mburnickas

Toyota uses a Formed-In-Place-Gasket Sealer? wow now that is not what I expect form Toyota. They use a silicone gasket. I expect more then that from then. If they make a tranny gasket why not a oil pan gasket. Thanks but the seal design is NOT effected by extended drains or switching back and forth. If the seals are affected by switch backing and forth then you have a junk design period. I will/would tell any Toyota engineer that. I have designed seals on NASA units and jet engines and lets say you really can't NOT pick an "off the shelf seals that will have problems. Or select a material that will be ok with on oil then not another. 100% different fluids yes, engine oil no. Also if it WAS caused by switching I would have alot more troubles then an oil pan my friend. lets see, cam and crank seals, valve covers etc etc. All I am saying is that the oil pan alone has nothing to even do with extended drains. Why is it that every oil post I make you say the same thing. Oh my wifes last car was a toyota and had 200+ miles and never used synthetic. Do you want me to list all the seals I had replaced or the never ending leaks? Or the varnish issues with Toyota oil. Just pull the dipstick and the thing was yellow/gold and the oil was changed every 3K at at the dealer. The thing was caked with black oil and I refused to fix the endless leaking seals. To close, I did not say the seal were bad, I do not like having to tighten and then re-check the gasket. It is easier just to buy a new gasket since they are cheap. Also there is not one auto I have every owned that did not leak at some point. Most times is factory issues or old designed that need re-deignes. M ynew Kubota tractor had many leaks that were old designes that are now re-designed.

Well my 1998 oil pan is leaking a small amount. Now I went down to check the mounting bolts and wow, they are very loose. Unreal the lack of torque on the them. My bike pan has more torque on the bolts. So I tightened then up like 3/4-turn to see how that does. Since I am an OCD freak with my auto's, how hard is it to change the pan gasket? Anything special needed or is it the normal drain, drop, clean and reinstall (like a tranny interval)? Also I only found an auto store online that sells the oil pan gasket. Is there any OEM gaskets out there online? I looked for the normal part sites, from this forum, and got zero...

The 98 calls for Dexron III fluid right? ;) ← Yes sir.

I would not call 265K "265,000 miles car". No one is saying synthetic is the best in the world case closed here. I use synthetic for the added protection and benefits OVER dino old-dextron 3. Can dino do the job sure. So can an old 486 PC too or analog systems. Some people want more and so are fine with the old stand bye for the lack of a better term. If you are using dino the key is charging out soon since or not go very long. It subjected to higher then normal heat good bye. For me the 4 qts of Amsoil every 40K is cheap, very cheap and I know it performs better (as the shirts are seemless). Is it the best, no. I also know may that have gone longer with dino and that is them, not me. Samething with oils. You get what you pay for and the oil tests will and do show it.

you will be fine. I had phillips on my 98

I would do the following and I have done this on my own cars. Also I assume (I know bad) you mean a real synthetic and not a group 3 (hydrocracked dino oil)? 1. I do not use any cleaner additives or bottles. I let the oil do the cleaning. 2. I fill with oil and then drain at short interval (ei. 5K miles). I personally use the interval used in my manual as short but that is me. 3. Drain oil after the short one and then re-fill (with filter) and then go to where you want to be. For me that is around 12 to 15K in my ES. 4. That is it. Drive and had fun There is not special filter for synthetic unless you want to go longer on intervals. In this case, use what the oil manufacture tells you do use. I personally test my oils on all my autos since 1996 and well, the tests are a very nice feature on how the oil is doing; but the main reason is to prevent downtime. To see how the engine is doing, not the oil.

You are not going to find any since the fluid works!

Correct sunman B) monarch, let's ask the question then to other members......how many Lexus owners of any model have suffered transmission problems (severe or minor & please describe in detail) as a result of using Amsoil synthetic ATF? :whistles: Below, I have posted a link that gives what specs the Amsoil ATF meets (or exceeds). This matter should be put to bed rather quickly I would guess. B) ;) http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atf.aspx ← Been using Amsoil ATf since 1996. Now issues at all. Used in tranny and PS systems on the autos. I will say this, it shifts smoother and the fluids always smells sweet and red as the day it was put in.

I would not put to much faith in engineeers. Let alone auto ones! :D Using Amsoil in your ATF will be fine. Lets see Dexron III is dino based (1 and Amsoil ATF is synethetic. Here is the chemistry for an ATF such as Dexron III: (Average additive concentration by wt.% taken from seven (7) different additive packages) Phosphorous - 0.3% AW additive Zinc - 0.23% AW additive, anti-oxidant as ZDDP Nitrogen - 0.9% AW additive Boron - 0.16% Detergent and AW additive Calcium - 0.05% Detergent/Dispersant, tbn base chemistry Magnesium - 0.05% Detergent and base chemistry Sulfur - 0.55% FM and AW Barium - various% used as particlate control There is also no ZDP in ATF fluids or they should be really low on ZDDP; so TBN should be low (around 2). This DEX 3 is outdated and the new specis going to be DEX 3 H I think. Also the Mercon V is going to Mercon SP now.

It is more like personal preference. Example, I like Michelin Pilot Power for my GSXR but some like Dunlap 202 or Avon 45... Just do some homework and go from there.

Wow, that "total replacement" must mean a gold plated timing belt or something. I did mine at around 82K miles. Yes, I could have gone a little longer but I do not need the TB to break out in the middle of norwhere. It might never happen but for me the $399 is good to know where I stand. That being stated a non Lexus dealer should be cheaper. I had way to many issues with non-dealers so I stick them the dealers for main repair items. The rest I can do.

I do not know the ES that well or as good as Steve in this case. :) I just know what I do by asking and since I just got all this stuff done about 3 weeks ago. I really wanted to go to Herb Chambers since I like there staff etc, but when I saw the price (and the 1.5 hour drive) I said no way...and then called around. So my local Lexus dealer (15 minutes down the road) was cheaper with TB, WB, drive belts, cam& crank seals then HC wanted just for the TB and WP...weird. That is why I called Eric Scarpellini at Herb Chamber and boy, BONG.

I agree that Lexus of Norwood (herb chambers) is very good, but (in my eyes) they are not that good for the extra $234.XX for the same service that I got from another Lexus dealer. My guess is they sell the cars for less but make up for it with higher service prices.

You might have seen this on the other thread but: Herb Chambers (MA): (Water Pump & Timing Belt): $850.00 plus tax *(Price via email and called) Hoffman (CT); Timing Belt $500, and Water pump is $200: $700 *(Called and Emailed) Balise (MA): Timing belt $399.95, Water pump $212.50: $616.50 *(email and stated price voicemail) Hoffman and Blaise all state they check WP and to see if you need but the prices are listed. I had the cam and crank seals done for like an extra $60. I purchesed the car at Herb Chambers and thought they woudd give there past customers a brake, NOT ! They were the highest...Off the scale to be more like it! I would see what other shops you have around, if not, it might be worth it to take a 1.25 hour ride to save about $200+

The problem with Lexus is prices vary like the wind! I jsut had my 98 ES done: timing belt done, water pump replaced, drive belts done, cam seal replaced and crank seals replaced for approx: $740. So I think this dealership is close to what I found to the cheapest.

Which RP? There are 2 kinds and 1 is a dino and one is a group 4 (racing).

All my auto since 1991 got/get a oil change as soon as they get in driveway. It is up tp you. Do you want the rings to seat sooner or not. So far since driving I have never a manual state a special breakin oil was used. I got to a PAO oil that day. Never had a problem to date.

Now now....Mobil is a good oil but for the price you pay......I persoally do not use Mobil. I know Wlafart had there 15K oil for $24 I think. I HATE being there so I am not 100% sure on the price. I know there 5K is dino, 7.5K is a blend and 15K is a PAO. I have posted the blends.

Army- I use the tire foam then wipe off after approx 1-minute. It make a clean shine and works well..for me.

not a good idea since it if it gets on the thread and you take a corner, bye bye. Even the bottle states do not use on bike tires.

Just wondered since I need to get some stuff and want to make sure.

"newlexusparts.com" has free shipping ;) ← Are all the parts OEM?

← http://www.lexus-parts.com/partlist.asp?Su...D=41&ModelID=90

well I would stay away from Fram but that is me. I would select (not in this order). Mobil, Baldwin, Amsoil, puralator, Toyota, AC delco etc to name a few. As far as oil goes, what type are you looking for. You can get different groups of oil (hence the price delta).

This is what I get.