a $15 thermo...sure ok!!!! All I know is what works and I am sure there are a billion trillion ways, as dr evil would say.

Yours is the long version but means the same thing. When you hold a rad hose and squeeze it you never hear the metal pin on a thermostat (makes a metal kitting metal sound)? I have done this on my lexus, Kubota tractor, gsxr1100, ML-430 and my old diesel truck. All do it and that is how I know if the system has air or a thermostat problems. Lastly, how do you know it is up to operating temp when the "moron" meter does work correctly? A much simpler way is to idle the car for like 5 to 10 and then feel the hose. If cold, you have a few minor things. Way off,could be but they work for me and I am not the only on to do this. This was a huge problem on my old diesel truck with a closed system with no overflow collant bottle. This is what had to be done (listen for thermo) from diesel grease monkeys. :D

From what I have done is feel the top hose. If cool, it is air bound. Also it you squeeze the top hose you should hear the thermostat make a sound. If not, it if air bound.

You do not need to buy Toyota coolant. He has a 95 and can use any EG coolant, just like my 98....Wait, we had this topic before. I used distilled water before but after testing the water since I have a salt water reef tank I will not be using that. On my next flush on my car I am using RO/DI water...the best of the best of the best... :D :D

For the speciifc year, yes it is EG (Ethylene Glycol)- Even my 98 is EG.

NO- Your coolant in your car is EG and Dexcool is WAY differant. The color is not important but what it is made of is.

I agree with skperformance. There are (3) sensors. Two are in the engine bay on the manifold and the other before cat. 6 hours??? What did they do charge you for waiting for the car to cool down after driving? Something does not seem right. Dealers flat rates are for the morons that can't read. The book they go by is "padded" big time.

Sure, but both ways are 100% fine. I asked my buddy that owns a tranny shop and he even stated changing the tranny filter at each interval in not needed. Also said as long as the manufacture of the fluid meets or exceeds the proper spec it is fine. My in-laws own a shop in CT and say the same thing. Guarantee's are only as good as the paper it is written on. It is like when you buy ANY car they ask you if you want to buy the extended warrenty. I say, do I need it with THIS car? Is your car built that badly that I need it? If it is built correcty you should not need it. I had a dodge sales guy push it and I left and said keep the junk if you push the warrenty that bad.... It is like my GSX-R1100 it was in the shop three times within the first month when I got it and never since then (that was 10 years ago). Did not need the warrenty. Same with my Kubota BX22.

I use Amsoil ATF in my 98 and works mint. Passes Dexron III and all the others. It cost me $60 for all the fluid, filter and gasket. Took about 30 minutes. Not starting a war, but I find it VERY hard to believe an ES holds 18 to 20 qts. My old diesel truck (1-ton F350) only held 19 & that tranny was 3X has big as an ES. The pan held over 9 qts. My ES drains 3.7 qt and another 0.5 for diff. The TC maybe holds 7 to 8 (if you drain it manually). Still do not get it.

yup, rotors are trash. Either your caliper is causing the problem of just heat from normal usage.

I put OEM pads on front ($35) and OEM on back ($44) and there are nice and quiet!

Well my 1998 is NOT behind the Glove box. It is on the right of the gas pedal behind the mat, and the white cover. PS. There was NO filter in there when I bought it.

As Lexusfreak stated we NEED to know what year before we tell you to add this and that many qt. All years are not the same.

SW03ES --Well the new toy I bought is here. I S&W model 500 (the larger gun). I could not pass it up. It makes my 44 look like a toy. http://home.comcast.net/~burnickas_guns/model500.html :whistles::whistles: I guess you have to like guns I guess. Wife thinks I am nuts. I told here the item was for her protection. She laughed and said from what, Big foot! But I do hope the toyos quiets down some. The wife needs tires this fall so I might try the Yoko's maybe if these do not quiet down. I will go check the air PSI now.

By noise I mean you hear the tire more now and before I did not. The alignment was perfect and they did not do anything since it was within spec. Soft is well, maybe yes, but still to soon to say for sure. I know my Dunlap’s with 22K miles started to spin in the rain. Trust me if they last only 40K miles I will be more then happy. Plus on the way home I had to buy a new toy, so the tires were not all the talk!

Well, FWIW I feel they have more road noise so far (only gone 25 miles) then the Dunlap 4000. The tread pattern looks better for performace and in the rain then the Dunlaps. Snow is still an "I do not know" until this winter in good old Massachusetts. They are supposed to last 60K miles vs half that for the crap Dunlaps. I had 22K miles on them and I can't beleive how the tread wear sucked big time! The TPT handle better but that could be because of the wider tire. Oh, the 205/60/R15 TPT are like $65 each installed, whosesale price. I almost went with the Yokohama AVID for $59 out the door but I needed to wait till latter in the day, so I said nope.

Well I got the Toyo Proxes TPT installed today. They were $129 retail but sometimes of sale for $109.95 plus balance, mounting & fee for old tires. I went throught my in-laws and got them for $305 installed! I also got 215/60-15 vs 205/65-15/ I know my Dunlap 4000 SUCKED! After 22,000 miles they had about 4 to 5K left. Junk tire!

Good point skperformance-- I personally figured after about 2,800 gallon of gas why not? It is very cheap to do it. Do you have to do it, no. I can't say it was really dirty or really clean since I did not have a "cut-open unused filter to compare it too. I know my motorcycle filter is very dirty (and I only use 93 min octane) and I need to clean it every 2 to 3 years. Very fine crap on the screen.

I changed mine at 62K miles and it was clean. I figured for $27 for an OEM filter why not.

I run 87 in my 98 without any issues. I have tried 89 and 93 at Mobil and nothing changes. No better MPG, no better running, nothing. My inlaws our a garage and also sell gas and they even stated just buy the cheaper stuff and maybe once per year put some injector cleaner in. So far after 35K mile I get from 23.5 to 25.2 in city with ac on and works fine. Now my GSX-R1100 is the opposite.

The housing comes straight off first. I had to use a screwdriver the first time..very easily now. The clips or plastic studs are on the edge of the housing closest to you/seat. Once you pry it up about 1", you will then slide the complete housing toward the front of the car. The hardest part for me was trying to connect the bulb to the power harness and then installing...It is hard since the harness is not that long. I just went out to look at 5:24pm EST and that is how mine is on my 98. I can take some pictures later if you need. My batteries are all died from my wedding yesterday.