steviej

gives a whole new meaning to having "shredded tweat" in the morning. sorry....couldn't resist. steviej

I like the RDS, cause now I know who sings the songs I'm listening to. NSYNC, Backstreet Boys, 98 degrees, etc all sound the same to me. :P Alan, the bagel and coffee.......that's actually what I get too. <_< steviej

you may get more help if you provide us with the year of you ES as both parking/fog/and headlight bulb replacements differ for the each generation of the ES. also, when in doubt, use the search function, as there have been numerous threads explaining how to replace particular bulbs. Some threads even have pictures. steviej

sorry, Alan, I meant to say cast iron blocks and aluminum heads. I had spark plugs on the brain. In reference to spark plugs, I have only seen steel ones too. The gaskets, however, are occasionally aluminun. My father was telling me about some trucks that he has worked on where they went to take out the plugs (which had never been changed), applied the proper wrench/socket and the plug inerds and shank all came out but the threads stayed in the head. This was about the advent of anit-seize. steviej

I have heard of this with cast iron blocks and aluminum threaded plugs. I have also heard of this (I did it) when trying to take out a spark plug without using a spark plug socket (just used a regular socket) and it wasn't on straight. it is a nightmare to get the old plug out, but is doable. The hard part is keeping debris and metal fragments from dropping into the cylinder when the damaged spark plug is finally removed. steviej

I just tell them I am steviej, LOC ES/IS Forum Moderator Extroidenaire, and I get the pick of the litter for loaners. steviej

mutilple sensors can be the cause for a lit CEL. when the light is on, go to Autozone and have them read all codes in memory. Then post them, we can tell you what each code means. This will help you find out which sensors may have been damaged. Just reseting the CEL may not solve you problem. Treat the cause not the symptom. steviej

it would be cheaper to sell the car and buy one with the navi preinstalled. Installing a non-stock stock navi system would be a major undertaking involving mutlitple car systems. However, anything is possible, depending on how much money you are willing to part with. steviej

agreed, it is working fine. When that is displayed, it is showing you the exact mpg you are getting at that instant. I got mine to go as high as 99 mpg once...now that's really dreaming. I never leave it on this display. I always leave mine on the miles to empty (atually miles to 2 gallons) display. steviej

Alan, would you like it in the Audio/Video/Electronics Forum or the General Discussion Forum? steviej

I concour. Same experience with me. I find the trip meter to be very accurate. I have also noted that when I go from full to light on, that usually means I have about 3 gallons left in the tank. steviej

stating the year of the ES or of the Camry motor may be helpful. The 1MZ-FE did get some changes in the ES that the Camry didn't carry. (VVT-i for the ES in 1999 for example). steviej

since it is so new, check CA laws and see what you are entitled to. It varies in each state. steviej

I was going to pipe in about the TSB that is out there for the 02 and up ES's about the door insulation noise. The insultaion moves around and a noise is produced kind of like rubbing two pieces of styrofoam together. There is a fix for that noise. However, when you said the car doesn't have to be moving....that through me. So you are saying that you hear the noise even if the car is not in motion OR that the noise is apparent even if the car is not moving? does the car have to be "on" to hear the noise. Can you hear it if the engine is off? List latter part is making me think of a loose seat bolt (one member reported this). good luck pinpointing the noise. steviej

whatever you choose to do, promise us you will NOT install the neon nozzles!! :D <_< steviej

If it is under extended warranty, then why don't you do get a second opinion from the dealer. They are carrying the warranty, correct? Have them check to see that your engine isn't sludged. steviej

also goes by the name Tornado. It supposedly creates a vortex of air flow. It only works if the throttle were at wide open and the engine were at max RPM all the time........now who really drives like this? waste of money, pure and simple. steviej

Interestingly enough, on my plane flight back from MN today, I was reading the latest issue of Car & Driver or Road & Track or Motor Trend (I really forget which actual mag it was). There was a short write up on the 2004 TL, one of those long term look backs, and they stated the 2004 TL was acutaully redesigned and re-engineered by Acura to compete with the IS, not the ES. steviej

when in doubt, always get a second opinion. Go somewhere where they will not charge you for the diagnostic. As stated previously, if you don't have any vibration when applying the brakes at any speed or pressure, then I would say you are pretty much set. steviej

I will leave this to sk to explain completely. but, as much as I have read and as far as I know, it is a thorough mechanized cleaning of the top part of the engine (air intake, fuel injectors, fuel rail, throttle body, combustion chambers, etc) From what i have read, they are not that expensive either....maybe a c-note. steviej

I guess the best way would be to pull the front valve cover and it will be pretty evident if it is sludging. steviej

www.irontoad.com www.lexus-parts.com JPI Importz (LOC club sponsor....click on the associated link)

:P pppplllllllhhhhhttttt!!!!! steviej

the rough idle on start up can simply be a dirty idale air control valve and or dirty throttle body. cleaning of these items by yourself is easily done if mechanically inclined. O2 sensors (fuel/air) do get lazy and even crap out. They are expensive but can be had for less money than physically at the dealerships parts counter. They can also be put in in a matter of minutes (but the dealer will get you with a minimum of 1 hours labor). Did they tell you which one was in need of replacement. Bank 1 Sensor 1, Bank 2 Sensor 1, etc. (your have three). If replacement is necessary, the sensors can be obtained from online Lexus parts dealers for less and can be installed in your driveway if you are mechanically inclined. Running with a bad sensor will only accelerate catilytic converter decay and that is very costly to replace. Before you replace the sensor, and sk will back me up on this one, seek out a reputable repair shot that can do a "motor vac". This may solve alot of your problems. As for the oil loss. Are you leaking oil or burning oil? In other words, got spots in the garage/driveway or do you have blue smoke coming out you tail pipe? Check around the the valve covers and other seals in the engine. Do they look "wet" and oily? Lastly, and I have to bring it up, if your engine is starting to sludge, then you may be eligible for an engine replacement under Toyota's sludge warranty if you qualify. steviej

I censored the post simple because even in the land of free speech, one man's freedoms end where the next man's freedoms begin. Yes, we live in a country of free speech, but that does not release a member from the forum guideline of having to be be polite to another member. Also, your "rant" was in no way a rant. It was highly educational, informative and extremely well worded. Thank you for the lesson. I especially liked the part about vTech vs VTEC. I was to ask that question myself but figured I would let it go. I spend to much time trying to figure out what could each members screen name possibly mean. ******************************************************************** jweiss.......thank you, too. your comment about the lack of room for the right leg was right on the money. It jogged my memory as to another major reason I did not purchase the 03 TL-S. Awesome post LOC members; educational and mature. steviej