steviej

Would you two post in English, please. steviej

you are still considered a new member, until your post count is over 20, the PM and email functions will not work for you. steviej

before you go through all this, have you eliminated the radiator caps as suspect? steviej

then you are only treating the symptom and not the cause. poor practice. steviej

yes, I know, that is why I was asking. The original post is vague on the smell. we immediately assume that all engine smells in the cabin are the dreaded common valve cover and or rear seal leaks. steviej

this is a loaded question. It all depends on how well the car is maintained and how well you continue to maintain it. Personally, I can't see spending $2000 for a warranty that may never get used. That is alot of money to pay for piece of mind and roadside assitance considering AAA+ is ~$50/year. Look at it this way. You are still covered under the powertrain warrany for 7/70,000 miles. That is just for powertrain and even that list is limited, but you have it. As stated before, if any major problems were to happen, they probably would have surfaced by now. Most common items to go after the standard warranty are emissions related equipment and still these may or may not be covered under extended warranties depending on the company you choose to go with. Read the fine print of any company that you consider. Find out what is and what is not covered. Find out how many hoops you have to jump through before any service is covered. steviej

what does the "smokey smell" smell like? oil/pertroleum burning or sweet like maple syrup? steviej

aaaahhhhhhhh, Eeeeeeexcellent Smithers.

check the Buy & Sell forum and check Ebay. steviej

cynthiaes300 So, that you don't have to follow two threads in two different forums dicussing one problem, I have closed this thread and provided a link to your similar thread in the ES forum. You will find some replys there. steviej Link to thread in ES forum.

I totally agree, but unfortunately, I think the only Haynes manual in print for the ES covers years 97-01 of the models posted. steviej

cynthiaes300, try a search on Idle Air Control Valve, this is a common topic and their are many threads. The trottle body may also be dirty and need cleaning as well as the MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor. These too, have been covered endlessly. just to bring you up to speed, FAQ stands for frequently asked questions. This is a pinned thread at the top of the ES forum. give it a guick read. steviej

tone it down people or I am closing it down!!!!

My cat is the only living being that own's me. :P I think you meant to say owe me, to that I say not a problem. That is all I do in addtion to keeping a small 3x5 notebook in the console to jot down mileage and date of whenever I do anything to the car. steviej

Mike, high enough for me to crawl under with room to spare and the jack is not at its fullest extension. I have to check but I think my jack may be the 3 ton version and not the 1 ton as previously stated. I concur with the other posts. Go for the $39.99 jack. Just make sure you can roll the jack under the crossmembers when it is at its lowest position. Check the jack stands too and see if they come with safetys. steviej

Mike, The 15k service is simple if you have a Saturday afternoon and the right tools. The two big things are the tranny drain and fill. They simply drain what is in the tranny pan (about 3.5 qts) and refill with new. They don't drop the pan, they don't flush the entire system. I actually created a thread with pictures for doing it yourself in the driveway. It is easier than doing the oil and filter. Here is the link: Although for a 2002, the 2005 is the same. 2002+ ES Tranny Drain and Fill The oil and filter is a piece of cake but takes some angling of your arm to get the old filter out. I can walk you through it if you are interested. The tire rotation can be done by you even with the jack in your trunk if you don't have a floor jack. It just takes longer. The rest is Brake Fluid/PS fluid and coolant fluid inspection/top off. The air filter is changed as is the cabin filter. All of which can be done by you. The reason for the high price is that Lexus service works on a time alotment basis. Each fluid replacement is alotted 1 hour. At $95 to $120 per hour, that jacks the price up quickly. Luckily, the 15k, 45k, 75k services only have two fluids. I do the oil and filter and tranny drain myself. The dealer only does the brake fluid, PS fluid and coolant on the 30k, 60k etc. The only reason for that is I don't want to mess with coolant and Ps fluids and the brakes are power flushed. think about it. you can save some hard earned money here. I do agree with SW in the respect that if I do have to bring the car in for service, I prefer going to Lexus just for the ease, comfort, and how they treat me. steviej

I do the same tranny drain and fill the dealer does on the 15's, except it cost me less than $20. steviej

hydrolic 1 ton floor jack and and 2 jack stands came as a set from Sears (Craftsman). Got it at a good price and if any of the three ever break, automatically replaced, no questions asked. The ramps I have are too steep and hit the bottom of the bumper before the tires start up the incline, so I don't use them on the Lex. steviej

Chirs, IAC is short for Idle Air Control valve. TB is usually short for Throttle Body. Try searching on the bold words. steviej

First question: Is the sound reproducible or did it only happen this one time. Go back to the exit and see if you can make it happen again. Jack the front end up and look under. check the rubber boots that cover the CV joints. Make sure they are intact and not ripped or torn. If they are, see if grease sprayed everywhere under the car around that boot. If you are following me, I am thinking CV joint problems. Find a ramp that goes in the opposite direction and hit it at the same conditions as when you heard the noise. See if you can hear the noise again. Find a large parking lot that is wide open, open your windows, start making a gradual circle and each time you go around, tighten the circle up. Listen to see if you can recreate the "kathunk". Do this in both directions. Second question: Are you applying the brakes at all when you are on the ramp? I ask because in a previous post, here, you speak of a kthump, kthump, when you apply the brakes. Is this the same sound? I would venture that something is a miss with you new brembo rotors. Maybe as the suspension compresses (brakes being applied) then something is hitting the rotor? I reaching here. steviej

www.l-tunedparts.com steviej

and Toysrme, what YOU don't know about are the posts by Kowalski that contained mostly four letter words beginning with the letter C and F. Of course these posts have been removed due to the extreme valgarity. This is the utmost violation of the forum rules and guidelines. It is correct that people will take what they want and do what they want regardless of what is posted. I also agree that some tempers started to flare, however, some posts were just too unacceptable to leave in public forum. Now if anyone has any further critique of management, moderators or other members, please take it up in PM. After receiving 6 "Report this post to a moderator" I am in agreement that this thread should be closed because it has culminated in nothingless than personal criticisms and finger pointing. I think we are well aware of everyone's viewpoints on washes used as spacers. THIS THREAD IS NOW CLOSED. steviej ES Forum Moderator.

as Toysrme indicated, O2 sensors have multiple codes for each sensor. Keep in mind that just because the code indicates a bad sensor it may not be. It can be a problem upstream from the sensor that manifests itself with a faulty signal from the sensor. you can look the code up yourself: http://www.troublecodes.net/Lexus but be careful. double check you codes with another source (here, another website, an actual shop manual or call a dealership). We have already found one misprint on this website. steviej

sorry, you have to at least have a driver's license for us to wish you a happy birthday. :whistles: just kidding. Happy 14th. steviej

then how do you know the CEL or DTC indicates a bad O2 sensor. There are tons of sensors & codes that will set that idiot light off. It doesn't have to be specifically the O2 sensor. However, this is most common. You are better off saving your money, get the code read and address the specific problem. what about PepBoys, or OReily's. Call any major autoparts store and see if they read codes for free. Post the specific code and we will tell you what the code means. steviej