Toysrme

monarch, I normally just chuckle at your stuff, but at this point. You've crossed the line of getting laughed & sending a few chuckles back and forth, to flat out ignorance. The 3vz-e is the weakest !Removed! POS from Toyota in the past 20 years. No engine more fundamentally problematic, no engine more under whelming. I can't equate into words how ludicrous saying the 3vz-e is not "fragile" and that it can "reliably" power anything. Three letters in a year and a half!? Hell nothing else had that many letters in so little time... Get to enjoy such benefits as: 1) DID NOT Fix the problem of them blowing out in the first place because the replacement gasket is weaker than the original '87-89 gasket 2) A - DOES NOT Stop the #6 exhaust valve from burning up B - DID NOT Stop the associated superheating of the head gasket between the #4 & #6 exhaust cylinders 3) DID NOT Completely fix the external oil weeping problem until the last version of the head gasket 4) DID NOT Fix the fact that the heads have problems with large hot-spots 5) DOES NOT Fix the fact that the head bolts used on the 3vz-e are prone to stretching, and require re-torquing at 60,000 miles 6) DOES NOT Fix the connecting rod bolt problem 7) DOES NOT Fix the 3vz-e's weak crankshaft Son you have really show yourself on this one. While normally you're content to beating your little wings in the grey areas. You're flying in the flat out ignorance zone at this point. WTF... No That's your "Typical" cooling system after the moron owner<s> have not flushed the fluid out on schedule... Toyota red does the same thing, it simply takes an extra year to do it. *edit* In conclusion. You really need to stay in the grey areas. Just stick to saying that Toyota anything is the greatest anything of all time & quit trying to form... Flat out pitiful mechanical opinions. Becuase I gotta tell ya. Based off the above, it's something you're *really* not good at. *Edit #2* And OH MY GOD. Dude you are *the* most hypocritical person on this forum. As many times as I have heard you blabber on & on about everything from additives, to coolants. You: Advocate cleaning the throttle body & idle valves of carbon build-up. (And I've brought this up once before) & Now you freely admit that you change HALF your coolant every year, or two. Yet claim "Toyota Red" is good for the 5 years, 50,000 miles Toyota specifies. How would you know?

The '94 Camry manual is going to be the closest. The electrical wiring from the 92-93 manual will be closer, NOT including anything related to the engine, or transmission.

A useless, and ignorant story. After the banning of asbestos, all Toyota head gaskets to became prone to either external weaping of fluids, or blowing out completely. The truck v6's bear the brunt of it. Those sons of !Removed! blow out left & right because the GASKETS suck. Not because they overheat... Toyota only warrants the NEW style gaskets. (That they tried SEVERAL times and COULD NOT fix) for a few years. The v6's in particular you are referencing also has poor cooling in the cylinder heads to begin with. A lot of large hotspots are in those heads. It is not uncommon for them to burn out the exhaust valves during the process of day to day driving... So in short. You can *BLEEP* on a truck v6 and have the gasket blow. Saying anything on one contributes to the blowing of their gaskets is simply un-provab because the problems with them are so large. If you want to prove Evan's iss bad stuff, you're going to have to go beyond the old truck engines to do so.

Awwww ok steve. I laughed my !Removed! off at that. Tho the responce has noting to do with what I said.

retdep nobody can help you if you don't fill out information about your car GS3is4me that aslso doesn't mean much as you've given nothing about the symthetom, problem & resolution Anyways... It's most likely a coolant sensor problem. Check them both. Otherwise research cleaning the IAC & throttle plate.

You also, are likely to just have some nagging minor problems. Mis-aligned cams, or timing belt, vacuum leaks from split/unconnected hoses, minor electrical problem like bad plugs, broken/unconnecting wiring.

I've seen the Evans coolant come up, but have never given it much thought. I don't like how they toute that engines will make more power using it tho. More power how??? Less pumping loss through the water pump!? It's certianly not by temperature. Every engine operates differently at a different temperature. In general the *higher* the temperature the more effecient it will be (along with the fewer emessions). How are they going to know if engines are under, at, or above the "point of diminishing returns" of engines? It certainly doesn't help engine output to lower the operating temperature of most engines. Besides... An engine using a thermostat will run at roughly the same temperature regardless of anything else, provided that the system is up to cooling. Engine temperatures on road cars is regulated to a minimum temp. For claiming that, Evan's has never been on my good list. http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultima...c;f=37;t=000380 Is the only thing I have seen with people actually talking about it without all the hype, or BS.

All anti-freeze works. My primary concern has always been that when someone is ditching Toyota red for something else that you don't experiance the gelling, and fast inhibitor breakdown. From new coolant mixing with old coolant left in the system. It doesn't matter what antifreeze someone uses, provided whatever was in there before hand was flushed out & the coolant itself is changed on a regular basis. I use Super-Tech from wallmart + water wetter.

Looks there's only one way to do this... Take a bucket & mix the coolants. Let that sit a week & see what happens <cough> hard gel <cough>. Then take another bucket & drop a hunk of copper and a hunk of aluminum in that. Take pics of both after a day, after a week, a month, and then 6 months later. I've seen what happens, so one of yall do it to be impartial. What coolant is best? Best at what? Cooling? Keeping things from sludging? At not blowing out the water pump? They all have strong & weak points. The weak point being that they all suck at cooling. After that it's just which one won't turn into a disgusting, gelled up, metal eating mess.

Flush it. Don't mix "red stuff" with anything. Begging for trouble once it gels up.

I love water wetter. ID how it works, but the inhibitor package is supreme & it does get coolant to transfer more heat. I've been using it with just water in this water cooled PC since 2001, along with my cars. Copper water block, aluminum Ford heater core, no antifreeze. Just water+WW. I tore this system apart a few months ago to dissasemble the water block & clean the pump out. Neither showed any signs of corrosion from having used an aluminum radiator. (Try that with straight water, or water/antifreeze & use the yearly flush interval I use and you'll have it everywhere.) (Measured by my compunurse) The introduction of the correct amount of WW drops straight water coolant temp 2C after the heatercore and CPU die temp 1C. You wouldn't catch me not using it... *Especially* in Today's Aluminum block engines that have mixed copper components in them. Aluminum + Copper = a huge problem. Wasn't such a big deal 20 year ago when no engine had iron parts... Iron + Copper, or Iron + Aluminum. Now you get everything, Iron + Aluminum + Copper. monarch, next time you want to think that old, and middle aged people have the last word on everything. How about you realize, with you *abundance* of knowledge, and "life experiance". That your !Removed! hasn't been around mixed cooling systems in engines any longer than anyone else's has.

That's exactly the problem. Castor oil is virtually no better than those oils in a 2 stroke bike. It ceased that long ago withe the introduction of oils made for two cycles. It is horrible. The lowest form of liquid lubrication. I honestly think that if you pumped AstroGlide through an engine fast enough so it didn't steam, it would be better. See my pother post as to why castor oil sucks. The difference here isn't a "why synthetic should be standard and dino go to hell". It IS fact by anyone that has ever monitored, or taken apart an engine that's been run on castor oil that synthetic is vastly superior.

From Brian Whinch. A man with decades of experiance as a professional engine reviewer, rebuilder, servicing, and engineering. In both model, and car engines. From a rescent R/C Report article. THE GREAT CASTOR OIL CONSPIRACY Some years back, in my professional capacity, I investifated an animal cruelty report wherein a sheep was tethered on a chain attached to a stake in the ground, with no food or water avalible. In the circle within the limits of the chain's length, the ground was almost barren... A virtual desert landscape due to the sheep having eaten almost every plant, every blade of dried grass, leaf, and even twing to survive. On the edge of the circle, however, well within the reach of the sheep, one plant still stood. It was about 5' high and lush with large, fleshy leaves. Not one leaf, however, bore witness to the sheep even tasking it. The plant was a specie of euphorvia from India, with the Latin name, Ricinus communis, the deadly castor bean plant. This is the same plant from which castor oil is extracted when the seeds are crushed. An oil that contains acid that will attack metal, sugars will provide harsh carbon when burned, and natural gum that can stick metal together with a bond as strong as solder. This same oil was fed to humans with dire results. We barfed and pooped at great speed, often at the same time! Since the dawn of time, when some retarded cave dweller crushed a castor seed on a rock with the skull bone of a pterosaurus, tasted the foul liquid that driopped on the rock, and noted it's incredibly awful effects, all his descendants have been trying to find a use for the poisonous goop. One way or another, you will use castor oil. It's all a part of the great "Castor Oil Conspiracy". As a kid I was fed the stuff if I looked sick, if I wasn't radiant, felt down in the dumps, and when I misbehaved. A large spoonful was mixed in orange juice, with a little baking soda to make it fizz. Man it was awful! (My wife Shirley, almost my age, still can't stand orange juice due to the memory of the castor that was put in it when she was a young'n.) You generally barfed it back and forth a few times to the tune of, "Swallow it! Swallow it! If you bring it up again, you'll get another dose!" So you swallowed it, and then a few hours later you wasted a lot of time in the throne room painting the procelain. When you got older, and past the castor dose stage, you got around to kissing some nice girl if you were lucky, and you got another does because castor is used in lipstick! You asked the girl to the Saturday dance, so Saturday afternoon you scrubbed yourself clean as a new penny and copped some more &#33;Removed&#33; castor, as it's also used in soap. You really like the girl, so after a respectable time has passed, you proposed marriage. She accepts, you put down a deposite on a cute little bungalow, and you proceed to make it nice and paint it pretty. Yes, you did it again, because castor is used in paint and varnish! If, a few years later, she finds out about your affairs with other women, she might do you in with ricin, a toxic protein used as a chemical reagent. The &#33;Removed&#33; stuff will get you in the end. Oh ya forgot to mention, ricin is extrated from castor beans! GETTING SERIOUS NOW Okay , by now you might have come to the conclusion that I don't like castor oil. Why, whatever gave you that idea? I just don't like ingesting it, and don't like using it in my fuel. I'm sure you've seen the instructions for a new engine, and you may have read that castor should be part of the oil content, or now in rare cases, the only oil content. You might have also read that the use of castor is not advised in a particular engine, such as a Saito, for example. So who is correct? First let's explore why some dealers and egine manufacturers recommened castor oil. According to information passed to me, it's a matter of semantics. What's meant by the instructions is to use synthetic oil! DOes this require a knowledge or understanding by the product? THe answer is definitely "Yes"! Here's the problem. DO you fully understand what is meant by synthetic oil and it's compatibility in fuels? I use a fully synthetic oil in my bedford van (My road vehicle). Could I use the same oil in my glow engine fuel? What about a sump full of Klotz in my BMW motorcycle? DO you think there is a great variety of synthetic oils in all places around the world? Not a chance, mate. Let's try some horses for courses. You visit your doctor (who is a super MD, but engineering challanges, so he knows nothing about engines). In a casual conversation you mention, "I have a double overhead cam with 20* of overlap" (your latest, super hot 4C<4 Cycle> engine). He smiles and replies, "Take two asprin and see me in the morning." On another visit the doctor says to you, "Do you have carpal tunnel syndrome?" You say, "I'm not sure. Is that a BIY <Build It Yourself> kit or an ARF <Almost Ready-to-Fly> kit?" Another type of confusion is like the problem at the model club party, when the band leader noticed the drummer had his trouser fly open. He went over to the drummer and whispered, "Do you know your fly is open?" "Not offhand", said the drummer, "but if you hum a few bars of it, I'll pick up the beat." It's a problem of understanding the topic at hand. Right then. Now that we understand the problem, let's apply it to lubricating oil. The manufacturer of the Bloorinse range of 3-stroke engines has, in their instructions, the warnings that these engines will only run on fuel which contains synthetic oil. A modeler in Blertville, Lower Slobbovia, buys their engine and reads the instructions. Now, Lower Slobbovia is a rather remote principality under the rule of His Royal Encumberance, Prince Floggadog, and he owns the only chemical processing plant in the area. THe synthetic oil produced by El Prinso is sort of refined from the renderings of the fat removed from dead rats and yaks that died from obesity. It will not, however, mix with methanol (or anything else for that matter). The poor old Slobbovian modeler cannot run his engine as there is no such thing as synthetic oil that will mix with methanol in his country. On the other hand, had the isntructions laid down that castor oil must be used, there would be no problem. Everybody in the world (well, almost everybody) knows what castor oil is, and you can always get it from the chemist or stea.. er.. 'borow' it from the local hospital. The engine owner would be happy because he can now run his engine on a fuel that has an easily obtained oil. It doesn't matter at the time he'll later have to send the engine to me (or some other repairer) to have the hard black carbon removed, the liner deglazed, and the baerings replaced due to gum deposites. He's happy anyways, because for the moment atleast, he can run his engine. Seriously now, I really cannot believe that modern day engineers would recommend castor for a lubricant in light of the magnificent advances with synthetic oils. We have industry running on ultra modern CNC machines that will (almost) instantly replicate any shape or form with incredible accuracy. We now have metallurgy so advanced we can have aluminum allow pistons running in nickel plated liners at speeds exceeding 40,000rpm. Yet there are still those among us who cling to a corrosive oil that we used for cast iron pistons in steel liners machined on turret lathes. You have got to be kidding! Wait... hold on. Someone picked up on my "corrosive oil" statement. Yes, castor is corrosive. My son collects buried treasure, old artefacts he digs up in rivers and early settler home sites. TO clean most of the metal items, I soak them in molasses (Dark syrup produced during the refining of sugar cane juice) or medicinal castor oil. Both are acidic and work slowly at etching away the corroded surface down to the base metal. If I love the item soaking for too long, it too will be eaten. A final example closer to home is a ball bearing. Get a new bearing clean it in alcohol or petrol. THe note the surface finish on the balls and the two inner races (The grooves). They look almost like they're chrome plated. Run with the correct lubrication, this surface finish will endure until the balls rattle out of the cage from wear. RUn an engine on castor, though, and leave it for a few months until it's gummed up tight. When you eventually strip it down, carry out the same proceedure with the bearing. You will see a grey patina on the balls and races, and a very close examination with a microscope will show a rough surface. While the bearings are in this clean state, stick them on a wood handle as I described in my first colum, and listen to them rattle. Nuff said. If you still feel a strange urge to use castor oil in your fuel, use one that has been de-gummed, has had the sugar removed, and has a very low acidity. I used some Bakers AAA castor once, that come from your island <North America>, and it was pretty good compared to other goops avalible. One that I have tested at the company's request is from VP Performance Products, and it's really good (as castors go) due to being super refined in many ways, to the point that it's probably now just a distance reltation to the crud we once had to ingest. In WWI the brake pilots of those stick and rag aircraft did two things other than their flying chores. One was to wear a flapping silk scarf, and the other was to run away from the aircraft, evena fter a successful landing. The silk scarf had nothing to do with a badge of brotherhood ("I wear it because all the fliers wear them"). It was to dissipate the constant buildup of static electricity in the wood and canvas frames. The running away bit was not to escape from the aircraft in the event that it would blow up, it was due to the total loss oil systems used in the engines. Castor oil was a prime lubrication, and it constantly sprayed in the face of the pilot who, obviously ingested a goodly amount during a long flight. On landing the best place to be was the little library room to let the castor do its dastardly work. An old and common saying here is having a dose of the runs, and it always applied after some fool of an adult forced a generous serve of castor down your throat. HOW MUCH LUBRICATION? If I had a cent for every time that question is asked, I'd have my chauffer drive my Mercedes limo over a bump to shake the ash of my imported Cuban cigars, while my team of female secretaries recorded my dicated material for the next "R/C REPORT" colum. How muchd do you need? <Long explaination not pertinant to car engines> About 30 odd years back, I conducted a series of tests with a synthetic oil over a period of around 12 months. The fuel containing the oil was used in a range of temperatures, humidity, and oil ratios, in a range of engine types and sizes. Pieces of metal often used in the manufacturing of model engines were soaked in the oil, covered in the oil, then drained, dipped in the standard type of fuel mix, and left to dry. Two engines were run on the fuel, and the one was left to sit for six months, while the other was started and run once every week, but left just as it was when it stopped. I was looking for gumming, corrosion, glazing, carbon, and any other factor deleterious to the running and life of the engine. The engines remained identicle in both wear rate and showed no signs of rust or gum deposites. <Lotta speak about oil-fuel ratios> About two years back, a father son team, who are close mates, lashed out for the latest, biggest YS to be used for powering apattern model. Long discussions ensued, and compression ratios checked with a result that the fuel would be 30% nitro and 25% Cool Power synthetic oil. That engine never misses a beat. After using 200 liters (44 gallons) of fuel, and contributes a good amount of it's reliability to the fact that the son is in the top ten pattern fliers in Australian (he's coming to your nationals next year, so be warned!). As a service check, the engine was dissembled last month, and honestly, you'd be hard pressed to suspect that it had run more than a few hours. All that was to be found was a slight dark yellow stain on the piston crown. <common place to any non water injected internal combustion engine> The rest of the engine was so good that it was reassembled and used that very afternoon. <Leet engine speak, his personbal preffernces in fuels bends.> On a few occasions I have been asked by engine companies to test an engine to the point of destruction. What happens if it's run at full speed right out of the box, buy without being stupid (running super lean, super rich, or ridiculously small props). I've never been able to destroy an engine this way on synthetic oil, and believe me, my tachometer has recorded some super high RPM. I've seen over 40,000 for a 2C, and 21,000 for a 4C. Now that's really cranking along!

Caster oil sucks at everything. Dino kicks caster's !Removed!. I'm transposing an article... I'll post it in a bit.

Vacuum leak.

Trace the exact location with your ear. That will tell you. http://lextreme.com/v6/viewtopic.php?t=16&...f5ea044967f37c2 Go watch that video. If yours makes a ticking sound like that, then you need to check the lifter buckets for slap & the valve clearance.

Hell no. Call the cops. The *BLEEP*er has no license & no insurance. You're !Removed! up bigtime. Take all those !Removed! off the road.

Like I've said before... I did re-based bulbs, and wound up spending loads of time trying to make them right.

On the starter

Stock HID's for car use are 35w. Tho there are a handful of 55watt kits out there. HID's are lower power than stock bulbs, and because the ballasts smoothe out a rough power supply, they don't dim with big audio equipment. mdscorp I'm not insulting you... I'm telling you: 1) What needs to be done 2) That anyone that doesn't do what needs to be done IS an idiot If I were insulting you, I would have called you dumb. I didn't say that. So you're not insulted... (re-read)

Several cups. Just take a piece woth something shoved in the end & put that on each line. You can also bypass it forever & put a hose connecting the two. Define "mess".

The passanger axle. It goes through the middle of the mount... <_< :chairshot: I'm guessing that they had the brilliant idea. <Insert JDM speak> "Wait! I've got it! We'll rock the engine back ANOTHER 10* Causing all the rear gaskets to prematurely fail in an attempt to lower the engine height!" Then a month later somebody says, "Ummmmmm, guys... We don't have any room for a rear engine mount anymore..." & all the engineers give each other a wtf look. Yep! "This classic wtf engineering moment has been brought to you by Doritos!"

Hey bud check the stickies. ;)

You have to modify the cutoff (pita) or shim the lens out 3/8" to produce a sharp, non glaring cut-off. Otherwise... It's a relay, a powe wire, two ground wires, bolt the ballasts somewhere where they won't get wet & plug in the relay to one of the stock headlight harnesses so they turn on. Do not put HID's in that car if you are not capable of taking apart your stock projectors, and rebulding them... I will flog you for being a glaring, ricing, all around idiot.

Rear engine mount... Hey! If you've got a split CV boot tho, literally there is no better time to replace the half-shaft on that side than right now.