mburnickas

I think there is a drain plug yes. B) ← Yup, there is a plug on most non-use cars.

Sorry, but that doesn't measure the filtration efficiency of the filter. Not to mention that it's nearly impossible to compare the test results (unless your driving is identical). ← All I am saying is that if you drive the same roads in the car (ie driving to work everyday) and nothing changes much, that you will see the delta from the filter. I personally could care careless about efficiency alone. I want the capacity also. They both need to be up there. Unless you drive on a dirt roads etc it will at least give an idea (close one at that) on what is going on with the filter. Anyone can post numbers from a manufacture but I at least know what results I had with both filters. You will see the higher ppm numbers with oil glazzed. They stick out pretty good. Nevermind the filter, cleaner and oil price. Example, for years (11+) I drove (and still do the same road(s) to work) and I used an oil glazzed for 24K miles (in my old F-350 diesel); then and went back to paper filter, the Si # went down... a lot with paper. Using oil glazzed was over 20 ppm in Si. Went to paper and it went down to 8 to 12ppm. That is pretty good delta since diesel use lots and lots more air then gasers. Maybe that is not very good test results but a 60% reduction in Si is good in my eyes. Less SI means less dirt and the filter is working here. But each to his own I guess. Have fun.

To see which allows more dirt to this; do an oil test. It will cost cout $70 but that is something to go by. Do an oil test with an K&N and do another with the paper air filter you like. Look at Si levels and wear numbers.

I have always done a drain and fill every 30 to 40K miles and never had a tranny fail yet. Been using Amsoil for 50K miles and so far so good. I like the color (always red) but the smell is important to me. I like a non-burnt smell. So far the smell is the same as new when I drain. I would just drain every 20K with a dino fluid and 30 to 40K with a synethic. I do it every 35 to 40K miles; depends on outside temps (to cold to mess with car). ← A drain & fill requires about 3.5 qt's.......is that about right mburn? B) ← Yes, I think I used 3.75 qts of ATF fluid for my last 2 drains (with diff).

I provided the links for FYI and am not getting involved. I do not use a K&N (or any oil glazzed) & never will based on past usage. This debate is like Ford vs Chevy, gas vs diesel, dino vs synthetic....

I would suggest that statements such as those above would require the presentation of some valid statistical data from a reliable and disinterested source. ← I agree with jragosta statements! ;) ← http://home.usadatanet.net/~jbplock/ISO5011/SPICER.htm http://www.bolhuijo.com/airflowtest/index.html

I have always done a drain and fill every 30 to 40K miles and never had a tranny fail yet. Been using Amsoil for 50K miles and so far so good. I like the color (always red) but the smell is important to me. I like a non-burnt smell. So far the smell is the same as new when I drain. I would just drain every 20K with a dino fluid and 30 to 40K with a synethic. I do it every 35 to 40K miles; depends on outside temps (to cold to mess with car).

Based on my old diesel truck and the sensors that failed due to oil-glazed filters, I would stay with OEM or paper. My truck had a BARO sensor go and an air temp sensor go due to these filters. Never mind the higher then normal Si levels in oil tests. Went back to paper and had zero issue (in all area). Stayed with paper since then. Now my bike is a different animal plus I had benchmarked the levels. No sensors either!

I just bought some new CR2016 (5 of them) for $5 shipped, brand new. The FOB is better then ever?

I know my scanner can test the ohms and it tells you if there are good or bad.

I had the same problem, time for new brakes ;) ← I use dot 4 in all and use a plastic syringe to get fluid out. I do this in the fall & spring on the bike; so the car gets done too.

Here is a dump on. I replaced my stock battery last year and when I did my pre-set did not get lost...that is weird. I also took the battery out last month and lost nothing that is weird......................

I disagree, why replace a perfectly good part with another one? If you can get it out of the tranny to clean it, surely you can clean it & re-install it? :whistles: ← It is cleanable, but for the $9 for the new gasket and $20 for a new filter/screen it is up to you.

98es: I have a 98 and the plugs where easy. Front 3 are a joke (5-minutes). The back three are easy. Just remove the PVC and you can get you arm in there with a swivel ½” drive spark plug socket. I also used a 3” extension. The sides in the back are very easy and the middle plug should take about 6 minutes to do. BACK- I went in from the driver side for that side and the pass side for that side. The middle one I went in on the driver side. It is easy, I would just try it. Save some $$$ for some of “the Goose”, grey goose that is! J

I have 6K on mine and the purrplish comes from turn on or when looking at a distance. For intensity, in terms on K, the 4,100 is the best from what I have read.

LOL - once again, some people have no clue. 1. Do you think Toyota owns refineries and makes their own fluid? 2. Do you think Toyota is trying to sell their own fluid to you and thus hires marketers to make you want to buy it? 3. ExxonMobil is the builder and blender of Toyota fluids. I know a Mobil representative who told me not in these exact words, but it comes down to: Me - "I heard Toyota oil and transmission fluid you get at the dealer is different than what you get at the aftermarket store even if it says it meets Toyota specifications" Him - "HA HA HA!!! Another urban legend! I can't come right out and say it to you but let me say this. You'll have to read between the lines. When we blend an oil or other fluid, ExxonMobil makes hundreds of thousands of gallons. And when Toyota needs fluid, we blend hundreds of thousands of gallons. Catch my drift?" He went into a little further detail and told me that when one manufacturer approaches them with new specifications for a new engine they have and they need an oil that can meet those specifications, they wind up raising the bar on the entire production run and not just for that manufacturer's needs. For instance - Porsche wants to go 30K on a Mobil 1 oil change. Do you think the Mobil 1 you get at the dealer is different than what you buy at autozone? This is one reason why Mobil is changing their oils - in order to provide Porsche and other highly demanding manufacturers what they need. I'm not making this up. This information was given to me after a company meeting while I was talking one-on-one with the rep. There's nothing special about Toyota oil or tranny fluid (well the Type IV is not compatible with standard DEXIII, true). ONE difference that DOES exist is with pre-H-spec Dexron III, SOME manufactures were not using high enough quality base stocks in order to meet GM's 50K transmission service maintenence recommendations. Earlier this year all tranny fluid switches to DEX-IIIH and cannot be called Dexron (a GM license) if it doesn't use the higher quality base stock. This fluid is available and has been for some time now. If you are doing a fluid change, make sure it says IIIH, then you know you are getting the highest quality non-synthetic you can get. Andy ← I do not know about the Porsche deal, but I have stated Toyota fluids where Mobil/Exxon for months now. Glad to see someone else knows that same thing. :)Toyota oil is mobil drive clean from what I know/here. I need someone else to take over the debates on oil. The cat is getting tired of it! J I know Mercon is getting a new spec and I think Dex3 is going to what you state know. Too much new stuff to grasp...:)

Yup, it is amzing the city I live in. I can buy 87 for $2.07 to $2.18. Then if I drive 8 miles down the road I can get 87 for $2.03, 89 for $2.13, 93 for $2.18. The place is PACKED at all times.

The dealer wanted $150 to change the plugs. But I thought, "good mileage, runs good, no money, naaah". I will have them changed this July before I head to Destin on vacation. B) ← $150 for plugs! WOW. You can buy then (Denso Iridium plugs) for like $11 each. But it will take about 25 minutes to install the plugs. Did mine at 60K miles. Very easy and did OEM wires and PVC. All for like $95

My normal Milage in my 98 is 24 to 25.1mpg (85% back roads at 45 MPH rest is in city). The WEIRD part is that after the Timing belt (along with seals and water pump) was done, I seem to be getting another .5 to 1.0 MPG more. Just filled up yesterday at $2.18 for super duper, and got 184 miles with 7.363 gallons; which is about 24.92 MPG. Plus had AC on all week. Highway is anwhere from 28 to 30 mpg.

That is weird. My Phillips 6K makes a small click at startup and the bulbs are always tight in my 1998.

Lets see I do 12K drain in my es. If you want my last oil test let me know. So I am going 4 times what you are. Also Toyota does not manufacture oil. It is normal Mobil oil that I was told from an oil rep and read online. It is NOTHING special here. It is also interesting that I heard that Lexus will be using all synthetic in their autos in the upcoming years. Toyota designs or engineers the parts, not the engine oil. Monarch - please keep on topic and please diversify your age discrimination. Weird that you bring up age, since my father is a retired state cop and he has been using synthetic longer then I have been alive. After my wife’s old car and the varnish on the dipstick, you can’t not give me dino oil for free to use. I would do a search since it is a powerful tool and this topic has been asked, well, a lot.

Wow, I know the bolts are 10mm since I can take 90% of the car apart with 10mm. 71 in-lbs is much higher then I know what is on there right now. That is the problem. Over time and vibs, botls do loose if not lock wired. Thanks Steve, I guess my OCD is killing me here.

I tighten last night and so far it is dry as my vodka glass! :) I figure in 8 years the pan has not be touched (checked/torqued). I lubed all the mounts etc today and it must be in my head since the car is quieter. no noise when turning etc.

Yes..I am no electrical enginner but it sounds like a relay opening/closing. It is normal.

Thanks. I think the torque specs are around 20 in-lbs. I am trying to find out if the oil pan has a gasket that seals. Or is the gasket a silicone as monarch states. I have a hard time believing that Lexus/Toyota uses a silicone on the oil pan. If they make a tranny gasket/seal I assume as good designers/engineers they have a formed gasket ready to go.