Toysrme

Buy a strut bar if you want bling that does nothing. Buy a sway bar if you want it to handle. Beware: Strut tower braces are notorious for not fitting & either banging into the hood, or the upper intake manifold bangs into the brace.

bobistheoilguy.com walmart + $18 = 5 quarts of Mobil1 synthetic.

Regardless of anything: Whining about leaving the internet is the same as telling everyone you're sooooo drunk. There is a term that starts with "Attention" and ends with something stevej doesn't like to see in public forums. ;) It's a bunch of opinions that should be left as opinions, with the understand that at times they: A) Need to be tweaked B) Are wrong C) Are insanely wrong You'll simply have to learn to deal with the fact that this isn't a contest with credentials. You having a lifetime of experiance with something doesn't mean anything if you can't tell me something useful. Your data get's taken with a grain of salt, just like everyone elses - until fact proves otherwise. Leave, or stay at your liesure, but don't whine.

1) Use the real key (Not a valet key) 2) Make sure the button to enable the trunk is turned on in the glove box, and it's wiring is OK 3) Make sure the wiring inside the trunk support has not split in half 4) Fix the latch

You get the sprocket off by taking the valve covers off & installing your big wrench on the hex portion of the camshaft. Then rotate the camshaft until the wrench brinds against the head. Then the cam will stay still so you can get the sprocket bolt out. Don't wedge the sprocket in place. You'll break the alighnment / anti-slip pin off the cam. They're not strong. I broke one of mine the last time i split a timing belt winter before last.

Just spray a cleaner in it. If you have one of the little wire plumbing brushes you can run that through there too. Nope. Depends. The paper gaskets generally break when u take them off. A tiny bit of rtv, or anything of the like will fix that up without having to worry about it.

The red vsv is the ACIS control. Without it the ACIS flap won't be told to shut @ 4000rpm & you'll be missing around 10bhp, maybe more. Past 4000rpm. The ECU also advances timing at the same specification which is the "power boost" ACIS-1 through 3 systems feel @ about 4200rpm. It's also a tiny vacuum leak. Tho not a big deal as the vacuum tank is a one way vacuum source. I'm glad u got it running, good job! I never new 92-93 did that. I would almost swear they don't, as I trigger my car alarm about half the time I open the hood without using a key first hah!

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...l=won't+run

You don't need to ask multiple times. We'll see it. (You also just dug out a thread from 2004 man.)

5w-30, to 10w-30. I like 5w-30. Register your ES at lexus.com & request an owners manual. It's old, outdated information, but they'll give u a free one every few months.

No dude that's stupid. The hydraulic fan installed kicks the whomping *BLEEP* out of an equivilant size electric fan. Dude you need to fix your damn overheating problem before you toast the headgasket & conciquently warp the heads. Change the thermostat. Change both the pressure caps & flush the coolant. If it happens after that ditch the radiator & water pump before you blow it up...

Denso ltd dropped the Nippon from it's name around 1990. Most subsidiaries/plants followed suite within a few years of that. Tho not all have... Those filters are fine. Looks like the Malaysian Nippon filter to me... Those are not uncommon to still see. There are many Denso filter makers. TOYOTA BOSHOKU FILTRATION SYSTEM (THAILAND) CO., LTD. are also common to still see floating around. P.T. DENSO INDONESIA CORP. Also show up,\. TIANJIN TOYOTA BOSHOKU AUTOMOTIVE PARTS CO., LTD. Is Chinese. You won't find them. North American built vehicles use: TBDN TENNESSEE COMPANY I forget which JDM plant makes Denso's First Time fit filter. One of the SE Asian plants makes them also under a different name in a plain box / no special marketing. If you get them with nice pre-done gaskets w' covers. That it & you struck gold. I digress. You're most likely fine.

Check the timing first. What is the voltage output of VS on the AFM? Turn the key to on & push the AFM door open. You'll hear the fuel system turn on & the injectors open briefly as fuel flows back into the return line.

No. Take the wheel off, replace the pump & check the powersteering rack to see if it's leaking. Flush the powersteering fluid every few years to keep them seals in good condition. ;)

Anything is possible. Be the first person to fit some HIR's in there. What are those now $70 off that one guy?

Noooo don't fill it with the engine idling. Everybody that does that always winds up spending all day trying to purge air out of the system. Just do it by hand, trust me. 'cause the only way I know to get air back out is tell somebody, (So go back & do it again, this time by hand) It doesn't take long. Maybe 2-5 min of turning the wheel to flush all of it out.

You can definately do a DIY valve body job. I'm on my third rebuild, and have yet to get happy with the results... If you can't figure it all out, I suggest shipping the valve body off to IPT. They have experiance with them & a great reputation. They also built Tony's A541-E transmission. It handled 390whp well enough, seeing that he's off to ultra huge turbo lan now lol! If you're just worried about transmission life, No biggie. Just add that second cooler, keep fresh oil in it & tighten that kick-down cable till it shifts like you want it. Assuming you're not gonna try to pass 250bhp+ on just a transmission cooler. I'd suggest a valve body mod for 280 & just letting IPT completely rebuild a new one by the time you're looking at 320+. Then agian you may want the better shift quality of a valve body regardless of a bit extra holding power. In which case... Go for it!

Anybody else? If not 50-50 shot at looking smart LoL! "Come one come all!" "Step right up!" "Guess a hose, win a cookie!"

^!Removed!!^ I wouldn't leave it in there long. Go back & !Removed! slap him!

*edit* Typo. I wouldn't take it under warranty. There might be, but I highly doubt it. If I were a dealer I wouldn't accept it. Minus some defect in manufacturing for a gazillion parts (it did happen those couple of years with brake pads on the camry paltform in the mid 90's), brakes are a 98% end-user affair. They wear & die at the user's disgression. Kinda like a radio button. If you snap it off, I doubt the dealer is going to consider that a warr item. You can try it. For god's sake don't let them replace your brakes tho. I'll striaght up tell you, Hawk HPS track pads up front, Akebone ProACT pads on the back, brembo blanks all around. Brake work is easy. :) Take the plunge come on!

camlex, barring something odd - as an o2 sensor ages two things happen. 1 they respond slower 2 they read progressively less voltage (Lean) so the management runs progressively richer. Even when they still output about the right voltage signal, they can still be slow to read etc. I still think it's more like a limp mode. On my 3vz-fe when I was installing my smt-6 I had to run across town before I was finished. Long story short, there were ignition signal problems I wasn't able to sort out, but the engine would crank & run in the bad limp mode so I went anyway. I got sub 50 miles to a 1/2 tank. (Maybe 40-45 it's been a few years) Make sure you have all your gears avalible too you. 1-4. Both a limp mode, and warm-up programming will lock-out overdrive on the transmission. Make sure it shifts into O/D & check the coolant sensors too. (Still check those o2 sensors). Check the plugs like they said. It could be contributing, bad spark isn't going to be the **sole** cause for that bad of mileage IMO. The ECU is still squirting the same fuel (less) regardless if it's burning or not.

Polishing the compressor housing will minutely help. There are positives & negatives to both an A2A & A2W cooler. When the actual charge cooler itself stays the same size, an A2W cooler is more efficient. Otherwise, they are harder to package, require maintenance, more weight, more parts etc. I'm not the biggest fan of A2W intercoolers on road-going cars. Unless you're running on a track all day, or doing lots of semi-sustained boosting I just don't see the need. There are so many used & cheap coolers that are as good as anything else you can buy cheaply. The if you get to the point where you're boosting for so long it starts to heat soak, a $5 windshield washer pump, $3 of hose from a store & a few dollars in atomizer/mist nozzle<s> will solve that. Water spray on a cooler is great stuff. If you're worried about running out of water, there is *plenty* of space in the engine bay / behind bodypanels in the nose to run however much water you need. Run a gallon if you want. Or 4. I digress, your project, if A2W is where it's at for you, it zings my bing! I wouldn't add an oil cooler pre-turbo. Little of the oil will be cooled. Add an oil cooler pre filter & relocate the oil filter. Keep the turbo oil supply line to about 1/8", or a 3AN size. Turbo's under a generic T4 size don't need much oil & too big a supply line is a common cause of leaky/blown out seals. I can run you through a good A/F setup. That's not going to be a big problem. Yes, you can add extra injector<s> to make up fueling differences. I prefer that method to replacing all injectors & re-tuning the stock ECU, whenever possible. It's the easiest way to effectively tune something. (No you don't use a separate fueling system. You simply T into the existing fuel setup.) mmmm I don't really know of any guides on building your own A2W cooler. I really don't know where to begin to help you on that one. Ya know... In a way I'm jelous of you. You're gonna have a lot easier work to do than anyone else will. Regardless of the 2vz being weaker, that es250 will be faster @ 200-220bhp than anyone elses ES 300 will be @ 280bhp. And yet you're still in the rough paramiters that the drivetrain can safely work in without much second thought. :)

chargerucd, I vote no. Based off no opinion other than I think those are taiwanese bulbs & the marketing on the package is lieing. speedshift like they said, replace them in pairs. That being said, there are different versions of silverstars floating around & they have changed them more than once in the last few years. It's hard to tell. There is some color differance between the two pictures, but I'm not forming an opinion for a few varriables. 1) The fog lights are aim a bit differently 2) Bulb installation. You *can* wiggle the bulbs around in the housings ever so slightly. That will change how it looks once projected through the lens. 3) The passanger & drivers side are the same thing for all practicale purposes, but are a tiny hair different from each other. I'm probably being too anal, but... Eh... Give it a month & go buy $6 worth of 9006 sylvania bulbs, or $7 worth of 9005 sylvania bulbs. Or spend $75 on an HIR conversion, or a couple hundred bucks for descent rebased bulbs & mod the projectors so it comes out well.

92-94 I remember it being the one closest to the firewall is the res-> pump & the one nearest the nose is pump <-res. I could be wrong. The 92-94 had 4 lines 'cause it was the hydraulic cooling fan ones so... Even if I remember it correctly, they coulda changed it & I'd still be wrong. If nobody knows I guess you'll have to take 'em both off & start turning the wheel to see which one pumps out fluid in little squirts. (Jack the front of the car up tho & do it with the engine off.)

Sounds more like you're in a limp mode. You sure the check engine light isn't burned out? 1) Reset the ECU 2) 100,000m on an oxygen sensor is normal. Check/replace them both. I digress. I would doubt it's an injector problem, or you'd be running black smoke off whatever cylinder was dumping fuel.