steviej

That is bank 2 sensor 1, which is the WRONG ONE, as I have said twice now. Bank 1 is the side of the motor that is next to the firewall. The firewall is the wall that is between the motor and the passenger cabin. There are three cylinders on that side that go in a an exhaust manifold, too. It is not so easy to get at this sensor. I hope you have long arms. I find a milk crate is helpful to stand on and be careful of your belt buckle when you lean over the fender. steveij

I would not go down that far. As low as H only. BTW, the Triple Tread does come in H for 205/60-15, should that size be desired. here is a link. steviej

that is bank 2. Wrong sensor! I hope you didn't throw away the good sensor. I told you in my first post in this thread that it was the one near the firewall. :whistles: steviej Now, point of order. I have merged this thread with your original thread. By starting this separate thread, you had the same questions and conversations going on in two threads.

get the code read again and see if it is the same. You have multiple AF sensors and O2 sensors. You changed out the correct one, right? Lastly, did you replace with Denso or Bosch? I'm guessing Bosch cause Autozone don't sell Denso as far as I know. steviej

if you had me drive two identical ES's with the same make and size tires except one is H rated and the other is V rated: I don't think I could tell them apart at speeds up to 90mph. Of course this is speculation as I rarely drive over 90 and I haven't had the chance to try this experiment. however, I find no difference in handling from my previous V rated Bridgies and the current H rated Dunnies. steviej

could you repeat that in English? steviej

nope! The entire car should be covered under the CPO 3 year/100,000 mile warranty, just like a new car would be under the original 4 year/50k mile warranty. Items like brake pads, oil filters of coarse are not. If it is past the CPO 3/100k and is now under the extended warranty. It all depends on the codes and what is stated in your extended warranty. Read the fine print. Some stuff is covered, some stuff is half covered and some stuff isn't covered at all. You may even find that stuff that might be covered isn't covered until the inspector from the extended warranty company does his or her own inspection. you won't know until you talk to your dealer and the extended warranty company. steviej

Do a search on "valve cover" in the ES forum and open the search to encompass the last year. You will find a ton of threads and a variety of prices paid by member across the country. These include Lexus, Toyota and independent shops as well as DIY jobs. steviej

Now that I have used both. I'd pay the price and go with the PIAA Xtreme White without a doubt or a second thought. steviej

Racing

you are looking for fuel in its liquid form. I am speaking of fuel in the atomized form. steviej

2006 GS430 (awd) sj

there are also slew of fuses in a fuse box under the hood. which particular fuse are you looking for? steviej

could it be that maybe you have a CEL code P0135 (faulty O2 sensor) and lots of unburned fuel is just getting blown out with your exhaust?????? :chairshot: :chairshot: :chairshot: :chairshot: put this thread together with your other thread and it makes sense. steviej

I was just thinking the same thing. I wonder what legal guidelines must be followed when doing this kind of restoration. I am sure insurance companies have some sort of guidelines. At least the one to insure it and the occupants. Was this a totaled or salvaged vehicle? You may have to prove the airbags and seatbelts are new and installed properly to clear the title. steviej

TrueBlues: disconnecting the neg will remove the symptom not the cause. True if the light does not come back on immediately, it doesn't mean that it is gone for good. As for protocols, a good cleaning couldn't hurt and would only help the entire vehicle even if it doesn't clear the O2 sensor trouble code. Do a google search or call around your area to reputable autoshops that may offer a service called motorvac. The special socket is designed specifically for O2 sensors and Air/Fuel sensors. This socket has a space down one side that allows the wire from the sensor to exit the socket and not get crimped up inside. They go for about $15 and come in 3/8" and 1/2" drive dickholy: you haven't determined that the CEL and TRAC are solely caused by the P0135 code. As for leaving it 2 months in this condition it is hard to say. I know of people that have had their CEL on for almost a year and no signs of problems. I know of people that have left the CEL due to faulty O2 sensors and suffered premature catalytic converter failure due to high amounts of unburned fuel in their exhaust. It's a decision you have to make. steviej

who makes a 10K k HID bulb and how much illumination is that going to give you? I'm guessing it is going to be purple and a candle will through more light. the k number is the kelvin temp. not anything to do with amps. or watts. As long as you don't go higher than the stock wattage rating, you should endanger any wiring. steviej

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amores723, If you are serious about selling your IS, then I am serious about asking you to read the rules and guidelines for selling items on this site. They can be found in the Buy & Sell Forum. Your current post count makes you eligible to post in that forum, posting outside of that forum does not absolve you of the required information needed in your sale post. Please edit your post with the missing information, then I will move the post to the proper forum. Thanks for your cooperation in this matter. steviej ES/IS Forum Moderator.

The CEL and TRAC OFF light combo. This usually means the car has gone into limp or safety mode. One way to find out. Resolve the P0135 code. try www.sparkplugs.com for a better price than Autozone. You can even get OEM here. Bank 1 Sensor 1 is next to the firewall. You will need a special socket for the O2 sensor and it may be easier to get at it from under the car. Still thinking of doing it? It's not too bad if you are mechanically inclined. steviej

happens to me all the time. I don't have Navi, just the premium. I know exactly what Ming describes. It's just the cold. As the cabin warms up the LCD illuminates brighter. I usually see the darkening when it is below 20°F on the outside temp reading. Ming, don't worry about it. steviej

Means the car is in safety or limp mode. That's why I always tell people to get the codes read. All of them that cause the two light to illuminate. Actually, the BRAKE light is triggered by both. Low fluid levels and parking brake issues can trip the light. Thank you, me too. steviej

several things come to mind that may cause your symptoms and throw off the EGR and thus giving you the code. dirty/faulty IACV (idle air control valve) dirty throttle body lazy EGR. air intake tube from airbox to throttle body is cracked or has some holes in it. (this is the accordian like tubing) some people will tell you to do a google search and find a shop that provides a service called a motorvac. This is a machine that performs a thorough cleaning of the top end of the engine. Although I have not had to do one, several people have sworn by them. The iacv and throttle body can also be cleaned manually if you are mechanically inclined. steviej

there are hundreds of trouble code combinations that will cause the CEL and TRAC OFF lights to illuminate. The only what to know it to get the codes read. Again, this is a free service from Autozone and places of the like. JR, if your ES is pre-owned was it CPO? If it was CPO, and you bought it less than what happened to your 3 year/100,000 miles warranty. If still active, the whole job including the diagnostics should have been covered. Either way, welcome to the DIY world. steviej

maybe this one comes on the 4WD model with the towing package.