mburnickas

Don't feel bad, I did the same thing when I was a kid to my fathers brand new truck with a cola can in the Massachusetts winter! Did the same thing when I had my truck that first winter with a can of beer! Nothing like cleaning beer off the headliner at 5:30 am...I can laugh now...

In my 98 I use amsoil and it works good for me. I bought the steel filter and gasket for $24 in a tranny service kit online. Change fluid every 30K miles and the filter every other drain. You could just clean the filter with brake clean or a nice solvent that does not lean a film.

I put new OEM wires and Densos plus (PK20TR11) in my 98. Easy to replace.

I have to agree with steviej. When you re-surface you remove material. Maybe lets say 0.020 to 0.030" and you get smooth surface again. BUT, now they are thinner and have a high percentage of re-warping due to it being thinner. It cost around $10 to $15 per rotor to do them. Also they could warp sooner. Could be 10K or 5K. I will just trash the old and put on some drilled/slotted rotors. It takes me about 45 to 60 minutes to remove and install new pads and rotors. That is also with Corona time added! I think you will need a 10 mm, 12 or 14mm. Also need to wheel socket, either 3/4 or 13/16...6-pt...Also need a clamp to push the pistions back in.

Sure, test the alt and then the battery. check the battery before and after running the car. Also I would load test the battery. My batteries always last a looooong time. GSXR1100 was 10 years, car was 7 to almost eight and tractor was 6 years (diesel)...jsut lucky I guess.

My Lexus Original battery only lasted till last week. Install date was 09-1997! Got a new Red top and Boy, what a battery!

Here is my view: if the wheel only vibrates why change the rear? If you feel your legs and !Removed! shakes then it is your rear brake. If only the steering wheel shakes it is only your front. The OEM parts, rotors I would say are like $70 for the both the pads are like $45. So I would say $370 to $400 is the parts price & that is RETAIL for parts. Try to find a friend in the parts business since wholesale would be about half that. Example: I had a front pass flat tire the other day and the retail price was $120 plus tax, balance etc at two tires place. Called my friend and his price was $49.87 mounted, balanced etc & out the door. Just call a few people it will save a lot and evey one gets their "cut" so they are still happy. I guess I need to get into the tire business. Lastly, I would do it yourself. Just remove tires and you will need a 10mm 6-pt socket, I think, (3/8 drive). It should take you MAX I hour to do all. That is putting lube on correct spots and some never-neize behind the rotor mating surface.

Just a Design Engineer at Hamilton Sundstrand was Hamilton Standard. Makes commercial & military engines, propellers ECS, submarine stuff, spacesuit, shuttle items, etc. Nothing fancy...it pays the bills for now before 90% is outsourced (like 20% of the USA right now).

All this reading of tires and at 6:15 am i got a flat going to work! Thanks guys! :D

Really the optima is not bad if it last the length it does. My suzuki motorcycle battery for my gsxr1100 was only $45. You think optima is bad. My r/c heli batteries are $200 @ 4 lbs for 7 minutes! And the one I just ordered was a meer $800 + tax and shipping for 19 minutes of flying @ again 2 lbs. That is Li-Poly and the amps will kill ya!

if the 99 is the same as my 98 it has a stainless steel filter and does not need to be replaced, it needs to be cleaned; however for $23 it is cleaner and easier to just replace. It is up to you is it worth the time and effort to clean with starting fluid or brake clean (+your time)? I replace mine everyother tranny fluid service.

My Red top (R34 or 800R same #) was #121.95 shipping to my door. My Lexus Dealer wanted $160 for their battery. Lexus Freak- The 35 battery is it the 35/75? Just make sure the poles are on the correct side.

http://www.optimabatteries.com/ Warrenty is free replacement for 3 years, after that it is pro-rated. I liked it since it is sealed, lighter in weight (38 LBS) and it just looks cool! I got mine of this guy on Ebay but he also has a website. Same price of both places. The killer was I called three local auto places and there were higher then his shipped price.

Well everyone. I have had wonderful luck with batteries. So my 1998 ES is going on 7.5 years with the original battery and I think it was time to replace it. So I bought a Optima R34 (or 800R) Red Top for my car. The R stands for reversed posts so it fix the ES perfect. All I can say is holly cow, the thing starts like on crack! I love the reverse red top! Good battery and worth the $122 shipped to my house within 4 days.

m2pc---yes, going only 7,500 is WAY to conservative for this oil. I would go at least 11 to 12,000 and then test it, not drain it. Then see what the tests look like. The ASL is prone to increase a little in viscosity (up to 40w). Just watch the OXD, Nirtates and TBN. Mine are pretty low compared to some cars/suv’s out there. Most are about 40 to 50 in the OXD and Nit’s. The results for wear metals were great in my used oil. Some of the best I have seen. You can't really go by the TBN since it can go up as I have seen in some other test results from my other cars. I would say the cut off for TBN is 2 to 1.5. After that, I would drain the oil. Some will say keep it in, but why I will say. The ASL is good but it is not as good as their high priced oils. The kicker is I do not know if the higher priced oil will have a added benefit. Yes, they will perform better but you would still need to drain the oil at the 1-year mark; even if the oil was great. So way pay the extra $$$$. The miles are 85% side roads since that is what I take to work in the AM and PM. It is 17.8 miles to work. Also go to college at night and that is another 12 miles side roads since the highway to Hartford CT is a total JOKE! Also the car gets used everyday except when I take the bike to work. So far I have only taken it 3 times this spring/summer. Can't have the coffee on the bike. The only highway is to Boston for my R/C heli parts or south to Hartford when I need to get there ASAP. So I will stay with the ASL for now unless their high priced oils come down in price.

based on your year, most likely any dex 3 fluid is fine; however, i would try to stay with the same brand. Most brand are ok with each other.

I will put the results in excel, then to PDF and then online for all to view. My webpage for this is: http://home.comcast.net/~94gsxr1100/lexus/oil/oil_sludge.htm I will have my thoughts on there also.

the results are finally in. Since I am a user of Amsoil for just about 10-years I am going to get an oil test of virgin Amsoil 5w30 oil. I can find any #'s online. I got my results back today for over 12,000 miles on 5w-30 oil change. The test came back to keep using it [the oil] but I want to go another 12,000 miles and test again on new oil. See how the tests results compared in the same car, same driver and same miles, with some small delta. I can't compare to a test with 3 or 5K miles since the trend will not be linear. Also with this many miles I persoanly feel that Amsoils 5w30 is not have a robust additive package as they say (but better then a lot of other oils). I only say this since my diesel had better results when tested; however, diesel oils have a major additive package to fight the junk that diesel put in oil. I might try there Series 3000 down the road to see how it compares to their normal 5w30. So far it held up pretty damn good even when I compared it to the Mobil 1 on this site. http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oil-life.html Bottom line, would I do this long again, yup. The Max for me I think would be around 18,000 miles per oil change, going by my data.

That is what happens when corp america works for "the man". You will lose That is why I just LOL when people say I need to do this & that for the warrenty. It is only as good as the paper it is written on. You could be 1-mile past the limit with a blowen engine and they would say nope, we can't help you. The kicker is it does not blow in a mile, it take time and miles. They will probably charge you for the paper and pen to write this on the form too, knowing Lexus.

What year Lexus since different years get different answers? Yes you can just add a mixed collant to it. So far EG coolant is fine in the ES. Now some people will say you need Lexus/Toyota coolant. If you are unsure use Toyoya/Lexus coolant until you read more up on this topic. Being a Lexus you must pay for every cap unscrewed, filled. That is the Lexus way. Great service but you pay for it...big time. Another MA person. Did you get it at Herb Chambers?

every 1500 miles! If I followed that logic I would have had to do my wifes every 1.5 weeks! over 100 miles one way to work! I think 3,000 miles was for the severe case last time I read the book.

Follow the manual and you will be fine. I follow what my oil tests shows. I have never followed the 3 or 5K and have had no problems. But, do what gives you a warm and fuzzy. So go 3K, 5K and some go longer.

Mine have worked fine for years, since 98. Just look in the buring software. The CD must be WMA or WAV. I use Roxio and like it. Wife uses Neo I think and it works fine also. Both work and you can find them online for zero if you find creative ways. I would gladly buy any CD when the prices are down to earth. Untill then, screwem. Plus the artist never sees more then a small %.

I use Amsoil 5w-30 (AME) with there SDF filters inmy es300. Been using it in all my toys since 94. Use their 20-50 oil in my gsx-r1100, 15-40 in my Kubota 22 hp tractor & wifes ML-420. Also have tripled the oil internals in the 1-year max time line on my cars, used it since day 1 (mile 00000) and have had no problem either. No seal BS etc. Is synthetic oil worth the price sure. I do not just go by price, go by what you get for your money. The added benefit is the time saved not doing oil changes every 3,000 to 5,000 miles; which has no proof to prevent anything. Now doing that is priceless. Plus I have more important things to do in life then oil changes.

I would use their Series 2000 gear fluid. It is a lot better then their regular gear fluid. Plus it is only like $1.40 more per qt.