mburnickas

bdonkersgoed - I have a GSX-R1100 and it is ok fast, not crazy. It seems that all the 1/4 bike are like around 10 seconds. Now the thing that separates the boys from the men is the top speed. My is only 172 :( Picture link is below: http://home.comcast.net/~mburnickas/Bike/gsxr.htm The problem with Harley’s is that they look sweet, speed sucks, always messing with them because the things never go longer then 2 weeks with have the tighten this, mod that. Etc The thing that kills me is that they all love the sound of the bikes. Try to ride more then 30 minutes riding in a pack. What a total pain in the !Removed! these bikes are. It is so annoying to here the damn loud pipes giving you a headache. …JUNK

$1,200 for only the timing belt????? My Lexus dealer is $375 for belt only change. I can get the complete 90,000 mile-service with belt for $900. thiink about it, the blet is like $40 retail. Then add on 4 hours for the guy to change it. So at 85 per hour that is $340 + 40 part=$380. You can check the water pump and that is xx fee. Or if you need one add another $300. I also asked two other leaxus dealer and the price was as low as $250 or as high as $495. Also get the belt tensioner replaced. Ypu, The ES are due at 90K miles. I would try to get in very soon. It will not hurt anything to go over a little but do not wait till 100K and say oh ya...A lot of it is how you drive.

no news yet. I just sent the sample bottle out Saturday 5-22-2204. I had a little over 12,000 miles on the oil. Still look good. Hope the honeymoon was great. I bet you can't belive it is all over already. Time really goes by fast. The wife is driving me nuts with mine. the cake, people, dinner. .....I do not want to sound bad, but give me a break. Woman go nuts over this and all I want to do it play with my toys!

I fill up today at 5:52 am. 247 miles and filled up 10.3026 gallons. That is 23.97 MPG going back and fourth with A/C on. That is fine with me. Either I have a good engine, all the fluids I installed helped or I am one granny driver! :P

my 98 is stock and have done the Denso plugs, Toyota wires, Toyota fuel filter, PVC, and 100% synthetic in all fluids but my brakes. Get 22.7 to 23.5 MPG going to work and city. Highway is up there (near 30 or over). I thought that was low! **Side note: My engine oil has been sampled and sent for analysis with some miles on it. Can't wait to get it back... With the gas prices going in the pockets of the manufactures I take the Gixxer to work as much as I can. Can beat the 0 to 60 in about 3 seconds and you can get on it and still get 35 MPG in the city. Or 55 to 60 MPG going steady. I am with steviej on this one.! :D Also I would not recommend an oil-glazed air filter on todays cars. Causes to much oil on some electrical sensors. I have had problems in the past and they all stopped when I got rid of the glazzed filters. I DO use one on my gsxr1100 but I have no sensors or emissions!

Lexusfreak congrads on the wedding and have fun on the "mooner". I have my ine 91 days; but who is counting. :D

not a pain. I wish they came back ASAP! :(

66zone- You can figure out the temps with basic heat transfer equations and the material properties. As much as your statement makes since, you can’t assume anything unless you know the properties of each unknown. Also you will need to know the boundary conditions of the system. There are a lot of variables that come into play. Based on my heat transfer background (limited to work & school only), when comparing a turbo to an oil filter; I would say it will be very close. The oil filter might be on the engine but the turbo is a larger mass and the "material" of the turbo is a factor. The internal energy, work, enthalpy’s, fluid, KE, PE...etc Lexus freak. No test results yet. The result stake about 3 to 4 weeks (turnaround time)

So far I have also tried some higher up Sylvania brand a few years ago in my gsxr and the light was the same as OEM bulbs. I think in the end you will not like regular bulbs but that is me. You might get a "whiter light" from some bulb but the amount of light will decrease. I thought my Lexus bulbs were very good until I compared to HID. For example, your light looks good alone; but switch one side to HID and then look. You will not go back.. Plus the warmup on HIDS is the best part! :D ***You really can't say one kit is the best since many people like 4,300K (most light output), 6000K (less light but best color look), and so on up the kelvin scale. I think Phillips or Hella Ballasts are the best. Also make sure you buy a correct and OEM bulb and not some fake bulbs or rebased. Here is a link from my Homepage: http://www.hidforum.com/

I tried PIAA and they sucked so I got the Phillips 6000K HIDS...Have a look...GOD I LOVE HIDS!!! :D http://home.comcast.net/~94gsxr1100/lexus/lexus.htm

I never said anything, just passed info from Lexus to everyone. Lexus states no diff (see chemical breakdown in %'s). Maybe coolants need Diversity training :D

Some lubes have a certain values it increases. I have a list at work, from Mark’s Standard Handbook for Engineers (Bible in engineering world), named many lubes with their respective base material. Like some are moly based, silicone, alum-oxide, etc. To sum it up, each lube lowers the coefficient of friction. So by lowering the friction it will increase the torque for that thread. As long as you do not yield the bolt/stud you are fine. Do not worry it will take a lot to cross-thread the bolt. You can figure it (cross-threading) out with some basic formula but no need to. The only formula I remember is: T=(K)(F)(D) T=torque (ft-lb, N-m whatever units you have) K=torque coefficient or nut factor (Lube chart) F=Nut load or clamp force D=nominal DIA of bolt (in, ft, m) I use anti-sneeze J (seize) on my lugs; however, you can use engine oil, chain lube etc. Anything is better then nothing. Just try to remember the torque formula in case you torque to max, which is perfectly fine, and add a certain lube. It will case the torque to go over you max. Just be aware.

Not that bad, not yet! Lets just say they keep alot of color toner at work!

66- If you use a better oil, you will get little to no coking on the turbo bearing due to the high temps. Good post, got me thinking. That is why I posted a huge info dump on my last post (about material etc) This was way I ran a good 100% synthetic oil in my 98 Ford Powerstroke Diesel (7.3 w turbo). Ford also came out with an "temp" computer since many people uneducated about turbo's cooked there turbo's! Did not use a good oil and the only way around it was to idle the engine to cool the turbo. Some engine uses fluids, coolant and oil, to cool down. Only had oil on the Ford. I would say no, the oil in a turbo will not cool faster then the Lexus oil filter due to the fact that 90% of turbo use the engine oil to cool. Also the turbo is a larger mass (heat sink) & volume and the materials on the turbo will hold more heat then an oil filter. In my wacked engineering brain.

just stating what the manual states. You can go from 0.0 PSI to the max on the tire as outlined in my book and be perfectly fine. The 26 nor 32 is not set in stone or on the tire. I go by what is molded on the tire. That way you get the PSI rated per the tire. Lexus does not know what tires I have on the car. Does Lexus make Goodyear, zitto, etc? The people that make the tires know best, not lexus. Even if I install max I bet 100 to 1 in 1 day it will drop some %. then not be at max. If you want to get technical, the manual states different PSI for difference loads. So now what does the sticker do? Again I could carless what people do, just stating what the manual states. Also what PSI would you do IF you installed your Michelin Pilot Sport A/S on yor ES the 26, 32 or 44? Big delta in PSI here. The wonderful sticker and parts of the manual are only valid for the size rims and tires as outlined in the sticker. After that, all bets are off. It goes back to my original post, put corvette rims and tires on the car (in theory). Do you still go by the sticker PSI (OEM tire & rim sizes)? No way. My poinst is the they sticker is only valid if you have OEM rims and tires. Outside of that, the sticker is worth zero.

Also make sure you put some lube on the threads. It will increase the torque by a small percent (3 to 8) but it will not harm the threads (cross threading etc). Lastly, try to install in the cross pattern. If there are 5 lugs: tighten lug at 2 (o'clock position) to 7, then to 12, then to 4 then to 10. If not, do not worry that much.

Here is my values for a Es300 (from my mellon). They should be around 76 ft-lbs +/- 3 ft-lbs. Or 103 N-m (joules) +/- 4 (joules)

Don't look at me. I am not the moron who wrote it, just posted what the article stated about the "experts" (as dumb as it seems). http://www.autonews.com/article.cms?articleId=38921

Lexusfreak--- Just add more fuel to the fire :D , My Lexus manual, "...Do not exceed the maximum cold tire pressure molded on the tire sidewall ". That about sums it up for me. You can go up to MAX psi and be good. So the sticker is nothing. If you went by the sticker you would be 9 PSI short. That is 26%, pretty large number. If you install your Michelin Pilot Sport A/S on your lexus you would be 38% off/less and for those loving the 26 psi number, it is even worse; try 49%. The door sticker method looks like it fails pretty good. Oh, I am looking at this topic from an enginnering standpoint since that is my job; Thinking "out of the box" with forces, loads, pressure, etc. I would again go by the tire but some people love stickers for some wachy reason. Maybe if you try real hard and scratch it, it will smell like rubber! :D

Below (List of suspects ) was from a link on my webpage: It seems that the oil is not a direct relation to it, other states the same. Even though Lexus says oil related. So the "list" blows the 3 to 5K-mile drain interval out the window kind off. If you knew the gas temp range in manifold, material of manifold & thk, distance to oil filter, oil temp, oil filter material & thk, & air temp in engine conpartment you could figure out if the manifold comes into play. Also need to know the flash and fire temp of the oil I would assume. Doing the above you would figure out heat rates, fluxes, work in needed, power if needed List of suspects Some possible causes of engine sludge, as cited by experts outside Toyota Faulty head gasket, allowing coolant to leak into oil system Unburned gasoline contaminating oil Inadequate oil circulation Infrequent changes of oil and filter Poor quality or nondetergent oil Oxides of nitrogen from emissions system contaminate oil Engine runs too cool in spots, causing condensation buildup inside crankcase Engine runs too hot in spots, causing oil to break down faster Seal on oil filler cap fails, allowing moisture to enter engine through valve cover Too many short trips or frequent driving under adverse conditions

Lexusfreak: Here is a question: You have a delta of 12 PSI between the tires on the car and the sticker on the car; that is a delta of 28% in PSI, big number here. This goes back to my original post. So if you go by the sticker you will be under inflated on the tire by 12 PSI max. Also, you could go up to the max PSI of 44 and be perfectly expectable for the tires. Also the rims do not care about the tires and vs versa. What will go first the tire or rims? The tire is what drives the PSI not the rims size. Again the sticker is only good for the tires and rims listed on the sticker. Outside of that, the sticker is, well, no good. Here is one for ya, My old truck (1-ton F-350 diesel ) was filled at 32 PSI per Ford, dumb move. Next the sticker on the truck’s door was for 80 psi in back in 65 in front. The tire wall was 65 max. So the sticker is wrong per the tire. It is causing an over inflation of 15 PSI or 19%.

No oil test kits yet. Should be here next week.

It is also good material when you "need some reading material"...

Here is some good info I put on my account. http://home.comcast.net/~94gsxr1100/coolant.pdf

Let me say this first since people think I am going "nuts" so I read. This is a debate on coolants and these are vaild points I am bringing up. Maybe Lexus changed "mid stream" they manuals but my 1998 (and I guess older) to not say anying about coolant issues. They, Lexus, have not sent letter etc that using other EG coolants will do anything. That being said, let gooooooooo :D KIDDING but why would toyota coolant be in a GSXr ? I would never use this coolant in my GSXR, not in my cars or anything. Again not enough data to PROVE it works better then other. Only thing people can say is that they have been using it. I can get more info (raw data) from other coolants that publicly display this data, proprietary info or not. That is the real proof to what the coolant is composed of. And even though you have repeated yourself a numerous amount of times and stated some very good points. It still comes down to money. NO ONE says the long life is bad so why switch other than say i tried something i belive to work and it does and saved a few cents. I see no need in that. I does not come down to money. I will repeat myself again it comes down to Lexus/Toyota proving and supplying the data to PROVE or show their product excels in these areas. All I see if people saying it works. All I see is that Lexus recommends, that means little to nothing. They can recommends all they want but they do not state you MUST use their coolant to stop any issues down the road. All I see print from Lexus in a 2003 manual is what monarch stated. They say to "avoid technical problems, Lexus recommends in a 2003 model....." If the problems are so severe why not state use only .......When Lexus leaves the door open in the field, they are only recommending, not vital that you use it. Also what defines a technical problems. I do not know what that is? A technical problems could be someing that is so small or something as major as an engine. Maybe a recommendation is good for some; but, not for me I need proof. So me the standards and/or specifications it passes. No on can say it works the best, only that it is equal to other EG coolants per Lexus for my model (as I posted). It also is easier for me to buy other equal coolants at truck dealer that are closer to my home. Price again is not the issue. That is only on of the “bullets” in the list. Why switch if it works? If that were the case, then we could still be driving model A car and rotary phones. They all worked just fine. To close, based on what Lexus sent me I have been using non-Lexus coolant for almost 40+K miles. It works just fine in my 1998. I am not making a global blanket statement for all years and models, but in a 1998 or older it is just fine.