mburnickas

Lets face if here Toysrme, you can NOT make a blanket statement like” I don't know why everyone on here is always quoting insanely high prices, but again, you're gettin ripped off.” Things in your area (Alabama) are going to be cheaper then Massachusetts, Washing DC, California etc etc. Saying that if you “quoted more than $500usd for a simple water pump & timing belt change needs to stop using Toyota / Lexus mechanics” is jsut incorrect. Is like saying if you pay over 2.10 a gallon for gas you are getting ripped off. Or saying if you pay $300K for a 2,500 sq/ft house is getting ripped. That would also be like me saying if I paid over $16K for my Kubota BX22 tractor I got ripped off. To bad different regions charge different rates based on many variables. I had mine done the cheapest I could find and I refuse to go to some “back yard mechanic” or do it myself. My time is worth more then XXX dollars. Do some searching and try and find the best bang for the dollar; but, on the flip side make sure you know what you are getting. For me the price was cheap since it was almost 7 years (1998 till now) and it cost $740. That is less then $106 per year! Can you say…CHEAP upkeep.

you are missing the complete point. Threaded holes are poor by design. I would not use them to pull something off since the stress in the threads, due to surface area will almost break. It is a fact here. you can use the correct thread etc but the threads are the weak link.

I figured someone on this board must have used it. ..I hope so!:) I am going to switch to Engine Ice coolant in my GSXR1100 and wondered if anyone every used it in an ES? It is an PG coolant, silicate-free, phosphate free, better cooling properties, conforms to heavy duty diesel and auto spec’s etc etc. Plus it is made (ready to do) with DI (de-ionizing)water; not the old distilled water. **Copied from there website** "meets all the requirements of ASTM D5216 (Propylene Glycol Base Engine Coolant), the corrosion prevention requirements of ASTM D 3306, ASTM D 4985, GM 1899, and GM 1825 including ASTM D 1384 (Glassware Corrosion), ASTM D 2570 (Simulated Service), ASTM D 2809 (Cavitations Erosion - Aluminum Pumps), & ASTM D 4340 (Hot Surface Aluminum Corrosion)." So anyone use it?

hmm, since I am enginner (mech) and have broken (stipped) MANY tapped holes. Again not many people used tapped holes since they suck. They make helicoil coil for a reason and they are 10X better. I know all about 3unc, 2unc, TPI, min and minor dia, pitch etc. Nevermind the lube w/torque factorts, torque at certain degrees. Again, they are poor by design and not used much; neither is steel.

this is true, although, i stripped the threads on my rotor using this method. the rotors were so rusted that the bolt ripped the threads right out after a few half turns, so i had to resort to the pounding of the hammer. ← I must agree anyone that use TAPPED holes to push something off is nuts. At least put some helicoil in the holes to add some additional strenth. It is only steel here folks.....cheap and poor material properties.

I use a ball hammer (rubber hammer with BB's inside). I then install Never-seize uon the rotor mating surf when re-installing.

You can do everything by the book and still have issues. Mine went out at 70K miles and the car is CPO... Case-in-point, things happen.

Well 98's have them since mine went out at 72K miles.

Welcome to the party. I have the same issue with both sides. This might help. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...topic=18685&hl=

valve covers, why? If they are not leaking leave it alone. Also why "hand clean" the intake? There is again no, need unless you are having performance issues.

I would also do cam and crank seals and tension pully. Also why do you need a fuel filter? They are lifetime filters. What about the tranny filter? Rotate tires and check brakes? How about lubing doors. Change PVC too since they are cheap. Flush PS and brake fluid?

Not stepping on toes here but Amsoil does not make AF filters anymore. They have not been for years. There are now TS-XXX per there 2005 dealer price list. Next is the oil filters. Retail for the Amsoil SDF57 (group 1 filter) is $10.10. Not bad I guess $10% off. I get them from a dealer for about 30% off. Do not forget they get commison credits EVEN if he sold it at dealer price.

I can find 87 from 2.13 to 2.21. not bad....diesel is over 2.69...I love it! How the tables have turned.... :D

Not a bad deal, but not a super deal. Only thing that makes it ok, is you also get the lube with it. But the bar is only a 3 oz bar. I like my Magic Clay blue at over 7 oz

Correct, when I replaced mine with my Optima I just lost the normal stuff. No code needed.

Thanks guys, one of these should work fine. As always appreciate the help. Have a great weekend. ← Yup, I got my Cabin filter back in March at Sparkplug.com....only place I could find it, cheaper..Notice I said cheaper not cheap.....:)

Back up for ya, since hot air sucks! If you have r12, checked for leak via vacuum and that are fine; My next would say a compressor but you should have an error message. Did you try the self test on the a/c?

Here's the other side of the coin: 1. http://www.rlb.50megs.com/oiladitives.html Consumer Reports attempted to reproduce the "no oil" test where all the oil was drained out of an engine which had been treated with ProLong, and then the engine was run. CR managed a maximum of 13 seconds running out of each of two engine before they seized up, welding the pistons to the barrels. 2. http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbibles/additives.html "The Car & Driver magazine engines treated with DuraLube lasted a staggering 11 seconds without oil." 3. I personally accidentally idled my 1986 Corolla engine for 10 seconds without oil (forgot to reinstall the oil pan drain plug before refilling the engine with new oil). The camshaft lobes and rocker arm pads were scratched and scored from that incident of running 10 seconds without oil. ← so you went double as long as the original poster with 2 less cylinders...That is a long time when using a smaller enginer and longer duration.

Now you tell me!!! I have 10K on the toyo's and based on performance this winter I will not be buying toyo's again..I will save this thread as a book marker! ..along with 10000 other LOC threads.

I would need to see the capacity and efficiency of the filter. But if you are only going 5K drains, you should be fine.

Keven, The Mobil 5000 clean oil is VERY close to the STOCK oil (Mobil Drive Clean.) that comes in Lexus cars. You are fine with that oil but I would not go over 6K drains with it or with an dino oil I feel. Here is some FYI for ya. http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS..._Clean_5000.asp http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS..._Clean_Oils.asp I also have seen some oil analysis of both oils and again the drive clean is better but both are dino oils (group 2 and group 3) You will be fine since it was only for a short interval. Your car idles at around 680 rpm’s. Take that in seconds and divide by 6 (per cyl). It does not come out to much (around 2 rev per cyl). You can get the same thing when you do an oil change and the oil psi has not gotten to all parts of the motor. Oh, saber Mobil is changing there names of some oils to keep up with the ever-changing fluids in todays market and diversify some. Nothing new here. I am not going to even comment of the other things you VGR/saber/ monarch states since it is hogwash. Plus not all Asian autos are exceptionally reliable and durable. I know plenty that have had issues (some major) right out the door. All cars have the issues. Are these cars good sure, but you can make them last on non-oem parts as people have done for years.

Well I just went through 18 pages for ya (using the search on cabin filter)… Well all I know is behind the glove box or by the pedal. So the pedal is out as you stated: http://web.ace.net.au/soarer/air_conditioner_filter.html Try this for the smell. www.ultrashield.com/odortreatment.htm

AKA "trucker bomb" :) serious here

Again, I agree 100%. The point I was trying to make is that what happens overseas does not matter to a hill of beans here in this country. Also tire pressures, from what I have found, vary by tire. The sticker on the car or in the book does not know what tire size is even on the car/truck. I also agree on the diff fluid drain; but the diff and the tranny fluid are all in the same system (not seperate). You even fill them both at the same place (through the dip stick) but drain seperate. So if you do not drain the diff, when you drain the tranny the fluid, 85% comes out (not all comes out). When you fill with new fluid it all mixes. Plus the amount it holds, is very small. My last diff change at 45K miles on it, it smelled and looked as the day I put in the ATF fluid.

I know....but we are not in Europe nor can we drive at 90 too.