mburnickas

I can take a few pics if you need?

A car with DRL on is much more visible to not only other drivers, but to pedestrians. What if your kid crossing the street was hit by a car that would otherwise have been visible sooner if it had DRL? What if YOU were the driver of the car that hit a kid when he/she started to cross the street because he/she did not see you in time? Would you still oppose them? There is a reason why Canada made them mandatory, and why GM has made them standard on USDM cars. If you oppose them, then I think YOU should not be driving. That's how I feel, but that's just my opinion! ← Do I think DRL are a waste no. Now that almost every car has one, it is the norm for pasenger cars. People say they are for safety and I agree. But on the flip side for the last 92 years they were no DRL and we were fine. As it is easier for people too see, how many kids really look when crossing? They think they own the road. You also still get the same things on the road with DRL or not. Also you do not see fed, state and local PD with DRL...hmmmm I do not have them on my 98 Es (thank god) and my bike has DRL since new (1994). I disconnected 2 out of 3 since I love driving at night and then one pops! I had that happen 3 times so far and that is enough. I think it should be UP to the driver/owner to decide it and not be mandated. Then the insurance people would whine, then the manufactures for some reason, then the church groups, then the NAACA, then the MADD, driving schools, …….. Again, you have to be politically correct now-a-days or people shoot you down, big time!

I mounted one ballest near the coolant tank and the other is mounted to the battery support bracket (one that bolts to the frame and to the top of the battery). It took about 35 minutes to install and I got them off http://www.projectimport.com/ but I do not think they sell them anymore You can still buy them at http://www.xenondepot.com/. I paid like $420 shipped back in 2002

i am 100 % sure they are not filled the same way because i was under ther and did it. I flushed through liters of atf till it came out clean. drove it around and then changed the diff fluid and it was still dirty and only a liter came out. and i was only able to put about a liter back in before it started to over flow. Any one have answers about the questions i posted up top? ← Maybe a 97 is not the same; But, on my 98 ES300 this process work as outlined from ClubLexus.com, this forum, my Lexus dealer (Herb Chambers) and myself. For my second time doing a tranny flush on my 98, thius worked just as I described. To prove this is correct drain the diff and the tranny. Then re-fill the atf THROUGH the dipstick. Then go back under car an open diff. Watch the new fluid go bye bye. I know this works since I did it to check my dealer. There are connected internally. If you drain just the diff you will get about 0.8 quarts out (or about 26 oz out). If you drain just the tranny you get about 3 qt out. Fill it back up and you get 3.8 and some change. If I drain just the tranny and NOT the diff the diff still holds old fluid. I never said they used the same fluid just that they are filled the same way or connected. This might help since it is almost 1-year old: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...ic=5245&hl=diff http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...On++1998++Es300 PS. Worry more about the smell then color. If the fluid does not smell sweet or smells burnt, have fun! My fluid smell goooooooooooood after 30K miles

That is what I have on my 98. http://home.comcast.net/~94gsxr1100/lexus/lexus.htm

Question: Why are you pumping the ATF fluid back into the Diff? I have a 98, same for 97 also, and the fluid is all filled the same way (throught the ATF dipstick); hence they are all connected. Great post and just trying to save ya some steps.

The "filter" is actually a washable and reusable fine mesh metal screen that's intended to trap non-magnetic wear particles But the screen almost never gets filled with wear particles unless the car is abused in some way like used for street racing or trailer towing. Therefore, the filter doesn't generally need any attention for at least 150,000 miles. Most of the wear particles are magnetic and these are trapped by the magnets Toyota installs in the bottom of the transmission oil pan. Here again the magnets don't generally need any attention for at least 150,000 miles unless the car is used for something abusive like street racing or trailer towing. American car makers don't use magnets in the transmission oil pan or a metal mesh filter screen. Instead, they use a big paper filter to catch the large amount of wear material that is generated from their planned early obsolesence transmissions. ← I agree about the metal filter since American cars use a felt paper, but so far I have never seen an American car NOT have a magnet in the tranny pan. I have only change fluids since 1986 but all have magnets so far.. Yup, you are correct it is a cleanable filter but for $24 for it and a gasket, my time is worth more. Good info though. Either way is correct but my OCD wins for me everytime!!!!! :) :)

It should be, however, the tranny and the diff may have separate drain plugs. On the 02, I could only find 1 plug and I got about 3.5 qts to drain. steviej ← on my 98 the drain for the diff is about 6" behind the front driver side wheel. I know it is a PAIN in the %$^ to loosen due to it being very close to the uni-body

Bad move man. I replace Brake fluid (1) per year..It is CHEAP and the old stuff is bad for ABS and lines over time.

yes it is the same I think I would drain the diff also. I would drop the pan and filter every other time put that is me. It is only $24 for a filter and rubber gasket.

I should say 6 wire ends & you will have not 6 wires. I don't care if they hook up to coils etc. You need to plug in (6) ends

I got OEM wires and Denco plugs

no the 98 has 6 plugs and 6-wires

Optima Yellow Top is the best battery. A lexus OEM batter is $100 I believe. ← Just wondering why use a yellow top? Unless you have a HUGE "kicker" and need the voltage, the red top is the way to go. I think the stock battery is around 500 to 600 CCA and the red top is 850 CCA.

I do not use M1 gear fluid so I will pass on that. But when Mobil came out they had different POA and esters. They could go longer but confused the heck out of people with their interval and the manual. Yes, they had seal leaks along with our oils since they did not have seal enlargers. Again that was a long time ago and all have been fixed. Also I do however commend Amsoil, Fleetguard and Redline for standing by extended drains. Mobil 1 is improved and is a lot better now then ever. Can you go longer with M1, yup. I have seen people that go 25 to 50% longer with M1 with zero problems. A synthetic oil is not even in the same ballpack as a dino oil. I would not put do not trust into engineers since we do screw up and most times $$$ are behind designs, not the design itself.

Again recommendations are just that, recommendations. Again most people will not justify the huge delta in price when comparing them together. Most people do not understand the different grades and groups of oil, additive package etc. Do you think a manufacture will say go XX miles in dino and 3X in synthetic, when most do not even know why they can? If you do some homework there is a HUGE difference in dino oils and synthetic. If you read up on it, you will know why you can go longer.

Again I would not say outstanding , but it does its' job for the interval given. As I have stated in the past, if a group 4 or 5 is used (with good PAO and esters), along with a good ZDDP you can go longer. If you have a good ZDDP that enables you TO go longer. All group 3 oil and below have a small to zero ZDDP so you can't go longer. After about 5K miles the TBN will be close to zero thus causing your NOX and OXD to go through the roof. So if you drain a group 4 or 5 soon, you are throwing money away. Either one is fine but I personally have better things to do then mess with used oil, used filters, etc every 1.5 months. My time is worth synthetic True, if you use a group 3 or below dino oil. Again for the last 25+ years with synthetics people have gone longer and have oil tests to prove oil is just fine. Hell I am one of those people. Also as I have stated in the past, most owners are clueless, so from a legality standpoint it only makes sense. All it takes is a few “morons” to screw it up and bam! Not saying they are here, but most people in this “class” of car, don’t know jack about cars, never mind oil, TBN levels, boron etc. Again they NEED to make them “dummy proof” it they have done it the best way to cover there behind. Again, a myth that was true about 10 to 15 years ago. There were seal compatibility issues but most have been corrected. I would like to stick to the original posts question so I have answered it in my last or 2 posts.

The manufacturer's recommendations are just that, recommendations #1 and #2 they again “fluff” the numbers since they want people to follow their recommendations during the warranty. If they follow their recommendations, they will be ok and not cost them $$$$. This fluff is integral to all designs. Next, you could be correct but most people do not do there oil, let alone know where to install it. They take it to a shop and the shop/dealer “pushes” the 3K drain for nothing but $$$$. Stop and go is not severe to cause them to use the severe. If it was, 100% of the cars, truck etc would use it since they all stop and go.There is more to severe then just stop and go. This interval is for poor oil that there TBN does not hold up (which is integral to the oils esters). Again I am playing devils advocate but putting on anything could be a problem, you never now. So far, I know Amsoil and M1 you can go back and forth with zero problems. Switching oil would note cause a breakdown all at one time, if at all. The owner would see effects long before a breakdown if they use common sense. it is called leaking and this would not cause a breakdown on the side of the road. Example 1: I put a belt on correctly and 80K miles down the road (on owner#3) breakes. Is it my fault, no. It is my problem, no. Example 2 : I could put a liquid gasket sealer on my water pump to "seal" which cause major problems down the road. Is it my fault, no. It is my problem, no. Example 3: I could put 36 PSI in a 35PSI and cause a blow out and the car over turns for the next buyer. Is it my fault, no. It is my problem, no. Again this debate is never-ending and pointless. I do not want to push this into another stupid oil debate but I have my oil tests and it state the oil is fine for over longer then normal drains, using a quality group 5 oil and I can see the numbers. Any to your “think that the manufacturer's recommendations should be the MINIMUM change interval”? Any numbers at the "MINIMUM change interval". I would be nice to compare and contrast. As I have stated on page 1: use a good oil with good PAO and esters and you are fine. Depends on the oil be used, use the manufacturer's recommendations for group 3 oils and you can go longer on grp 4 and 5. If you are doing short drains you could use oil with low to ZDDP and low PAO etc. Again, if you use these oils you WILL need to drain them soon since the TBN will be junk after 7,500.

Although you're getting a lot of 'this oil is better than that oil' stuff, the #1 overriding issue is to replace your oil regularly and use a good filter. If you do that and don't abuse your car, the engine should last far longer than you'll want to drive the car. My advice is to buy a good quality name brand oil and change it regularly per the manufacturer's recommendation or a bit more frequently. If you do that, 'which oil' is only going to provide a marginal advantage. HOWEVER, if you're in a very cold or very hot climate, the advantages of synthetic might be a bit more important. If you go with synthetic, you'll need to stick with it. That may not be an issue for you, but could be a problem for the next owner - if you feel any concerns about that. ← Change it per the car manufactures recommendations if you think there might be a problem or if that is "your bag". Again theses are recommendations and at the very least, very conservative since all designs have “fluff” in them (Ie, factor of safety, Service life, rounding up or down, K factors etc). Draining soon is doing nothing but wasting; unless, there was an internal problem, a junk filter, or poor oil. I would compare PAO and esters and go from there. Get what you feel is a good oil. You can switch from dino and synthetic without any problems. Anything you do could be a problem for the next owner. So I am not going to switch back and forth since it might cause problems down the road? So I am not going to install the best tires & brakes, tinted windows etc, custom this and that since it might be a problem? Do what you want to the car since it is yours and don’t worry about the 3 owners after. Enjoy it today, for you, and not for the guy down the road.

I have switched as early as 0.80 miles and as late as 82K miles and no problems. If it is leaking now, yes synthetic will clean the junk from dino out and leak more. Did synthetic casue the leak, nope. It is doing its' job, cleaning. If you are leaking now, you have bigger things to worry about other then oil. I nice 5w-30 or 10w-30 with a nice POA and esters and you will be fine.

Maybe I am price warry, but there is a lot of "inspects" in the list for $1,300. the price is average but Lexus is overpriced in my eyes. I would just have them to the timing belt and water pump (and belt tentioner if needed) and do the rest yourself. That is what I am doing next year at 90K. It will be around $250 for timing belt and another $200 for water pump. The plugs and wires I did for $90 with OEM wires and Denco plugs... Below is a list of parts you would need and there RETAIL price. The Fuel tank gasket is like $2.50 Air filter $8.00 for aftermarket or $16 for OEM Collant is like $15 for RO/DI water and proper EG collant Brake fluid i like $4 for DOT 4 ATF (synthetiuc) is like $36 + $24 for filter w/gasket Diff fluid (synthetic ATF) is done with ATF fluid chg, add $10 Air in Tires FREE Rotate tires is FREE and take about 10 minutes. So with the above parts that you can buy, you could save about $700 and takes about 3 hours..I am more "dealer hands off".. I have done eveything myself but having them to the pump, timing belt and normal belts.

tiresome is not the word. I good oil in Grp 3 thru Grp 5 will be fine for his application and temps. If temps are an issue look at the pour temp and minus 20 off of it. There is your pumping temp. I personaly would not use GTX and go with another oil like with a better ZDDP & moly. If you do switch to another oil I would keep an eye on oil consumption. Sometimes it changes. It is not really a quick answer. If you are doing an OCI, I would use the best bang for the dollar oil in those groups. The oil I would use for OCI drains and has almost the same analayis, but lower price, is Mobil Drive Clean High Mileage Syn Blend 10w-30. Just remember that anything API certified means limits on ZDDP, which sucks.

say what you want about it, my last car went almost 400K and would have gone further. never having a mechaincal issue in its life. i trust mobil 1 in all of my cars. JMO. ← "say what you want about it,??? I do not get it.... Never said it was a bad oil. Just for what you pay, there are better oil at the same price. People rave about it when so far there ZDDP and moly are lacking. If you like paying for a syntheitc and drains every few K miles, so be it. You could do the same thing on dino for half the price. Every since Mobil 1 stopped there extended drain interval, something has been up. It seems like they are using more ester and less PAO.

I have used Amsoil since 1994 and I know that there 5w30 TBN tends to drop quick then go back up. Also, all the info above is nice but I will take "real world" data over "stats". There are so good oils out there but I still like ZDDP. Lastly, I know that Castrol GTX additive package, is well, sucky. There Calcium is a joke VERY low (below 1700), there Zinc is around 800 and there PH is around 700ppm. Give me a break! My Amsoil is around 3000 Calcium, Zinc is around 1300 and Ph is around 1100, all PPM. It depends on a lot of "stuff" for a good oil. It has to be good in all areas. Just get a good basestock and additive package and you will be all set! Last Mobil 1 oil test I saw had there PH around 737 and Zn around 819 & Cal around 2600ppm. It is a high average oil at best. There oil is not at Amsoils level yet.

Don't mean to be an a$$, but more then likely your 98 will NOt have the filter. Mine did not have one and I asked another guy at work, and nope not there. What I do, is every 6-months I use my Alpine Air house Unit (has ozone) and turn it (ozone) on high and place the unit in the car for about 20 minutes. Kills all the mold, bacteria, etc....No smell in the car at all....works great.