steviej

I have two oil lights: "the genie lamp" by itself is the Low Engine Oil PRESSURE warning light. "the genie lamp" with the wavy line under it is the Low Engine Oil LEVEL warning light. If it is an oil pressure problem, then: maybe the oil pump is getting tired. maybe the oil pick up is restricted or partially clogged. thus creating a low oil pressure when the demand for oil is higher. steviej

pretty much standard equipment on most imports, especially Lexi. steviej

-The emblems are brand new and as stated, for a 97-01 ES. -I purchased them last spring with the direction from the seller that they would fit my 2002 ES exactly. They do not match size for size exactly so I opted not to use them. -Shipping was $3.00 from MO to MA (me) with delivery confirmation. Let's call it $5.00 for MA to CA 2 day post. If you are interested, email or pm me to discuss modes of payment. Here is a picture. Thanks, steviej

-does it make the grinding when in neutral and you bring it up to 2000 rpm? -can you pinpoint the noise to the front, the left side, the right side, both, -when it is grinding in 2nd, does dropping it into 3 make the grinding go away? a little more info would help since we can't ride in the car and hear exactly what the grinding is. I am thinking in the direction of cv joint (as noted above), wheel bearing, and lastly tranny. I tend to think in increasing dollar amounts. steviej

that manual should surfice for the basics.

Ok, I'm doing an end of summer cleaning of the garage and I came across the BP emblems. I'll take $60 bucks to get them out. anyone, anyone, Beuller, anyone??? steviej

their you have it, a simple solution. :D Thanks for the update. steviej

sk, I have opened this thread, split out the original post and moved it to the RX forum where it should have been posted in the first place. I agree, that the member failed to read the instructions at the top of the Workshop forum, but leaving the locked thread here does not help a member either. Lastly I have returned the thread to the closed status. steviej

sk, I have opened this thread, split out the original post and moved it to the RX forum where it should have been posted in the first place. I agree, that the member failed to read the instructions at the top of the Workshop forum, but leaving the locked thread here does not help a member either. Lastly I have returned the thread to the closed status. steviej

sk, I have opened this thread, split out the original post and moved it to the ES forum where it should have been posted in the first place. I agree, that the member failed to read the instructions at the top of the Workshop forum, but leaving the locked thread here does not help a member either. Lastly I have returned the thread to the closed status. steviej

remove the headlight unit from the car and place it in a hot dry place. (oven at 120-140 degrees or so). Not enough to melt the plastic but hot enough to dry out the insides. When dry, hold the light unit in a water bath large enough to immerse the unit past any seals. See if it leaks. If so, use a bead of silicone or aquarium sealent to stop the leak. Also look at the gasket around the bulb holder. If it is dry or cracked, that will let moisture in. A thin bead of sealant will work and still allow you to remove the bulb later. steviej

usually the two lights on together mean the car has gone into "safety mode" Bring it back to the dealer. They probably forgot to hook up a sensor after they changed the plugs or something. They will read the codes and figure it out. If you get a chance, ask them what it was. If it ain't related to the 60k service, don't let them try to make you pay for it. steviej

find an automotive re-upholsterer in your area. They may be able to repair just the panel that is torn for a fraction of the cost of a whole new seat. steviej

I have a Yakima system for my kayak. Works really well. Yakima and Thule make awesome and diverse rack systems (including ski). I also purchaced them at a place in my area called RackSmith. www.racksmith.com steviej

is the 11.5 qts the entire cooling system capacity or just the radiator capacity? just draining the radiator does not drain the entire system. sj

What do the rear pads look like, do they not match up either? Did you call Park Place and discuss this with them? It is possible that the wrong pads were put in that box. It happens sometimes. Twice I have gotten left CV shafts when the box indicated the part number for the right CV shaft. Was a toyota but not my Lex. I am sure there is a simple explanation and a simple solution. steviej

Google gave 76,000 hits for "auto door edge guards" . here is one When in doubt when looking for misc. auto stuff like that, always check JC Whitney steviej

that advice is given out at least weekly. Don't forget to request the supplemental owners manual, that's free too. steviej

BE WARNED! once you buy a Lex, you will never go back to anything else. They are addicting. If all it needs is a valve cover gasket and you are on a budget and more so....you feel good about it then go for it. Keep in mind that all the NEW stuff adds up to more than the car's selling price AND it is 14 years old. If you buy it, then I wish you the best. Enjoy it. steviej

Here's your list: 1990 LEXUS ES250 High & low beam headlamp 9004 9004ST Silverstar High Performance Halogen Upgrade: The Look of HID: Whitest, Brightest 9004XV XtraVision Halogen Upgrade: Up to 20% Brighter 9004CB Cool Blue Halogen Upgrade: White Hot; Super Cool; 100% Street Legal 9004LL Long Life Halogen Upgrade: Lasts two and a half times longer Parking light 168 Front turn signal 1157 1157LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp Rear turn signal 1156 1156LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp Tail light 1157 1157LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp Stop light 1157 1157LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp High mount stop light 921 921LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp License plate 168 Back up light 1156 1156LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp Front sidemarker 168 Rear sidemarker 168 Glove box 161 Dome light 194 194LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp Step/Courtesy light 194 194LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp Trunk/Cargo area 194 194LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp Instrument-general 194 194LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp All this and more can be found here. steviej

I am told it is a simple process. All the pieces are precut. You wet up the section in soapy water (I don't know if it is just dish soap or if a special solution comes with the kit). you also wet up the car so that the piece section slides around for positioning. When you got it in place, you blot off the wetness and let it dry. I would assume you squeegy out the air bubbles, too. Do a google search on Autobra or Clear bra and see what you come up with. steviej

why thank you sir. ;) steviej

the one in your sig. looks like a food processor in slow motion. steviej

ebay? I have seen wood and leather wheels there, the 2002+ shift knobs are always there. I don't know if I have ever seen a wood handle/knob for that type of shift (t-bar handle with OD switch). how about www.car-parts.com? When searched on a 2002 ES, they had five steering wheels listed. could you adapt one of those? Sit down when you see the prices. steviej

A. The battery: You have gotten more than your money's worth at 5 1/2 years. When in doubt, go by Autozone and have your battery load tested. This may give you some idea or it's efficiency. Atlanta is not New England. I get cautious with batteries and the wide temperature variations year round. I consider myself lucky if the battery goes past 4 years. If 5 1/2 years of age is worrysome, then bite the bullet and change it out. Excellent batteries can be had in the neighborhood of $75. B. The fog lights: I just replaced the stock H3 fogs with PIAA Xtreme Whites in my 02 ES. They give the fog almost the same bright white tint as the HID setup. I have since changed out the Xtreme whites for PIAA yellow ion crystals. I prefer yellow fogs over whites. The 99 ES installation is similar. 1. Raise the car and support with two jackstands. Never trust the jack alone. 2. Remove the 10mm bolts that hold the 2 black plastic splash guards (the 02 had 5 10mm bolts along the underside of the bumper). 3. The black plastic push pins come next. There where about 6-8. The 02 ES splash guard had 2 sections. I removed all but one push pin for each section. This way I could rotate the guard out of the way of the back of the fog light and get my head up in there. The shield was still attached so realignment took seconds. 4. The push pins could be removed with a large screw driver and a Ford Wrench (big f....n hammer). Just knock the head off them or use the large screwdrive and pry them out. They will make a pop and fall out. The 02 had pins that break upon removal if not careful. Don't worry, they are cheap. If you are careful, you can get them out without damage and then reuse them. 5. The back of the fog light has a plactic cover that will turn 90 degrees and then pull out. Don't pull to far cause it is connected by two wires. One is the switch and one is the power to the bulb. 6. The white wire (for the stock and PIAAs) is the bulb wire, it pulls out from the housing unit with a little tug. 7. There is a spring clip that you push in to unhook it and at the same time move to one side, then it pulls toward the back, releasing pressure on the bulb. Hold the bulb from the back. Pull it out slowly and orient yourself with the cut-outs on the ground plate of the bulb. One side had a square notch and opposite that was a half moon notch. Remeber which is up and which is down, or left and right. The exiting bulb is your guide for insertion of the new bulb. 8. Insert the new buld in the same orientation, put the spring clip back, plug in the wire, replace the black cover and move to the other fog light. DON'T TOUCH THE BULB WITH YOUR BARE FINGER. Body oils will create hot spots on the glass and the crack or burn out quicker. 9. The other fog light interesting enough was the same, but the spring clip and wire were opposite and upside down from the first side. My guess is that Lexus makes one housing and uses it on both sides, thus making a mirror image. 10. Turn on your lights to see if you connected them right. 11. Stand back and admire your work. 12. Get back under the car and reposition the shields. Put the bolts in but not tight all the way. 13. Replace the push pins with new ones (Lexus parts department if you want original-- about $1.00 each) or AutoZone for a bag of push pins--usually a bag of 10 costs about $3.00. The push pins come in many sizes and varieties. Bring one of the popped originals with you to size correctly. The christmas tree type can be used several times before the multitude of tiny barbs/bristles are too weak. 12. Tighten the bolts, lower the car. Drive to friend's house and show them what you did. Enjoy the rest of your day. This took me about 45 minutes. I didn't raise the car, so it was a bit tight but do-able. The car is stock and not lowered. The PIAAs were $63.99/pr. They are a 55w buld but emit the equivalent of a 110w. Replace the bulb with the same wattage (check your manual). There ain't much room in the housings for more heat. Good luck and have fun. steviej