steviej

P0115, P0116, P0125 and P0128 are all engine coolant temperature and thermostat related trouble codes that will set off your CEL. steviej

I don't want to start and arguement, but according to my service manual, cylinders 2,4 6 are in the LH bank which would be the bank closest to the radiator, NOT the firewall. Granted my manual is for an '02 but a 1MZ-FE engine nonetheless. I doubt they would switch the designation of the cylinders. Here are what is listed as possible trouble areas. Open or short in engine wire Connector connection Vacuum hose connection Ignition system Injector Fuel pressure Intake air flow meter EFI engine coolant temperature sensor Compression pressure Valve clearance Valve timing PCV hose connection ECM It also states: When the 2 or more codes (P0300 to P0306) for a misfiring cylinder are recorded repeatedly but not Random Misfire code (P0300) is recorded, it indicates that the misfires were detected and recorded at different times. now add in the P0170 it sounds more of a fuel pressure than it does a spark issue. It doesn't state P0170 as being specific to bank 1 (which is the bank closest to the firewall.) Codes P0171 and P0172 are Bank 1 and codes P0174 and P0175 are specific to Bank 2. I would pull the front plugs and have a peek. Reseat the coils and then have the fuel pressure tested while you are driving the car. just out of curiosity (and its a long shot), you didn't happen to run out of gas at any point did you. I mean run out of gas as in run the tank dry and come to a complete stop while driving type of run out of gas? steviej

hi daddy!!! right now the bank owns mine, I'm just borrowing it from them. In about 2 more years they will give me the title. steviej

P0135 has nothing to do with the heat as in the temperature inside you car or the coolant system. P0135 is a faulty O2 sensor, specifically, Heater Circuit Malfuntion. The O2 sensor in question is located at Bank 1 Sensor 1. This is the O2 sensor that is between the firewall and the engine. Solution: 1. Replace the O2 senosr. - the dealership will charge you and arm and a leg. - the OEM O2 sensor can be had at www.sparkplugs.com for $89.49. It is not hard to replace. You will need a special socket (at autozone for about $15). 2. Get a motorvac and see if that doesn't clean your current O2 sensor for the time being. steviej

The "Liquid Leather" as seen on TV does not work. I tried it on my old car. Eventually due to summer heat, it just peels right off. Unfortunately, now that your dash has a crack, further cracking and drying of the understuff will accelerate due to exposure to moisture and air at the crack. Find an auto upholestery/vinyl repair guy in your area and get a professional consult. Just be seated when he tells you the price. steviej

ooopps. I forgot that one. thanks sk. steviej

price would help too. steviej

two things come to mind in order of most like possibility. 1. Idle air control motor is faulty, dirty or sluggish. -you can clean it or replace it. 2. Fuel pump is dying or dead. - have a technician monitor the fuel pressure through all sorts of driving from start up to acceleration to deccelration, high speed, idle, etc. 3. clogged fuel filter. replace it. steviej

BC97ES300 If your CEL is on, then get the codes read. There are plenty of trouble codes that will illuminate this idiot light on the dash. Autozne and Pepboys will read them for free. When you tires hit the snow did they spin fast or just vibrate. Sometimes the TRAC system gets overloaded when you spin a tire. The sensor(s) overheat(s) and then has to cool down before the light goes out. When it is cooled, it will reset when you turn the car off and then on again. Has the TRAC OFF light gone away since first appearence? Did you try to push the TRAC OFF button accidentally? It may be that your TRAC system has been turned off manuall. The button should be on the lower part of the dash. If the TRAC system did not get turned off, then you may have a problem with the traction control system. Again, get the codes read. Last possible scenario. The CEL light is on for a reason. A signal was sent to the ECU that made the light come on. Could be anything from a loose gas cap to a bad O2 sensor to a faulty knock sensor, to a misfiring cylinder. (hundreds of possibilities). You could have developed a second problem that the ECU will put the car into "limp mode" or safety mode. This is signified by illumination of both the CEL and the TRAC OFF lights. In any case, you won't know what you have until YOU GET THE CODES READ. Only the codes will provide the clues. Post up the codes when you get them and we can better help you. steviej

still get the codes read first. steviej

I totally love the chrome strip on the 05 ES. It is attractive but yet subtly understated and yet chrome. However, it is not offered in the 1C0 color code of my car. So that makes me look at the one I posted. I guess I could go with the 05 strip and have it repainted. Bren, I looked at the weathergard strips and they stick out to the sides more than I desired. The jdm ones on l-tunedparts.com are almost flat against the side of the car. The major dilemna here is that the stirp will cover most of the upper chrome strip on the door. Unlike the black door edge on the Windom in the picture, my door edges are chrome. time to flip the coin. steviej

I spray mine with Simple Green and let is soak. Then down to the coin-op laundry and use the industrial ones that you can see in the door. I find the domestic washers don't have the aggitation necessary to get them really clean. Then they go in the dryer for 10 minutes. works great and gets them very very clean. I have also resolved myself to the fact that I will be replacing them every 2 years as this process twice a year does do a job on the edges as mentioned above. steviej

I am seriously considering these two external modifications. Side Visors Side Visor link Chrome Trunk Bar Chrome Trunk Bar link Sorry, I couldn't download and post the pictures themselves. And thanks for your help in making up my mind. :P steviej

there are a ton of reasons as to why the CEL and TRAC lights came on. These two lights together mean the car is in "safety" mode. The power is reduced automatically to keep the car in a protected state. You are correct, that a malfunction has occured. The problem is that there are many sensors that could have triggered the safety mode. The best thing to do, is go to Autozone or PepBoys and have them read the codes. The offer this as a free service. Copy down each code and post them here. We can then better advice you as to the situation at hand. If they ask if you want the codes erased, it won't hurt but keep in mind, they will most likely return in a few miles. Even if you disconnect the battery to erase the codes for the ECU (electronic control unit) the codes will come back if the same faulty signal is received by the ECU. steviej

before we go and flush or drain, we still haven't ruled out the fact that it may be temperature related. steviej

I ran into the same problem with the hubs on my ES. I used the G2 kit from TireRack. here is a thread from the IS forum that I posted some pictures in. Brakes and Rotors let me know if you have any specific questions. steviej

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I suggest that you reread the rules and guidelines for posting items on this site for personal sale. These guidelines can be found in the Buy & Sell Forum at the top. Please supply the necessary information within two days. I will then move this thread to the Buy & Sell forum where it should be. (Since your post count is less than 20, you would have not been able to post it there). If the required information is not supplied by Monday evening, I will have to remove this post. I have also removed your thread from the LS forum to eliminate duplication of threads. PS. Here is a hint, pictures or each rim and tire are always helpful. No one wants to buy sight unseen. steviej LOC Moderator.

may be an air lock. I know there is a trick/special way of refilling the coolant on the ES. It is not as straight forward as just pouring it in. Air gets trapped very easily, the special way is supposed to insure that all excess air is expelled before the pressure cap is secured. steviej

let me guess, you removed the positive cable first didn't you!? :chairshot: as for the sputtering and putting, sounds like a spark plug has gone bad, a coil has crapped out, or a spark plug wire has come off. Any CEL codes? steviej

title changed as requested.

take the same advice as SW gave you for your brake worry. find another 2001 ES and drive it. See if you can recreate the noise. steviej

what color is/was the fluid that they think was contaminated and fluid analysis would answer some questions. If it is not contaminated then you would have to think mechanical defect. Could have been a faulty caliper or brake line that got crimped or clogged. I guess with smoke being created then the caliper on that side has damage now and any defect may be masked. Are the pads done to nothing on that side? Check the rubber gasket/boot on the caliper for any tears and check the brake line under that wheel well for any crimps. this will be interesting to see how it plays out. steviej

is it a rythmatic sound or sporatic? Is the sound louder inside or outside the car? does it make the sound when the wipers are in the same spot during their travel? does the repetition of the sound increase as the speed of the wipers increase. does it do it on INT, slow and fast or just on INT. I ask because it may be the switch on the INT cycler. Have you stood outside the car with the wipers on to see if you can hear it better? Have you tired new rubber inserts.....use only Lexus teflon ones. (not toyota/not tirco/not anco/ not rainX/not bosch) steviej

nobody is arguing that the pink or red coolant isn't good stuff. A year ago, I simply pointed out at the advice of my Lexus dealership that 60k miles may be stretching its workability, that was all. I will continue to use the pink stuff and change it at 30k miles, because like your experience works for you, my experience works for me. sj