Toysrme

exactly lol oil isn't some pure wholeistic thing you cook fish in. it's a gallon sized container of *hopefully* *all* the trash in your engine. you have to WORK HARD to get oil to stay fresh looking for just a 3,000 mile oil change interval. that means flushing it on a fairly regular basis and using a large capacity of oil if possible. (the more oil you carry, the longer it lasts. ask bmw's i6's) you know... if you're not flushing regularly enough to keep the insides very very clean. it's completely normal on any type of engine to have dark brown to black out inside of a thousand miles. and you know, if you've got an oil leak, you've got an oil leak. it's not the oil, it's the failed gasket lol fix it!

non v6 gs300's. slowest cars in the lineup almost consistantly.

would also like to add how awesome that OEM cover plates/splash shields / whatever you want to know them by are. i know alot of local muscle car restorers that have to install their own cover plates because their rockers sling oil straight out the breather holes into the engine bay. lol!

That's cool, but I've servied 94 & 95 vehicles with R12 myself :\ so they apparantly didn't get them all done in time?

IDK about the ES/Windom's, but the Camry's didn't change until 95/96. (half generation update) I would think R12 in the '94. You can buy a product called Freeze 12 that will fill & lubricate it R12 systems. That's good to know. ;) To answer the qestion specifically I would *think* the compressor will physically align, bolt in, and connect. But you must fill the compressor with the correct gas (because they use different lubricating oils) otherwise you'll just blow the seals in the compressor as it burns up from a lack of lubrication. There should be a sticker under the hood I think.

That's not sludge, It's simply oil that has burned on the cover plate for the oil fill cap. It's almost impossible for that not to happen. Toyota puts protictive shielding on all the external orifaces of it's valvecovers to keep oil from being slung out of the engine if they ever go missing. Same thing happens to the PCV / crankcase breather cover plates, etc, etc. What you're showing is normal operation. The oil film that attaches to the cover plates doesn't 100% drip off & simply cakes over time. You have to pull both the valve cover's off to check for sludge. I can flat out tell you. if you take that to a dealer, they're goingt o laugh at you & send you right back out the door unless you can prove sludge. Either by pictures inside the heads (remove valve covers), or there is actual sludge related damage occuring. Which, unfortunately, breaks down into a lack of oil circulation has roasted a bearing. The first sign of that is typically engine damge so sever the bottom end must be rebuilt. (i.e. rod collapsed, bent, slung off the crankshaft, or snapped in half) So if the engine isn't knocking & you don't have pictures inside the valve covers... They're gunna toss you out, or charge you the $200-300 for taking the valve covers off & replacing the gaskets. You know... That's good long-term maintenance, but something I think alot of mechanically inclined people would just preffer to do at home.

Major valve cover gasket leak. Fix it before you drive it. No pulley should wobble... No they're not difficult. The crankshaft pulley requires removing the passanger tire & setting the car on jackstands. remove plastic access panel, remove large crankshaft nut, remove crankshaft pulley.

use a screw, or bolt extractor, and/ or a reverse drill bit. at which point re-tap threads & insert a new bolt. no big deal.

It has been confirmed they will not fit a 1999 vvt-i 1mz-fe. That rules out 1997+ 1mz-fe's.

So OBX has a set of new shorty v6 headers & a y-pipe on sale now for the Camry platform v6. Buyer beware, they will require some extent of modification regardless of what you try to bolt them on. They're being sold as: The problem is that they will not work directly with anything you mate them too. They use the 1994-1996 1mz-fe exhaust manifold flanges. So they bolt to a 1mz-fe. The EGR bung will not mate to a 3vz-fe, or a 1mz-fe. EGR will need to be deleted, and the bung plugged. The o2 sensor bugs are 3vz-fe o2 sensor bungs. They are not 1mz-fe screw-in bungs. The Federal emessions seems to mate to the stock cat, with no provisions for a post-cat o2 sensor. The CA emessions seems to mate to the stock cat-back, with no provisions for a post-cat o2 sensor. They may, or may not fit a vehicle / engine. Someone will have to be a guinea pig as that is TBD. OBX has a reputation of botching fitment. Their Altima, Maxima, and Accord shorty headers / y-pipe combinations did not fit early on. The quality is lower & they have been known to crack from time to time. So it's hit & miss. Like the rest of the Chinese headers. Obviously, all of this is offset by the fact that they're selling them at less than $350usd currently. Just thought I'd let people know since we've been discussing them on ClubLexus.

it can store minor codes without the light.

Firestone is full of bull*BLEEP*. The end links require a 14mm wrench & some random size allen wrench. The sway bar bushings (mounts) require a 14mm socket. ^ From what I remember having done mine years back.

Well it's either leaking fluid, or it's venting it. In the event of a transmissin fluid over-fill. Asian-warner is smart enough to install a vent, so the tranny just dumps out fluid. Most people don't know that. I like the feature personally. At any rate, yeah I'd go back & complain of leaking transmission fluid. It's under warranty after all. :) Hell let them front a $1000 bill, they're treate lol!

...you love it that cars 6-15 years old still look major hawt... except for the really !Removed! taillights, wtf!? ...your 15 year old leather in the cheapest lexus made is still atleast 3x the quality of any current L-daddy, Caddy, or Chrysler. ...you ask me questions directly ...you actually have my number in your cellphone, and txt me on a semi-regular basis sorry, had to do it lol

They'll leak at any point, but one of the surfaces will warp & start dumping fluids.

or do a compression / leakdown test but i very seriously doubt you'ev got a leaking head-gasket. when a head gasket blows, it will leave no question in your mind as to what happened. once a HG unseats enough to let coolant start pouring into a chamber in any amount, it'll very, very quickly (within instants) become a full time, large leak. meaning you smoke all the time and your oil will look like a milkshake. it dumps passed the cylinder rings.

No biggie, the first impulse is lways to grab the $6 bottle of amrid & toss it in there, but that's not normally the best idea. atleast flush your cooling system out & make sure the radiator isn't even remotely close to having gel in it if you want to try that stuff. besides, that stuff is honestly for if you crakc a block just a tiny bit & need to drive alittlewhile. Won't stop a head gasket leaking for nuttin! too much temp & stress. You've got coolant being blasted into a jet of steam (both in & out the hole) the gasket uneats letting even more combustion chamber heat/pressure in. the oil supply can be >70psi if you jump on the gas. it's just sorta a tall order. but based on what you were saying... I don't think you've got a head gasket leak. Just burning off moisture. Take your plugs out... if you've got a chamber with coolant in it, you'll have a spark plug come out INSANELY clean. Like it had been steam cleaned. (Guess why!) while the other plugs will be a grey / charcoal color. maybe brown / black'ish if they're really old / you're burning oil.

Which oil light.... the red oil light is the red light of death the yellow oil light, barring it's been screwed up & no longer floats to the oil level, means fill the *BLEEP*ing engine with oil you're almost out lol

If the white smoke goes away it's nothing more than condensation in your exhaust. and your cooling system is probably near clogged anyways due to a lack of maintenanace. Why would you want to introduce something designed to clog a cooling system into yours?

Depends on how far you want to go...

no they wouldn't. any unburnt fuel going through a cylinder would burn on the manifold, or as soon as it hit the cat. probably the head gaskets, or if you're 1% lucky one of the intake manifold gaskets may be leaking into an intake port. take the plugs out & whichever one<s> are clean. is the offending cylinder. warm the enigne up & do a compression / leak down test to see. lifespan? well assuming you put coolant in it... until the moisture in the oil burns the bearings up & the engine siezes, or a bearing siezes & a rod tries to throw itself out the block. It's a "fix it quickly before you incurre more damage" deal. If you do it fast, you have options. Regasket the engine at a big cost. Swap to a JDM engine at a big cost. If you wait you have to rebuild the entire engine top to bottom, or replace it.

Ah man that sucks !Removed!. yeah them SRS airbags don't *BLEEP* with ya when they pop. lol!

Yes, both the upper & lower itnake manifolds have to come off. It's the sensor, or the wiring. Toyota ECU's never fail. (Unless you own a gen1 Prius)

Forget it. To do anything to the front of the car, you have to replace the front facia, hood, headlights, foglights, and 1/4 panels. You'd be looking at well in excess of $1500usd just to acomplish that on a car that simply isn't worth the money. It's not even worth the trouble to do a seat swap. The only reasonable thing to do is sell that & buy an ES, even if you have to drop back a year to do it.

Yes, but always cross refferance brake parts. ES/Windom brakes = Camry v6 wagon brakes. They don't always completely match normal v6 camry brake parts.