steviej

here's a novel idea that might improve your stability. Why not try keeping it down to about 85 or 90 on the highway. :chairshot: I just may be the poor guy coming the other way around the turn. steviej

micheal, first, where are you in the bay state? I know a good independent mechanic in Marshfield right off of route 3. Have you gotten an estimate from Midas or Meineke or the like? Just for giggles, I am curious as to what they would charge you. KYB are the stock struts. You can get them online. See if any independent in your area will allow you to provide the parts and they do the work. This will cut your costs. steviej

Shirley, Let see if I can help. your car has two half shafts. They exit the transmission from the left and right side and go to the wheels. The shafts have to flex and allow for the motion of the hub and wheel assembly. Each shaft is actually three segments, the three pieces or segments connected to each other with two "U" joint type of knuckles. The knuckle is actually metal against metal so it is packed with grease. To keep the grease in there and not flying all over the inside of you engine bay and underside of your car, the knuckle is encapsulated in a rubber accordian like wrapping or "boot". Each half shaft has two boots (inner and outer). You follow me so far? Once the rubber boot is pierced, torn, ripped, cut or damaged, the grease will spin out and you are left with metal grinding against metal. The classic clicking sound is then commonly heard at this point. The boots are rubber and exposed to weather, road debris, sand, dirt, rocks, sticks, animals (sorry had to through them in) and other damaging material. Any one on that list can tear open or damage the boot. Also, keep in mind that the longer the damaged boot is NOT replaced, the longer the knuckle has metal grinding against metal and that damage is irreversible.....then you have to replace the entire half shaft. Here are the options. 1. have the damaged boot replaced. Boot kits cost about $20 each. The price will be the labor. The shaft has to be removed, the old boot removed, the knuckle repacked with grease and the new boot secured. This takes time so parts are cheap, labor is expensive. You also may be rebooting damaged knuckles if the faulty boot had been greaseless for an extended period of time. 2. have ONLY the shaft with the damaged boot replaced. Entire half shafts can be obtained for less than $75 even for a Lexus. They are remanufactured, but come with brand new boots prepacked with brand new grease. Simple procedure. Take the old shaft with the damaged boot off, put in the new half shaft and close it up. The parts are a little more expensive the you make that up in the savings. You also gain TWO new boots, two undamaged knuckles and a new shaft. The dilemna comes in when you try to decide preventative maintenance for the future or try to calculate potential future costs. If a boot was damaged simply due to age and natural deterioration of the rubber, then the other three boots ain't got much time before they go and will need replacing to. -You could go with option #1 each time a boot lets go. Keep in mind this has the potential of happening 4 times because you have a total of four boots. -You could go with option #2 and just replace the half shaft with the damaged boot. At most this would have to happen twice. It also replaces both boots on one side and leaves you with a new axle shaft. The boots are factory made so there is also some quality assurance behind the rebooting. If the boot was damaged due to injury or insult from a foreign object then the other three may be in perfect or good condition and don't need to be replaced at this point in time. From my experience it has always been wisest to change out the entire half shaft that had the damaged boot. Expect to pay about $250-300 to swap out the shaft on ONE side of your car. Have the second mechanic you went to give you an estimate on doing the half shafts. Ask for two estimates, one estimate for just the damaged side and one estimate to replace both sides. Tell him you were so delighted that he found your tranny shifting problem that you would like to do business with him from now on. That's good for a couple a bucks off. If you have any other questions, just ask. steviej PS. Shirley.....have a Merry Christmas!!!!!

Exactly what I was going to say. You won't see the cracks in that picture. Accessory of serpentine belts go for about $15 to $25 each for the 1MZ-FE. A mechanically inclined person can even put them on themselves. Belts are rubber and exposed to excessive heat and rapid changes in temps. Belts will also give way quicker if they are exposed to engine degreasers and harsh cleaning chemicals. It is a good idea to replace them every 45k miles or every three years as a matter of habit. For the minimal expense, it ain't worth being standed. steviej

In 1999, when the 1MZ-FE went to VVT-i technology, it also became an "interference" engine. steviej

are you looking for size dimensions or orginal manufacturer? steviej

just make sure the throttle body cleaner or carb cleaner says "safe for O2 sensors" on the side of the can. people have cleaned the TB both ways. If you remove it, you may have to replace several gaskets when you mount it back on. steviej

more commonly is a valve cover gasket leak. same idea as Army's post. look at the seam between you cylinder head and the valve cover gasket. See if it is moist or if you can detect a trail of oil. Both front and rear valve covers will leak onto the exhaust manifold. steviej

the dealer will tell you that cause the life expectancy of a timing belt is on average: 5 years. your 1998 ES is also a non-interference engine so if the T-belt breaks you shouldn't damage engine parts. You'll just be dead in the water with no wind so to speak. It's fine if you got AAA and some time to kill, it's a PITA if you are out in the middle of nowhere at 2AM. I have heard of ES's that have gone 10 years on the orginal T-belt and over 100,000 miles. I have heard of ES t-belts failing at 70,000 miles. the choice is up to you. The newer ES' don't call for T-belts until 90k. steviej

you need to read the pinned thread above. steviej

look up member "squarehat" and contact him. he did the Gentex mirror swap on his early model ES, I think. It worked perfectly. or your could seardh on Gentex and mirror, open your search to over a year. steviej sorry, can't help you on the dome light. It sounds as though it would be the resistor or the bulb.

I fixed the triple posting. I would like to see a pic of that supercharged IS, hint....hint. :whistles: steviej

GOOD. all of them make too much money that Lexus needs to give them a vehicle. I worked for mine. steviej

save big $$$$$ and learn to DIY!!! it is real easy. steviej

I think you better read the rules and regulations about group buys before you try to set one up. :whistles: You won't find a market for carbon fiber replacements on the ES, not enough demand. steviej

lewinsb, welcome to the site. if you are guestioning sk's responce since you are new, it stands for Idle Air Control Valve. Common problem, the valve plunger gets clogged up with carbon and dirt, then it becomes sluggish. Cleaning or replacement may be required. steviej

Also, check the air intake hose. The black accordian like tube from the airbox to the intake. If there are any cracks or holes allowing excess air in after the MAF sensor, then this would create this problem too. This is a consistent problem with Toyota and Lexus as the tubing becomes harder and brittle with age and prolonged exposure to engine heat. steviej

Marty, welcome to the site. Please take a minute to read the forum guidelines and rule for posting items to be sold. The forum guidelines are at the top of every page and the rules for selling are in the Buy & Sell forum. I will give you two days to fill in the required information. I will then move the item to the proper forum. Should you not fullfill the requirements for posting your item, the thread will be removed. Thanks for cooperating with the rules and guidelines of this website. steviej IS/ES Forum Moderator

several options, 1. contact the manufacturer of the spoiler. 2. consult a body shop. steviej

www.spoilerdepot.com fill in the specs for a 2002-04 ES. they may even be offering the same one for the 05. They can even be ordered in Lexus colors. steviej Alan's (amf1932) avatar shows it. I have a few pics in the gallery.

no problem, that debation has been covered endless times. oil change. I go 5k cause I am using synthetic. I would go 3k if I used dino. However, there is not definate change interval written in stone and it is totally up to each individual owner. There are many variations and suggestions. Again, search on this topic if you would like to review the heated arguements and civil discussions that have already taken place. heater vent: it shouldn't steviej

awesome news lexusk8. what kind of warranty did you get on the reman, 1 year parts and labor? enjoy the new ride....new feeling ride. steviej

get the spoiler that amf1932 and I have. The spoiler is curved to better match the lines of the ES than the Camry stock spoiler. steviej

we have many voice recognition systems at work, they all stink. It may be cause I am in Boston and the software is written in Washington state. I know what I mean when I say "distilled watah" but the computer doesn't. I don't get it. May favorite is when I tell it to staht. It just sits there. I have to slowly say s-t-a-r-t. voice recognition is not what it is cracked up to be........yet. steviej

cool, i must listen for this this winter. is this a 2003 model TSB or 2002/3? steviej.