mburnickas

I have a canine cover. It was like $250 3 years ago, but VERY good. My dogs (2 pits and a rottie) all in the back on my ES300 at one time :) Biggest dog was my wifes rottie, 120lb. No issues and works great. Back seat look brand new! They make them custom for ya. Just need the sizes. I would buy another anyday. They are not cheap, but neither is your Lexus! http://www.caninecovers.com/

I guess I have to take your word on it but show me 100 cars and have over 50 look like yours; maybe then I will take 50% of face value. Then again why would I chance a $100 savings for water pump that could distroy my timing belt? Not worth the savings and chance. Then again I could show you a pix of my bike rad NOT using Toyota coolant & it looks the same way. That is going on 12 years old and only 4 drains and fills. No scales no nothing. I just changed the original hose then summer. Perfect inside; what does this say, Toyota coolant is not the only one that is good. Toyota coolant is nothing special here. Is Toyota good, yup. Are there others just as good, yup. there are also ones very bad too. Again you just need to look around for the others. I think we hit on this topic about 100 times since 2003 You do not need cleaners or adds in the rad any ways. You can flush it and call it a day. I have never used cleaners in my rad since I have been driving.

I almost forget. So now a picture of some fluid in a $.085 aluminum pan correlates to something? Also I did not know you owned a 1989 coronal with XXX miles. Nor does this pix mean anything since I do not know the history of the car, was it a new cap? New rad? When were these pix taken? Water pump not worn out yet??? Are you not that guy that does what Toyota states? If you did, you would not be on the original pump since they would have replaced it. Nevermine that if you followed the Toyota manual you would not be draining it every year. Then again you stated one value then something 200% more! Does Toyota know this? Also I asked Lexus, that MANUFACTURES of my car and they even stated you do not have to use there fluid and be 100% fine…So now “monarch” supersedes Lexus directives? But I do like photo chopped pixs. What they really mean I do not know; but next time take the pix with better resolution since it is low.

Following instructions, really? Show me some to follow with all the documented steps and process? It is called knowing a balance between all elements..:chairshot: From what I remember years ago taking a this boring class with will do zero in my life or job - PH is the a measure of the how action the H+ (hydrogen ions) that are in a fluid etc & it is measured in acidic or alk.. blah blah….. I could go on and on but why. This all started since the terms are measure with in TDS in todays world. Still waiting for your conductivity meter and not a TDS meter.. See I have asked you 2 times, that is called twice to take this offline since NO ONE CARES. Up in the corner there is a feature to take this OFFLINE. I would hope that a person at "your level" could understand this. Then again this makes time #3 to TAKE THIS OFFLINE. unreal...

Again it (degrees) proves nothing….. I have enough degrees in engineering that says I passed freshman chemistry. Do you need a copy of my degrees????? But then again, that proves ZERO! Again, go get a reef tank and then show me how much a PDH means. It only means something to the person that got it, no more, no less. Some of the smartest people working for NASA have no degrees. I see it everyday at work. So you have a PHD, and that means??????? LOL As I tell people at work, "When people bring their degress into it, they are full of it." I could say this and that about mine, but what does that mean??? ZERO! Please take it off line since it means nothing.

:) The bad part is with the front end loader on, the lights it less; but, more the stock. Plus no HIDS for the backhoe....You would think for the $$$ of it, it would have them (HIDS). *based on the loader etc, I need more light wider... Another light pix on the waywalk. All-in-all I still would like to know if my 1998 has HIDS base stock (reflector-based HIDS) or not. Just wondered.

thanks :D :D A few more I found on the old PC.

I finally found ome pix:6500K HIDs in my Kubota BX22 TBL. No loader or Backhoe installed this day. old lights old lights on left and HID on right HID lights HID lights on my front walkway

That is great you have a PHD...To bad I know people with PHD's that can put wipers on cars too. BONG Don't let a piece of paper "go to your head". When people starting bringing in degrees it is a last resort. I could careless what you have nor would I resort going to this level. You can take rules for this and that. I know what is "gospel" in the reef world. You can whine about TDS are this and that. In the end, you measure TDS in ppm, period. If you were right show me a conductivity meter and not a TDS meter. Show me where to buy a conductivity meter for testing my salt water????? It beter not have TDS on it anywhere. Higher PH in my world of water does mean low Ca and ALk. They are all again integral to eachother. Go get a reef tank and see how good your little piece of paper is; it will not pay for my thoudsands of dollars in coral either. To close, just because someone has a degree does not make them any smarter then anyone else. It means you can pass some tests, write some papers and talk to some people. Hell, I have been there and wasted my time. **If you want too, PM or email me since this topic is getting pretty old nor does 99.9999% of the people care about it nor who has what piece of paper either.

nice but a little old. Amsoil has stopped making there SDF filters. last time the page was updates was almost 6-years ago! Nevermind the page means nothing.. You need to know the efficiency & capacity of the filters. Without that, bong!

use gun scrubber ← Yeah, I switched. Someone had said carb cleaner was good, and cheap. After that experience, I went back to Gun Scrubber. ← Yup it works! I only use it on my S&W 500 on the cylinder along with my 44, The rest is the normal cleaner. You have to be careful with it since it cleans all the lubes off too.

TDS is integral to conductivity; I stated volts WAY back if you look. I am not confused since I have been doing reef tanks for years. TDS is mearing conductivity but no one cares about "conductivity" or ions blah blah. We need values and TDS are it and they work. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-04/...ature/index.php I know all about TDS, Ph etc. Not rocket science here. you can say this and that, but I know what I test for and real world apps I see every week when I test for it. To close if you have TDS in the water, it is not pure PERIOD! If you have CO2 in the water it will raise more then jsut your TDS. Oh, I left water out for over 15 hours with a fan on it. Tested it, and by the way you are a little off. My TDS were 000 ppm before and 000 ppm after.. :cries: And if you were in salt water reefs my post makes 100% perfect sence. Did the washing soda through you for a loop????? All these values you test for are all integral to eachother. Higher PH, means low Ca in water, low Mg, ALK, DHK etc. If you have TDS in the water you have more salts, minerals etc. If you have C02 in the water I have never seen tds raise (in my reef) but PH does. But as I am sure you know that PH is again integral to other values. Again, I see it every week but what do I know. I am making 5 gallons of Ro/DI water right now. But what do I know. I only have coral, fish, inverts depends on me....

watter wetter??? That stuff does nothing nevermind it freezes! It is like Engine ice. Overpriced and get nothing for it. If your anti-freeze sludges up, you have coolant that is dropping out. If you buy a good coolant this should not happen. I will also disagree since if you have high silicates etc, it will look like crap over time. Just look at dex-cool. Case closed. So it does matter what coolant you select and what it conforms too (requirments wise). Now Toyota long life is the same as other coolants if you look around. There are other EG coolants (prestone etc) that are crap since the silcates are through the roof. Not going to touch the 3 months or 3K miles on oil. That is just laughable here since I have never seen a need to do it and never have. Not picking on ya, but I have seen coolants and oil look like crap in a short time. I know people can use them without problems or very little issues. But who wants to drain there oil every 3 months or coolant flush every other year? Why not spend a little more $$ and get a better fluid and go much longer? Just my wacked-out thinking. Again, not starting a fight here... :P

Your information is not correct. Your meter is NOT measuring TDS as I pointed out. It measures conductivity. The only way to truly measure TDS is via a gravimetric method. Your meter measures conductivity - which it then translates to a TDS equivalent, based on an assumption that all the conductivity is caused by sodium bicarbonate (or something like that). If you take absolutely pure water and add CO2, the TDS is still zero, but the conductivity will increase. If you take your DI water and leave it exposed to the air for some period of time, CO2 will dissolve - and the TDS meter will show that you have TDS - which isn't true. In your case, you have it in a sealed jug. Obviously water in a sealed jug won't pick up CO2. Better yet, try an experiment. Take a sample of your RO/DI water and your TDS meter says it has 0 ppm. Now, blow into it with a straw for a while (obviously, you'll want to use a relatively small sample for this unless you want to be blowing for an hour). This will saturate it with CO2. Measure the 'TDS' again. I'm not saying that you can't get bad distilled water, but your test doesn't show that. You're simply measuring exposure of the distilled water to air, causing it to pick up CO2. ← I know that TDS conductivity, as I noted before. I weakly full Ro/DI water (5-gallons) and heat and air rate with a 1,000 gph pump. The ph goes up a little (which it should) and the TDS go up by about 2 or 3. Most times over 24 hours, it is from the plastic etc. Your notes or post is correct by no one use a little amount. I do all my water in 1 gallon, 5 gallon or 20 gallon. Also if you blow on it, your PH will go nuts. Again I can make Ro/DI and buy ANY distilled wter from the food store or walmart; as I have in the past. All are over 30 ppm of TDS right after opening. And you can use sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to raise PH but washing soda is better. :D You can also do the reverse. If you have high PH, if you blow air on it and it will lower; but other things change.

500 could be close or not. My point was that is 500 is still low and I would not run a 500 or 600 in my car or anything; maybe my bike :) Even my wife has over 800! :):):)

That is a little soon here.

I know what TDS is but TDS is integral to volts. That is a no brainer. C02 will dissolve but that is why you air rates the water. PH is also affected by C02. I am not going to go into detail with “aquariums” but again, I know what is better and why. Plus I can test my new RO/DI water (as making) and 1-month old water in sealed water jugs and you know what, both are 000 of TDS. PH is with 10%. Do you need DKH and ALK, Ca, nitrates, Phosphates, etc .

true, but that is why I have a TDS meter unit and mine is running 000 TDS of the RO nevermind the DI since it is zero in. The DI does have a shelf life and so does the RO. AS you stated a DI can be very poor, but so far in my short time of 12 years of doing a reef tank, distilled water has a lot of crap in it. That is me. My little 5-stage RO/DI works just fine for my reef so I know the TDS, ALK, PH etc of the water coming out. Do I want 35 ppm of TDS (junk) in distilled or 000 with RO/DI that I make? It is your call for yours but I know what I want. PLus the other things I test for show me what I have BEFORE I put in the chemicals. All the extra things WILL cause reactions in the chemicals in the coolant. To close a RO/DI will perform better unless your "house keeping" skill are lacking.

good link but I must say I would take deionized water and currently use DI waster over distilled water in a heart beat. Distilled can still have metals, salts etc (TDS) in them. If this was not true I would be using this water for my reef tank and no need a RO/DI filter.

I would check the battery. The cca does not mean jack if the battery volts is below par. I do not know what the original battery had (around 500 seems about right), but my new one (optima) is around 850! My tractor is about 1,000. You could have a bad cell from the start so please double check it. 1500 is not gonna happen in one battery. You could need 2 for that cca unless you have a train (locamotive)battery.

Again it depends what region you live in. I live in the N.E. and I paid less then what cynthiaes300 stated at my lexus dealer for the same work done + my drive belts. I am even willing to bet people down south will be even less.

The real question is 'will Lexus learn how to make a car that shifts properly by then?" ← my year es shifts just fine! :D

my dad was a state cop and has many degrees. Made some nice $$$ because of OT. base pay was not that great for what you do or what you have to deal with. Me, I have a BSME and some other degrees, been doing ME for like 12 years. School is great but you are lucky to use maybe 40% of it. All the calculus , eng math, discrete math blah blah....you never use it! Waste of time, big time. I wonder if the professors know this since I am paying almost $400 per credit for crap I will never use. I think Education is important but just becuase you have degrees means jack $%*#. You are looking at two different fields. I was going to become a state LEO and then looked at the pay. I would be taking a nice pay CUT, weird hours etc. So I am still a Mech Eng. Oh, I do not work OT and will not work OT. Not worth my time. I get paid for 40 and do not work more. I am home for the holidays work normal hours and I will be becoming home everyday. Now if you like LEO work, that is great. I know my dad loved it but retired and still makes more $$ then me! :D

Did you check the volts on the battery? Did you check the volts with car running and then again with everything elec on? Your battery could be working but not 100% too. Not being a pain, but take the 5 minutes and check it with a volt meter. ← Yeah, that's true. One day a few months ago, my car wouldn't start but after jumping it the battery was okay for a day or so before I brought it in to be tested. My car was doing the same thing you say yours is doing... it didn't sputter or have low RPMs. When I brought it in the guy said my CCU (cold cranking units) were supposed to be around 500 or something and they were only at 250. So, maybe you received a defective battery that is just barely working? It's possible. ← 500 cca? Wow, my tractor has more!!!!! :D I would check the volts since you can't check cca. So what volts you have just sitting there. I hope it is between 13.8v to like 14.2 or 14.4v.

Monarch, this is the problem years for the EGR, throttle body, Ivac etc on es300. This topic has been covered many times. It is a PROBLEM with Lexus my friend. Seems they skipped there design-to-cost classes on this parts/sys.... :D :D :D And a TSB is just that, they do not HAVE to fix anything unless it is a recall. TSB = there is an issue (but not safety), but you the customers needs to pay for it. metaspace I know my EGR went out and it was a CPO lexus. Lexus is a good car, but far from perfect. I would just take some throttle body cleaner and shot it in there after removing it from the car.